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Deckards Dream General Build Thread
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Music Tech DIY  
Author Deckards Dream General Build Thread
needspeed
This community has helped me so much, so I will do my best to give back, but in the end we are all in this together. I have not done this before, so please bare with me and any help is always appreciated as I know I will make mistakes ......Steve

Since this build began, almost all of the activity has been over on Facebook group Deckard's Dream Build Group. I am not sure why/how it happened but it did. If you want to join, just mention Muffs in the do you have friends in the group question.

Roman announced a second run of DIY kits will be produced as Rev2.1 boards. No information as to what has changed except for the voice cards will be less deep and fewer V2164s will be required

Rev1.2.5 Firmware and Bootloader Rev2.0 has been released as well as a pictorial build guide - All firmware and technical documentation can be found here: Downloads


Roman has release schematics!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Per Roman: Firmware is online. Some of prebuilt units had a power sequencing problem (10bit DACs did not initiate sometimes), I'll update the BOM with 2 capacitor changes on the PSU board. BOM not officially updated but changes are noted below in the Minor changes/bugfixes/improvements section

Per Roman: Do not use Mac to format drive on DDRM as it looks like Mac adds some invisible files in a folder, that conflict with the firmware. Please Format and load with PC[/b]

1/6/2017 - BOM updated to REV1.1 - See link below

See here for header polarizing key to prevent incorrect PSU and Voice card insertion. - very critical

Per Roman you can bridge them as follows:


News on Panels and case from Andrew is that all the remaining Panels and Cases have been shipped in mid-late April 2018.

Update Log:
Created 10/4/2017
Updated 10/5/2017 - Shopping Cart Section
Updated 10/8/2017 - Added link to DDRM Wiki provided by ledman(Thank You)
Updated 10/11/2017 - BOM updated to REV1.0.6
Updated 10/12/2017 - REV1.0.6 CHANGED 1N5817 TO BAT85S - See below
Updated 10/19/2017 - BOM updated to REV1.0.7 - See below
Updated 10/20/2017 - Voice Card - R40, R45, R151 and R146 not on BOM
Updated 10/29/2017 - Roman has published the DDRM bootloader. Firmware to follow which is scheduled for Tuesday 10/31/2017 - Date missed waiting on new date
11/2/2017 - SynthCube has slider caps for sale - see below
11/5/2017 - Reggie Barns posted an updated Mouser cart - see below
11/6/2017 - Headers must be keyed with polarizing key to prevent incorrect PSU and voice card insertion
11/10/2017 - Firmware is available - see link below
11/11/2017 - BOM Update - see below as Official BOM has not been published yet
11/23/2017 - Do not use Mac to format and load firmware onto the DDRM
12/4/2017 - Roman has update the BOM to REV1.0.8
12/8/2017 - Roman has published schematics see link below
1/8/2017 - Roman has update the BOM to REV1.1
4/1/2018 - New production firmware has been released - see below
6/20/2018 - Firmware updated to 1.2.5 - see below

This BUILD thread is only for the Deckards Dream V1. PCB Board details to follow once received.

General DDRM discussion thread:
Initial Build Discussion - https://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=2656598#2656598

Major changes:


Minor changes/bugfixes/improvements:
Roman is now recommending using TL06x chips in place of TL7x on the voice cards to eliminate need for fan and provide a notable decrease in power consumption

CRITICAL BOM UPDATE!!!!!!!!!!!!
BOM REV1.0.8 has been published including the below changes.
PSU Board Changes per Roman:
C12 should be 1uf, c13 - 330uf 6.3V or higher 8MM DIA /3.5 LS
C13 increased delays the boot of +3.3v digital rail, c12 reduced makes 5v analog rail boot faster, so, DACs start with no problem
Without change sometimes they don’t start, since digital 3.3v comes to sac before 5v. It happened on 1/5 of built units
These should be OK - double check my work though:
330uF
1uF

Per ultravox - REV1.0.6 CHANGED 1N5817 TO BAT85S ON THE MOTHERBOARD
Per Roman: Pcb footprint too small, I forgot to change, new part easier to install. They work same

Voice Card - R40, R45, R151 and R146 are not represented on Roman's BOM
All is fine per Roman as follows: these are not installed, i left them for possibility of a filter adjustment. which won't be required after the final EG tweak i made couple weeks ago. Me: So leave empty no jumper. Roman: yes, we have decided to keep them on a pcb just in case, but they dont need to be populated

Known bugs/issues: (This is also a backup to this Muffs site for all documentation)
DDRM Wiki

Knownissues:
Reported by jimfowler: Rev. 1.0 Motherboard - Looks like C188 shows up twice and C186 is omitted. They are both 4.7uF Roman posted clear image below to clarify




Schematics:
DDRM Schematics


BOM
Click here -> BOM R1.1 See UPDATE LOG at the bottom of the spreadsheet
REV1.1.0 CORRECTED THE AMOUNT OF DIP16 SOCKETS
REV1.0.9 TL074 CHANGED TO TL064, TL072 CHANGED TO TL062. HEAT SINK, THERMAL PAD, COOLING FAN AND MOUNTING HARDWARE ARE OPTIONAL IF TL06X OPAMPS ARE USED. VOLUME KNOB AND SLIDER CAPS PART# CHANGED.
REV1.0.8 CHANGED C12 TO 1uF, C13 TO 330uF ON THE PSU BOARD
REV1.0.7 CHANGED R2 ON THE OUTPUT BOARD TO 22R, CHANGED C6 ON THE MOTHERBOARD TO 10uF - CRITICAL CHANGE[/b]
REV1.0.6 CHANGED 1N5817 TO BAT85S ON THE MOTHERBOARD
REV1.0.5 ADDED USB A TO USB B ADAPTER
REV1.0.4 CORRECTED 30K MOUSER PART # IN A VOICE CARD
REV1.0.3 CHANGED HEAT SINK QUANTITY, C2 ON OUTPUT BOARD IS 100uF NOW
REV1.0.2: ADDED ST LINK PROGRAMMER

PCBs
http://www.deckardsdream.com/shop

Firmware
You will need to purchase/borrow a programmer as follows: ST-LINK

Build Info and Firmware

Per Roman: Do not use Mac to format drive on DDRM as it looks like Mac adds some invisible files in a folder, that conflict with the firmware. Please Format and load with PC

Latest Bootloader is: DD-BOOTLOADER-REV2.0.hex
Latest Firmware is: DD-FIRMWARE-REV1.2.5.bin
All firmware and technical documentation can be found here: Downloads

On initial setup, you will need to also download DD-FIRMWARE-REV1.0.zip to get the latest factory patch bank as it is not bundled with the latest firmware REV1.2.5


Shopping Cart Links - Contributed by the community

Posted by Reggie Barns: Here's the Mouser cart for BOM 1.0.7 that I've been updating since 1.0.2. It only contains Mouser parts per the latest BOM and not the parts from eBay, Synthcube, Thonk, etc. https://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=9ba2 7b85b3

Posted by ultravox - not official or complete: https://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=9ba2 7b85b3

SynthCube has full and partial parts kits - http://synthcube.com/cart/ddrm-deckard-s-dream-kit?search=ddrm&descrip tion=true

Thonk has carried some of the rare chips
Some folks have been working on a Mouser Cart, so look forward to further contribution from this group
Farnel I do not know of

Synthcube added slider caps for those that need them http://synthcube.com/cart/ddrm-slider-pot-caps-set

Case and Panel
Case and Panel - Cases have been shipped and more are available
Wooden Case: Ross Lammond (UK) http://www.lamonddesign.co.uk/index/
Ross Lammond is building the cases for Roman for all the pre-built units

Official Build Guide
Build Guide


issues/frequently/ questions/answers:


As we learn more about the upcoming expander I will update here:

_________________
################################
DDRM Support Page - LED-man has set us up his Wiki. See above for DDRM Wiki

DDRM Onlineshop:
Deckard Dream

Words of Wisdom:
From oldcrow
I have of course built the one I used to test and adjust filter behavior. There is nothing particularly hard to do in a production DIY DD build since the fine-pitch SMT parts are already installed, it is just a lot of parts overall and will take a while. I did have to solder all of the DACs and STM32 CPU but even then it was not terribly difficult--one just needs a 0.5mm tip soldering iron and a flux pen.

Building the panel/slider board can get a little greasy as the slider lubricant seems to easily transfer to the board during handling, but q-tips and 90% IPA keep that under control.

One thing to pay careful attention to is chip orientation as a number of parts install in various directions. Use sockets for V2164s and CEM3340s.


More later,
Crow
/**/
synthcube
excellent, thank you for organizing this!
Jruss993
This is awesome Steve. Thanks for taking this on. I am so excited for this project!
oldcrow
I have of course built the one I used to test and adjust filter behavior. There is nothing particularly hard to do in a production DIY DD build since the fine-pitch SMT parts are already installed, it is just a lot of parts overall and will take a while. I did have to solder all of the DACs and STM32 CPU but even then it was not terribly difficult--one just needs a 0.5mm tip soldering iron and a flux pen.

Building the panel/slider board can get a little greasy as the slider lubricant seems to easily transfer to the board during handling, but q-tips and 90% IPA keep that under control.

One thing to pay careful attention to is chip orientation as a number of parts install in various directions. Use sockets for V2164s and CEM3340s.


More later,
Crow
/**/
livewire
Thanks for taking this on!
Nice to see that there will be a first post with all the major links right there.
Another great idea is the alternative documentation repository site.
Will there be a mirrored site for DD in case Muffs goes down?
I would hate to not be able to get my DD build thread fix.....daily! cry
needspeed
livewire wrote:
Thanks for taking this on!
Nice to see that there will be a first post with all the major links right there.
Another great idea is the alternative documentation repository site.
Will there be a mirrored site for DD in case Muffs goes down?
I would hate to not be able to get my DD build thread fix.....daily! cry


You bring up a great point on mirroring, let me think on it as I agree it is important. Agree that life without Muffs seems empty....Steve
ultravox
Hi needspeed, nice work getting the build thread started. thumbs up
secrethero303
Thank you for setting this up, Steve. Looking forward to this build. Mr. Green
needspeed
I am getting the remaining parts from SynthCube tomorrow and will post pics. I also will cross reference to Romans latest BOM. For those sourcing you own it will be interesting to know what substitutions you may find for out of stock items......Steve
sixbyseven
Hi All, in an effort to keep a central repository of all the documents, FAQs and build information, there is a wiki started at https://www.dsl-man.de/display/DDRM/DDRM+1.0+Build+Doc+Home

That way folks can pose other this here, and if they need the docs, BOM, Schematic etc they can find it in one tidy place.

I will post material from Roman or Black Corp as soon as they send it to me, or if you folks want something important for the build added, it can go there as well.

I also linked some sites like this one.
nanners
ultravox
I made a Mouser cart for BOM Rev1.0.3. I didn't substitute any of the backordered items, I'll just wait for them to arrive. https://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=9ba2 7b85b3

The cart doesn't include items that the BOM says are sourced from eBay, Small Bear, synthcube, etc.

There are 668 ceramic SMT caps in the BOM. I'm guessing these are preinstalled but it doesn't say so in the BOM, so I ordered them. If they turn out to be preinstalled then its no big loss due to the low cost.
synthcube
ultravox wrote:


There are 668 ceramic SMT caps in the BOM. I'm guessing these are preinstalled but it doesn't say so in the BOM, so I ordered them. If they turn out to be preinstalled then its no big loss due to the low cost.


we've included those in the kits as well, having assumed they are not installed per the BOM
needspeed
synthcube wrote:
ultravox wrote:


There are 668 ceramic SMT caps in the BOM. I'm guessing these are preinstalled but it doesn't say so in the BOM, so I ordered them. If they turn out to be preinstalled then its no big loss due to the low cost.


we've included those in the kits as well, having assumed they are not installed per the BOM



Per Roman we get the supreme joy of affixing them as part of the build. So get ready for some SMD soldering....... Steve
needspeed
sixbyseven wrote:
Hi All, in an effort to keep a central repository of all the documents, FAQs and build information, there is a wiki started at https://www.dsl-man.de/display/DDRM/DDRM+1.0+Build+Doc+Home

That way folks can pose other this here, and if they need the docs, BOM, Schematic etc they can find it in one tidy place.

I will post material from Roman or Black Corp as soon as they send it to me, or if you folks want something important for the build added, it can go there as well.

I also linked some sites like this one.
nanners


Awesome and thank you........ Steve
ratsnake
you guys are gonna climb the mountain. o7
cupwise
ultravox wrote:
I made a Mouser cart for BOM Rev1.0.3. I didn't substitute any of the backordered items, I'll just wait for them to arrive. https://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=9ba2 7b85b3

The cart doesn't include items that the BOM says are sourced from eBay, Small Bear, synthcube, etc.

There are 668 ceramic SMT caps in the BOM. I'm guessing these are preinstalled but it doesn't say so in the BOM, so I ordered them. If they turn out to be preinstalled then its no big loss due to the low cost.

AWESOME!
needspeed
cupwise wrote:
ultravox wrote:
I made a Mouser cart for BOM Rev1.0.3. I didn't substitute any of the backordered items, I'll just wait for them to arrive. https://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=9ba2 7b85b3

The cart doesn't include items that the BOM says are sourced from eBay, Small Bear, synthcube, etc.

There are 668 ceramic SMT caps in the BOM. I'm guessing these are preinstalled but it doesn't say so in the BOM, so I ordered them. If they turn out to be preinstalled then its no big loss due to the low cost.

AWESOME!


Just check the latest BOM which is 1.0.5 Roman has a change log at the bottom and not much has changed.......Steve
sixbyseven
ultravox wrote:
I made a Mouser cart for BOM Rev1.0.3. I didn't substitute any of the backordered items, I'll just wait for them to arrive. https://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=9ba2 7b85b3

The cart doesn't include items that the BOM says are sourced from eBay, Small Bear, synthcube, etc......


Do you mind if I link to it on the DDRM wiki?
sixbyseven
[quote=...Words of Wisdom:
From oldcrow
I have of course built the one I used to test and adjust filter behavior. There is nothing particularly hard to do in a production DIY DD build since the fine-pitch SMT parts are already installed, it is just a lot of parts overall and will take a while. I did have to solder all of the DACs and STM32 CPU but even then it was not terribly difficult--one just needs a 0.5mm tip soldering iron and a flux pen.

Building the panel/slider board can get a little greasy as the slider lubricant seems to easily transfer to the board during handling, but q-tips and 90% IPA keep that under control.

One thing to pay careful attention to is chip orientation as a number of parts install in various directions. Use sockets for V2164s and CEM3340s.


More later,
Crow
/**/[/quote]

Haha, I just did a STM32F407 64 pin... the hardest fricken hand soldering thing I ever did. The secret, lightly pre tin the pads.. and use some sort of magnifier cam thingy. I might invest in a higher end model though.... because I still had a short between a IC pin and the carrier pins... You won't need to do this for the DDRM, but if you ever get a chance, the pins are easily bent. I tried the slide-solder method... disaster and destroyed a processor and a carrier. I lightly tinned the pads, aligned the processor with super thin pins and then touched each pad, one-by-one until it was down. When building the DDRM synth... I would consider protecting all of the fine lead SMT devices with some tape and a thin sheet of foam. Then work carefully around them. You would not want to drop any solder near them.
oldcrow
The essential item for any SMT soldering is a flux pen. It is ten times easier soldering using one vs. without one. I use the water soluable flux pen model, Kester 2331-ZX such as http://www.techni-tool.com/488CH450

Even for the 688 pieces of 0805-size 100nF ceramic bypass capacitor it will help. Be sure to invest in an 0.5~0.7mm soldering iron tip set for your model, though 1mm tips are fine for 0805.

DD builders will not need to worry about soldering the fine-pitch parts, but in situations where I have to do this I always start with the most difficult component as nothing kills your day after spending 7 hours on a board build only to discover the CPU you soldered in last is rotated 90 degrees from the correct position. very frustrating very frustrating Dead Banana I did not do that to the DD, but I have done that elsewhere. This is why I have a hot-air rework station SlayerBadger!

Crow
/**/

sixbyseven wrote:


Haha, I just did a STM32F407 64 pin... the hardest fricken hand soldering thing I ever did. The secret, lightly pre tin the pads.. and use some sort of magnifier cam thingy. I might invest in a higher end model though.... because I still had a short between a IC pin and the carrier pins... You won't need to do this for the DDRM, but if you ever get a chance, the pins are easily bent. I tried the slide-solder method... disaster and destroyed a processor and a carrier. I lightly tinned the pads, aligned the processor with super thin pins and then touched each pad, one-by-one until it was down. When building the DDRM synth... I would consider protecting all of the fine lead SMT devices with some tape and a thin sheet of foam. Then work carefully around them. You would not want to drop any solder near them.
Heavy Metal Kid
Good luck everyone!
ultravox
sixbyseven wrote:
ultravox wrote:
I made a Mouser cart for BOM Rev1.0.3. I didn't substitute any of the backordered items, I'll just wait for them to arrive. https://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=9ba2 7b85b3

The cart doesn't include items that the BOM says are sourced from eBay, Small Bear, synthcube, etc......


Do you mind if I link to it on the DDRM wiki?


Sure, share the link! I just updated it to Rev1.0.5.

https://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=9ba2 7b85b3
fuzzbass
ultravox wrote:
There are 668 ceramic SMT caps in the BOM. I'm guessing these are preinstalled but it doesn't say so in the BOM, so I ordered them. If they turn out to be preinstalled then its no big loss due to the low cost.


Get ready for some sm soldering, sir. These are not among the "pre-installed" parts on the most recent BOM. I really wish Roman had baked these on - I would have gladly paid for it. But I'm committed now I guess.

If anyone has a reflow oven, I will pay to have the voice cards cooked. I am really not looking forward to 1300+ hot air joints.

edit: He is selling completed synths. Why wouldn't he have these placed during fabrication? I have asked him for clarification on FB.
needspeed
fuzzbass wrote:
ultravox wrote:
There are 668 ceramic SMT caps in the BOM. I'm guessing these are preinstalled but it doesn't say so in the BOM, so I ordered them. If they turn out to be preinstalled then its no big loss due to the low cost.


Get ready for some sm soldering, sir. These are not among the "pre-installed" parts on the most recent BOM. I really wish Roman had baked these on - I would have gladly paid for it. But I'm committed now I guess.

If anyone has a reflow oven, I will pay to have the voice cards cooked. I am really not looking forward to 1300+ hot air joints.


I understand Tony it will be tedious. I have no experience with reflow but would love to hear from someone who does, as these are double sided boards that already have SMDs affixed, so I wonder how you add components without disturbing the ones already there......Steve
fuzzbass
needspeed wrote:
I understand Tony it will be tedious. I have no experience with reflow but would love to hear from someone who does, as these are double sided boards that already have SMDs affixed, so I wonder how you add components without disturbing the ones already there......Steve


Per BOM, pre-installed parts are on main board along with 102 of these caps. The rest (566) are on boards with no pre-installed parts. If someone has access to a laser cutter to make solder masks, and a reflow oven, that should make quick work of this. (that is assuming they are all on one side of the board - I guess we don't know that yet)

Meanwhile, I asked Roman is this is just a BOM oversight. If all of these need to be manually installed, his production cost for completed units is going to balloon.
needspeed
fuzzbass wrote:
needspeed wrote:
I understand Tony it will be tedious. I have no experience with reflow but would love to hear from someone who does, as these are double sided boards that already have SMDs affixed, so I wonder how you add components without disturbing the ones already there......Steve


Per BOM, pre-installed parts are on main board along with 102 of these caps. The rest (566) are on boards with no pre-installed parts. If someone has access to a laser cutter to make solder masks, and a reflow oven, that should make quick work of this.

Meanwhile, I asked Roman is this is just a BOM oversight. If all of these need to be manually installed, his production cost for completed units is going to balloon.


Tony I asked Roman this direct same question and his response was that if it does not say pre-installed, then you need to order it and install it. He was very clear on the need to install the SMD caps in the build. I am looking for his actual response right now.......Steve

From Roman Filippov via FB: All populated parts are indicated in a bom, you only need to solder smt 0.1uf capacitors and one soic8 chip on a output board, it's easy job for anyone
Like
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Steve Sommers
Steve Sommers Cool and thanks I must have missed that in my excitement!!!!!
Like
· Reply · September 20 at 8:46am
ultravox
needspeed wrote:

From Roman Filippov via FB: All populated parts are indicated in a bom, you only need to solder smt 0.1uf capacitors and one soic8 chip on a output board, it's easy job for anyone


This could be troublesome for some newcomers. That's an enormous amount of smd for anyone (including veterans)... especially without proper tooling.

I'm researching now how to convert my old toaster oven to perform reflow.
needspeed
ultravox wrote:
needspeed wrote:

From Roman Filippov via FB: All populated parts are indicated in a bom, you only need to solder smt 0.1uf capacitors and one soic8 chip on a output board, it's easy job for anyone


This could be troublesome for some newcomers. That's an enormous amount of smd for anyone (including veterans)... especially without proper tooling.

I'm researching now how to convert my old toaster oven to perform reflow.


I agree, but due to the size of the project, it will be a fine challenge for many even with experience. This will be one hell of a DIY for someone who has done little to no DIY in the past......Steve
ultravox
needspeed wrote:

I agree, but due to the size of the project, it will be a fine challenge for many even with experience. This will be one hell of a DIY for someone who has done little to no DIY in the past......Steve


Agreed! thumbs up
synthcube
on the plus side, any DIYer who does successfully install that many SMT caps will certainly qualify as an 'SDIY SMT Guru' we're not worthy

from our view, the question will be how many thru-hole SDIY people might actually decide they prefer SMT once they're used to it?
fuzzbass
Well if we lack smt soldering chops now, we won't afterward. To be honest, if I had the choice between 668 smt or through hole caps, I'd take the smt.
needspeed
fuzzbass wrote:
Well if we lack smt soldering chops now, we won't afterward. To be honest, if I had the choice between 668 smt or through hole caps, I'd take the smt.


Once you get the hang of SMT its not bad at all, but it takes a bit of practice. I am glad I have built 3 O&Cs I really EFFED up the first one, but I figured it out and they have over 70 SMT parts to solder.......Steve
sixbyseven
fuzzbass wrote:
Well if we lack smt soldering chops now, we won't afterward. To be honest, if I had the choice between 668 smt or through hole caps, I'd take the smt.




Ya.... they don't call me "Tombstone Todd" for nothing.....

thumbs up
ultravox
We should all receive SMD merit badges when we're done!

fuzzbass
ultravox wrote:
We should all receive SMD merit badges when we're done!



If you can do 0201 and D4 you can build your own android phone.
ultravox
fuzzbass wrote:
ultravox wrote:
We should all receive SMD merit badges when we're done!



If you can do 0201 and D4 you can build your own android phone.


Haha, it takes a droid to build a droid, or Anakin Skywalker - LOL! Mr. Green
Jdemary
The Deckards Dream website needs to be updated. In the FAQ section of the website, it states “The kit ships with all SMD parts preinstalled and only requires through-hole soldering, meaning even beginners should be able to build this project.”
needspeed
Jdemary wrote:
The Deckards Dream website needs to be updated. In the FAQ section of the website, it states “The kit ships with all SMD parts preinstalled and only requires through-hole soldering, meaning even beginners should be able to build this project.”


I agree and will contact Roman to see if they have time to update the website......Steve
pschilling
Jdemary wrote:
The Deckards Dream website needs to be updated. In the FAQ section of the website, it states “The kit ships with all SMD parts preinstalled and only requires through-hole soldering, meaning even beginners should be able to build this project.”


Yes why the change from "only requires through-hole soldering" to "requires soldering 600 SMDs"? How did that come about?

eek! help
LED-man
A Very good question!
That’s not funny to solder more than 600 SMT caps.
jimfowler
Before I built my O&C and crOwBX I bought a handful of SMD practice boards on eBay for next to nothing. The quality of the boards is somewhere between terrible and quasi-acceptable but they do the trick in terms of getting your feet wet re: SMD and practicing your technique. Now I fear not the surface mount component.
needspeed
SynthCube delivered today with very few back-ordered parts so just for poops and grins take a look at Deckards Dream's guts!!!!!!!

It is going to take a long time to inventory this eek!




oberling
pschilling wrote:
Jdemary wrote:
The Deckards Dream website needs to be updated. In the FAQ section of the website, it states “The kit ships with all SMD parts preinstalled and only requires through-hole soldering, meaning even beginners should be able to build this project.”


Yes why the change from "only requires through-hole soldering" to "requires soldering 600 SMDs"? How did that come about?

eek! help

I remember having read the text under the DIY kit I ordered. And it clearly stated at that time already that the bypass capacitors would be SMT 0805 (a reasonable choice and size for DIY soldering in my opinion). The amount wasn't clear there though. But already the preliminary BOM contained well over 600 SMT capacitors... So while I get that this might be astonishing to some when reading only this particular entry in the FAQ we have to see that the question right under it already steps down to only the SMT chips that are presoldered...

It's a large project and if each and every chip has two bypass capacitors (one for each power rail) and there are around 25 chips per voice card alone (as seen on the voice cards on the instagram account)... this adds up quickly...
KlangGenerator
0805 soldering

Looks pretty straight forward...
needspeed
oberling wrote:
pschilling wrote:
Jdemary wrote:
The Deckards Dream website needs to be updated. In the FAQ section of the website, it states “The kit ships with all SMD parts preinstalled and only requires through-hole soldering, meaning even beginners should be able to build this project.”


Yes why the change from "only requires through-hole soldering" to "requires soldering 600 SMDs"? How did that come about?

eek! help

I remember having read the text under the DIY kit I ordered. And it clearly stated at that time already that the bypass capacitors would be SMT 0805 (a reasonable choice and size for DIY soldering in my opinion). The amount wasn't clear there though. But already the preliminary BOM contained well over 600 SMT capacitors... So while I get that this might be astonishing to some when reading only this particular entry in the FAQ we have to see that the question right under it already steps down to only the SMT chips that are presoldered...

It's a large project and if each and every chip has two bypass capacitors (one for each power rail) and there are around 25 chips per voice card alone (as seen on the voice cards on the instagram account)... this adds up quickly...


The confusion comes from reading the FAQ section which clearly states all through hole components, so the site is not consistent. Therefore the angst being expressed by some folks which is understandable......Steve
ArguZ
LED-man wrote:
A Very good question!
That’s not funny to solder more than 600 SMT caps.


Actually i would love to build a 100% SMD kit.
Much rather than solder 600 through hole caps.
LED-man
after a short review (2hours) of the Mouser BOM:

there´re a many positions with a pricebreak by ordering the next pricebreak like 100x 1nF c0g capacitors intead of 46 of them.
fuzzbass
needspeed wrote:
SynthCube delivered today with very few back-ordered parts so just for poops and grins take a look at Deckards Dream's guts!!!!!!!

It is going to take a long time to inventory this eek!



I think I speak for all when I say thank you for not doing an unboxing video.
needspeed
fuzzbass wrote:
needspeed wrote:
SynthCube delivered today with very few back-ordered parts so just for poops and grins take a look at Deckards Dream's guts!!!!!!!

It is going to take a long time to inventory this eek!



I think I speak for all when I say thank you for not doing an unboxing video.


Very Funny Tony!!!!!!!!
tobb
needspeed wrote:

It is going to take a long time to inventory this eek!


needspeed? wink
needspeed
tobb wrote:
needspeed wrote:

It is going to take a long time to inventory this eek!


needspeed? wink


If you are asking have I done it yet, then no.

I may start later today as I am hoping Roman starts to ship next week and I ordered within a couple of hours of the pay balance was announced........Steve
synthcube
SMT caps: repeat after me: 1...2...3...4...5...6...7...8...9....10..11...12...
(long interlude) ...687...688... whew! they're all there.

499ohm metal film resistors: repeat after me: 1...2...3...4...5...6...7...8...9...
(long interlude) ...222....223....224....whew! all there....

.. and so it continues for another, oh, 3,850 parts or so

smile
needspeed
synthcube wrote:
SMT caps: repeat after me: 1...2...3...4...5...6...7...8...9....10..11...12...
(long interlude) ...687...688... whew! they're all there.

499ohm metal film resistors: repeat after me: 1...2...3...4...5...6...7...8...9...
(long interlude) ...222....223....224....whew! all there....

.. and so it continues for another, oh, 3,850 parts or so

smile


Well now that I think about I bought all of my parts from you so I have no need to do an inventory as I know that you guys are the very best and could never be less than perfect. What a relief now that I just know it is all there........Steve
DvStcH
[/quote]

I agree, but due to the size of the project, it will be a fine challenge for many even with experience. This will be one hell of a DIY for someone who has done little to no DIY in the past......Steve[/quote]

^^^ This is basically me.

I've been building a year and although I've got a fair few thru hole projects under my belt (living vco was the most complicated so far and I still haven't finished the rr80 from old crow...) I'm fairly nervous about this whole project.
smd caps don't seem so bad... I can test them by making sure only one side bleeps to ground... what could go wrong (*AAAH!) MY ASS IS BLEEDING Dead Banana
synthcube
yes, by that two hundredth-or-so SMD cap, you'll be doing them in your sleep smile
fuzzbass
synthcube wrote:
yes, by that two hundredth-or-so SMD cap, you'll be doing them in your sleep smile


Does this mean I will be doing them without thinking, or seeing myself still doing them while I dream?

Also, Black and Decker stock rose today on rumors of high demand for toaster ovens.
needspeed
fuzzbass wrote:
synthcube wrote:
yes, by that two hundredth-or-so SMD cap, you'll be doing them in your sleep smile


Does this mean I will be doing them without thinking, or seeing myself still doing them while I dream?

Also, Black and Decker stock rose today on rumors of high demand for toaster ovens.


A project as magnificent as Deckards Dream deserves this $400 beauty, not a common B&D Tony!!!!!

needspeed
Roman confirmed on FB that kits will ship on the 10th which is actually today in Japan!!!!!!!

Shipping will be via Japan Post International priority with tracking.

Look forward to hearing about shipping notifications from anyone who sees one including me!!!!!........Steve
sduck
Japan post can be ridiculously fast sometimes. Not always, but sometimes. I've had things get here the day after I ordered them.
needspeed
sduck wrote:
Japan post can be ridiculously fast sometimes. Not always, but sometimes. I've had things get here the day after I ordered them.


Especially if you are in Japan!!!!! Thanks sduck, that is really good to hear so we will see within days!!!!! Mr. Green Mr. Green Mr. Green
needspeed
From Shaun Farley on FB concerning SynthCube BOM vs Roman's latest BOM:

These were the discrepancies of note that I found:
- 2 120K resistors for the main board
- Synthcube list mentions 2 44-pin edge connectors for the main board vs. 9 on the official BOM
- 304 30K resistors for the voice cards aren't on Synthcube BOM

I asked SynthCube the following: Shaun stated that you got back to him confirming his observations. When might you update the BOM on your website.....Thanks....Steve

---------------------------------------------------------------------- ---
I would expect that they will send these out as back-orders to those of us who already have received our parts kits from them or are already in transit.

SynthCube please confirm and thank you for your support...Steve
jimfowler
I have that toaster oven. Its nice. I'm fairly certain my wife would be less than pleased if I decided to repurpose it.
needspeed
jimfowler wrote:
I have that toaster oven. Its nice. I'm fairly certain my wife would be less than pleased if I decided to repurpose it.


Get Her the B&D!!!! as this one looks like a mighty fine base for a home brew re-flow oven Mr. Green ......Steve
synthcube
needspeed wrote:
From Shaun Farley on FB concerning SynthCube BOM vs Roman's latest BOM:

These were the discrepancies of note that I found:
- 2 120K resistors for the main board
- Synthcube list mentions 2 44-pin edge connectors for the main board vs. 9 on the official BOM
- 304 30K resistors for the voice cards aren't on Synthcube BOM

I asked SynthCube the following: Shaun stated that you got back to him confirming his observations. When might you update the BOM on your website.....Thanks....Steve

---------------------------------------------------------------------- ---
I would expect that they will send these out as back-orders to those of us who already have received our parts kits from them or are already in transit.

SynthCube please confirm and thank you for your support...Steve


Yes, we've revised the synthCUbe BOM and will be posting it later today. These additional parts will go out in the backorder parts shipments to those who have received kits, and will be included in the kits still being made.
needspeed
synthcube wrote:
needspeed wrote:
From Shaun Farley on FB concerning SynthCube BOM vs Roman's latest BOM:

These were the discrepancies of note that I found:
- 2 120K resistors for the main board
- Synthcube list mentions 2 44-pin edge connectors for the main board vs. 9 on the official BOM
- 304 30K resistors for the voice cards aren't on Synthcube BOM

I asked SynthCube the following: Shaun stated that you got back to him confirming his observations. When might you update the BOM on your website.....Thanks....Steve

---------------------------------------------------------------------- ---
I would expect that they will send these out as back-orders to those of us who already have received our parts kits from them or are already in transit.

SynthCube please confirm and thank you for your support...Steve


Yes, we've revised the synthCUbe BOM and will be posting it later today. These additional parts will go out in the backorder parts shipments to those who have received kits, and will be included in the kits still being made.


Awesome and thank you so much for your support and commitment to this epic project.....Steve
needspeed
Exciting news as Roman sent me a pic of my package with a shipping label affixed with my name and address. They are starting to go out so start heating up your soldering irons!!!!!!!!!!! Also don't forget magnification for all those lovely SMTs
ultravox
That's great news needspeed! I'll probably bake on the SMD caps and install the sockets before I head out of town. Then finish the build when I return in November.

Things may have changed since my ET days in the 90's but we used to find cracked SMD caps after machine soldering in our lab. They weren't easy to spot by eye but we would have problems with various circuits. This may not be an issue for us here but it's something to keep in mind since we'll be soldering 600+ of these little buggers.

For those on the fence about getting synthcube's parts kit or source everything yourself... I recommend getting the parts kit!! While you may save a little money sourcing on your own you'll have to deal with vendors all over the world trying to get everything this month that's backordered on Mouser. I sourced the parts myself and I think I'm a few years older from it...
you kids get off my lawn
needspeed
ultravox wrote:
That's great news needspeed! I'll probably bake on the SMD caps and install the sockets before I head out of town. Then finish the build when I return in November.

Things may have changed since my ET days in the 90's but we used to find cracked SMD caps after machine soldering in our lab. They weren't easy to spot by eye but we would have problems with various circuits. This may not be an issue for us here but it's something to keep in mind since we'll be soldering 600+ of these little buggers.

For those on the fence about getting synthcube's parts kit or source everything yourself... I recommend getting the parts kit!! While you may save a little money sourcing on your own you'll have to deal with vendors all over the world trying to get everything this month that's backordered on Mouser. I sourced the parts myself and I think a a few years older from it...
you kids get off my lawn


Wise words, indeed!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
sraiphin
needspeed wrote:
From Shaun Farley on FB concerning SynthCube BOM vs Roman's latest BOM:

These were the discrepancies of note that I found:
- 2 120K resistors for the main board
- Synthcube list mentions 2 44-pin edge connectors for the main board vs. 9 on the official BOM
- 304 30K resistors for the voice cards aren't on Synthcube BOM

I asked SynthCube the following: Shaun stated that you got back to him confirming his observations. When might you update the BOM on your website.....Thanks....Steve

---------------------------------------------------------------------- ---
I would expect that they will send these out as back-orders to those of us who already have received our parts kits from them or are already in transit.

SynthCube please confirm and thank you for your support...Steve

Yeah. It took me about two hours to go through the two BOMs with a fine toothed comb, but I'm glad I did. Definitely prefer to find these things out before I start inventorying when the stuff arrives. Big thanks to SynthCube for taking point on assembling these kits, and for the awesome customer support! You rock!
needspeed
sraiphin wrote:
needspeed wrote:
From Shaun Farley on FB concerning SynthCube BOM vs Roman's latest BOM:

These were the discrepancies of note that I found:
- 2 120K resistors for the main board
- Synthcube list mentions 2 44-pin edge connectors for the main board vs. 9 on the official BOM
- 304 30K resistors for the voice cards aren't on Synthcube BOM

I asked SynthCube the following: Shaun stated that you got back to him confirming his observations. When might you update the BOM on your website.....Thanks....Steve

---------------------------------------------------------------------- ---
I would expect that they will send these out as back-orders to those of us who already have received our parts kits from them or are already in transit.

SynthCube please confirm and thank you for your support...Steve

Yeah. It took me about two hours to go through the two BOMs with a fine toothed comb, but I'm glad I did. Definitely prefer to find these things out before I start inventorying when the stuff arrives. Big thanks to SynthCube for taking point on assembling these kits, and for the awesome customer support! You rock!


Big thanks to you for the effort for the benefit of the community it was no small task.....Thanks....Steve
sraiphin
I should probably also note that the comparison was with the latest official BOM ("1.05"); it's still possible more could change.

Another item omitted from the SynthCube BOM was the recently added USB A to USB B adapter, but I didn't see the point in mentioning that to them. I mean...really...who here doesn't have a spare USB cable laying around? wink
fuzzbass
ultravox wrote:
That's great news needspeed! I'll probably bake on the SMD caps and install the sockets before I head out of town. Then finish the build when I return in November.

Things may have changed since my ET days in the 90's but we used to find cracked SMD caps after machine soldering in our lab. They weren't easy to spot by eye but we would have problems with various circuits. This may not be an issue for us here but it's something to keep in mind since we'll be soldering 600+ of these little buggers.

For those on the fence about getting synthcube's parts kit or source everything yourself... I recommend getting the parts kit!! While you may save a little money sourcing on your own you'll have to deal with vendors all over the world trying to get everything this month that's backordered on Mouser. I sourced the parts myself and I think I'm a few years older from it...
you kids get off my lawn


My problem with that is that I already had about 1/3 of the parts on hand. Plus its against my general policy of doing things the hard way.

I have seen a Synthcube parts kit for TTSH. Very organized. I think it took them longer to pack that than it took me to build it. In the end I had a lifetime supply of tiny ziplock bags.

[added] Because of my own well documented fallibility, I always count and double count part quantities. My recollection about the SC TTSH kit was zero errors, which is remarkable considering how many parts were involved.
LED-man
I ordered from Mouser for 300€ , TME.eu 200€, eBay 70€
Plus the synthcube faderkit and IC kit.
but i spend 5 hours for all.
ultravox
I also got the fader kit and IC kit from synthcube which was a wise decision. I should have gotten the full parts kit but I was feeling adventurous. I'm finalizing delivery with a vender in China for the Dagnabbit EG2201B slide switches, so everything in total will be here before the end of the month.

I hate to admit it took me more than 5 hours... d'oh! Buying the full parts kit is definitely the best route.

I checked the BOM link this morning and it was updated: "REV1.0.6 CHANGED 1N5817 TO BAT85S ON THE MOTHERBOARD"
the bad producer
Hi, I've 2 DD's on their way and I've bought the ebay parts as specced (too lazy to look elsewhere and... cheap!).. So, I'll have a few spare:

M2 4MM BLACK PAN HEAD SCREW (lots spare)
M2.5 6MM BLACK PAN HEAD SCREW(lots spare)
M2 FF 5MM STANDOFF (4 sets spare)
M2.5 FF 25MM STANDOFF (3 sets spare)

If anyone in the UK/EU wants a set or anything let me know, they're not here yet, they may be a while Dead Banana
KlangGenerator
Just got a message that my kit has been shipped! SlayerBadger!
ultravox
KlangGenerator wrote:
Just got a message that my kit has been shipped! SlayerBadger!


Mine too! applause

Any word on shipping of the front panel and rack case from DIY Hub?
needspeed
ultravox wrote:
KlangGenerator wrote:
Just got a message that my kit has been shipped! SlayerBadger!


Mine too! applause

Any word on shipping of the front panel and rack case from DIY Hub?


Excellent question I will see what I can find out from DIY HUB......Steve
secrethero303
I just got my shipping notice this morning too! Mr. Green
Now I just need the case to be sent and I'm all set.
cupwise
oldcrow wrote:
The essential item for any SMT soldering is a flux pen. It is ten times easier soldering using one vs. without one. I use the water soluable flux pen model, Kester 2331-ZX such as http://www.techni-tool.com/488CH450


Crow
/**/



Thanks for the tip, but what kind of technique do you use? Do you dab the pads with flux then put a little solder on them, then place the part and melt the solder? or place the part first then somehow solder it. i've only tried SMT a few times and it didn't go perfectly. to me it seems like it'd be no big deal if i had 3 hands. or just some way of holding the part down while i solder it.

i've looked for videos on youtube but it seems kind of a crapshoot to find one i can trust..
needspeed
cupwise wrote:
oldcrow wrote:
The essential item for any SMT soldering is a flux pen. It is ten times easier soldering using one vs. without one. I use the water soluable flux pen model, Kester 2331-ZX such as http://www.techni-tool.com/488CH450


Crow
/**/



Thanks for the tip, but what kind of technique do you use? Do you dab the pads with flux then put a little solder on them, then place the part and melt the solder? or place the part first then somehow solder it. i've only tried SMT a few times and it didn't go perfectly. to me it seems like it'd be no big deal if i had 3 hands. or just some way of holding the part down while i solder it.

i've looked for videos on youtube but it seems kind of a crapshoot to find one i can trust..


I use flux pen on pads first. Then get a small bit of solder on the iron tip and then apply a little pit on each pad. Too much solder leaves a small mountain that the SMD will not sit on.

Place the SMD and heat the pad close to the SMD while pressing down with tweezers. Again too much solder and you could create a bridge underneath the SMD as the solder gets smoshed......Steve
cupwise
ok. and then you probably have to go back over them to apply a little more solder on both sides?

also i'm guessing so as not to get too much on the pads, the finer the solder, the better? i have a roll of .8mm, is that probably adequate?
needspeed
cupwise wrote:
ok. and then you probably have to go back over them to apply a little more solder on both sides?

also i'm guessing so as not to get too much on the pads, the finer the solder, the better? i have a roll of .8mm, is that probably adequate?


I use .635 as less is more. I rarely need to apply additional solder as the contact of the SMD and pad is small they will fuse together. I also test with my meter each joint by touching the top of the SMD case to the outer edge of the pad for continuity. As well as for shorts between the both sides of the SMD.....Steve
needspeed
needspeed wrote:
ultravox wrote:
KlangGenerator wrote:
Just got a message that my kit has been shipped! SlayerBadger!


Mine too! applause

Any word on shipping of the front panel and rack case from DIY Hub?


Excellent question I will see what I can find out from DIY HUB......Steve


From Andrew:
It looking like nov, trying to finalize the metal work right now.

-Andrew
ultravox
needspeed wrote:

From Andrew:
It looking like nov, trying to finalize the metal work right now.

-Andrew


Thanks for checking. At the very least we can get everything put together and tested before the coverings arrive.
Chrutil
Got my shipping notification today, which is very exciting!
But other than exciting, it is also a bit scary - there are so many surface mount caps that we weren't really expecting when we ordered this thing.
At the end of this journey we'll all be experts, but right now many of us aren't. Since I have done some surface mount before I thought I'd make a little video document on how I do it.

Soldering 0805 Caps for Deckard's Dream

Here's to a successful project!
C
keninverse
I use tacky flux through a fine tip with this kind of work if I'm hand soldering but no way I'm hand soldering 650 0805 ceramics. Some advice...pick up a relatively cheap hot air station for $50USD and some solder paste for $10. Then it's just a matter of squirting a little paste on the pads, placing parts then blowing air on it. Simple, quick and very easy.
Synesthesia
I would go solder past and hot air as well. you'll do that in no time.
Tristos
Per ultravox - REV1.0.6 CHANGED 1N5817 TO BAT85S ON THE MOTHERBOARD

Re this change, is it due to out of stock parts or should it be BAT85S now with mistake made earlier?
ultravox
Tristos wrote:
Per ultravox - REV1.0.6 CHANGED 1N5817 TO BAT85S ON THE MOTHERBOARD

Re this change, is it due to out of stock parts or should it be BAT85S now with mistake made earlier?


The reason for change wasn't listed but it might be related to circuit performance. Since there are no trimmers for calibration each component has to perform in perfect balance with the others. I quickly looked at the specs for the BAT85S and it's a little different than the 1N5817.

This was my guess...but I could be wrong about the change.
needspeed
ultravox wrote:
Tristos wrote:
Per ultravox - REV1.0.6 CHANGED 1N5817 TO BAT85S ON THE MOTHERBOARD

Re this change, is it due to out of stock parts or should it be BAT85S now with mistake made earlier?


The reason for change wasn't listed but it might be related to circuit performance. Since there are no trimmers for calibration each component has to perform in perfect balance with the others. I quickly looked at the specs for the BAT85S and it's a little different than the 1N5817.

This was my guess...but I could be wrong about the change.


Per Roman:
Pcb footprint too small, I forgot to change, new part easier to install
They work same
ultravox
needspeed wrote:
ultravox wrote:
Tristos wrote:
Per ultravox - REV1.0.6 CHANGED 1N5817 TO BAT85S ON THE MOTHERBOARD

Re this change, is it due to out of stock parts or should it be BAT85S now with mistake made earlier?


The reason for change wasn't listed but it might be related to circuit performance. Since there are no trimmers for calibration each component has to perform in perfect balance with the others. I quickly looked at the specs for the BAT85S and it's a little different than the 1N5817.

This was my guess...but I could be wrong about the change.


Per Roman:
Pcb footprint too small, I forgot to change, new part easier to install
They work same


Good deal!
fuzzbass
There is an issue with my mail notifications but Roman says my order shipped two days ago It's peanut butter jelly time!
satindas
ultravox wrote:
I quickly looked at the specs for the BAT85S and it's a little different than the 1N5817.


Including the footprint ... BAT85 = DO35
1N5817 = DO41
needspeed
fuzzbass wrote:
There is an issue with my mail notifications but Roman says my order shipped two days ago It's peanut butter jelly time!


Outstanding as we all need you to build yours first and quickly to ensure all the bugs are worked out screaming goo yo screaming goo yo screaming goo yo screaming goo yo
Jruss993
keninverse wrote:
I use tacky flux through a fine tip with this kind of work if I'm hand soldering but no way I'm hand soldering 650 0805 ceramics. Some advice...pick up a relatively cheap hot air station for $50USD and some solder paste for $10. Then it's just a matter of squirting a little paste on the pads, placing parts then blowing air on it. Simple, quick and very easy.


Are there any downsides to solder paste and hot air? It just seems like a no-brainer for a project this size, but I haven't heard it mentioned that often. It definitely seems like it could be messy if not done properly.
sduck
Just make sure you have a few extra caps handy as you're likely to blow away at least a few. At least I've heard that can happen - of course it never happens to me. Nope.
needspeed
sduck wrote:
Just make sure you have a few extra caps handy as you're likely to blow away at least a few. At least I've heard that can happen - of course it never happens to me. Nope.


As in blow them across the room???????
synthcube
sduck wrote:
Just make sure you have a few extra caps handy as you're likely to blow away at least a few. At least I've heard that can happen - of course it never happens to me. Nope.


FWIW our kits include extra SMT caps for exactly that reason, or the inevitable sneeze, or the tweezer slip, or the cat jumping on the bench and scattering them etc etc... imagine getting 688 SMT caps soldered and then realizing you're one short.. grrrrr...
needspeed
synthcube wrote:
sduck wrote:
Just make sure you have a few extra caps handy as you're likely to blow away at least a few. At least I've heard that can happen - of course it never happens to me. Nope.


FWIW our kits include extra SMT caps for exactly that reason, or the inevitable sneeze, or the tweezer slip, or the cat jumping on the bench and scattering them etc etc... imagine getting 688 SMT caps soldered and then realizing you're one short.. grrrrr...


Did you guys catch this change???

Per ultravox - REV1.0.6 CHANGED 1N5817 TO BAT85S ON THE MOTHERBOARD
synthcube
its related to the pad spacing, the diodes are slightly different sizes. Functionally the same.
tarandfeathers
needspeed wrote:
sduck wrote:
Just make sure you have a few extra caps handy as you're likely to blow away at least a few. At least I've heard that can happen - of course it never happens to me. Nope.


As in blow them across the room???????


Hot air is really for removal, not assembly, because it isn't easy to tightly control the temperature profile using hot air by hand. I had an issue using hot air to solder where the components were literally popping off the board, not blowing due to airflow (which was low, but high temperature). My hypothesis is that this was to do with humidity and moisture either in the paste or on the surface of the components turning to steam in an explosive fashion rather than gradually evaporating. I switched to the hotplate method, with a heavy tile between the hotplate and the circuit boards that provides a decent thermal mass so that fast changes in the hotplate temperature are absorbed and controlled. I've had great results with this for prototyping, so long as you only have SMT on one side if the board.
oldcrow
This diode is part of the negative rail voltage protection used on each 2164. If the 2164s are powered on the V+ pin with the V- rail missing/disconnected/unpowered a condition exists where a significant current flows into V+ which can damage the part. V+ internally tries to pull the free-floating V- up and if it gets above ~0.7v large currents start to flow as the voltage starts bypassing ordinarily reversed-biased junctions. The external diode clamps the V- to ground at a known lower forward voltage (~0.25v) to avoid this issue.

A 1N5187 or BAT85 work equally well, Roman simply changed the part to a smaller package to match up with the pads on the boards.

Crow
/**/


needspeed wrote:


Did you guys catch this change???

Per ultravox - REV1.0.6 CHANGED 1N5817 TO BAT85S ON THE MOTHERBOARD
needspeed
oldcrow wrote:
This diode is part of the negative rail voltage protection used on each 2164. If the 2164s are powered on the V+ pin with the V- rail missing/disconnected/unpowered a condition exists where a significant current flows into V+ which can damage the part. V+ internally tries to pull the free-floating V- up and if it gets above ~0.7v large currents start to flow as the voltage starts bypassing ordinarily reversed-biased junctions. The external diode clamps the V- to ground at a known lower forward voltage (~0.25v) to avoid this issue.

A 1N5187 or BAT85 work equally well, Roman simply changed the part to a smaller package to match up with the pads on the boards.

Crow
/**/


needspeed wrote:


Did you guys catch this change???

Per ultravox - REV1.0.6 CHANGED 1N5817 TO BAT85S ON THE MOTHERBOARD


Thank you very much for your knowledge and wisdom........Steve
Jruss993
Woohoo! Synthcube just sent out my full kit for DD. Now just waiting on the front panel and case. So excited to finally have this coming together!
needspeed
Jruss993 wrote:
Woohoo! Synthcube just sent out my full kit for DD. Now just waiting on the front panel and case. So excited to finally have this coming together!


Very happy to hear that, but I figure unless you have the PCBs the panel and case are circumstantial at best Mr. Green Mr. Green Mr. Green
Jruss993
needspeed wrote:
Jruss993 wrote:
Woohoo! Synthcube just sent out my full kit for DD. Now just waiting on the front panel and case. So excited to finally have this coming together!


Very happy to hear that, but I figure unless you have the PCBs the panel and case are circumstantial at best Mr. Green Mr. Green Mr. Green


Yup! hihi
Chrutil
My video about hand soldering 0805 SMD caps got some comments about how it could be done with solder paste and a hot air station instead.
This got me curious so I decided to try it out and make a comparison video:

Soldering 0805 Caps for Deckard's Dream part 2 - Iron or Hot Air
needspeed
MY PCBs have made it to Chicago from Japan. That is only 4 or so hours from where I live!!!!!!!!!!! It's got to be this week so hopefully I will be the first to post PCB pics unless on of you beat me to it!!!!!!!!!!!


10/15/2017 22:44 Item returned from import Customs ISC CHICAGO IL (USPS) UNITED STATES OF AMERICA
Mr. Green Mr. Green Mr. Green
roglok
Has anyone found an alternative source for switch/slider caps yet. The pricing for the ones specified in the BOM is outrageous (3£ for 10pcs). After all those are just tiny coloured PVC nipples...
the bad producer
@roglok - I'm going to buy the Smallbear soft touch ones in white and dye them, like this chap:

https://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=83775

These: $0.12 each

http://www.smallbear-electronics.mybigcommerce.com/colored-caps-soft-t ouch/
roglok
the bad producer wrote:
@roglok - I'm going to buy the Smallbear soft touch ones in white and dye them, like this chap:

https://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=83775

These: $0.12 each

http://www.smallbear-electronics.mybigcommerce.com/colored-caps-soft-t ouch/


Thanks for the link - that sounds a bit more reasonable! Doing it the hard way, I don't suppose you'd be willing to produce a few extras...

whistlin' Give somebody an inch...
the bad producer
f u

hihi

Yeah, why not - they may not be exactly the correct colour Miley Cyrus

I'll let you know how it goes!
Jruss993
Chrutil wrote:
My video about hand soldering 0805 SMD caps got some comments about how it could be done with solder paste and a hot air station instead.
This got me curious so I decided to try it out and make a comparison video:

Soldering 0805 Caps for Deckard's Dream part 2 - Iron or Hot Air


Thanks for the video! I think without a reflow oven, it seems quicker and more practical to just use an iron. I find 0805's pretty comfortable to solder with the right prep and equipment. 0603 on the other hand, it ain't so easy screaming goo yo
Sideshow
roglok wrote:
Has anyone found an alternative source for switch/slider caps yet. The pricing for the ones specified in the BOM is outrageous (3£ for 10pcs). After all those are just tiny coloured PVC nipples...

Sounds like group buy stuff...
ultravox
Sideshow wrote:
roglok wrote:
Has anyone found an alternative source for switch/slider caps yet. The pricing for the ones specified in the BOM is outrageous (3£ for 10pcs). After all those are just tiny coloured PVC nipples...

Sounds like group buy stuff...


The switch covers arrived today. I ordered the colors separately but they arrived as a kit.

Sideshow
ultravox wrote:
The switch covers arrived today. I ordered the colors separately but they arrived as a kit.


Cool!
So they came as a kit? And you didn't order it as a kit?
ultravox
Sideshow wrote:

Cool!
So they came as a kit? And you didn't order it as a kit?


Exactly. When I placed the order I didn't see a Deckard's Dream kit option. Maybe they knew what I wanted by the colors I chose?
Sideshow
ultravox wrote:
Sideshow wrote:

Cool!
So they came as a kit? And you didn't order it as a kit?


Exactly. When I placed the order I didn't see a Deckard's Dream kit option. Maybe they knew what I wanted by the colors I chose?

Sweet! Just sent them an mail asking for the kit.
They really should make it an option in their webstore cool
roglok
ultravox wrote:
Sideshow wrote:

Cool!
So they came as a kit? And you didn't order it as a kit?


Exactly. When I placed the order I didn't see a Deckard's Dream kit option. Maybe they knew what I wanted by the colors I chose?


so how much was the kit?
ultravox
roglok wrote:
ultravox wrote:
Sideshow wrote:

Cool!
So they came as a kit? And you didn't order it as a kit?


Exactly. When I placed the order I didn't see a Deckard's Dream kit option. Maybe they knew what I wanted by the colors I chose?


so how much was the kit?


I paid £2.99 for quantities of 10 of each required color. There wasn't a kit advertised, it just arrived that way. hihi
keninverse
Spoke to Roman. He's amenable to the idea of releasing the smd gerber layer to the public so we can get some stencils. No reason for all of us to each buy one so maybe we can pass a few around?
needspeed
keninverse wrote:
Spoke to Roman. He's amenable to the idea of releasing the smd gerber layer to the public so we can get some stencils. No reason for all of us to each buy one so maybe we can pass a few around?
That is very cool for those who are so inclined.....Good news....Steve
weedywhizz
Will have vinyl switch / slider covers in a few days in 6 colors:
black / white / blue / red / yellow / orange

The ones from that kit pictured above look like the ones from Mouser (The ones on microminiatures website do not). It these are the same - they will most likely crack on the sliders.

Might offer kits but no green color available.
weedywhizz
black / white / blue / red / yellow / orange vinyl caps available in a few days.

The ones from that kit pictured above look like the ones from Mouser (The ones on microminiatures website do not). It these are the same - they will most likely crack on the sliders.

Might offer kits but no green and grey color available.
Sideshow
weedywhizz wrote:
The ones from that kit pictured above look like the ones from Mouser (The ones on microminiatures website do not). It these are the same - they will most likely crack on the sliders.

How long do you think they'll last before they crack?

Would it perhaps be wiser to use colored plastic caps instead, if they're available in the right colours?
ultravox
weedywhizz wrote:

The ones from that kit pictured above look like the ones from Mouser (The ones on microminiatures website do not). It these are the same - they will most likely crack on the sliders.


The ones in the picture are from micro miniatures and ordered from the link in the BOM. They're either the correct ones or I got the old bait-n-switch. (no pun intended)
fuzzbass
Sideshow wrote:
weedywhizz wrote:
The ones from that kit pictured above look like the ones from Mouser (The ones on microminiatures website do not). It these are the same - they will most likely crack on the sliders.

How long do you think they'll last before they crack?

Would it perhaps be wiser to use colored plastic caps instead, if they're available in the right colours?


I have the sliders here, and some of the mouser toggle switch tips too. Tight fit! I'm afraid of damaging the slider if I try to force it all the way on. Not sure what is coming from Microminiatures, but these mouser tips are not right.

Ah DIY, it always seems to come down to I want these pots but I want those knobs and never the two shall meet.
synthcube
We've also got a stash of the Roman-specced slider caps coming, in all colors, due here around 25 October. For kits that have already shipped out, those will be sent with the other backordered parts from your kit run. If there's interest we can add a 'cap kit' to the store.
livewire
FWIW - I'd be interested in a "cap kit". No hurries, that will be one of the finishing touches for my DDDIY rig.
ultravox
synthcube wrote:
We've also got a stash of the Roman-specced slider caps coming, in all colors, due here around 25 October. For kits that have already shipped out, those will be sent with the other backordered parts from your kit run. If there's interest we can add a 'cap kit' to the store.


I've sent an email to micro miniatures about the caps. If they don't respond by tomorrow then kindly count me in for a 'cap kit'.

Footnote: I ordered the caps on Oct 2nd but never received shipping confirmation. Micro Miniatures has been slow to respond to emails, as in, not responding at all. I called them last week and a guy answered the phone and said he was not affiliated with them but he took a message...no response. The caps arrived Oct 16th.
fuzzbass
synthcube wrote:
We've also got a stash of the Roman-specced slider caps coming, in all colors, due here around 25 October. For kits that have already shipped out, those will be sent with the other backordered parts from your kit run. If there's interest we can add a 'cap kit' to the store.


I'm getting the feeling that I sunk $80 into rigid little plastic switch tips that might someday get repurposed into festive tops for all the mini toggle switches in my rack.

If you are buying the switronic toppers that seem to fit on Roman's prototypes, then I would probably end up buying a set from you. Thanks.
groove
synthcube wrote:
We've also got a stash of the Roman-specced slider caps coming, in all colors, due here around 25 October. For kits that have already shipped out, those will be sent with the other backordered parts from your kit run. If there's interest we can add a 'cap kit' to the store.


I'm in for a cap kit if you offer one.
synthcube
yes, its the switronic caps roman recommended-- probably going for about $0.10 or $0.15 each once we sort out inbound shipping and duties
ffont
Hi Synthcube,
My kit is currently held in customs in spain and hopefully I’ll finally get it next week. It was sent a week ago. I thought the kit was complete, but for what I’m reading here there’ll need to be another shipment of “extra” parts at some point? What is it missing? (sorry if this question has already been answered, I did not find a clear answer). Thanks!
synthcube
Hello
Each kit is being shipped about 95% to 98% complete-- we are still awaiting the colored slider caps, and a few other misc bits--- your kit has a BOM packed inside that notes the backordered items. We expect to ship envelopes end of Oct/early November as parts come in. Also, those envelopes will include parts for any BOM changes made after your kit was made, for example the resistor and diode changes.
Hope this helps!
needspeed
synthcube wrote:
Hello
Each kit is being shipped about 95% to 98% complete-- we are still awaiting the colored slider caps, and a few other misc bits--- your kit has a BOM packed inside that notes the backordered items. We expect to ship envelopes end of Oct/early November as parts come in. Also, those envelopes will include parts for any BOM changes made after your kit was made, for example the resistor and diode changes.
Hope this helps!


Awesome and thanks for your support. My PCBs arrive today!!!!! The build begins.......Steve
ffont
Thanks synthcube for the clarification!
That's great, I'm just afraid of another international shipping because of customs/shipping costs but it will be for a small amount so it should all be fine.

@Steve, we'll wait for your pics wink
needspeed
ffont wrote:
Thanks synthcube for the clarification!
That's great, I'm just afraid of another international shipping because of customs/shipping costs but it will be for a small amount so it should all be fine.

@Steve, we'll wait for your pics wink


I went to the Post Office before they opened and asked them to call me when they find my package so I do not have to wait for the truck. My mail gets delivered in the late afternoon. Yes I am crazy!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
needspeed
Boards are in my possession detailed pics to follow......Steve





the bad producer
It's peanut butter jelly time!

Are all the SMT caps on the back of the voice boards? Any chance of a peek, see how bad it is?!
needspeed
the bad producer wrote:
It's peanut butter jelly time!

Are all the SMT caps on the back of the voice boards? Any chance of a peek, see how bad it is?!


Yes I will take high res pics of front and back of all boards and post them in a bit. OK for you I have it.....better Pics later. with SLR not iPhone....Steve



the bad producer
Amazing, thanks! Not sooooo bad then hahaha!

They look quite tight, I usually prefer (if hand soldering) putting 0603 on those 0805 footprints (likewise 0805 on 1206) as there's a bit more 'wiggle room' for the iron...
needspeed
the bad producer wrote:
Amazing, thanks! Not sooooo bad then hahaha!

They look quite tight, I usually prefer (if hand soldering) putting 0603 on those 0805 footprints (likewise 0805 on 1206) as there's a bit more 'wiggle room' for the iron...


Understood but it will be fine I am very confident on the SMDs......Steve
the bad producer
Me too, was just chatting really!
fuzzbass
needspeed wrote:
I am very confident on the SMDs......Steve


So they're all done? You are fast! hihi
needspeed
fuzzbass wrote:
needspeed wrote:
I am very confident on the SMDs......Steve


So they're all done? You are fast! hihi


Very funny Tony. But I am ready to build the PSU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

ultravox
Happy building needspeed! thumbs up
needspeed
Hope I don't smell smoke!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

ultravox
Nice clean job!
KlangGenerator
Did you apply thermal paste between the Cincons and the heat sinks?
KlangGenerator
Aah, never mind. Completely overlooked those thermal pads... wink
Sideshow
Oh-la-la! nanners
Cool to see you are already wiggling the iron!
Looking forward to hear some proper demos soon This is fun!
fuzzbass
The little switch toppers from Microminiatures arrived today. They are a bit more pliable than the Mouser equivalents I had in the bin. They do slip onto the tangs of the sliders I got from Synthcube. They get a little stretched and maybe they might not tolerate that long term, but for now they seem fine.

Its funny I just ordered ten piece bags various colors but what I received said Deckard's Dream Kit. Maybe I should write them back and say I need the ones for my model railroad layout.
fuzzbass
needspeed wrote:
Hope I don't smell smoke!!!!!!!!!!!!!!



Your LEDs are out of order.
sduck
ultravox wrote:
Nice clean job!


That's because he hasn't soldered things yet. Or if he has, it didn't flow through to the component side at all...
needspeed
sduck wrote:
ultravox wrote:
Nice clean job!


That's because he hasn't soldered things yet. Or if he has, it didn't flow through to the component side at all...


Correct all components placed. Then solder from top where applicable then from bottom for the rest. Power is finished and will test tomorrow almost done with the output board but unfortunately SynthCube missed a 100uf electrolytic from this board from the parts kit.......Steve
sduck
Need one? I've probably got a spare...

edit: I do, in a variety of sizes, PM me if interested
needspeed
sduck wrote:
Need one? I've probably got a spare...

edit: I do, in a variety of sizes, PM me if interested



Thank you sduck I also have 2 of 3 components on backorder from SynthCube so it can sit for a bit.

I will start the main board tomorrow, so let's see what turns up missing on that one. I even got to do 3 SMDs on the Output Board no sweat......Steve

needspeed
KlangGenerator wrote:
Did you apply thermal paste between the Cincons and the heat sinks?


SynthCube included thermal pads otherwise paste would be required......Steve
Laughing
I can use a jumper wire for the 0 ohm resistor, right?
AlanP
That'll keep you all out of mischief for awhile.
LED-man
keninverse wrote:
Spoke to Roman. He's amenable to the idea of releasing the smd gerber layer to the public so we can get some stencils. No reason for all of us to each buy one so maybe we can pass a few around?


That's fine, do you have a info when he release the files ?
needspeed
Laughing wrote:
I can use a jumper wire for the 0 ohm resistor, right?
I would thinks so, but it is interesting that it is specified by Roman as opposed to a simple jumper wire.......Steve
ultravox
LED-man wrote:
keninverse wrote:
Spoke to Roman. He's amenable to the idea of releasing the smd gerber layer to the public so we can get some stencils. No reason for all of us to each buy one so maybe we can pass a few around?


That's fine, do you have a info when he release the files ?


Count me in. I'm about to convert our old toaster oven to perform reflow duties. It might not get much use but it'll be nice to have around.
Sideshow
needspeed wrote:
Laughing wrote:
I can use a jumper wire for the 0 ohm resistor, right?
I would thinks so, but it is interesting that it is specified by Roman as opposed to a simple jumper wire.......Steve


I guess it's because he has used the same schematics both for the SMD-version aswell as the through-hole DIY-version.
When designing for manufacturing, you often use 0ohm instead of jumper wire. This is because a resistor is easier to handle for the pick'n place machine than a jumper wire.
Chrutil
Sideshow wrote:
needspeed wrote:
Laughing wrote:
I can use a jumper wire for the 0 ohm resistor, right?
I would thinks so, but it is interesting that it is specified by Roman as opposed to a simple jumper wire.......Steve


I guess it's because he has used the same schematics both for the SMD-version aswell as the through-hole DIY-version.
When designing for manufacturing, you often use 0ohm instead of jumper wire. This is because a resistor is easier to handle for the pick'n place machine than a jumper wire.


Possibly. Still odd though. Why include a jumper wire at all?
I have seen 0 Ohm resistors being used for test points or for jumper wires on single sided boards. We already have a real test point component in the BOM (534-5123) and it's not like Roman needed to have a hand made VIA in there? Perhaps there used to be a resistor that was then deemed unnecessary...
Anyway, I haven't got my boards yet so it's not like I can start, but I would really like to get my hands on the schematics before I start building - if for no other reason than learning with context as I go along.

Christer
sduck
Laughing wrote:
I can use a jumper wire for the 0 ohm resistor, right?


Just check it on your DMM to make sure it's a 0 ohm wire
needspeed
Took about an hour hand soldered.......Steve

needspeed
synthcube wrote:
We've also got a stash of the Roman-specced slider caps coming, in all colors, due here around 25 October. For kits that have already shipped out, those will be sent with the other backordered parts from your kit run. If there's interest we can add a 'cap kit' to the store.


Sent you guys a message concerning a missed a 100uf electrolytic cap on the Output board, so please add to your BOM.......Steve
jimfowler
Anybody have a spare quartet of EG2201B switches? It would appear that the whole world is sold out until late December.

- Jim
ultravox
jimfowler wrote:
Anybody have a spare quartet of EG2201B switches? It would appear that the whole world is sold out until late December.

- Jim


I bought EG2201 and EG2301B switches and swapped the 3mm slider of the EG2201 with the 9mm slider from EG2301B.

I also found Switronic SS22H05G_ have the same dimensions and look like EG2201_ switches: http://www.switronic.com/gallery/detail/487. I saw on Instagram that the colored slider covers for the prebuilt units came from there so I did a little digging.

EG2201 slide switches modified to EG2201B:
the bad producer
applause
jimfowler
ultravox wrote:
jimfowler wrote:
Anybody have a spare quartet of EG2201B switches? It would appear that the whole world is sold out until late December.

- Jim


I bought EG2201 and EG2301B switches and swapped the 3mm slider of the EG2201 with the 9mm slider from EG2301B.

I also found Switronic SS22H05G_ have the same dimensions and look like EG2201_ switches: http://www.switronic.com/gallery/detail/487. I saw on Instagram that the colored slider covers for the prebuilt units came from there so I did a little digging.

EG2201 slide switches modified to EG2201B:


Brilliant! Thanks for the tip...I'm going to do exactly the same thing.
needspeed
REV1.0.7 CHANGED R2 ON THE OUTPUT BOARD TO 22R, CHANGED C6 ON THE MOTHERBOARD TO 10uF
jimfowler
Rev. 1.0 Motherboard - Looks like C188 shows up twice and C186 is omitted. I'm presuming that the left-most is supposed to be C186. Anybody wanna confirm/deny?

[/img]
needspeed
jimfowler wrote:
Rev. 1.0 Motherboard - Looks like C188 shows up twice and C186 is omitted. I'm presuming that the left-most is supposed to be C186. Anybody wanna confirm/deny?

[/img]


Mine looks the same. Since they are the same value I expect that it does not matter except that the screen print is incorrect.

I will pose this to Roman right away.


So you are working the Main board? I am finishing up one voice board and then will go for the Main Board. If we go to fast we will have hardware but need firmware I think for the DDRM to do anything????......Steve
needspeed
needspeed wrote:
Laughing wrote:
I can use a jumper wire for the 0 ohm resistor, right?
I would thinks so, but it is interesting that it is specified by Roman as opposed to a simple jumper wire.......Steve


BOM REV1.0.7 changes this 0 ohm resistor to 22R........Steve
needspeed
There are a lot of freeking parts on this board!!!!!!!!!!!!!

ffont
Quote:
There are a lot of freeking parts on this board!!!!!!!!!!!!!


What do you mean by “freeking”? How long did it take?
My boards shipped one week and a half ago and I haven’t got any further news :(
needspeed
ffont wrote:
Quote:
There are a lot of freeking parts on this board!!!!!!!!!!!!!


What do you mean by “freeking”? How long did it take?
My boards shipped one week and a half ago and I haven’t got any further news :(


That is a long time for you to wait and not even get an update. What I meant by freeking=F*cking, is that there are 397 components to stuff and solder per board.

So I have 8 hours into 1 voice card as it takes time to place the components and ensure each one is exactly in the right place.

After awhile all the resistors look the same and scanning the board for where to place a component gets tiring as you have to search for where each and every part goes.

In the end it is a very dense board.......Steve
ffont
hehe ok, thanks Steve!
I'm almost total newbie so it will take a lot of time for me, but I'm happy with it smile

I contacted black corporation to see if they can help me with the shipping problems. They told me they'll contact Japan mail. Fingers crossed!
KlangGenerator
needspeed wrote:
ffont wrote:
Quote:
There are a lot of freeking parts on this board!!!!!!!!!!!!!


What do you mean by “freeking”? How long did it take?
My boards shipped one week and a half ago and I haven’t got any further news :(


That is a long time for you to wait and not even get an update. What I meant by freeking=F*cking, is there are 397 components to stuff and solder per board.

So I have 8 hours into 1 voice card as it takes time to place the components and ensure each one is exactly in the right place.

After awhile all the resistors look the same and scanning the board for where to place a component gets tiring as you have to search for where each and every part goes.

In the end it is a very dense board.......Steve


My shipping status also didn't change for one week now. seriously, i just don't get it

The fastest way to complete the voice cards will be to solder all 8 of them at once.

Example:

- first all resistors starting with the lowest values and ending with the highest
- next all caps, again lowest to highest
- diodes
...

This way you don't have to go through the same parts over and over again. If you go card by card you'll end up opening and closing each of the countless bags with components 7 times more often. This unnecessary work will take a lot more time and can also be pretty confusing. Also when concentrating on one part, you'll immediately find it's position on the next 7 cards.
needspeed
KlangGenerator wrote:
The fastest way to complete the voice cards will be to solder all 8 of them at once.

Example:

- first all resistors starting with the lowest values and ending with the highest
- next all caps, again lowest to highest
- diodes
...

This way you don't have to go through the same parts over and over again. If you go card by card you'll end up opening and closing each of the countless bags with components 7 times more often. This unnecessary work will take a lot more time and can also be pretty confusing. Also when concentrating on one part, you'll immediately find it's position on the next 7 cards.


Agree but I really wanted to get one voice card complete so I can stand the DDRM up and run it/test it. I will do the others the way you recommend......Thanks.....Steve
fuzzbass
needspeed wrote:
There are a lot of freeking parts on this board!!!!!!!!!!!!!


The only DIY project I have seen that approaches the complexity of this one is Old Crow's OB clone. Each voice board here contains 2x VCOs, 2x dual mode VCFs, 7x VCAs and 4x ADSRs plus ancillary control circuits. Although this one board looks jammed, it would be huge if not for the VCOs and VCAs on a chip and the op amps.
needspeed
fuzzbass wrote:
needspeed wrote:
There are a lot of freeking parts on this board!!!!!!!!!!!!!


The only DIY project I have seen that approaches the complexity of this one is Old Crow's OB clone. Each voice board here contains 2x VCOs, 2x dual mode VCFs, 7x VCAs and 4x ADSRs plus ancillary control circuits. Although this one board looks jammed, it would be huge if not for the VCOs and VCAs on a chip and the op amps.


I would not even want to imagine that discreet adventure and yet Yamaha did a lot more of it on the CS-80 then we have to do, so I do not want to think on what that looked like......Steve
LED-man
ffont wrote:
hehe ok, thanks Steve!
I'm almost total newbie so it will take a lot of time for me, but I'm happy with it smile

I contacted black corporation to see if they can help me with the shipping problems. They told me they'll contact Japan mail. Fingers crossed!

Same here, in office for export since 12.oct.
ultravox
LED-man wrote:
ffont wrote:
hehe ok, thanks Steve!
I'm almost total newbie so it will take a lot of time for me, but I'm happy with it smile

I contacted black corporation to see if they can help me with the shipping problems. They told me they'll contact Japan mail. Fingers crossed!

Same here, in office for export since 12.oct.


Me too.
ffont
ok so I'm not alone!
I guess it's all good then, they're just being slow.
In any case if get news from black corporation I'll let you know.
Chrutil
Mine had no update since being picked up on the 11th then being processed in Tokyo on the 13th until today when it suddenly appears at the destination facility here in northern California early this morning.
A week of quiescence is nothing to worry about, it's normal when dealing with international shipping.
I just ordered my initial batch of parts a few days ago, and with some crucial parts on backorder I'm looking at January for firing up this beast.
But hey, I've waited this long...
oberling
maybe the international customs offices get suspicious of all the "deckards dream" packages from a "black corporation"... some kind of new (synthetic hihi ) drug or something!? hihi
save to say they wouldn't be entirely wrong there - this is going to be the new peak to my g.a.s. cool
Jruss993
Chrutil wrote:
Mine had no update since being picked up on the 11th then being processed in Tokyo on the 13th until today when it suddenly appears at the destination facility here in northern California early this morning.
A week of quiescence is nothing to worry about, it's normal when dealing with international shipping.
I just ordered my initial batch of parts a few days ago, and with some crucial parts on backorder I'm looking at January for firing up this beast.
But hey, I've waited this long...


Yup. Mine was just updated this morning as well. Looks like it made it into Canada yesterday morning, might get to me today or Monday! Pumped!
jersupereq
Mine was in customs and not updated for awhile but now it is through custom and on its way to the regional shipping facility in San Francisco!!!!! I am both excited and terrified.
needspeed
OK so I am kinda done with a voice card. R40, R45, R151 and R146 are empty on my card. When I check the BOM they are not specified there. I sent a PM to Roman on this.

All is fine per Roman as follows: these are not installed, i left them for possibility of a filter adjustment. which won't be required after the final EG tweak i made couple weeks ago. Me: So leave empty no jumper Roman: yes, we have decided to keep them on a pcb just in case, but they dont need to be populated

Will update page 1
groove
Chrutil wrote:
Mine had no update since being picked up on the 11th then being processed in Tokyo on the 13th until today when it suddenly appears at the destination facility here in northern California early this morning.
A week of quiescence is nothing to worry about, it's normal when dealing with international shipping.


That is reassuring. I am also waiting on a tracking pause since the 12th. Hopefully it'll show up in NY in a few more days - anxious to get started.
needspeed
I want to put the chips in so bad, but why chance static KABOOM!!!! Unfortunately there were 4 missing resistors from Romans BOM and 2 back-ordered from SynthCube kit. So close. Yes the flux will be removed!!! Pics of Main board progress later.....Steve

needspeed
All is fine per Roman as follows: these are not installed, i left them for possibility of a filter adjustment. which won't be required after the final EG tweak i made couple weeks ago. Me: So leave empty no jumper Roman: yes, we have decided to keep them on a pcb just in case, but they dont need to be populated

See UPDATE on initial thread post.......Steve
whomper
Exciting project!
Always wanted to build a poly analog synth.

Waiting for my boards and kit to arrive and join the party Rockin' Banana!
needspeed
whomper wrote:
Exciting project!
Always wanted to build a poly analog synth.

Waiting for my boards and kit to arrive and join the party Rockin' Banana!


I hope they come soon as I feel all alone out here but planning to have 1 voice ready and all other boards done by Sunday. Need firmware from Roman or it will do nothing....Steve
whomper
needspeed wrote:

I hope they come soon as I feel all alone out here but planning to have 1 voice ready and all other boards done by Sunday. Need firmware from Roman or it will do nothing....Steve


Isn't the firmware part of the original PCB kit?
needspeed
OOOPPPSSS!!!!!!!!! Ignore
needspeed
whomper wrote:

Isn't the firmware part of the original PCB kit?


The logic chip is but the firmware is not installed and this may be partially due to Roman still using the pre-built models to tweak the firmware to a higher state of quality and features. Roman has not as yet released the firmware but should be next week I hope as I will need ti to power up my 1 voice DDRM!!!!!!!!!!

You will need to buy or borrow a programmer as follows: ST-LINK
fuzzbass
needspeed wrote:
All is fine per Roman as follows: these are not installed, i left them for possibility of a filter adjustment. which won't be required after the final EG tweak i made couple weeks ago. Me: So leave empty no jumper Roman: yes, we have decided to keep them on a pcb just in case, but they dont need to be populated

See UPDATE on initial thread post.......Steve


If not already done, I recommend you post somewhere maybe google docs a running list of build deviations and bits like this. Put link to it in the original post. Also the schottky change...
needspeed
fuzzbass wrote:
needspeed wrote:
All is fine per Roman as follows: these are not installed, i left them for possibility of a filter adjustment. which won't be required after the final EG tweak i made couple weeks ago. Me: So leave empty no jumper Roman: yes, we have decided to keep them on a pcb just in case, but they dont need to be populated

See UPDATE on initial thread post.......Steve


If not already done, I recommend you post somewhere maybe google docs a running list of build deviations and bits like this. Put link to it in the original post. Also the schottky change...


We have led-mans Wiki just need to get it updated and is linked on the first post.
I also have been making notes in the initial post with update notes.......Steve
livewire
needspeed wrote:
whomper wrote:
Exciting project!
Always wanted to build a poly analog synth.

Waiting for my boards and kit to arrive and join the party Rockin' Banana!


I hope they come soon as I feel all alone out here but planning to have 1 voice ready and all other boards done by Sunday. Need firmware from Roman or it will do nothing....Steve


My Dream appeared yesterday. You are not alone. Found a pair of kewl black stickers in the box along with all the black & gold boards. Now I think I get the replicant thing, what with eight identical voice boards waiting to be populated. Gonna lay down 600+ 0805 caps today. We'll see how those alien eye glasses work out.
needspeed
livewire wrote:
needspeed wrote:
whomper wrote:
Exciting project!
Always wanted to build a poly analog synth.

Waiting for my boards and kit to arrive and join the party Rockin' Banana!


I hope they come soon as I feel all alone out here but planning to have 1 voice ready and all other boards done by Sunday. Need firmware from Roman or it will do nothing....Steve


My Dream appeared yesterday. You are not alone. Found a pair of kewl black stickers in the box along with all the black & gold boards. Now I think I get the replicant thing, what with eight identical voice boards waiting to be populated. Gonna lay down 600+ 0805 caps today. We'll see how those alien eye glasses work out.


Holy POOP I hope you survive as the SMDs alone are quite a journey. Look forward to your progress and ultimate success......Steve
douglullabies
First off THANK YOU to everyones pictures and post, ya'll have been super helpful already but I'm still feeling a little overwhelmed with ordering all the remaining parts for the DD DIY kit. Could one of you noble synth wizards please post a refined list of all the necessary parts to build this thing, in one single post? Step by step. The saved carts have been useful but Im still a bit confused as to which saved carts (synthcube/mouser?)to order. What is the difference between synth cube "everything else components kit" and "full components kit" ? I have the BOM so that helps but Ive never done anything at this scale and could use some help so I don't buy the wrong stuff. Tons of thanks and sorry if I'm asking for something that has already been posted! we're not worthy
needspeed
douglullabies wrote:
First off THANK YOU to everyones pictures and post, ya'll have been super helpful already but I'm still feeling a little overwhelmed with ordering all the remaining parts for the DD DIY kit. Could one of you noble synth wizards please post a refined list of all the necessary parts to build this thing, in one single post? Step by step. The saved carts have been useful but Im still a bit confused as to which saved carts (synthcube/mouser?)to order. What is the difference between synth cube "everything else components kit" and "full components kit" ? I have the BOM so that helps but Ive never done anything at this scale and could use some help so I don't buy the wrong stuff. Tons of thanks and sorry if I'm asking for something that has already been posted! we're not worthy


What have you purchased so for for parts?????
sduck
If you don't know how to order stuff from a BOM you should just get the everything kit from synthcube.
MikkelM
Does anybody know if the firmware will be open source, so you can mess around with all the DAC’s

Cheers M
needspeed
sduck wrote:
If you don't know how to order stuff from a BOM you should just get the everything kit from synthcube.


Do not walk but run to SynthCube and buy the Full Component Kit $1,688.00. You will need a couple of items from mouser but generally the AC power brick and the ST-Link programmer.......Steve
needspeed
MikkelM wrote:
Does anybody know if the firmware will be open source, so you can mess around with all the DAC’s

Cheers M


Do not know at this point, I will be ready to power up on Monday, so just version 1.0 of firmware will make my day as without it, nothing will happen.....Steve
KlangGenerator
needspeed wrote:
You will need a couple of items from mouser but generally the AC power brick and the ST-Link programmer.......Steve


Unfortunately the Cincon AC adapter is not available to customers in Europe. Anyone here can recommend a substitute?
needspeed
KlangGenerator wrote:
needspeed wrote:
You will need a couple of items from mouser but generally the AC power brick and the ST-Link programmer.......Steve


Unfortunately the Cincon AC adapter is not available to customers in Europe. Anyone here can recommend a substitute?


Its just an AC to DC power brick not necessarily for the Cincon just needs to be correct voltage and amp capacity.......Steve
douglullabies
needspeed wrote:
sduck wrote:
If you don't know how to order stuff from a BOM you should just get the everything kit from synthcube.


Do not walk but run to SynthCube and buy the Full Component Kit $1,688.00. You will need a couple of items from mouser but generally the AC power brick and the ST-Link programmer.......Steve


Is there a list for what this $1,688.00 kit includes? If it does not include the case and front panel then that takes it almost 2 G's.

Deckards website says cost of everything else would be around $1000.00

Did I miss something?
This is mad confusing.
needspeed
douglullabies wrote:
needspeed wrote:
sduck wrote:
If you don't know how to order stuff from a BOM you should just get the everything kit from synthcube.


Do not walk but run to SynthCube and buy the Full Component Kit $1,688.00. You will need a couple of items from mouser but generally the AC power brick and the ST-Link programmer.......Steve


Is there a list for what this $1,688.00 kit includes? If it does not include the case and front panel then that takes it almost 2 G's.

Deckards website says cost of everything else would be around $1000.00

Did I miss something?
This is mad confusing.


That was an estimate by Roman not a guarantee.

I paid the following and this is with getting in on the group buys:
DDRM Kit 999
Synthcube parts kit 989
Group buys (4) 480
Panel 220
Mouser 45
DDRM Total 2733USD Total
douglullabies
needspeed wrote:
douglullabies wrote:
needspeed wrote:
sduck wrote:
If you don't know how to order stuff from a BOM you should just get the everything kit from synthcube.


Do not walk but run to SynthCube and buy the Full Component Kit $1,688.00. You will need a couple of items from mouser but generally the AC power brick and the ST-Link programmer.......Steve


Is there a list for what this $1,688.00 kit includes? If it does not include the case and front panel then that takes it almost 2 G's.

Deckards website says cost of everything else would be around $1000.00

Did I miss something?
This is mad confusing.


That was an estimate by Roman not a guarantee.

I paid the following and this is with getting in on the group buys:
DDRM Kit 999
Synthcube parts kit 989
Group buys (4) 480
Panel 220
Mouser 45
DDRM Total 2733USD Total


Thanks for shedding some light on this! I missed the group buy (4), can you break that down? Im assuming this was for the oscillator and VCA chips, anything else? Still wondering what the difference between the "full" and "everything" synth cube component kits are. I'm looking but don't see any itemized list? I'll try and make this my last question on the topic to not take up too much muff board real estate. Sorry for the annoyance to all of you who can do this in your sleep.
needspeed
douglullabies wrote:
needspeed wrote:
douglullabies wrote:
needspeed wrote:
sduck wrote:
If you don't know how to order stuff from a BOM you should just get the everything kit from synthcube.


Do not walk but run to SynthCube and buy the Full Component Kit $1,688.00. You will need a couple of items from mouser but generally the AC power brick and the ST-Link programmer.......Steve


Is there a list for what this $1,688.00 kit includes? If it does not include the case and front panel then that takes it almost 2 G's.

Deckards website says cost of everything else would be around $1000.00

Did I miss something?
This is mad confusing.


That was an estimate by Roman not a guarantee.

I paid the following and this is with getting in on the group buys:
DDRM Kit 999
Synthcube parts kit 989
Group buys (4) 480
Panel 220
Mouser 45
DDRM Total 2733USD Total


Thanks for shedding some light on this! I missed the group buy (4), can you break that down? Im assuming this was for the oscillator and VCA chips, anything else? Still wondering what the difference between the "full" and "everything" synth cube component kits are. I'm looking but don't see any itemized list? I'll try and make this my last question on the topic to not take up too much muff board real estate. Sorry for the annoyance to all of you who can do this in your sleep.


Group buys were for CEM3340 and V2164D Chips, 70 sliders and 2 Cincon DC-DC converters.

The everything else kit does not include the above.

The full kit includes CEM3340 and V2164D Chips, 70 sliders and 2 Cincon DC-DC converters and all the parts needed to build the kit to populate the PCBs. You still will need an AC to DC power brick and an ST-LINK programmer in addition......Steve
Pando
Here's a breakdown of costs. If you order everything today you get:

PCB boards from Deckardsdream = $999
Case and panel from DIYHub = $220
Full component kit from Synthcube = $1688
DC brick and programmer from Mouser = ~$45

So without any group buys the total is $2952, or almost exactly $3000 with shipping (depending where you live).

Folks who got in group buys early saved about two hundred bucks.

If you order the fully built one you pay $3749, and the shipping is free.

So the question is how much is your time worth? Experienced person will probably take a straight 1-2 weeks (8+ hours per day) to assemble everything, and you'll probably go thru some frustrations along the process without a guaranteed success. But you'll save about $750.
douglullabies
needspeed wrote:
douglullabies wrote:
needspeed wrote:
douglullabies wrote:
needspeed wrote:
sduck wrote:
If you don't know how to order stuff from a BOM you should just get the everything kit from synthcube.


Do not walk but run to SynthCube and buy the Full Component Kit $1,688.00. You will need a couple of items from mouser but generally the AC power brick and the ST-Link programmer.......Steve


Is there a list for what this $1,688.00 kit includes? If it does not include the case and front panel then that takes it almost 2 G's.

Deckards website says cost of everything else would be around $1000.00

Did I miss something?
This is mad confusing.


That was an estimate by Roman not a guarantee.

I paid the following and this is with getting in on the group buys:
DDRM Kit 999
Synthcube parts kit 989
Group buys (4) 480
Panel 220
Mouser 45
DDRM Total 2733USD Total


Thanks for shedding some light on this! I missed the group buy (4), can you break that down? Im assuming this was for the oscillator and VCA chips, anything else? Still wondering what the difference between the "full" and "everything" synth cube component kits are. I'm looking but don't see any itemized list? I'll try and make this my last question on the topic to not take up too much muff board real estate. Sorry for the annoyance to all of you who can do this in your sleep.


Group buys were for CEM3340 and V2164D Chips, 70 sliders and 2 Cincon DC-DC converters.

The everything else kit does not include the above.

The full kit includes CEM3340 and V2164D Chips, 70 sliders and 2 Cincon DC-DC converters and all the parts needed to build the kit to populate the PCBs. You still will need an AC to DC power brick and an ST-LINK programmer in addition......Steve


Perfect Steve, got it. Thank you.
douglullabies
Pando wrote:
Here's a breakdown of costs. If you order everything today you get:

PCB boards from Deckardsdream = $999
Case and panel from DIYHub = $220
Full component kit from Synthcube = $1688
DC brick and programmer from Mouser = ~$45

So without any group buys the total is $2952, or almost exactly $3000 with shipping (depending where you live).

Folks who got in group buys early saved about two hundred bucks.

If you order the fully built one you pay $3749, and the shipping is free.

So the question is how much is your time worth? Experienced person will probably take a straight 1-2 weeks (8+ hours per day) to assemble everything, and you'll probably go thru some frustrations along the process without a guaranteed success. But you'll save about $750.


thumbs up Appreciate the breakdown!
needspeed
You can save money by building it yourself or any kit.

But for those who are into DIY, its because we want to build our own synths and modules.

I will be done with my kit with 1 voice card tomorrow, and it has been hard, but I am loving that I am building it.

If I EEFFF it up, it will cost more than a pre-built kit. Regardless, I am so happy that this kit has been made available for those/me who like to hobby.......Steve
sduck
MikkelM wrote:
Does anybody know if the firmware will be open source, so you can mess around with all the DAC’s


I seem to recall Roman saying he was going to release the schematics, but keep the code private to keep some control over his work.
needspeed
sduck wrote:
MikkelM wrote:
Does anybody know if the firmware will be open source, so you can mess around with all the DAC’s


I seem to recall Roman saying he was going to release the schematics, but keep the code private to keep some control over his work.


Indeed this is true that we should see the schematics by the end of this month, and no he will keep the code to himself, to protect his intellectual property......Steve
needspeed
Hey what are you guys up to, or are you keeping your build a secret??? Just wondering......Steve
Jruss993
needspeed wrote:
Hey what are you guys up to, or are you keeping your build a secret??? Just wondering......Steve


Still awaiting PCBs. Probably will arrive Monday or Tuesday! Gonna pull a long day with 0805s and get them all done I reckon.
needspeed
Jruss993 wrote:
needspeed wrote:
Hey what are you guys up to, or are you keeping your build a secret??? Just wondering......Steve


Still awaiting PCBs. Probably will arrive Monday or Tuesday! Gonna pull a long day with 0805s and get them all done I reckon.


I thought I was going to do the same thing, but after doing the 1 voice board I had had enough, so I just finished building the voice card. It is an exhausting board.

Done with PSU and Output boards and just about done with the Main board.

Make sure you note the BOM changes posted in the first post of this thread.

Will finish the Control board tomorrow and if I had firmware it would be ready to play.

Good luck with your build it is intense......Steve
Jruss993
needspeed wrote:
Jruss993 wrote:
needspeed wrote:
Hey what are you guys up to, or are you keeping your build a secret??? Just wondering......Steve


Still awaiting PCBs. Probably will arrive Monday or Tuesday! Gonna pull a long day with 0805s and get them all done I reckon.


I thought I was going to do the same thing, but after doing the 1 voice board I had had enough, so I just finished building the voice card. It is an exhausting board.

Done with PSU and Output boards and just about done with the Main board.

Make sure you note the BOM changes posted in the first post of this thread.

Will finish the Control board tomorrow and if I had firmware it would be ready to play.

Good luck with your build it is intense......Steve


Noted! Thanks for all the pics and information, it's truly appreciated. I at least have a bit of an idea of what to expect. I'm good with a soldering iron, and I've done some pretty intense projects at work, but never a synth of this size. I hope I don't eff it up!
ultravox
needspeed wrote:
Hey what are you guys up to, or are you keeping your build a secret??? Just wondering......Steve


I just landed in Amsterdam on my way to Toulouse, France so no building for me for 2 weeks. By the time I get home your DDRM should have all 8 voices up and running... I'll be at step 1: soldering 650+ SMD caps. lol
needspeed
ultravox wrote:
needspeed wrote:
Hey what are you guys up to, or are you keeping your build a secret??? Just wondering......Steve


I just landed in Amsterdam on my way to Toulouse, France so no building for me for 2 weeks. By the time I get home your DDRM should have all 8 voices up and running... I'll be at step 1: soldering 650+ SMD caps. lol


Cool I hope you have a great trip. Maybe waiting will be good as I will find the issues before you return......Steve
ultravox
needspeed wrote:
ultravox wrote:
needspeed wrote:
Hey what are you guys up to, or are you keeping your build a secret??? Just wondering......Steve


I just landed in Amsterdam on my way to Toulouse, France so no building for me for 2 weeks. By the time I get home your DDRM should have all 8 voices up and running... I'll be at step 1: soldering 650+ SMD caps. lol


Cool I hope you have a great trip. Maybe waiting will be good as I will find the issues before you return......Steve


Cool - That works for me! thumbs up
ultravox
Just curious if anyone has done PCB scans yet? They can be a lifesaver.
needspeed
ultravox wrote:
Just curious if anyone has done PCB scans yet? They can be a lifesaver.


I took iPhone pics of mine I will post tomorrow. Should have broken out the DSLR!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
ultravox
needspeed wrote:
ultravox wrote:
Just curious if anyone has done PCB scans yet? They can be a lifesaver.


I took iPhone pics of mine I will post tomorrow. Should have broken out the DSLR!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


Thanks!!
fuzzbass
ultravox wrote:
Just curious if anyone has done PCB scans yet? They can be a lifesaver.


I have many things ahead of this in my queue, but I'll do scans when my kit arrives.
jimfowler
needspeed wrote:
Hey what are you guys up to, or are you keeping your build a secret??? Just wondering......Steve


Done with motherboard, hardware board, psu and output board. Doing surface mount caps today on all voice boards, will slog through through-hole components on voice boards within the next week or three.
ultravox
fuzzbass wrote:
ultravox wrote:
Just curious if anyone has done PCB scans yet? They can be a lifesaver.


I have many things ahead of this in my queue, but I'll do scans when my kit arrives.


Excellent!
sduck
I always do scans of PCBs when I get them, but mine aren't here yet. Haven't even opened these 2 big boxes from synthcube. Working on a EMS Synthi A clone which has to get done before i can start on this one.
whomper
Pando wrote:
Here's a breakdown of costs. If you order everything today you get:

So the question is how much is your time worth? Experienced person will probably take a straight 1-2 weeks (8+ hours per day) to assemble everything, and you'll probably go thru some frustrations along the process without a guaranteed success. But you'll save about $750.


More than value of time spent, its the sense of achievement of building and using such a great instrument. I've built and used most of my studio equipment, certainly the huge modular synth I own.

For me, making music with the stuff I build is the best. Only challenge is to make sure to spend time making music, because you get drawn so much to building stuff...
whomper
needspeed wrote:
Hey what are you guys up to, or are you keeping your build a secret??? Just wondering......Steve


Just started purchasing it all. Will take time for everything to arrive and me start building.

Need to build a pair of living room active speakers before....
ultravox
Looks like we all have a bit of a backlog. I have one TTSH on the bench, one waiting in line and an 8 voice crOwBX that I need to tackle.

The nice thing about DDRM is it's making me wonder if a similar Cortex-M4 microcontroller could be adapted for patch memory and control for crOwBX in a redesigned interface. This is purely an academic exercise but who knows...
needspeed
ultravox wrote:
Looks like we all have a bit of a backlog. I have one TTSH on the bench, one waiting in line and an 8 voice crOwBX that I need to tackle.

The nice thing about DDRM is it's making me wonder if a similar Cortex-M4 microcontroller could be adapted for patch memory and control for crOwBX in a redesigned interface. This is purely an academic exercise but who knows...


8 voice crOwBX that is awesome!!!!!!!! Hey you have plenty of spare time, so go for Cortex-M4!!!!! as that would be quite an achievement and extension of the crOwBX LOL.........Steve
needspeed
A few more components to stuff and solder up a bunch already in there and done. Next is the Main board which looks like it will go fast.....Steve

ultravox
needspeed wrote:
ultravox wrote:
Looks like we all have a bit of a backlog. I have one TTSH on the bench, one waiting in line and an 8 voice crOwBX that I need to tackle.

The nice thing about DDRM is it's making me wonder if a similar Cortex-M4 microcontroller could be adapted for patch memory and control for crOwBX in a redesigned interface. This is purely an academic exercise but who knows...


8 voice crOwBX that is awesome!!!!!!!! Hey you have plenty of spare time, so go for Cortex-M4!!!!! as that would be quite an achievement and extension of the crOwBX LOL.........Steve


Thanks for the vote of confidence! hihi
Pando
whomper wrote:
Pando wrote:
Here's a breakdown of costs. If you order everything today you get:

So the question is how much is your time worth? Experienced person will probably take a straight 1-2 weeks (8+ hours per day) to assemble everything, and you'll probably go thru some frustrations along the process without a guaranteed success. But you'll save about $750.


More than value of time spent, its the sense of achievement of building and using such a great instrument. I've built and used most of my studio equipment, certainly the huge modular synth I own.

For me, making music with the stuff I build is the best. Only challenge is to make sure to spend time making music, because you get drawn so much to building stuff...


Well said. That's exactly why I chose the DIY version instead of getting the pre-built one. thumbs up
roglok
I just received a quote from Switronic - while the price for a T1000 switch cap is just US$0.05, the minimum order is 5,000 pieces for each white, yellow, green and grey. Minimum order for red and black is 1,000. I guess that exceeds demand... waah
needspeed
roglok wrote:
I just received a quote from Switronic - while the price for a T1000 switch cap is just US$0.05, the minimum order is 5,000 pieces for each white, yellow, green and grey. Minimum order for red and black is 1,000. I guess that exceeds demand... waah


Holy POOP that is unfortunate, but you tried......Steve
needspeed
Family photo time. Control board will show up for diner!!!!!!!!!

livewire
Sheesh! Some people have a lot of time on their hands. Are you retired? How does it sound? lol Rockin' Banana! screaming goo yo Rockin' Banana! screaming goo yo Rockin' Banana! screaming goo yo
Jruss993
needspeed wrote:
Family photo time. Control board will show up for diner!!!!!!!!!



Looks great Steve! Have you heard anything from Roman on the firmware?
livewire
My progress so far....."yawn" - six voice cards stuft full of 0805 capasaterz and 33k axial thingees.
needspeed
Jruss993 wrote:
needspeed wrote:
Family photo time. Control board will show up for diner!!!!!!!!!


Looks great Steve! Have you heard anything from Roman on the firmware?


Roman is on vacation until tomorrow and I know they are pushing hard to get the pre-builts shipped which are also dependent on firmware.

He said that he is hoping by Thursday to have a release ready, so we will see.

In the mean time, I will finish up the Control board today and start another Voice Card. Since without firmware the unit cannot be powered up much less make any sounds.

And livewire I am not retired at all, just able to work from home and also put a ton of hours into both because it is fun in a perverted kind of way!!!!.....Steve
needspeed
livewire wrote:
My progress so far....."yawn" - six voice cards stuft full of 0805 capasaterz and 33k axial thingees.


Good for you as that is a boat load of components already!!!!!!!!!
Pando
Got the DDRM boards, but no components yet from Synthcube.

Meanwhile I'll just tack them to my wall as a decoration... hmmm.....
needspeed
Pando wrote:
Got the DDRM boards, but no components yet from Synthcube.

Meanwhile I'll just tack them to my wall as a decoration... hmmm.....


Well they are quite beautiful to look at but I hope your parts come soon. Get the damned SMD caps ASAP they are cheap and you can start in a day or so.....Steve
Pando
needspeed wrote:
Get the damned SMD caps ASAP they are cheap and you can start in a day or so.....Steve


Yeah, I hear you, but no time right now. I have a method to put them in quick though, probably would take me less than an hour per vb.

I haven't heard any status updates from Synthcube, I know the sliders are b/o when I ordered but I think the rest were available then. Hopefully they can ship what they have.
KlangGenerator
My parcel is at german customs right now. thumbs up
needspeed
KlangGenerator wrote:
My parcel is at german customs right now. thumbs up


Great news I really want to see others get started on this project.......Steve
Techman
Both packages arrived in UK but still awaiting customs clearance.

Blackcorp since 20th Oct and Synthcube since 16th Oct sad banana
jim50hertz
7 days is a long wait, even for UK Customs. I feel your pain. I have a package arrived in the UK yesterday and has not even hit customs yet.
MikkelM
Techman wrote:
Both packages arrived in UK but still awaiting customs clearance.

Blackcorp since 20th Oct and Synthcube since 16th Oct sad banana


Hey Techman. I am about to order from synthcube, what postage did you choose to Europe. Priority mail or UPS?

Cheers.

Mikkel
Techman
MikkelM wrote:


Hey Techman. I am about to order from synthcube, what postage did you choose to Europe. Priority mail or UPS?


I chose whatever was cheaper, which probably explains why it’s still stuck in customs seriously, i just don't get it
ualslosar
I ordered the knob & 9mm Potenitiometer 10-100K linear from SmallBear from the BOM.

The knob shipped, but the payment for the pot was refunded without explanation (none that i could find).

- Does the SmallBear pot have a center detent, please?

This part below looks like it might be a suitable replacement if you can't get the part thru SmallBear:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-x-100K-OHM-Linear-Taper-Potentiometer-Round -Shaft-PCB-9mm-USA-Seller-Free-Ship/222584777427?epid=1559317158&hash= item33d3162ad3:g:gFUAAOSwstxVT9O4
needspeed
ualslosar wrote:
I ordered the knob & 9mm Potenitiometer 10-100K linear from SmallBear from the BOM.

The knob shipped, but the payment for the pot was refunded without explanation (none that i could find).

- Does the SmallBear pot have a center detent, please?

This part below looks like it might be a suitable replacement if you can't get the part thru SmallBear:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-x-100K-OHM-Linear-Taper-Potentiometer-Round -Shaft-PCB-9mm-USA-Seller-Free-Ship/222584777427?epid=1559317158&hash= item33d3162ad3:g:gFUAAOSwstxVT9O4


No it does not have a detent........Steve
ualslosar
No detent on the pot. Thanks for the info.

Larry
ualslosar
No issues with ordering the knob & 100K linear pot SmallBear per BOM.

They are good folks who refunded excessive S&H charges because I had placed 2 separate orders: 1 for the knob & 1 for the 100K pot.

Good guys at SmallBear for doing this.

- Again, no issues with ordering the knob & 100K linear pot SmallBear per BOM.

regards
Larry
whomper
needspeed wrote:
Family photo time. Control board will show up for diner!!!!!!!!!



WOW!!! Can't wait to build mine...

Very becoming alongside Blade Runner 2049 release!
Zifor
I am waiting on my boards , excited SlayerBadger! screaming goo yo w00t
needspeed
Well all the boards (only 1 voice board) are generally done so time to start putting it together and fire it up. Power supply is working perfectly......Steve

LED-man
Do you got the firmware ?
needspeed
PSU and Main board seems to be alive and STM32 can communicate with STLINK. I will finish up the control board and mate the two tonight!!!!!!!!


the bad producer
Nice one!

Out of interest, does the PSU feel sturdy enough only held/supported by the edge connector? I'm surprised there's no hardware to hold it in place, or maybe there is?
needspeed
the bad producer wrote:
Nice one!

Out of interest, does the PSU feel sturdy enough only held/supported by the edge connector? I'm surprised there's no hardware to hold it in place, or maybe there is?


Actually the edge connector has a lot of grip and the board holds well in place but I agree it should be affixed in some fashion as I can see a strong jolt potentially have it move downward.....Steve
Kipling
needspeed wrote:
the bad producer wrote:
Nice one!

Out of interest, does the PSU feel sturdy enough only held/supported by the edge connector? I'm surprised there's no hardware to hold it in place, or maybe there is?


Actually the edge connector has a lot of grip and the board holds well in place but I agree it should be affixed in some fashion as I can see a strong jolt potentially have it move downward.....Steve

From the photos, each of the daughter cards look to have plated mounting holes. Assuming they line up with each other and are at 0V, I would suggest that a long threaded rod and suitable spacers are fed through which would secure all the cards together with little chance of anything moving.
fuzzbass
Kipling wrote:
needspeed wrote:
the bad producer wrote:
Nice one!

Out of interest, does the PSU feel sturdy enough only held/supported by the edge connector? I'm surprised there's no hardware to hold it in place, or maybe there is?


Actually the edge connector has a lot of grip and the board holds well in place but I agree it should be affixed in some fashion as I can see a strong jolt potentially have it move downward.....Steve

From the photos, each of the daughter cards look to have plated mounting holes. Assuming they line up with each other and are at 0V, I would suggest that a long threaded rod and suitable spacers are fed through which would secure all the cards together with little chance of anything moving.


Pretty sure that is where the 25mm spacers in the BOM go.
fuzzbass
needspeed wrote:


I would get those heat sinks on before powering up again.
needspeed
fuzzbass wrote:
Kipling wrote:
needspeed wrote:
the bad producer wrote:
Nice one!

Out of interest, does the PSU feel sturdy enough only held/supported by the edge connector? I'm surprised there's no hardware to hold it in place, or maybe there is?


Actually the edge connector has a lot of grip and the board holds well in place but I agree it should be affixed in some fashion as I can see a strong jolt potentially have it move downward.....Steve

From the photos, each of the daughter cards look to have plated mounting holes. Assuming they line up with each other and are at 0V, I would suggest that a long threaded rod and suitable spacers are fed through which would secure all the cards together with little chance of anything moving.


Pretty sure that is where the 25mm spacers in the BOM go.


Interesting indeed!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
needspeed
Well when the firmware is released I hope I hear something!!!!!!!!!!!! Boot loader installed on the ARM chip so I have some snow flakes on the display

Jruss993
Welp, just did one voice board's 0805's. Took me about an hour. Shouldn't have had so much coffee today, but aside from that it was pretty straightforward!
Pando
Note to self: for the slider board, solder all components except the sliders, clean the board of flux, then install the sliders smile
whyfarer
Boards are in! They look great. Just to be be clear, the PCB kit should contain: 1 frontpanel board, 1 motherboard (#221), 8 voice boards, 1 power board, and 1 I/O board? I also received a tiny little PCB piece not much bigger than the footprint of a pot or a jack. Is that part of the build?

Now just to wait for the Synthcube kit. From the DDRM page on their site:
Quote:
First out: group buy IC, Cincon and slider pot customers- many of these orders have shipped already and others are shipping in the next 1-3 weeks

Second out-- customers who placed a DDRM deposit and have ordered the 'Everything Else' kit using their deposit voucher

Third out-- customers who order a 'Full' or 'Everything Else' kit, in the order those orders are received


And it looks like with a 'full' kit that puts me in third out eek! . Anyone in the second or third shipping group get their kits yet? Anyone have timeline updates or is it still just late Oct or early Nov?
needspeed
whyfarer wrote:
Boards are in! They look great. Just to be be clear, the PCB kit should contain: 1 frontpanel board, 1 motherboard (#221), 8 voice boards, 1 power board, and 1 I/O board? I also received a tiny little PCB piece not much bigger than the footprint of a pot or a jack. Is that part of the build?

Now just to wait for the Synthcube kit. From the DDRM page on their site:
Quote:
First out: group buy IC, Cincon and slider pot customers- many of these orders have shipped already and others are shipping in the next 1-3 weeks

Second out-- customers who placed a DDRM deposit and have ordered the 'Everything Else' kit using their deposit voucher

Third out-- customers who order a 'Full' or 'Everything Else' kit, in the order those orders are received


And it looks like with a 'full' kit that puts me in third out eek! . Anyone in the second or third shipping group get their kits yet? Anyone have timeline updates or is it still just late Oct or early Nov?


You have all the parts and yes, that little thingy is for the Headphone Jack I am thinking, but will not know how it installs until the build guide comes out.....Steve
ultravox
It's here! Will have to wait to start the build until I'm back in the USA next week.

needspeed
ultravox wrote:
It's here! Will have to wait to start the build until I'm back in the USA next week.


That is awesome news travel safe and get ready for a heck of a project. Mine is ready to load firmware as pictured below so maybe it will work!?!?!?!?!?!

ffont
no news about the firmware yet? I got sunthcube parts, the pcbs are in spanish customs and apparently it takes some time to process. hopefully roman will release the build guide meanwhile as I don’t feel as brave as you do guys smile

thanks steve for all your posts and pictures. i couldn’t be more excited about doing this!
JanneI
My guess is that he's not going to release the firmware before the build guide is released.
ultravox
needspeed wrote:
ultravox wrote:
It's here! Will have to wait to start the build until I'm back in the USA next week.


That is awesome news travel safe and get ready for a heck of a project. Mine is ready to load firmware as pictured below so maybe it will work!?!?!?!?!?!



Excellent!
jimfowler
fuzzbass wrote:
Kipling wrote:
needspeed wrote:
the bad producer wrote:
Nice one!

Out of interest, does the PSU feel sturdy enough only held/supported by the edge connector? I'm surprised there's no hardware to hold it in place, or maybe there is?


Actually the edge connector has a lot of grip and the board holds well in place but I agree it should be affixed in some fashion as I can see a strong jolt potentially have it move downward.....Steve

From the photos, each of the daughter cards look to have plated mounting holes. Assuming they line up with each other and are at 0V, I would suggest that a long threaded rod and suitable spacers are fed through which would secure all the cards together with little chance of anything moving.


Pretty sure that is where the 25mm spacers in the BOM go.


Some cards are 20mm apart and some are 25mm so I’m pretty sure that you are right. Odd thing is the plated mounting holes are 3mm on the voice cards but the holes on the power board are 2.5mm. So you can have some slop and use the 2.5mm spacers or drill out the power board holes and use 3mm spacers. Not necessarily recommending the latter but that’s what I’ll probably do as I’m a little neurotic about shit being uniform.
needspeed
So has anyone else made any progress would love to see how the rest of you folks are progressing......Steve
fuzzbass
needspeed wrote:
So has anyone else made any progress would love to see how the rest of you folks are progressing......Steve


I have Mouser parts backordered until April. DG403DJ-E3-WTF? I guess I could have avoided this but then there is my backlog to consider... By the time I build mine, everyone else will be building the expander.
LED-man
fuzzbass wrote:
needspeed wrote:
So has anyone else made any progress would love to see how the rest of you folks are progressing......Steve


I have Mouser parts backordered until April. DG403DJ-E3-WTF? I guess I could have avoided this but then there is my backlog to consider... By the time I build mine, everyone else will be building the expander.


https://www.tme.eu/gb/details/dg403dj/analog-multiplexers-and-switches  /vishay/dg403dj-e3/
needspeed
LED-man wrote:
fuzzbass wrote:
needspeed wrote:
So has anyone else made any progress would love to see how the rest of you folks are progressing......Steve


I have Mouser parts backordered until April. DG403DJ-E3-WTF? I guess I could have avoided this but then there is my backlog to consider... By the time I build mine, everyone else will be building the expander.


https://www.tme.eu/gb/details/dg403dj/analog-multiplexers-and-switches  /vishay/dg403dj-e3/


Yes I am thinking Tony is making excuses. He sure can build a mean TTSH, but the DDRM is just a bridge too far!!!!!!!!!!!!!
KlangGenerator
LED-man wrote:


https://www.tme.eu/gb/details/dg403dj/analog-multiplexers-and-switches  /vishay/dg403dj-e3/


Also ordered mine there. So much cheaper!
nikbee
for those with the synthcube kit:

on the MAIN board: R74 states 2K on BOM, but the kit places a 2K resistor on R72, which should be 51K.

did roman release gerber files? i'll need to remove my R72, but now i can't find it d'oh!

edit: or can anyone here with a clean board just point me to R72?
needspeed
nikbee wrote:
for those with the synthcube kit:

on the MAIN board: R74 states 2K on BOM, but the kit places a 2K resistor on R72, which should be 51K.

did roman release gerber files? i'll need to remove my R72, but now i can't find it d'oh!

edit: or can anyone here with a clean board just point me to R72?


Only follow the BOM from Roman. SynthCube did a great job but I would not follow the labeling on the bags even though it is generally right but it has errors as I have found. Only build from Romans BOM........Steve
ultravox
fuzzbass wrote:
needspeed wrote:
So has anyone else made any progress would love to see how the rest of you folks are progressing......Steve


I have Mouser parts backordered until April. DG403DJ-E3-WTF? I guess I could have avoided this but then there is my backlog to consider... By the time I build mine, everyone else will be building the expander.


Got mine from Allied but it looks like it may be cheaper to go with the other link. https://www.alliedelec.com/siliconix-vishay-dg403dj-e3/70026037/
ultravox
For Mouser backorders, here's where I sourced parts with long lead times:

Rocker Switch DM22J12S205Q > Digi-Key

Analog Switch DG403DJ-E3 > Allied Electronics

Heat Sink M-C092 > Ordered Heatsink Kit 418-MC092HEATSINKKIT from Mouser

Slide Switch EG2201B > Ordered EG2201 & EG2301B from Mouser and reconfigured to make EG2201B.

8MHz Crystal HC49US-8.000MABJ-UB > Digi-Key under part number HC-49/U-S8000000ABJB

1uF Caps UVP1H010MDD1TD > Digi-Key

560pF Caps FG28C0G1H561JNT00 > Ordered FK28C0G1H561J from Digi-Key. FG caps use Halogen free coating. FK caps use Halogen in the coating.

390 ohm Resistors 271-390-RC > Mammoth Electronics: http://scund.bojht.servertrust.com/1-4-Watt-1-Metal-Film-Xicon-Resisto rs-p/110-271-rc.htm

1.8K ohm Resistors 271-1.8K-RC > Mammoth Electronics: http://scund.bojht.servertrust.com/1-4-Watt-1-Metal-Film-Xicon-Resisto rs-p/110-271-rc.htm
needspeed
So I figured there is nothing to loose by hooking up to a test pad of OSC 1 Saw and see what happens, even without the F word. Phone video, so no correlation to what it really sounds like but my DDRM has made its first sound!!!!!!!! Funny waveshape but at least it is a sound......Steve

DDRMs First Sound

Pando
needspeed wrote:
So I figured there is nothing to loose by hooking up to a test pad of OSC 1 Saw and see what happens, even without the F word. Phone video, so no correlation to what it really sounds like but my DDRM has made its first sound!!!!!!!! Funny waveshape but at least it is a sound......Steve

DDRMs First Sound


Maybe you built a drum machine? lol
roman_f
1) this is a final version of a bootloader (please upzip first) - feel free to flash it
after you're done - power up with shift key being hold, it will boot as a flash device mode, usb logo will appear

connect the usb port to your computer (16pin ribbon should be connected too), Deckard's will mount as USB thumb drive

you need to format it as FAT32, this is where you put firmware file and preset files later

we're making a final beta-test of a firmware this tuesday 31st - some changes are:

- sustain I/II modes
- custom time ranges for EGs and LFO
- microtuning
- staccato/legato modes for MONO/UNISSON, note priority may also be adjusted
- each preset now holds all the major settings (voice mode, custom timings etc)

2) i'm working on a build guide and schematics, please give me a bit of time.

thanks everyone!
Roman
roman_f
fuzzbass wrote:
needspeed wrote:


I would get those heat sinks on before powering up again.


heatsinks are optional - it's better to have them on, but nothing will happen if they are not installed
needspeed
roman_f wrote:
1) this is a final version of a bootloader (please upzip first) - feel free to flash it
after you're done - power up with shift key being hold, it will boot as a flash device mode, usb logo will appear

connect the usb port to your computer (16pin ribbon should be connected too), Deckard's will mount as USB thumb drive

you need to format it as FAT32, this is where you put firmware file and preset files later

we're making a final beta-test of a firmware this tuesday 31st - some changes are:

- sustain I/II modes
- custom time ranges for EGs and LFO
- microtuning
- staccato/legato modes for MONO/UNISSON, note priority may also be adjusted
- each preset now holds all the major settings (voice mode, custom timings etc)

2) i'm working on a build guide and schematics, please give me a bit of time.

thanks everyone!
Roman


Thank you so much Roman and team. Look forward to Tuesday and wish you guys the best putting finishing touches on the Firmware.

Also, as to heat-sinks, I have only been powering on for a short time to test and then powering down, so the DC-DC converters never get more than warm. In addition, with only 1 voice card, the PSU is not under full load......Steve
ffont
Hi all,
Got news from customs and hopefully my PCBs will be here early next week smile
In the meantime I'll finish preparing my tools and stuff to start building. I'm almost total newbie so I'll have to buy some stuff. I wanted to ask you for advice on a number of things:

- Solder diameter: I guess I should buy two types of solder, one thinner for the SMD caps and one for the other components. Suggestions on the sizes?

- PCB holder: As most of you I only have 2 hands, so I imagine I'll need something to hold the PCB's while I'm soldering right? Do you use one? Any recommendations?

- I'll also need to buy a pen flux and something to clean the flux. I guess many combinations can work here. What would you recommend?

- As per the soldering station I'll buy one with adjustable temperature, but should I have different tips for the soldering iron? Or one general-purpose size will work?

Thank you very much for your time answering this newbie questions smile I know I might be asking some things which do not make sense, if that is the case just let me know.

And finally, I know this is going to be hard for me, but I don't mind spending a lot of time with it. I understand DDream as a long term project for me so I hope eventually I'll get it working (probably needing your help as well). I'm not afraid! (should I be?)


Rockin' Banana!
Pando
I have a number of years of heavy ET and EE experience (including stuffing and soldering boards in a manufacturing plant 8 hours a day), but that was 25 years ago, and my eyesight has slightly changed. I can tell that it would be a challenge for me. So let me offer some advice:

Regardless of what tools you use, the most important thing is the soldering technique. If you have never soldered before, PLEASE, PLEASE practice on some throwaway pieces of double-sided PCBs before attempting to solder the DDRM. Soldering single-sided boards (like the prototype boards you see everywhere) is different than soldering double-sided, plated thru hole boards like the DDRM - the solder must flow properly to fill the hole completely.

There are many examples of how to solder on the web, including youtube, but hands-on practice is a must.

How your solder joints turn out is absolutely critical to the operation and to the longevity of your instrument. You do not want to have cold solder joints, solder blobs, too much or too little solder, etc., etc., as it only takes a single bad joint, invisible to the eye, to completely screw up your project, and it will be a nightmare to track down where it is. Note that you have some 10,000+ solder joints to deal with!

So I will reiterate again - practice, practice, practice. It will take some time to master this craft. Don't jump into soldering the DDRM without any practice. That will be disastrous.

Also, learn to handle and take care of the soldering iron, including proper soldering iron cleaning techniques, as you MUST keep the iron tip completely clean and shiny when soldering EVERY joint (look at the image below). This takes diligence and is easy to overlook. Experienced soldering techs clean the tip between every joint (a quick swipe on a wet sponge or brass curls will do). Have a solder wick handy that allows you to remove excess solder if needed. Remember, you are dealing with liquid metal that has a mind of its own due to gravity, capillary action, and surface tension. You must have steady hands, good eyesight, good lighting, and patience. You cannot do this in a hurry.

Here is a link to a good soldering tutorial:
https://www2.le.ac.uk/colleges/medbiopsych/facilities-and-services/cbs  /bmjw/soldering-tutorial



Pando
Also, learn resistor color codes. Chances are you will put a resistor in the wrong place somewhere.

While resistors can be inserted either way, placing them consistently with the color bands in one direction would make your boards appear more professional and will greatly help troubleshooting.

Same with unpolarized capacitors as well - insert them so that the label sides are facing consistently. Polarized caps of course need to be inserted properly and you don't have a choice there.

Kipling
I use a Weller ESF-120ESD PCB stand which opens out to a max of 235mm. With some longer 12mm diameter rods (400 - 500mm) it can go larger, but there’s a limit to how far the component holding arm can stretch, thought that could be extended as well if needed.

Tip: Farnell has these at two different prices, £49 and £93(ish). Buy the £49 one, order code 2292007. It seems to be £93 or thereabouts everywhere else.
Pando
A few more notes:

- Solder the 0805 SMT caps first. Use tweezers, or a small piece of blue masking tape to hold it in place. Solder one side. Remove tweezers or tape, solder the other side. Then touch up the first side.

- Next, solder your components, lowest profile first, probably resistors. This will ensure that the components don't fall out when you stuff the components and turn the board upside down to solder. Even so, you may have to hold the resistor in place with your finger when you solder it on the other side. Careful not to burn your finger as it will get hot. I usually solder one leg, then heat it up again quickly while pressing the resistor into place with your finger, then solder the other leg, and then touch up the first again to ensure proper joint. It also helps to bend the resistor legs at a slight angle, just enough to prevent it from falling out, although this will make it more difficult to remove the resistor if you need to. But don't bend the legs at 90 degrees, this will make it difficult to cut them off and invite solder bridges.

- Chips and chip sockets - solder them one at a time. Place it properly with a correct orientation (double-check the notch), turn the board around while holding it with your finger. With the board flat on the desk, solder one leg only. Make sure the solder flows properly. Then, lift the board up, press it with your finger while heating up the single leg again, you'll feel it pop into place. Then solder all other legs and touch up the first. It's important to have the socket FLAT against the PCB. If it's elevated where it's riding on the legs, you can easily damage the board's traces when you press a chip into the socket!

I hope this helps.
needspeed
Ready for Firmware!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


needspeed
Whats up out there someone must be soldering something tonight!?!?!?!?!?!?!
Pando
needspeed wrote:
Whats up out there someone must be soldering something tonight!?!?!?!?!?!?!


Everyone's waiting for you to see if it starts smoking or not! lol
livewire
Needspeed's got a USB trident.....WooHoo! He's ready Freddy. However, you may want more than one voice card ready to plug into that thing. Part of the job of the fancy software is to assign voices. How are you gonna do that if they're not there? (yet)

I rested last night, after plugging away all day on stuffing resistors into voice cards. All eight are about 50% populated. Man those cards are packed full of ohms. Just sayin.
needspeed
livewire wrote:
Needspeed's got a USB trident.....WooHoo! He's ready Freddy. However, you may want more than one voice card ready to plug into that thing. Part of the job of the fancy software is to assign voices. How are you gonna do that if they're not there? (yet)

I rested last night, after plugging away all day on stuffing resistors into voice cards. All eight are about 50% populated. Man those cards are packed full of ohms. Just sayin.


The voice cards literally will suck the life out of you. I will be done with my second one in a couple of hours and ready to test.

I Will have at least 3 by tomorrow. So voice allocation can be proven!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Good for you on your progress.....Steve
needspeed
Pando wrote:
needspeed wrote:
Whats up out there someone must be soldering something tonight!?!?!?!?!?!?!


Everyone's waiting for you to see if it starts smoking or not! lol


AT this point if it was going to smoke it would have smoked. Everything is running fine with not hot components and my voice card is putting out wave forms........Steve
Jruss993
Heading to the shop to put in a solid couple of hours on the rest of the 0805 components. Expecting the synthcube kit to arrive today!!!
ffont
Thank you very much pando and kipling for your advice! I’ll definitely practice my soldering on a test board before jumping to ddream. Another question I have is how to go about trimming component leads. I guess you do it after soldering the component, but can’t this “break” the solder joint?

I’ll search for some videos in youtube but still I’ll be happy to read your opinions. Thanks!
Pando
ffont wrote:
Another question I have is how to go about trimming component leads. I guess you do it after soldering the component, but can’t this “break” the solder joint?


Yes, after soldering them. Just cut them with small wire cutters as close as possible to the solder joint. It's actually really easy. It won't harm the joint if it's soldered properly and the thru-hole is filled completely.

Note that the solder joint should be cone-shaped, like a volcano. You will need to cut the lead at the top of the mound, perhaps just slightly into the solder. When properly soldered, it would be really tough to cut it in the wrong place, as the cone-shaped solder joint will guide the cutters properly.

If you have circular solder blobs instead, you will damage the board if you cut too closely.
needspeed
Well the time everyone has been waiting for is here!!!!!!!!! Forgive the poor playing on my part but just 1 voice this is the most remarkable instrument. Just a preset no changes on my part. This is a GoPro video which does not do the sound justice. I will run it into my mixer next and record from there. Must finish a second voice card NOW!!!!!!!!!! Get excited folks this is going to be epic......Steve


DDRM Take 1

fuzzbass
I hear a unicorn.
fuzzbass
roman_f wrote:


heatsinks are optional - it's better to have them on, but nothing will happen if they are not installed


I just said that so you would respond and I could look upon your awesome avatar.
needspeed
fuzzbass wrote:
I hear a unicorn.


For a short while I have a unicorn!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
needspeed
fuzzbass wrote:
roman_f wrote:


heatsinks are optional - it's better to have them on, but nothing will happen if they are not installed


I just said that so you would respond and I could look upon your awesome avatar.


She is the cutest thing ever and she is so in love with me!!!!!!!!!!!!
J3RK
needspeed wrote:
fuzzbass wrote:
I hear a unicorn.


For a short while I have a unicorn!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


Well, you'll have a multicorn soon, and those are better sometimes.
sduck
Excellent!

Just got my pcbs today, finally. Here's my scans - my scanner is ancient and not very good, so the big pcbs don't sit flat, so if someone gets an urge to stitch them together it's going to take some work.
ratsnake
kind of a want a hardcover book of these threads/build stories/tips and some background on roman tbh
ultravox
sduck wrote:
Excellent!

Just got my pcbs today, finally. Here's my scans - my scanner is ancient and not very good, so the big pcbs don't sit flat, so if someone gets an urge to stitch them together it's going to take some work.


Nice work as always!
needspeed
ultravox wrote:
sduck wrote:
Excellent!

Just got my pcbs today, finally. Here's my scans - my scanner is ancient and not very good, so the big pcbs don't sit flat, so if someone gets an urge to stitch them together it's going to take some work.


Nice work as always!


So sduck gets an Excellent for taking scans and I don't get as much as a small fruit basket for building the damned thing!!!!!!!!!!! Mr. Green Mr. Green Mr. Green
sduck
hey hey hey my "Excellent" was aimed at you! Looking forward to getting going on this - have to get this synthi going first though.
needspeed
sduck wrote:
hey hey hey my "Excellent" was aimed at you! Looking forward to getting going on this - have to get this synthi going first though.


So no fruit basket????? cry cry cry Thanks very much sduck and look forward to see/hearing your synthi. I must be brain dead at this point as I completely misunderstood your post.......Steve
ultravox
needspeed wrote:
ultravox wrote:
sduck wrote:
Excellent!

Just got my pcbs today, finally. Here's my scans - my scanner is ancient and not very good, so the big pcbs don't sit flat, so if someone gets an urge to stitch them together it's going to take some work.


Nice work as always!


So sduck gets an Excellent for taking scans and I don't get as much as a small fruit basket for building the damned thing!!!!!!!!!!! Mr. Green Mr. Green Mr. Green


Gaff: "You've done a man's job, sir! I guess you're through, huh?"
Deckard: "Finished."
thumbs up
needspeed
ultravox wrote:
needspeed wrote:
ultravox wrote:
sduck wrote:
Excellent!

Just got my pcbs today, finally. Here's my scans - my scanner is ancient and not very good, so the big pcbs don't sit flat, so if someone gets an urge to stitch them together it's going to take some work.


Nice work as always!


So sduck gets an Excellent for taking scans and I don't get as much as a small fruit basket for building the damned thing!!!!!!!!!!! Mr. Green Mr. Green Mr. Green


Gaff: "You've done a man's job, sir! I guess you're through, huh?"
Deckard: "Finished."
thumbs up


6 more voice cards to go second voice card has issue with OSC B so troubleshoot later today at this point but I figured it could not go perfect for me. But another few days and it will be done done.....Steve
fuzzbass
sduck wrote:
Excellent!

Just got my pcbs today, finally. Here's my scans - my scanner is ancient and not very good, so the big pcbs don't sit flat, so if someone gets an urge to stitch them together it's going to take some work.


Thank you sduck. Your old scanner is still better than mine for doing oversized work. Mine has a plastic bezel around it that makes it impossible to get a clear image of oversized items.
livewire
Thanks sduck, they're much better than my cell scans. Oh, and I like your spacey cat! How are the "alien eyes" working for you? I tried them, haven't found my "happy place" yet, have gone back to my trusty gooseneck magnifier.

And a SHOUT OUT TO NEEDSPEED!
Thank you for posting your REAL Demo. Where do I send the fruitcake? I see a lot of synthesized potential there!!! I like your cat too. And Roman's.
needspeed
livewire wrote:
Thanks sduck, they're much better than my cell scans. Oh, and I like your spacey cat! How are the "alien eyes" working for you? I tried them, haven't found my "happy place" yet, have gone back to my trusty gooseneck magnifier.

And a SHOUT OUT TO NEEDSPEED!
Thank you for posting your REAL Demo. Where do I send the fruitcake? I see a lot of synthesized potential there!!! I like your cat too. And Roman's.


Thanks livewire, I am close to a second voice card but having issues with OSCb. I will fix or build another quick so I can make a better demo
the bad producer
Great vid needspeed! Is that without the firmware, or...?!

I've just got the PCBs today, the Voice cards sort of remind me of Jurgen Haible's projects "hmm, how many resistors of different values can I squeeze onto one PCB".... hihi And there are 8 on each DD.... help
needspeed
the bad producer wrote:
Great vid needspeed! Is that without the firmware, or...?!

I've just got the PCBs today, the Voice cards sort of remind me of Jurgen Haible's projects "hmm, how many resistors of different values can I squeeze onto one PCB".... hihi And there are 8 on each DD.... help


No firmware, no DDRM. Roman decided I was worthy of being a beta until release which should be any day now.

The voice cards will suck the life out of you and I am not kidding. I finished my second one last night, and 1 voice was good and the other would not calibrate.

No schematics yet, so visually and very detailed I might add, compared working board to non-working board and found 2 misplaced resistors.

Changed that out and some chips but still not working. I may put that card aside and build another, which may be easier than any diagnostic without the schematics........Steve
the bad producer
Ah, cool! Yeah, I did wonder about the firmware... I'm a way aways from that at the mo though, I must say... Good luck with the fault finding, that sure isn't fun!
needspeed
the bad producer wrote:
Ah, cool! Yeah, I did wonder about the firmware... I'm a way aways from that at the mo though, I must say... Good luck with the fault finding, that sure isn't fun!


Agree that faults are no fun, but this is a massive project and we are human, so it will happen and I never give up, so this DDRM will have all 8 voices gosh darned it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Jruss993
Finished the psu and Output boards this morning. Pulled a major dumbass move on one of the voice boards. I used some leftover 0805s from a previous project while I awaited parts, and filled a voice board with them. I just realized they were 10% not 5%. Is this a deal breaker? Will I have to rework the whole board? Yuuuuuck cry
livewire
Without a schematic, ima gonna throw a guess and say it should not matter at all, as long as the caps aren't used in accurate timing circuits. I believe these 0805 caps are there as bypass capacitors for filtering transients and providing clean power to avoid glitches on the i.c. power inputs and are not really required to have a tight tolerance. Heck, Roman said that you could probably get away without using them at all, but he would not recommend it.
Jruss993
livewire wrote:
Without a schematic, ima gonna throw a guess and say it should not matter at all, as long as the caps aren't used in accurate timing circuits. I believe these 0805 caps are there as bypass capacitors for filtering transients and providing clean power to avoid glitches on the i.c. power inputs and are not really required to have a tight tolerance. Heck, Roman said that you could probably get away without using them at all, but he would not recommend it.


Thank you! I kind of figured in this application it wasn't the end of the world.
fuzzbass
Jruss993 wrote:
Finished the psu and Output boards this morning. Pulled a major dumbass move on one of the voice boards. I used some leftover 0805s from a previous project while I awaited parts, and filled a voice board with them. I just realized they were 10% not 5%. Is this a deal breaker? Will I have to rework the whole board? Yuuuuuck cry


Worry not. These are all decoupling caps for the ICs. Anything 10n to 1u is fine for them. Sometimes they are not needed at all.
Jruss993
fuzzbass wrote:
Jruss993 wrote:
Finished the psu and Output boards this morning. Pulled a major dumbass move on one of the voice boards. I used some leftover 0805s from a previous project while I awaited parts, and filled a voice board with them. I just realized they were 10% not 5%. Is this a deal breaker? Will I have to rework the whole board? Yuuuuuck cry


Worry not. These are all decoupling caps for the ICs. Anything 10n to 1u is fine for them. Sometimes they are not needed at all.


Such a relief!
whyfarer
Just got my kit shipment notification from Synthcube! Maybe I'll be building this weekend applause
roglok
Has anyone noticed the little glitch on the front panels yet? The lowest position for these three parameters:

RESH LPF and RESL

should say LOW, but it says 0.

MY ASS IS BLEEDING

Not sure if this has been fixed on production panels. No big thing either way... jus sayin...
weedywhizz
Anyone interested in DD slider cap kits ?
17,50€ incl. VAT (VAT deduction for non EU customers).

Cheers
Steffen
fuzzbass
needspeed wrote:
the bad producer wrote:
Great vid needspeed! Is that without the firmware, or...?!

I've just got the PCBs today, the Voice cards sort of remind me of Jurgen Haible's projects "hmm, how many resistors of different values can I squeeze onto one PCB".... hihi And there are 8 on each DD.... help


No firmware, no DDRM. Roman decided I was worthy of being a beta until release which should be any day now.

The voice cards will suck the life out of you and I am not kidding. I finished my second one last night, and 1 voice was good and the other would not calibrate.

No schematics yet, so visually and very detailed I might add, compared working board to non-working board and found 2 misplaced resistors.

Changed that out and some chips but still not working. I may put that card aside and build another, which may be easier than any diagnostic without the schematics........Steve


Have you tried (brainstorming here):
- put the second built voice card in slot 2, the original one in slot 1, and change the voice count to to 2 - retest.

- pull all chips from card 2 and test resistance from power rails to ground. Look for R<47.

- pull all chips from card 1 and put in card 2 and retest. Works? Move half of them back, and divide the problem in half.
weedywhizz
Deckards Dream fader cap kits can be preordered here:

https://www.samodular.com/product/switchcaps/

Select the kit from the dropdown menu. Around 20% cheaper than from the BOM source.
The grey and green caps will arrive in 3-4 weeks. The other colors are in stock.

Cheers
Steffen
ffont
Hi,
I'm ordering the power brick from mouser (https://eu.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=TRH70A120-12E01-Lev el-VIvirtualkey14670000virtualkey418-TRH70A12012E01VI) but, if I understand correctly, it will take 13 weeks to have it back on stock. Is there any other place where I could buy that? Or use another power brick?

Thanks
Jruss993
ffont wrote:
Hi,
I'm ordering the power brick from mouser (https://eu.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=TRH70A120-12E01-Lev el-VIvirtualkey14670000virtualkey418-TRH70A12012E01VI) but, if I understand correctly, it will take 13 weeks to have it back on stock. Is there any other place where I could buy that? Or use another power brick?

Thanks


Check out Sager electronics!
Jruss993
ffont wrote:
Hi,
I'm ordering the power brick from mouser (https://eu.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=TRH70A120-12E01-Lev el-VIvirtualkey14670000virtualkey418-TRH70A12012E01VI) but, if I understand correctly, it will take 13 weeks to have it back on stock. Is there any other place where I could buy that? Or use another power brick?

Thanks


They have them in stock;
https://power.sager.com/trh70a120-12e01-level-vi-5249779.html?fromSage r=1
stevepringle
ffont wrote:
Hi,
I'm ordering the power brick from mouser (https://eu.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=TRH70A120-12E01-Lev el-VIvirtualkey14670000virtualkey418-TRH70A12012E01VI) but, if I understand correctly, it will take 13 weeks to have it back on stock. Is there any other place where I could buy that? Or use another power brick?

Thanks


I have this on backorder from Mouser, they are due in 2 weeks:

923-96PSAA84W12V1

Steve
ffont
Thanks steve!
And will this work just as nicely? I mean, is there any reason why I should prefer the cincon?

Cheers,

frederic
stevepringle
Hi Frederic,

I'd asked Roman the same question and he said:

yes - it will work just fine
anything 12V 2.5mm barrel above 4A will be ok

Hope that helps!
weedywhizz
Grey and green colors for the DD cap kits are confirmed by the manufacturer to be here in 3 weeks applause
https://www.samodular.com/product/switchcaps/
LED-man
Yesterday night was a discussion about the DDRM with a very skilled technician and me.
I got the Info, that the TL074s isn’t good due to phase issues (for audio) -solution: use non phase opamps here.
It’s better to use 0.1% non magnetic metalfilm resistors(brasscore) for CV and tuning.
Don’t use the electrolyte caps in Audiopath, use 1% filmcaps or C0g caps.

I can’t analyze this without the schematics...
oldenjon
Anybody found a replacement for the fan mounting pins?
The seller apparently doesn't ship to the US.
livewire
oldenjon wrote:
Anybody found a replacement for the fan mounting pins?
The seller apparently doesn't ship to the US.


Try this ebay number: 253227327048

Linky: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/253227327048?rmvSB=true
jimi23
ffont wrote:
Hi,
I'm ordering the power brick from mouser (https://eu.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=TRH70A120-12E01-Lev el-VIvirtualkey14670000virtualkey418-TRH70A12012E01VI) but, if I understand correctly, it will take 13 weeks to have it back on stock. Is there any other place where I could buy that? Or use another power brick?

Thanks


The same model brick with a right angle connector should still be in stock at mouser, there were plenty 2 weeks ago when I bought mine
needspeed
per Roman on FB: Happy to say that we made a last minute firmware tweak - envelopes and LFO's min/max times now may be adjusted in the menu settings, getting it way beyond the original CS sound. and this may be stored individually for each preset!
Will run one more beta-test on Sunday, then hope to post the firmware on Monday.
LED-man
About the SMT capacitor soldering,
500 caps in 2,5 hours soldered, by hand with tweezers and leadfree 0,25mm and 0,5mm soldercore with a JBC Station.
The pcb ENIG solderpads are very good.
whyfarer
Jumping on the power supply question train.

As others have suggested, this option from mouser is out of stock:
https://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=TRH70A120-12E01-Lev %20el-VIvirtualkey14670000virtualkey418-TRH70A12012E01VI

BUT, there's a very similar product that is IN stock:
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Cincon/TRH70A120-02E01-Level-VI/? qs=sGAEpiMZZMs1jjUfAXmXyrFWf%2fJhuYWUG2Kyw7SVbBkKtQrzi2c52A%3d%3d

From a quick peek at the specs docs (I'm no pro) it looks like the difference between the TRH70A120-12E01 and the TRH70A120-02E01 is only in 'DC Cable Length and Type'.
The 12E01 has a 1220mm with Ferrite Core DC cable whereas the 02E01 has (just) a 1220 mm DC cable (no ferrite core).

Are there other differences I'm missing? Does the ferrite core in the cable matter? I'm assuming someone might want it to smooth whatever is running through the DC cable?

Lastly, is there anything I need to be aware of in sourcing my st-link? Will this one do the job: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/STMicroelectronics/ST-LINK-V2/?qs =H4BOwPtf9MC1sDQ8j3cy4w%3D%3D?

Thanks! I'm very much looking forwards to digging into this project Rockin' Banana!
needspeed
LED-man wrote:
About the SMT capacitor soldering,
500 caps in 2,5 hours soldered, by hand with tweezers and leadfree 0,25mm and 0,5mm soldercore with a JBC Station.
The pcb ENIG solderpads are very good.


Awesome work. The PCBs really are very high quality for sure......Steve
satindas
needspeed wrote:
Ready for Firmware!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!




Is that display soldered in place ? Just wondering how you gauge the correct height on the pins. Can't find any info on this yet so wondering if I should wait for the build doc.
fuzzbass
oldenjon wrote:
Anybody found a replacement for the fan mounting pins?
The seller apparently doesn't ship to the US.


Check out Coolerguys for any kind of fan whatnots you need.
fuzzbass
LED-man wrote:
About the SMT capacitor soldering,
500 caps in 2,5 hours soldered, by hand with tweezers and leadfree 0,25mm and 0,5mm soldercore with a JBC Station.
The pcb ENIG solderpads are very good.


Hi Patrick. I decided yesterday to get the smd capacitors behind me. I think I have the same budget hot air station as you. I'm using lead free MG paste and the Magnum dispenser. I got all 668 caps installed in about 3.5 hours.
fuzzbass
whyfarer wrote:
Lastly, is there anything I need to be aware of in sourcing my st-link? Will this one do the job: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/STMicroelectronics/ST-LINK-V2/?qs =H4BOwPtf9MC1sDQ8j3cy4w%3D%3D?


That is the actual real ST link so yes will work. Copies and hacks to avoid this full cost unit abound but I'm a newbie in this area so I can't recommend any of them.
needspeed
satindas wrote:

Is that display soldered in place ? Just wondering how you gauge the correct height on the pins. Can't find any info on this yet so wondering if I should wait for the build doc.



yes it is soldered in place AND
From FaceBook: Roman Filippov you need to use 5MM M2 standoffs for it
satindas
needspeed wrote:
satindas wrote:

Is that display soldered in place ? Just wondering how you gauge the correct height on the pins. Can't find any info on this yet so wondering if I should wait for the build doc.



yes it is soldered in place AND
From FaceBook: Roman Filippov you need to use 5MM M2 standoffs for it


Ta thumbs up
livewire
needspeed wrote:
satindas wrote:

Is that display soldered in place ? Just wondering how you gauge the correct height on the pins. Can't find any info on this yet so wondering if I should wait for the build doc.



yes it is soldered in place AND
From FaceBook: Roman Filippov you need to use 5MM M2 standoffs for it


So where is this Facebook link overflowing with Roman's information that you (needspeed) keep referring to? The DD FB hasn't seen an entry since August and there is nothing in your page one ephemera listings. seriously, i just don't get it
sduck
https://www.facebook.com/groups/deckardsdream/
satindas
Somebody posted this pic to facebook.
I don't use facebook but was emailed this pic by my client.
To whoever posted it... if you catch this... Check IC2. I believe you have it installed backwards thumbs up
roman_f
satindas wrote:
Somebody posted this pic to facebook.
I don't use facebook but was emailed this pic by my client.
To whoever posted it... if you catch this... Check IC2. I believe you have it installed backwards thumbs up


yes, it's backwards
also 0R should be 22R
roman_f
i'm done with build guide pictures - will edit them today-tomorrow and post on a website
comments and description will take a few more days
needspeed
satindas wrote:
Somebody posted this pic to facebook.
I don't use facebook but was emailed this pic by my client.
To whoever posted it... if you catch this... Check IC2. I believe you have it installed backwards thumbs up


That would be me. Everything is working unless I am missing something as USB is fine, Midi is fine, Line out is fine, so if it is backward what would not work???????
sneak-thief
The 511-STMPS2171MTR is a power switch IC.

Either it's not doing it's job, it's fried and shorted, or by some coincidence the input voltage is connected to the out pin and is being passed to the ins.
needspeed
sneak-thief wrote:
The 511-STMPS2171MTR is a power switch IC.

Either it's not doing it's job, it's fried and shorted, or by some coincidence the input voltage is connected to the out pin and is being passed to the ins.


Yes I understand and its because I am not using it as a USB host so I have not noted the issue so will remove it today and order another one along with a list of fried pats from mouser!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Damned beveled edge chip marking gets me sometimes!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

As its been said why buy a built one when you can spend more doing it yourself........Steve
ultravox
roman_f wrote:
i'm done with build guide pictures - will edit them today-tomorrow and post on a website
comments and description will take a few more days


That's great news Roman. I haven't started building yet... I'm thinking the build guide will have a better methodology than how I'd go about it.
livewire
sduck wrote:
https://www.facebook.com/groups/deckardsdream/


Thanks sduck, i'm in.
DIY closed group, that explains it.
needspeed
livewire wrote:
sduck wrote:
https://www.facebook.com/groups/deckardsdream/


Thanks sduck, i'm in.
DIY closed group, that explains it.


It is easy to add you in and I would be happy to do that if you have not already requested access. Do you have an FB ID?????.......Steve
needspeed
DDRM car wreck airbags deployed only my finger got an owey!!!!!!! And my ARM chip is toasted.

This is so simple to do, I must tell you that I did it. The blue 44 pin headers I have, are not keyed(BAD) but the PCBs are(GOOD).

Well this leads to an issue in that you can accidentally insert a card into the header at the point that the PCB key is located thus the card will be shifted down my two positions.

This is very bad in any case and even worse when you insert your power board and literally fire up the power!!!!!!!!!!!!

We are human and no matter how methodical we are, be even more so. As I want to be the only one to make this mistake.

I will fix it and a large Mouser cart has been prepared for repair, but the simplest thing can and will result in calamity.........Steve

BTW it s OK to make fun of me, as long as you do not ever do this yourself!!!!!!!!!

ultravox
needspeed wrote:
DDRM car wreck airbags deployed only my finger got an owey!!!!!!! And my ARM chip is toasted.

This is so simple to do, I must tell you that I did it. The blue 44 pin headers I have, are not keyed(BAD) but the PCBs are(GOOD).

Well this leads to an issue in that you can accidentally insert a card into the header at the point that the PCB key is located thus the card will be shifted down my two positions.

This is very bad in any case and even worse when you insert your power board and literally fire up the power!!!!!!!!!!!!

We are human and no matter how methodical we are, be even more so. As I want to be the only one to make this mistake.

I will fix it and a large Mouser cart has been prepared for repair, but the simplest thing can and will result in calamity.........Steve

BTW it s OK to make fun of me, as long as you do not ever do this yourself!!!!!!!!!


This is unfortunate and mistakes do happen...and something very similar happened to me in US Navy radar lab back in the 80's. We were supposed to visually inspect all the circuit boards before we put power on. I saw a board was unseated and I had to jam it in hard to make it fit into the slot. The Navy instructors had flipped the board around in the radar trainer thinking it would be an obvious fix for the student - it wasn't and I F'd up the radar trainer!
needspeed
Thank you for relating your story. It generally is the simplest thing that will take you out, as there is no room for any error at all.

But gee wizz, this one error sure was costly. But DIY is a continuous learning experience in so many ways and I am so happy that I got it to work before I blew it up at least!!!!

Roman has been very kind and is helping me get it sorted out. Roman is the best!!!!!!!
livewire
needspeed wrote:
livewire wrote:
sduck wrote:
https://www.facebook.com/groups/deckardsdream/


Thanks sduck, i'm in.
DIY closed group, that explains it.


It is easy to add you in and I would be happy to do that if you have not already requested access. Do you have an FB ID?????.......Steve


Thanks Steve, somebody already opened the door for me.

Sorry to see your "major wreck". I wanna know how they're gonna do surgery on that ARM... hmmm.....
needspeed
livewire wrote:
needspeed wrote:
livewire wrote:
sduck wrote:
https://www.facebook.com/groups/deckardsdream/


Thanks sduck, i'm in.
DIY closed group, that explains it.


It is easy to add you in and I would be happy to do that if you have not already requested access. Do you have an FB ID?????.......Steve


Thanks Steve, somebody already opened the door for me.

Sorry to see your "major wreck". I wanna know how they're gonna do surgery on that ARM... hmmm.....


Rather that hope the rest of the chips are OK on the board, I am getting another from Roman and rebuilding the main board. Not in the mood to hunt down additional issues. It sucks but at least I know it will work......Steve
Pando
Wow Steve, so sorry to see that. Man... that was just the simplest mistake to make. So the headers are not keyed. Did you get them as part of the kit or just specced out yourself?

I hope you get that sorted out and the rest of the chips are ok. Let's hope the SMT DACs are good...

Did you see fireworks when you plugged it in?
needspeed
Pando wrote:
Wow Steve, so sorry to see that. Man... that was just the simplest mistake to make. So the headers are not keyed. Did you get them as part of the kit or just specced out yourself?

I hope you get that sorted out and the rest of the chips are ok. Let's hope the SMT DACs are good...

Did you see fireworks when you plugged it in?


No fireworks but that lovely smell of burnt
electronics!!!!!!!!!!!!

They are specified on the BOM as sourced from ebay as such. And SynthCube includes these also.

After I blew things up, Roman responded in the forthcoming build guide you can/need to modify the headers to form a key which makes sense now after the fact, but life is for learning.

I am getting a new main board from Roman and rebuilding it from there as who know what got fried......Steve
Jruss993
needspeed wrote:
DDRM car wreck airbags deployed only my finger got an owey!!!!!!! And my ARM chip is toasted.

This is so simple to do, I must tell you that I did it. The blue 44 pin headers I have, are not keyed(BAD) but the PCBs are(GOOD).

Well this leads to an issue in that you can accidentally insert a card into the header at the point that the PCB key is located thus the card will be shifted down my two positions.

This is very bad in any case and even worse when you insert your power board and literally fire up the power!!!!!!!!!!!!

We are human and no matter how methodical we are, be even more so. As I want to be the only one to make this mistake.

I will fix it and a large Mouser cart has been prepared for repair, but the simplest thing can and will result in calamity.........Steve

BTW it s OK to make fun of me, as long as you do not ever do this yourself!!!!!!!!!



That's really unfortunate. But kudos to Roman for helping you out. I'm going to wait on doing that sort of stuff until the build guide is published as there are just so many possible errors to make.
jimfowler


Well, after spending way too much time soldering way too many resistors I think I'm ready for some firmware. Fingers crossed no smoke comes out.

- Jim
ffont
@steve: wow thats unfortunate... anyway you’ll still have been the first to build it! and I’m sure you’ll fix it quick smile did you ever find out what was wrong with the second voice card?

@jim: looks amazing! looking forward for videos when firmware is released smile

I’m still waiting for my pcbs (still in spanish customs). meanwhile I’m practicing my soldering skills smile also I’ll wait for the build guide, hopefully roman will release it asap.

Btw, I tried to join the facebook group for builders, but I don’t have facebook account so I’m using my wife’s. I’m afraid her requests are not being accepted hehe. I don’t know who manages the list, but if you see som Anna trying to join please accept here smile

Looking forward to start!!
Eric the Red
jimfowler - Damn!! You are fast! I love watching you guys build these beasts.
ultravox
Searched Muffs and found the part number for the Card Edge Connector polarizing key: EDAC 338-240-328. In stock at Mouser, Digi-Key and others.



Jruss993
ultravox wrote:
Searched Muffs and found the part number for the Card Edge Connector polarizing key: EDAC 338-240-328. In stock at Mouser, Digi-Key and others.





That's awesome! Thanks!
needspeed
Jim she looks beautiful. I will see what Roman has to say about firmware.

Also, and I am sure you have already thought about this, test 1 voice card at a time in slot 1 which is if course the one farthest from the PSU.

Since calibration will calibrate from 1 -8 cards based on number of voices selected.

I would love to hear that all 8 calibrate perfectly and that we will hear your DDRM any day........Steve

And gee wiz wish I had those polarizing keys before I blew mine up ultravox. it is very easy to make the smallest of mistakes with the largest of consequences........Steve
ultravox
needspeed wrote:
And gee wiz wish I had those polarizing keys before I blew mine up ultravox. it is very easy to make the smallest of mistakes with the largest of consequences........Steve


In some industries warnings and cautions come about because something dire or expensive has happened, i.e. "do not eat desiccant", "do not operate above max load" or "keep fingers from impeller". The polarizing keyway issue should be placed boldly in the first post if its not there already.
needspeed
ultravox wrote:
needspeed wrote:
And gee wiz wish I had those polarizing keys before I blew mine up ultravox. it is very easy to make the smallest of mistakes with the largest of consequences........Steve


In some industries warnings and cautions come about because something dire or expensive has happened, i.e. "do not eat desiccant", "do not operate above max load" or "keep fingers from impeller". The polarizing keyway issue should be placed boldly in the first post if its not there already.


Could not agree more I will update with pics ASAP on first post. DONE and Done......Thanks......Steve
Tristos
Few questions:

Anybody the the correct size standoffs to use between the following:"

case >hardware board >main board

And also the ones to use to lock all voice cards together?


Also a long shot but does anybody have 4 spare x DPDT SLIDE SWITCH 612-EG2201B

Thanks

thumbs up
Pando
Tristos wrote:
And also the ones to use to lock all voice cards together?


Probably equals the spacing of the headers minus the thickness of the board itself (whatever that is, I haven't started building yet)...
Pando
needspeed wrote:
ultravox wrote:
needspeed wrote:
And gee wiz wish I had those polarizing keys before I blew mine up ultravox. it is very easy to make the smallest of mistakes with the largest of consequences........Steve


In some industries warnings and cautions come about because something dire or expensive has happened, i.e. "do not eat desiccant", "do not operate above max load" or "keep fingers from impeller". The polarizing keyway issue should be placed boldly in the first post if its not there already.


Could not agree more I will update with pics ASAP on first post. DONE and Done......Thanks......Steve


The thing is - even with the polarizing key in place, you can STILL insert the card wrong if you rotate it 180 degrees and insert it the way you did. So you still have to be damn careful.
Tristos
Pando wrote:
Tristos wrote:
And also the ones to use to lock all voice cards together?


Probably equals the spacing of the headers minus the thickness of the board itself (whatever that is, I haven't started building yet)...


Yep silly question asking about those ones! was the hardware and main board I needed to know think sussed it now,
T
needspeed
Pando wrote:
needspeed wrote:
ultravox wrote:
needspeed wrote:
And gee wiz wish I had those polarizing keys before I blew mine up ultravox. it is very easy to make the smallest of mistakes with the largest of consequences........Steve


In some industries warnings and cautions come about because something dire or expensive has happened, i.e. "do not eat desiccant", "do not operate above max load" or "keep fingers from impeller". The polarizing keyway issue should be placed boldly in the first post if its not there already.


Could not agree more I will update with pics ASAP on first post. DONE and Done......Thanks......Steve


The thing is - even with the polarizing key in place, you can STILL insert the card wrong if you rotate it 180 degrees and insert it the way you did. So you still have to be damn careful.


Indeed, in the end nothing in life can be perfectly safe so you must always be on your guard and pay extreme attention to detail at all times as any laps can/will result in unfortunate consequences.......Steve
ffont
I finally got the PCBs! SlayerBadger!
No news about the build guide? Roman said he'd post pictures this week right? I could not join the facebook group so I don't know if conversations have been moved there...

Anyway, I still need some time to get more confident with the soldering so waiting some more days won't be a problem smile
captnapalm
via Roman on FB:

Firmware is online. Some of prebuilt units had a power sequencing problem (10bit DACs did not initiate sometimes), I'll update the BOM with 2 capacitor changes on the PSU board.

http://www.deckardsdream.com/build
needspeed
captnapalm wrote:
via Roman on FB:

Firmware is online. Some of prebuilt units had a power sequencing problem (10bit DACs did not initiate sometimes), I'll update the BOM with 2 capacitor changes on the PSU board.

http://www.deckardsdream.com/build


First post has been update with this information also.......Steve
ffont
Hi Steve,
Thanks for maintaining this!

The link you added for the "Build info and firmware" seems to be wrong. It should point to http://www.deckardsdream.com/build and it seems to point to some "facebook...bla..bla...http://www.deckardsdream.com/build". I guess this is because you copied the link from facebook.
needspeed
ffont wrote:
Hi Steve,
Thanks for maintaining this!

The link you added for the "Build info and firmware" seems to be wrong. It should point to http://www.deckardsdream.com/build and it seems to point to some "facebook...bla..bla...http://www.deckardsdream.com/build". I guess this is because you copied the link from facebook.


Fixed thanks for pointing that out......Steve
rutabaga40
Do those sockets for the multipin chips come with the Synthcube kit, or are they purchased separately. If so, is there info on here for what and where to order?
needspeed
rutabaga40 wrote:
Do those sockets for the multipin chips come with the Synthcube kit, or are they purchased separately. If so, is there info on here for what and where to order?


They come with the kit as I got them with mine.You also will see them on SynthCubes BOM if you go to the site and download it all the parts are there........Steve
jimfowler
It's working. Screen arrived damaged but I went ahead and installed it while I wait for a replacement.



Oscillator 1 on card 1 emits high pitch noise instead of in tune note. No time to mess around with it this morning but will look into it this evening.

*** FIXED *** Roman suggested moving cards around and calibrating again. So I swapped card 1 and 2, ran the calibration procedure and voila! Perhaps simply re-calibrating would have worked...

The sound demos don't do this thing justice. The sound is absolutely amazing.
Electric Druid
Just a note to say that Electric Druid has now started supplying synth IC kits for the Deckard's Dream. The package includes 60 x V2164, 17 x 3340 VCOs (your choice of Alfa, CoolAudio or CEM) and 1 x PentaNoise.

Chips are all in except for Alfa, which we're expecting in early December, but you can pre-order if you want. Details here:

http://electricdruid.net/product/deckards-dream-chip-set/

My apologies if this admittedly commercial message isn't appreciated. Just wanted to provide another option for EU builders.

Thanks,
Tom
needspeed
jimfowler wrote:
It's working. Screen arrived damaged but I went ahead and installed it while I wait for a replacement.



Oscillator 1 on card 1 emits high pitch noise instead of in tune note. No time to mess around with it this morning but will look into it this evening.

The sound demos don't do this thing justice. The sound is absolutely amazing.
Congratulations I could not be more happy for you.

I had the same problem on my first voice card also. I have not figured it out yet.

I built 4 cards so far before I blew it up, 2 of them worked perfectly one did what you discussed and on one the second OSC would only tune about halfway up and stop, so no notes would play above that note on OSC B.

No doubt, test 1 card at a time in slot 1 in isolation. Once you have a couple working, place them all in and calibrate them and the real magic happens.......Steve
jimfowler
I was going to ask if it was the same issue you had. Glad to know it is...this suggests it's not a build problem. As more get built and tested hopefully we can find and isolate these issues. Roman recommended swapping cards around and re-calibrating. I'll post results once I've had time to implement his suggestions. For reference, card 1 is the furthest from the PSU board.
needspeed
jimfowler wrote:
I was going to ask if it was the same issue you had. Glad to know it is...this suggests it's not a build problem. As more get built and tested hopefully we can find and isolate these issues. Roman recommended swapping cards around and re-calibrating. I'll post results once I've had time to implement his suggestions. For reference, card 1 is the furthest from the PSU board.


yes furthest opposite the PSU at the end. Set for 1 voice and calibrate one card at a time just to test in isolation from the others. Once you have two working in isolation then insert them and set to 2 voice and calibrate now you should have 2 perfect and tuned working voice cards and so on until you have 8......Steve

If you do not want to wait, I am happy to drop a new screen in the mail on Monday as I have extra. Just PM me
needspeed
PSU Board Changes. BOM is not updated but this is directly from Roman as follows:

C12 should be 1uf, c13 - 330uf

C13 increased delays the boot of +3.3v digital rail, c12 reduced makes 5v analog rail boot faster,
so, DACs start with no problem

Without change sometimes they don’t start, since digital 3.3v comes to DAC before 5v
It happened on 1/5 of built units
livewire
Please define "sac". hmmm.....
sduck
typo - meant dac (guessing)
needspeed
sduck wrote:
typo - meant dac (guessing)


Thats what I am thinking but did not want to editorialize his words.....Steve
satindas


All eight voices up and running. SlayerBadger!
The only problem I'm seeing at the moment is that with the Noise sliders all the way down the Noise does not turn completely off, (both layers). Adjusting the "NOISE" slider doesn't actually have much effect.
Also ; As I play consecutive notes the voices only cycle from 1 to 7 whereas if I play 2 notes repeatedly, the voices cycle 1+2, 3+4, 5+6, 7+8, as one would expect... anyone else seeing the same behaviour ?
ultravox
satindas wrote:

Also ; As I play consecutive notes the voices only cycle from 1 to 7 whereas if I play 2 notes repeatedly, the voices cycle 1+2, 3+4, 5+6, 7+8, as one would expect... anyone else seeing the same behaviour ?


I think I read on the Facebook group that it was programmed this way to mimic vintage behavior. I'll try to verify...
ultravox
Found the Facebook quote:

"I saw a DDream yt video where the roundrobin looked strange.Voice 1 retriggered until you played two or more voices simultaneously. Is it a setting for that? The CS-80 uses true roundrobin with a twist. Roundrobin on 7voices, but to have the 8 voice playing you need to keep holding voice 7, now the next voice will be 8"

Found this in the CS-80 service manual:

Happyanimal
ultravox wrote:
Found the Facebook quote:

"I saw a DDream yt video where the roundrobin looked strange.Voice 1 retriggered until you played two or more voices simultaneously. Is it a setting for that? The CS-80 uses true roundrobin with a twist. Roundrobin on 7voices, but to have the 8 voice playing you need to keep holding voice 7, now the next voice will be 8"

Found this in the CS-80 service manual:



This is what I remember from a random conversation as well- and I believe Roman was planning on implementing it in firmware. Wasn’t sure if it actually made it in for this release. Looks like that’s it though.
satindas
ultravox wrote:
Found the Facebook quote:

"I saw a DDream yt video where the roundrobin looked strange.Voice 1 retriggered until you played two or more voices simultaneously. Is it a setting for that? The CS-80 uses true roundrobin with a twist. Roundrobin on 7voices, but to have the 8 voice playing you need to keep holding voice 7, now the next voice will be 8"

Found this in the CS-80 service manual:



Excellent ! Many thanks for that Ultravox thumbs up
germainghys
If anybody needs these ...I have 10 sets in spare
PM me
fuzzbass
germainghys wrote:
If anybody needs these ...I have 10 sets in spare
PM me


In my haste buying these, I ordered nine units [of ten]. Now I have 90 of these connectors, 81 of of which I don't need. very frustrating
jimfowler
I noticed the same thing on mine so I asked Roman. He said "voice 8 activates only if #7 is active, same as in CS80". So yes, it is supposed to do that.
ffont
Hi guys,
I finally created a fb account only to be able to join the group.
Please whoever admins the group, please accept the request. The name of the account is “ti”. You might recognise me by the cat avatar and by the fact that I only like 1 page and that is deckard’s dream.

Thanks!
groove
fuzzbass wrote:
germainghys wrote:
If anybody needs these ...I have 10 sets in spare
PM me


In my haste buying these, I ordered nine units [of ten]. Now I have 90 of these connectors, 81 of of which I don't need. very frustrating


I very nearly did the same. Only a last second glance and sticker shock made me look twice and realize that I was about to order 100 of them.

Now you just have to build another 9 DDRMs.
ultravox
fuzzbass wrote:
germainghys wrote:
If anybody needs these ...I have 10 sets in spare
PM me


In my haste buying these, I ordered nine units [of ten]. Now I have 90 of these connectors, 81 of of which I don't need. very frustrating


I did the same with the 680pF VCO caps on the TTSH. I thought I was ordering 3 WIMA's but received 30! I guess I'm set for life. Mr. Green
satindas
Noise problem sorted SlayerBadger!

Pin 8 (GND) of IC55 (V2164) wasn't even touching the sides of the hole. "Like a cock in a shirt sleeve", you might say ( Not mine you understand hihi )

Found and sorted one other issue ... voice 8A sin wave was misbehaving but that was a pin bent under a chip. d'oh! First time for everything I guess.

Vid later.

And so to bed to dream of replicants.
Im done ! Dead Banana
Jruss993
fuzzbass wrote:
germainghys wrote:
If anybody needs these ...I have 10 sets in spare
PM me


In my haste buying these, I ordered nine units [of ten]. Now I have 90 of these connectors, 81 of of which I don't need. very frustrating


Oh man. Are you talking about the edge connectors? Didn't see a pic attached. If so, I need a set! Pretty much the last thing I need.
Jruss993
satindas wrote:
Noise problem sorted SlayerBadger!

Pin 8 (GND) of IC55 (V2164) wasn't even touching the sides of the hole. "Like a cock in a shirt sleeve", you might say ( Not mine you understand hihi )

Found and sorted one other issue ... voice 8A sin wave was misbehaving but that was a pin bent under a chip. d'oh! First time for everything I guess.

Vid later.

And so to bed to dream of replicants.
Im done ! Dead Banana


Wow! Congratulations!
spneca
I've encountered a problem with my build. I am able to upload the firmware and everything works as it should. However if I power down and turn it back on, it tries to update the firmware again but this time it gets stuck on 87%. If I power cycle after that, the screen is mostly blank with some "TV static" on the bottom third. If I reboot it holding shift and re-reformat it, put the firmware on and power cycle it updates the firmware and everything works fine until I turn it off. Any ideas?
needspeed
spneca wrote:
I've encountered a problem with my build. I am able to upload the firmware and everything works as it should. However if I power down and turn it back on, it tries to update the firmware again but this time it gets stuck on 87%. If I power cycle after that, the screen is mostly blank with some "TV static" on the bottom third. If I reboot it holding shift and re-reformat it, put the firmware on and power cycle it updates the firmware and everything works fine until I turn it off. Any ideas?


The firmware file should be automatically removed after it is installed. On my beta version I needed to do that so:

Boot up as USB drive and place firmware file on DDRM.
Turn of and then back on and firmware should load.
Turn off and then reboot in USB drive mode
Remove firmware file from DDRM
Load factory preset file Turn off
Turn on and all will be well.....Steve

Again Firmware file only needs to be there to be loaded the first time
spneca
needspeed wrote:
The firmware file should be automatically removed after it is installed. On my beta version I needed to do that so:

Boot up as USB drive and place firmware file on DDRM.
Turn of and then back on and firmware should load.
Turn off and then reboot in USB drive mode
Remove firmware file from DDRM
Load factory preset file Turn off
Turn on and all will be well.....Steve

Again Firmware file only needs to be there to be loaded the first time


Thanks for the reply. When rebooting in USB drive mode after installing the firmware, the original firmware file appears to be gone. The only file I see is "freqs.s" Removing that did not change my unit's behavior.
needspeed
spneca wrote:
needspeed wrote:
The firmware file should be automatically removed after it is installed. On my beta version I needed to do that so:

Boot up as USB drive and place firmware file on DDRM.
Turn of and then back on and firmware should load.
Turn off and then reboot in USB drive mode
Remove firmware file from DDRM
Load factory preset file Turn off
Turn on and all will be well.....Steve

Again Firmware file only needs to be there to be loaded the first time


Thanks for the reply. When rebooting in USB drive mode after installing the firmware, the original firmware file appears to be gone. The only file I see is "freqs.s" Removing that did not change my unit's behavior.


After the firmware is installed, it no longer loads, it just turns on after quickly showing the firmware version. It should not show a loading percentage.

Maybe starting over might help.
Use st-link to erase the arm memory and start over again
Before doing that, reformat the DDRM drive in USB mode.
Then start over fresh as if it was new again.
once loaded, the firmware is done and should not reload as it is not on the file system to load in the first place
Also don't forget to put the factory presets on there as they are a good start
..........Steve
haternob
I wonder if Blackcorp will be offering individual voice card PCBs?

It'd be nice to build a couple of extras as spares so if, god forbid, a voice board went down in the future we could install a spare whilst trouble shooting.
ffont
Hi everyone,

In relation to the latest BOM changes that Roman mentioned (two caps in the PSU board) but that have not yet been added in a new BOM rev (latest one is still 1.0.7), I'm not sure which parts should I buy from mouser.

All indications we have are "C12 should be 1uf, c13 - 330uf 6.3V or higher 8MM DIA /3.5 LS". According to this I could find capacitors of these values, 8mm diameter and 3.5mm ls, but I am not sure about the other properties like voltage rating, etc. (sorry, total newbie here wink. So far, this is what I found trying to find capacitors similar to the other ones in the board:

c12 -> 647-UDB1H010MPM
c13 -> 667-EEU-FS1V331LB

Can someone confirm if these parts will do?
Thank you very much!
needspeed
ffont wrote:
Hi everyone,

In relation to the latest BOM changes that Roman mentioned (two caps in the PSU board) but that have not yet been added in a new BOM rev (latest one is still 1.0.7), I'm not sure which parts should I buy from mouser.

All indications we have are "C12 should be 1uf, c13 - 330uf 6.3V or higher 8MM DIA /3.5 LS". According to this I could find capacitors of these values, 8mm diameter and 3.5mm ls, but I am not sure about the other properties like voltage rating, etc. (sorry, total newbie here wink. So far, this is what I found trying to find capacitors similar to the other ones in the board:

c12 -> 647-UDB1H010MPM
c13 -> 667-EEU-FS1V331LB

Can someone confirm if these parts will do?
Thank you very much!



These:
330uF
1uF

The one you picked for C12 is Bi-Polar/Non-Polar they both must be
Polarized!!!!!!.........Steve
ffont
Thanks Steve!

Maybe you could add the links to these parts on the first post.
However, the 330uf you point to has VDC 6.3V. Isn't that potentially too low? As I said before I'm almost total newbie so my question might be stupid, but I see the PSU board can output a range of -12V to 12V, shouldn't VDC in the capacitor be higher "just in case" (higher than 12V)?

And another super newbie question. In the BOM it mentions that we need "epoxy glue". I'm quite embarrassed to ask that but... what's epoxy glue and why/where do we need that?
needspeed
ffont wrote:
Thanks Steve!

Maybe you could add the links to these parts on the first post.
However, the 330uf you point to has VDC 6.3V. Isn't that potentially too low? As I said before I'm almost total newbie so my question might be stupid, but I see the PSU board can output a range of -12V to 12V, shouldn't VDC in the capacitor be higher "just in case" (higher than 12V)?

And another super newbie question. In the BOM it mentions that we need "epoxy glue". I'm quite embarrassed to ask that but... what's epoxy glue and why/where do we need that?


You are correct that the cap voltage is specified as a minimum and you can go higher, but since Roman stated 6.3V as the minimum, his design would not push that value.

As to epoxy, I have no clue yet what that is for, as it must be part of the overall build and assembly guile which is not complete. You do not need it to build and test your DDRM at this point........Steve
ffont
Sure, I see now Roman pointed 6.3V. Thank you very much again Steve!
I'll write your name in one of the voice boards so one of every 8 notes I play will be in your honour smile
needspeed
ffont wrote:
Sure, I see now Roman pointed 6.3V. Thank you very much again Steve!
I'll write your name in one of the voice boards so one of every 8 notes I play will be in your honour smile


You are awesome, have a great build and if you are on Facebook we have a great group there also. I will make sure you get in.......Steve
ffont
I managed to join the Facebook group, but I thought I'd rather ask this here as I felt it could be of general interest. Maybe I'll ask future questions in Facebook as it allows threaded conversations.
needspeed
ffont wrote:
I managed to join the Facebook group, but I thought I'd rather ask this here as I felt it could be of general interest. Maybe I'll ask future questions in Facebook as it allows threaded conversations.


This project seems different as the focus seems to have shifted to Facebook for the build rather than here.

The good part about here and the wiki, is that the documentation is easy to find and you are not searching through FB threads.

So I will update the first page with these part numbers and then the Wiki gets updated for reference.

I pay close attention to both here and FB.......Steve
Pando
I just sent a request to join the FB group (you can infer my username easily). I hope I can get in.

I have the boards, and I'll get the synthcube kit on Thursday. Looks like it's gonna be fun.

Thanks
needspeed
Pando wrote:
I just sent a request to join the FB group (you can infer my username easily). I hope I can get in.

I have the boards, and I'll get the synthcube kit on Thursday. Looks like it's gonna be fun.

Thanks


I am not the moderator but if you PM me your email I am sure I can invite you in, but the moderator will grant you access when time permits I am sure......Steve
Pando
Thanks Steve, no hurry, I'll wait...
satindas
Once you've tried black.....
Please don't bug Roman with requests...... it's the only one hihi

needspeed
satindas wrote:
Once you've tried black.....
Please don't bug Roman with requests...... it's the only one hihi



Very nice and congratulations. DIY Hub will ship ours sometime in December so all is good.....Steve
satindas
needspeed wrote:
ffont wrote:


And another super newbie question. In the BOM it mentions that we need "epoxy glue". I'm quite embarrassed to ask that but... what's epoxy glue and why/where do we need that?


As to epoxy, I have no clue yet what that is for, as it must be part of the overall build and assembly guile which is not complete. You do not need it to build and test your DDRM at this point........Steve


There's a clear plastic lens over the OLED which fixes to the front panel. The epoxy is to fix said lens in place. thumbs up
satindas
needspeed wrote:

Very nice and congratulations. DIY Hub will ship ours sometime in December so all is good.....Steve


Thanks Steve.... I wish I could keep it.... Alas, I have merely played the part of midwife in which has been a relatively problem free birth. (One IC socket hole too big and one chip leg bent under chip) Seriously though, huge props to Roman for realising such an incredibly well put together project. And yes, it sounds incredible too! Thoroughly enjoyed the build but I'm in no hurry to do another... Those voice cards do truly "suck the life out of you". Dead Banana
Pando
So what's the story behind the faceplates? I thought the pre-built ones are already shipping so the faceplates should be done... Or are the DIY case parts done by different folks?

Just curious.
ultravox
Pando wrote:
So what's the story behind the faceplates? I thought the pre-built ones are already shipping so the faceplates should be done... Or are the DIY case parts done by different folks?

Just curious.


Probably they were fabricated in batches with the prebuilt cases first followed by the DIY cases that are deeper and have the text "DIY SYNTHESIZER" added.
needspeed
satindas wrote:
needspeed wrote:

Very nice and congratulations. DIY Hub will ship ours sometime in December so all is good.....Steve


Thanks Steve.... I wish I could keep it.... Alas, I have merely played the part of midwife in which has been a relatively problem free birth. (One IC socket hole too big and one chip leg bent under chip) Seriously though, huge props to Roman for realising such an incredibly well put together project. And yes, it sounds incredible too! Thoroughly enjoyed the build but I'm in no hurry to do another... Those voice cards do truly "suck the life out of you". Dead Banana


Roman has hit it out of the park with the DDRM. And building it is such an accomplishment, so many props to you. But for anyone who does DIY, the kit is the bomb and the resulting synth even better......Steve
livewire
Can somebody tell me what "DDRM" means? This term has been used quite a bit lately. I get the "DD" part. What does "RM" have to do with anything?
captnapalm
livewire wrote:
Can somebody tell me what "DDRM" means? This term has been used quite a bit lately. I get the "DD" part. What does "RM" have to do with anything?


Just an abbreviation for Deckard's DReaM?
synthcube
yes, we coined the term since a lot of synths are acronym friendly and it was just a much easier way to refer to Deckards Dream. Its totally not sanctioned by the designer although to date he's not complained smile
livewire
Thanks, that makes sense.
fuzzbass
Just don't get them started on the meaning of Deckard's dream. Its just a unicorn, and the origami foldin' cop likes unicorns too - coincidence, ok?
Pando
Well I hope this doesn't turn into Deckard's Nightmare, I'm getting my kit today and will start building!

SlayerBadger!
livewire
Ha-Haaaaaaaa! The potential IS there! Good luck and happy wigglin. screaming goo yo screaming goo yo screaming goo yo
livewire
fuzzbass wrote:
Just don't get them started on the meaning of Deckard's dream. Its just a unicorn, and the origami foldin' cop likes unicorns too - coincidence, ok?


This guy? BTW he's back for 2049.
Pando
All SMD caps done on all 8 voice boards. 3 hours total (about 20 min per board). My butt hurts.

I tinned one pad first for each cap, then used a small magnetic screwdriver to pick the caps up and place them on the board, soldering them to the tinned pad. Once they were all placed, I soldered the other side. Not bad at all - didn't lose a single cap!
Chrutil
Pando wrote:
My butt hurts.


It is indeed a pain in the ass lol
Nice job though, and impressive not losing any. I seem to set about one or two percent of mine flying one way or another hmmm.....
Pando
Here is my method of placing the SMD caps easily and efficiently:

synthcube
thats awesome! you could also consider straightening out the tape and peeling off the top layer, so you could tag each cap with the magnetic screwdriver directly from the strip without having to take each one out individually (for your second DDRM build of course smile )

Sort of like being your own human equivalent of a pick n' place machine
Pando
Synthcube, I have to tell you how pleased I was to open the full DDRM Synthcube kit. Everything was so wonderfully packed, labeled, and organized. Rather than trying to gobble the parts together myself and deal with the mess, I'm glad I ordered the kit. It's a major, major timesaver. I can't thank you enough, this is really wonderful.



Pando
synthcube wrote:
thats awesome! you could also consider straightening out the tape and peeling off the top layer, so you could tag each cap with the magnetic screwdriver directly from the strip without having to take each one out individually (for your second DDRM build of course smile )

Sort of like being your own human equivalent of a pick n' place machine


Great tip, thanks! I placed each cap in about 5 seconds so I certainly felt like one smile
Bonati
When are the individual chip sets going to be in stock on Synthcube?

I had a lot of the parts on hand, didn't buy the full kit.
synthcube
Restocks of V2164D are enroute now; CEM3340 in stock as well as the ED Noise IC. We're also beta testing a way to order specific parts from the BOM, for people who have some parts but want to order what they are missing, from a single source in an easy fashion.
Pando
I posted this to the FB group, but here it is as well.

A quick writeup how I started building voice boards, more geared toward the beginners. I don't stuff all componets at the same time, as this makes it hard to get access to the leads to solder them. I use about 20-25 components, sometimes one BOM line, at a time. I stuff and solder them on one board first, then use it as a template to build the other 7 by comparing the component locations visually.

needspeed
synthcube wrote:
Restocks of V2164D are enroute now; CEM3340 in stock as well as the ED Noise IC. We're also beta testing a way to order specific parts from the BOM, for people who have some parts but want to order what they are missing, from a single source in an easy fashion.


Awesome SynthCube and also awesome Pando!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
resynthesize
I am considering sourcing common ICs (tl072, tl074, etc) from tayda instead of mouser for price considerations. Any concerns with that strategy that I should be aware of?
synthcube
We believe the vast majority of people on this forum have had good success with them!
Laughing
Hey guys, thought I'd actually contribute something here finally. The one thing that really lengthens my build time is finding every individual damn resistor, so I popped the idea of taking a picture for each and color coding them. And then other people could probably find this useful, too! So here they are, and assuming Muffs lays them out in order, that should be all the 10ks, then the 30k's, then the 33k's. Now, naturally this is no excuse for checking the designators and making sure you're putting the right part in the right hole, but scanning the board 24 individual times is ASS, and then having to do it 7 times after that (15 for me) multiplies ASS by BALLS. Tell me if you find anything not done right! and if anyone wants to hop on doing the other values, go for it! I'll try and do more, but no guarantees, and when I get down to the onesey twosey ones, it'll probably just be one picture with several colors and a legend, 6 or so at a time or something, because then that reverts to the problem of having to scan the picture again.



ultravox
Laughing wrote:
Hey guys, thought I'd actually contribute something here finally. The one thing that really lengthens my build time is finding every individual damn resistor, so I popped the idea of taking a picture for each and color coding them. And then other people could probably find this useful, too! So here they are, and assuming Muffs lays them out in order, that should be all the 10ks, then the 30k's, then the 33k's. Now, naturally this is no excuse for checking the designators and making sure you're putting the right part in the right hole, but scanning the board 24 individual times is ASS, and then having to do it 7 times after that (15 for me) multiplies ASS by BALLS. Tell me if you find anything not done right! and if anyone wants to hop on doing the other values, go for it! I'll try and do more, but no guarantees, and when I get down to the onesey twosey ones, it'll probably just be one picture with several colors and a legend, 6 or so at a time or something, because then that reverts to the problem of having to scan the picture again.


Nice work! - really nice work!
roman_f
spneca wrote:
I've encountered a problem with my build. I am able to upload the firmware and everything works as it should. However if I power down and turn it back on, it tries to update the firmware again but this time it gets stuck on 87%. If I power cycle after that, the screen is mostly blank with some "TV static" on the bottom third. If I reboot it holding shift and re-reformat it, put the firmware on and power cycle it updates the firmware and everything works fine until I turn it off. Any ideas?


are you using mac for uploading the files?
it looks like mac adds some invisible files in a folder, that conflict with the firmware. please try to reformat with PC
spneca
roman_f wrote:
are you using mac for uploading the files?
it looks like mac adds some invisible files in a folder, that conflict with the firmware. please try to reformat with PC


Thanks, Roman.

I did this and now it works as it should.
Pando
@roman_f I have a request - could you publish PDF files of the component side layout and part labels (basically the silkscreen images)?

If the component labels are real fonts (as opposed to vector data), it will allow to use a PDF search function to find where the component is. This will speed up the assembly a great deal. It will also allow troubleshooting later in case of a misplaced component, which is hard to do right now because once the components are placed to the PCB, they cover the labels, and I didn't think of taking scans or photos before assembly.

I realize that this will probably be in the build guide, but we're already full steam ahead building it.

Thank you for designing such a great instrument! I can't wait to play it.
livewire
Pando wrote:
@roman_f I have a request - could you publish PDF files of the component side layout and part labels (basically the silkscreen images)?

If the component labels are real fonts (as opposed to vector data), it will allow to use a PDF search function to find where the component is. This will speed up the assembly a great deal. It will also allow troubleshooting later in case of a misplaced component, which is hard to do right now because once the components are placed to the PCB, they cover the labels, and I didn't think of taking scans or photos before assembly.

I realize that this will probably be in the build guide, but we're already full steam ahead building it.

Thank you for designing such a great instrument! I can't wait to play it.


See page 13 of this thread regarding sduck's post for the downloadable pcb scan zip file. Sorry, I don't know nothing about fonts and vector data.
Pando
livewire wrote:

See page 13 of this thread regarding sduck's post for the downloadable pcb scan zip file. Sorry, I don't know nothing about fonts and vector data.


Thanks - these are JPGs, scanned images. They are very helpful. I tried converting these images with OCR but there is not enough resolution.

I hope Roman can make a drawing file available as a searchable PDF so you can press Ctrl-F and search for a specific text (a component label) in the drawing.
ultravox
Voice boards, PSU and Breakout board - done. I'll install the IC's after finishing up the motherboard and hardware board.

All boards were washed with hot tap water and given a final rinse with deionized water. They look picture perfect and no water stains.

I powered the PSU from my bench power supply and checked the voltages: all DC volts are there and all LED's light up.

The final build is delayed till next week due to Mouser shorted me a few resistors and caps needed for the two main boards. I live chatted with them and sent them photos of the parts bags by email. Their quality control department contacted me, said they were very sorry, and are shipping me the balance of components.

Minigorille
Hi,

So here is a searchable pdf for the VoiceCard. You can search all components but the SMD Capacitor as they are all the same.
You can use the BOM designator column as I have formatted them with searchable key.
So for Example if you want all the 150K Resistor you could just copy-paste :
"R56" "R59" "R61" "R69" "R162" "R165" "R167" "R175"
and all the 150K resistor will get highlighted on the PCB.
I have check things multiple time and did not find errors but always double check.
PS : I use Preview (apple) and have not check search functionality with other pdf viewer.

Thanks

Download file here :
Searchable VoiceCard component PCB
captnapalm
Minigorille wrote:
Hi,

So here is a searchable pdf for the VoiceCard. You can search all components but the SMD Capacitor as they are all the same.
You can use the BOM designator column as I have formatted them with searchable key.
So for Example if you want all the 150K Resistor you could just copy-paste :
"R56" "R59" "R61" "R69" "R162" "R165" "R167" "R175"
and all the 150K resistor will get highlighted on the PCB.
I have check things multiple time and did not find errors but always double check.
PS : I use Preview (apple) and have not check search functionality with other pdf viewer.

Thanks

Download file here :
Searchable VoiceCard component PCB


Amazing, thank you for this! Rockin' Banana! screaming goo yo
Pando
Minigorille wrote:
So here is a searchable pdf for the VoiceCard.


Great stuff, thank you so very much!

Will you be able to do other boards as well?
dataplex
I just finished soldering the voicecards, feeling a bit Dead Banana but in a good way.

compared to voicecards, how long did it take you to finish the rest?
jimfowler
everything else is a breeze compared to the voice cards.
Techman
Just a heads up...

After stuffing all the 0.1uF 0805 caps onto the Main Board, I blithely filled all positions with 0.1uF. Now I just noticed from the BOM that C6 is actually supposed to be 10uF. This was not included with the Synthcube kit. eek!
livewire
Techman wrote:
Just a heads up...

After stuffing all the 0.1uF 0805 caps onto the Main Board, I blithely filled all positions with 0.1uF. Now I just noticed from the BOM that C6 is actually supposed to be 10uF. This was not included with the Synthcube kit. eek!


That was due to a BOM change. Check the list on page one of this thread and the other site listed there for the other changes that affect this build. Good luck!
Pando
^ Thanks Techman, I managed to do the same thing. I think eventually I would have discovered it also by looking at the BOM.

Looks like it's part of the STLink connector circuitry - looks like it's connected to a reset pin, possibly to increase the boot-up delay of the MCU.

Anyway, not having the 0805 10uF cap on hand, a workaround hack would be to solder any ceramic 10uF to the bottom legs of R5 and R8 or to the SMD pad directly.
Techman
livewire wrote:
Techman wrote:
Just a heads up...

After stuffing all the 0.1uF 0805 caps onto the Main Board, I blithely filled all positions with 0.1uF. Now I just noticed from the BOM that C6 is actually supposed to be 10uF. This was not included with the Synthcube kit. eek!


That was due to a BOM change. Check the list on page one of this thread and the other site listed there for the other changes that affect this build. Good luck!


very frustrating very frustrating I've gone BOM Blind. I read that several times too. For some reason I didn't twig that it was one of the SMTs. oops
whyfarer
FWIW I've added a second sheet to my BOM spreadsheet where I'm documenting all changes broken out by board. Now, before I start any board I make sure that my change sheet has all the newest tweaks and then I just check there. Simple and working well so far. I started doing this after I also missed the one different SMD cap...
livewire
So I am waiting for the slow boat from China. It doesn't have to be this way, I could pay ten times as much for US sourced IC sockets, but I am a cheap SOB and don't mind waiting. Anyhow, the BOM lists 52 pieces 16 pin sockets required, the actual quantity needed is 108 pieces. Geez! I came up real short and need to place another order. BTW, 14 pin socket is listed on BOM as 107 pieces, actual quantity needed is 115 pieces. Lesson learned: have plenty of extra IC sockets in your stash for days like this.
captnapalm
livewire wrote:
So I am waiting for the slow boat from China. It doesn't have to be this way, I could pay ten times as much for US sourced IC sockets, but I am a cheap SOB and don't mind waiting. Anyhow, the BOM lists 52 pieces 16 pin sockets required, the actual quantity needed is 108 pieces. Geez! I came up real short and need to place another order. BTW, 14 pin socket is listed on BOM as 107 pieces, actual quantity needed is 115 pieces. Lesson learned: have plenty of extra IC sockets in your stash for days like this.


Thanks for the heads up; looks like I'll have to put in a second order too.
Pando
Resistance is futile. You will be assimilated.





needspeed
WOW WOW WOW that is so freeking cool buddy......Steve
Pando
Almost done! Just a few more parts from Sc and I'm ready to power up.



needspeed
Looks fantastic Pando. I finally got mine working again yesterday and could not be happier with it. The sound is just so remarkable you can swim in it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Look forward to hearing yours......Steve
Pando
Thanks Steve! I'm so glad you got yours working again!

Sorry about the excitement at FB, that got a little carried away. Please stick around. Now I realize that your card edge connectors probably don't have pin numbers (looking at the picture at the start of this thread). No wonder that it got real confusing. My parts came from Synthcube, so the connector pins have numbers and letters.

But thanks for the connector diagram. I'll verify it against the pinout of the PCB, and the cross-reference will be nice to keep as a reference.
needspeed
Pando wrote:
Thanks Steve! I'm so glad you got yours working again!

Sorry about the excitement at FB, that got a little carried away. Please stick around. Now I realize that your card edge connectors probably don't have pin numbers (looking at the picture at the start of this thread). No wonder that it got real confusing. My parts came from Synthcube, so the connector pins have numbers and letters.

But thanks for the connector diagram. I'll verify it against the pinout of the PCB, and the cross-reference will be nice to keep as a reference.


I appreciate your sentiments, but if folks don't have common sense about this stuff its gets silly.

The markings on the headers have no meaning on their own. They are just a conduit for the card to pass signal through.

It is important to pick a 3rd pin either way it is exactly the same. Once it is pinned, then it has context and can be placed based on the main board markings.

Otherwise it is the same thing as a male to male garden hose. Who cares which end goes to the faucet and which end goes to the sprinkler.......Steve
Pando
You're right Steve, and after seeing the pinout you posted, they don't make any difference in this case.

I was under an assumption that the connector pin numbers were actually the same as in the schematic, which would have been nice to match them up. Your connectors don't have any markings at all, and mine are marked different than in the drawing.

When assembling electronics, usually it's best to match up the pin numbers of the header to its footprint. That's what it was all about. No different in the operation, it matters only when troubleshooting.

But thanks for the drawing - it's a HUGE help! smile
needspeed
Pando wrote:
You're right Steve, and after seeing the pinout you posted, they don't make any difference in this case.

I was under an assumption that the connector pin numbers were actually the same as in the schematic, which would have been nice to match them up. Your connectors don't have any markings at all, and mine are marked different than in the drawing.

When assembling electronics, usually it's best to match up the pin numbers of the header to its footprint. That's what it was all about. No different in the operation, it matters only when troubleshooting.

But thanks for the drawing - it's a HUGE help! smile


Yes it would be nice if the connectors were marked the same as the schematic but they are not, so in the end, what is relevant is knowing the pin-outs on the cards as these are directly reflected on the pins on the main board for troubleshooting.......Steve
needspeed
BOM updated to REV1.0.8


BOM REV1.0.8
synthcube
is this a BOM update or firmware update?thanks
needspeed
synthcube wrote:
is this a BOM update or firmware update?thanks


This is a BOM update that includes the two capacitor changes that I mentioned on the PSU baord.

See it here and read the Update Log at the bottom Per Roman BOM REV1.0.08

Also whats up with the slider caps??????
synthcube
Mr. Green they've gone out to everyone but you!!

(not true--- your set is here, we're just waiting to see if any more BOM changes require another shipment of parts before we send them )
needspeed
synthcube wrote:
Mr. Green they've gone out to everyone but you!!

(not true--- your set is here, we're just waiting to see if any more BOM changes require another shipment of parts before we send them )


I love you guys too love love love
livewire
The 16 pin & 14 pin IC socket quantities on the BOM are not correct. Am I missing something here? (other than not having enough sockets - lol) I have seen product designs that only require sockets for the "important" / "costly" / or trouble prone ICs. Maybe this is that? It is my preference to socket all ICs. Anyhow, shouldn't this constitute a BOM revision change???
livewire
Coming back here to Muff's is like a breath of fresh air after navigating that overpopulated FB site. It is unfortunate that information gets "buried" with the number of posts / sub-threads that occur. Newbies keep coming asking the same questions over and over again. I am sure that happens here too when the activity ramps up.

Anyhow, I need to get my post count up to get past the "Learning to wiggle" stage and gain some freedoms around here. Thank you for listening! Rockin' Banana!
synthcube
The 'original' BOMs do not account for socketing all of the through-hole ICs. We've adjusted our kit BOM to account for this by adding sockets, but each builder should buy the number of sockets for the socketing approach they choose to use.
synthcube
FWIW we use both fB and muffs (and twitter etc) and we find muff's continues to be the 'best' format for build threads like this vs Facebook navigation. Both have their place
livewire
synthcube wrote:
The 'original' BOMs do not account for socketing all of the through-hole ICs. We've adjusted our kit BOM to account for this by adding sockets, but each builder should buy the number of sockets for the socketing approach they choose to use.


Thanks for the explanation. smile

Oh, and I wasn't throwing shade at you guys. I bought all my stuff from China and Mouser except the fancy ICs which I got from you.
synthcube
of course!!! no offense taken---- only wanted to clarify for some why our BOM was different and to reinforce your good point that the official BOM doesn't cover all the ICs...

smile
MikkelM
Hey Synthcube.

Do you send out the kits so it can land under the christmas-tree?
My kids will properly hate you if its a yes.

Cheers
ultravox
livewire wrote:
Coming back here to Muff's is like a breath of fresh air after navigating that overpopulated FB site. It is unfortunate that information gets "buried" with the number of posts / sub-threads that occur. Newbies keep coming asking the same questions over and over again. I am sure that happens here too when the activity ramps up.

Anyhow, I need to get my post count up to get past the "Learning to wiggle" stage and gain some freedoms around here. Thank you for listening! Rockin' Banana!


I've been using the FB site because most of the info and answers seem to come in real time. But I also prefer muffs because of easy navigation, posts don't get buried and there are mods overseeing the whole thing (thanks for fixing Search!).

I hope the official build guide and schematics come soon. Important details come in from different people (including from me) but not usually directly from Roman or BlackCorp (actually I don't know who the BlackCorp members are, so it could be they are posting details on FB).

livewire, I think 50 or 100 posts is the magic number to graduate to "Common Wiggler"! hihi
Chrutil
synthcube wrote:
The 'original' BOMs do not account for socketing all of the through-hole ICs. We've adjusted our kit BOM to account for this by adding sockets, but each builder should buy the number of sockets for the socketing approach they choose to use.


To save me from counting (and miscounting) again, does anybody have the corrected actual count of sockets for all boards?

Thanks!
needspeed
Chrutil wrote:
synthcube wrote:
The 'original' BOMs do not account for socketing all of the through-hole ICs. We've adjusted our kit BOM to account for this by adding sockets, but each builder should buy the number of sockets for the socketing approach they choose to use.


To save me from counting (and miscounting) again, does anybody have the corrected actual count of sockets for all boards?

Thanks!


I think you can find them on Synthcubes BOM which you can download from them here: Synthcube BOM
livewire
I did a recount of the IC sockets and stand corrected. The BOM quantities are correct for the 14 pin and 8 pin IC sockets. My count for the 16 pin socket is 109 pieces. The BOM shows 52 pieces.

To be safe, one should order extra sockets of each size. On this build I have found two defective sockets in the parts I had ordered. What do you expect for Chinese quality control?
Could be worse. hihi
needspeed
livewire wrote:
I did a recount of the IC sockets and stand corrected. The BOM quantities are correct for the 14 pin and 8 pin IC sockets. My count for the 16 pin socket is 109 pieces. The BOM shows 52 pieces.

To be safe, one should order extra sockets of each size. On this build I have found two defective sockets in the parts I had ordered. What do you expect for Chinese quality control?
Could be worse. hihi


Synthcube has the really good machined ones they are all good so U get what U pay for indeed
fuzzbass
needspeed wrote:
livewire wrote:
I did a recount of the IC sockets and stand corrected. The BOM quantities are correct for the 14 pin and 8 pin IC sockets. My count for the 16 pin socket is 109 pieces. The BOM shows 52 pieces.

To be safe, one should order extra sockets of each size. On this build I have found two defective sockets in the parts I had ordered. What do you expect for Chinese quality control?
Could be worse. hihi


Synthcube has the really good machined ones they are all good so U get what U pay for indeed


synthcube gets plenty of money from me but +1 for machined sockets from Tayda - best price!
needspeed
Tony thats all good, and agree, my point was the machined ones are worth the extra coin over the cheap assed Chinese ones however you source them.


Especially for a synth that seems to have cost me $5 grand for some unknown reason HEE HEE HEE......Steve
Pando
I'm posting this here as well, I hope it will be useful.

This is the pinout of the voice card connector and the cross reference for the numbered pins on the connector supplied by Synthcube.

synthcube
MikkelM wrote:
Hey Synthcube.

Do you send out the kits so it can land under the christmas-tree?
My kids will properly hate you if its a yes.

Cheers


yes smile
Pando
synthcube wrote:
MikkelM wrote:
Hey Synthcube.

Do you send out the kits so it can land under the christmas-tree?
My kids will properly hate you if its a yes.

Cheers


yes smile



Synthcube, hopefully you can get the backordered chips (and a few other parts) for me as well smile
synthcube
DDRM builders, can you clarify a header question for us? The official BOM calls for quantity 2 of 2X5 10- pin female header sockets and quantity 2 of 2X6 12-pin female header sockets. One builder suggests instead that the unit requires 1X10 pin female and 1X10 pin male header, and 1X12 pin female and 1X12 pin male header.

Our kits have shipped with the 2X female headers per the BOM... does the build require 2X female sockets or 1X female and 1X male?

thanks !
Pando
The two large PC boards (main and hardware boards) are mated together using two connectors - one 10-pin, and one 12-pin. Each connector requires a male and female connector (sex education 101 smile ).

You can see it in the official BOM (1.0.7) - Excel rows 8 & 9 mention female headers on the hardware board (one each 10 and 12 pin):

PLD1 1 PLD-10 2.54M PITCH 2X5 FEMALE HEADER 517-929975-01-05-RK
PLD2 1 PLD-12 2.54M PITCH 2X6 FEMALE HEADER 517-929975-01-06-RK

Excel rows 54 & 55 show male headers on the main board (one each 10 and 12 pin):

PBD1 1 PBD-10 2.54M PITCH 2X5 MALE HEADER 517-929836-01-05-RK
PBD2 1 PBD-12 2.54M PITCH 2X6 MALE HEADER 517-929836-01-06-RK

Synthcube BOM (and what was delivered) has two 10 pin female and two 12 pin female headers, which won't work.
synthcube
perfect, thanks. we will revise the BOM accordingly and send the male pin headers to prior kit recipients.
needspeed
I have confirmed with another who just finished his build that the DDRM will not play with less than 8 voice cards. MIDI is received but the unit will not cycle through the voices. I have a beta version that works just fine with one or up to 8 voices. Let me know if anyone else is seeing this issue or need help.....Steve Unison mode will work for testing
livewire
Roman has posted the Deckard's Dream schematics. Tis a thing of beauty.

Find the zip file here: http://www.deckardsdream.com/downloads
needspeed
First post updated for schematics.......Steve
Jruss993
I've run into a snag getting my DDRM up and running. I made a post on the FB build group and will copy it here.

Basically, I have flashed the boot loader on the Arm chip, but can't get a USB trident. Only snowflakes on the screen appear after powering down and holding shift on reset. I've tried erasing and re-programming the chip but I get the same thing. Here is what I have tried so far to get to a USB boot up;

- first checked voltage of the psu, edge connector, PLD1 & 2 and IC 14 and 16 which receive from button 5 (shift). Voltage at PSU are 12v, 5v and 3.3v. At PLD 1 it is 3.287v and 5.021v, and PLD 2 was 3.287v. IC 14 and 16 had voltage of 3.287.
- Next I checked the button 5, it had continuity when depressed. Button checked out. I also checked voltage after R5, and it is 3.287.
- I've swapped IC 14 with a different 4051, and IC16 with a different 595.

At this point I need some pointers. Is it something to do with the Arm chip? Voltage is a little under 3.3 but seems very consistent. I have gone over sockets like crazy and have ruled out pins not being inserted. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
jimfowler
Jruss993 -

Are you flashing with a PC or Apple? Perhaps this is pertinent:

roman_f wrote:
spneca wrote:
I've encountered a problem with my build. I am able to upload the firmware and everything works as it should. However if I power down and turn it back on, it tries to update the firmware again but this time it gets stuck on 87%. If I power cycle after that, the screen is mostly blank with some "TV static" on the bottom third. If I reboot it holding shift and re-reformat it, put the firmware on and power cycle it updates the firmware and everything works fine until I turn it off. Any ideas?


are you using mac for uploading the files?
it looks like mac adds some invisible files in a folder, that conflict with the firmware. please try to reformat with PC
Jruss993
jimfowler wrote:
Jruss993 -

Are you flashing with a PC or Apple? Perhaps this is pertinent:

roman_f wrote:
spneca wrote:
I've encountered a problem with my build. I am able to upload the firmware and everything works as it should. However if I power down and turn it back on, it tries to update the firmware again but this time it gets stuck on 87%. If I power cycle after that, the screen is mostly blank with some "TV static" on the bottom third. If I reboot it holding shift and re-reformat it, put the firmware on and power cycle it updates the firmware and everything works fine until I turn it off. Any ideas?


are you using mac for uploading the files?
it looks like mac adds some invisible files in a folder, that conflict with the firmware. please try to reformat with PC


Hey Jim,

Using a PC. The program seems to go well. Every time I've done the programming, it's come back verified as ok.
Pando
Jruss993 wrote:
Using a PC. The program seems to go well. Every time I've done the programming, it's come back verified as ok.


It's possible that it is related to the issue you have with 3.3V power on the output board (from your FB post). This connects to the USB power switch, and it also has a fault pin that signals the MCU that something is wrong. USB is all controlled by the MCU. Pure speculation on my part, just trying to interpret the schematics. What's actually going on inside the MCU and firmware I have no idea.
nickciontea
edit... found it
drane2
Asked Andrew for an update on the DIY cases, his response in case anyone else was also wondering.

"Their being made right now Should be in by the end of the month.
I will keep you guys posted."
needspeed
drane2 wrote:
Asked Andrew for an update on the DIY cases, his response in case anyone else was also wondering.

"Their being made right now Should be in by the end of the month.
I will keep you guys posted."


I gave up on the case as I like mine naked and have every slider memorized HEE HEE HEE
Pando
Oww my neck...

How did you attach that chair to a wall?
needspeed
Pando wrote:
Oww my neck...

How did you attach that chair to a wall?


Sorry but I got the Quantum version that operates multidimensionally, both in time and space.......Steve
fuzzbass
needspeed wrote:


Deckard's Drums.
livewire
So last Thursday Roman visited the DD FB site to aid in troubleshooting the various problems people are having with their replicants. Any feedback on this?
I didn't see anything posted on FB as far as solutions go. hmmm.....
livewire
Trying to get my post count up.....I have another question.
On the DD FB site, Pando proposed inserting a blocking (protection) diode into the power harness that goes to the DD output board.
Sounds like a good idea although there were others that opined that the idea needed to be tweaked to withstand a potential meltdown. Thoughts?
livewire
WTF! 50 POSTS SlayerBadger! IMA CELEBRATIN screaming goo yo Guinness ftw! w00t screaming goo yo Guinness ftw! w00t screaming goo yo Guinness ftw! w00t screaming goo yo Guinness ftw! w00t GOIN TO THE MARKETPLACE AND WATCHIN PORN Miley Cyrus
needspeed
livewire wrote:
WTF! 50 POSTS SlayerBadger! IMA CELEBRATIN screaming goo yo Guinness ftw! w00t screaming goo yo Guinness ftw! w00t screaming goo yo Guinness ftw! w00t screaming goo yo Guinness ftw! w00t GOIN TO THE MARKETPLACE AND WATCHIN PORN Miley Cyrus


Congratulations of pumping up your post count, though it is highly frowned upon, I will not tell.

Roman needs to help more than he is, but he is in a bit over his head due to too much success!!!! I know he and Bob will work it out, but the DIY community is taking a bit of a support hit.......Steve
drane2
livewire wrote:
Trying to get my post count up.....I have another question.
On the DD FB site, Pando proposed inserting a blocking (protection) diode into the power harness that goes to the DD output board.
Sounds like a good idea although there were others that opined that the idea needed to be tweaked to withstand a potential meltdown. Thoughts?


the comment about properly rating the series diode is correct. the originally suggested part would probably fry. there are other parts one could choose that had, say, a 10A rating. the concerns about headroom can be safely ignored (based on the schematic).

I'll probably just assume I won't ever screw the polarity up and not worry about it, though a reverse polarity could potentially damage the cincons and the other IC regulators.
needspeed
drane2 wrote:
livewire wrote:
Trying to get my post count up.....I have another question.
On the DD FB site, Pando proposed inserting a blocking (protection) diode into the power harness that goes to the DD output board.
Sounds like a good idea although there were others that opined that the idea needed to be tweaked to withstand a potential meltdown. Thoughts?


the comment about properly rating the series diode is correct. the originally suggested part would probably fry. there are other parts one could choose that had, say, a 10A rating. the concerns about headroom can be safely ignored (based on the schematic).

I'll probably just assume I won't ever screw the polarity up and not worry about it, though a reverse polarity could potentially damage the cincons and the other IC regulators.


I could give two poops as the power connectors are keyed, and if you EEEFFFF that up, no diode/rectifiers gonna help.

Its just 2 wires and if you cant do that right how the hell are you going to build a kit with 4600+ parts anyway.....Steve
sduck
livewire wrote:
WTF! 50 POSTS SlayerBadger! IMA CELEBRATIN


I see nuthin' seriously, i just don't get it

this may make no sense unless you realize that i'm the mod that cares about these kinds of things, and in this case I'm not too concerned.
needspeed
sduck wrote:
livewire wrote:
WTF! 50 POSTS SlayerBadger! IMA CELEBRATIN


I see nuthin' seriously, i just don't get it

this may make no sense unless you realize that i'm the mod that cares about these kinds of things, and in this case I'm not too concerned.


Yes adding value is really the best way to earn a legitimate post count, HEE HEE HEE.......Steve

Over on FB we are creating a document to help folks hook up st-link for the first time, load firmware and calibrate their DDRMs. I will post here and get it on the wiki as I expect to have it done well by tomorrow morning.
Pando
Thank you Steve for your wisdom and guidance. Newborn was delivered without complications. All 8 voices alive and kicking. SlayerBadger!

Holy cr*p that was a rush at FB today. What I don't get is how could Steve manage to keep track of so many multiple threads going on at once in real time... seriously, i just don't get it we're not worthy

Mr. Green
needspeed
Pando wrote:
Thank you Steve for your wisdom and guidance. Newborn was delivered without complications. All 8 voices alive and kicking. SlayerBadger!

Holy cr*p that was a rush at FB today. What I don't get is how could Steve manage to keep track of so many multiple threads going on at once in real time... seriously, i just don't get it we're not worthy

Mr. Green


I have yet again proven that I am a very high function IDIOT savant.......Steve
Pando
livewire wrote:
On the DD FB site, Pando proposed inserting a blocking (protection) diode into the power harness that goes to the DD output board.
Sounds like a good idea although there were others that opined that the idea needed to be tweaked to withstand a potential meltdown. Thoughts?


This was an idea ill-conceived after many hours of staring at 3000+ resistors. Like others pointed out, the current would have probably fried the diode. I made an assumption about the diode's rating without checking, and it was not correct.

At this stage I'd stick with the original plan and just be careful to only use the proper supply. There may be a better way to protect against reverse polarity in the future once we know more about the inner workings of this thing.
needspeed
I am sure with a little time and knowledge one could build a small well designed daughter board the right way to serve this application......Steve
drane2
needspeed wrote:
drane2 wrote:
livewire wrote:
Trying to get my post count up.....I have another question.
On the DD FB site, Pando proposed inserting a blocking (protection) diode into the power harness that goes to the DD output board.
Sounds like a good idea although there were others that opined that the idea needed to be tweaked to withstand a potential meltdown. Thoughts?


the comment about properly rating the series diode is correct. the originally suggested part would probably fry. there are other parts one could choose that had, say, a 10A rating. the concerns about headroom can be safely ignored (based on the schematic).

I'll probably just assume I won't ever screw the polarity up and not worry about it, though a reverse polarity could potentially damage the cincons and the other IC regulators.


I could give two poops as the power connectors are keyed, and if you EEEFFFF that up, no diode/rectifiers gonna help.

Its just 2 wires and if you cant do that right how the hell are you going to build a kit with 4600+ parts anyway.....Steve


The discussion was about reverse polarity protection on the DC barrel jack input. Nothing to do with whether or not the cards are keyed.
drane2
drane2 wrote:
needspeed wrote:
drane2 wrote:
livewire wrote:
Trying to get my post count up.....I have another question.
On the DD FB site, Pando proposed inserting a blocking (protection) diode into the power harness that goes to the DD output board.
Sounds like a good idea although there were others that opined that the idea needed to be tweaked to withstand a potential meltdown. Thoughts?


the comment about properly rating the series diode is correct. the originally suggested part would probably fry. there are other parts one could choose that had, say, a 10A rating. the concerns about headroom can be safely ignored (based on the schematic).

I'll probably just assume I won't ever screw the polarity up and not worry about it, though a reverse polarity could potentially damage the cincons and the other IC regulators.


I could give two poops as the power connectors are keyed, and if you EEEFFFF that up, no diode/rectifiers gonna help.

Its just 2 wires and if you cant do that right how the hell are you going to build a kit with 4600+ parts anyway.....Steve


The discussion was about reverse polarity protection on the DC barrel jack input. Nothing to do with whether or not the cards are keyed.


Or maybe you're referring to the MTA connectors? Same answer.
needspeed
drane2 wrote:
drane2 wrote:
needspeed wrote:
drane2 wrote:
livewire wrote:
Trying to get my post count up.....I have another question.
On the DD FB site, Pando proposed inserting a blocking (protection) diode into the power harness that goes to the DD output board.
Sounds like a good idea although there were others that opined that the idea needed to be tweaked to withstand a potential meltdown. Thoughts?


the comment about properly rating the series diode is correct. the originally suggested part would probably fry. there are other parts one could choose that had, say, a 10A rating. the concerns about headroom can be safely ignored (based on the schematic).

I'll probably just assume I won't ever screw the polarity up and not worry about it, though a reverse polarity could potentially damage the cincons and the other IC regulators.


I could give two poops as the power connectors are keyed, and if you EEEFFFF that up, no diode/rectifiers gonna help.

Its just 2 wires and if you cant do that right how the hell are you going to build a kit with 4600+ parts anyway.....Steve


The discussion was about reverse polarity protection on the DC barrel jack input. Nothing to do with whether or not the cards are keyed.


Or maybe you're referring to the MTA connectors? Same answer.


MTA connectors indeed
synthcube
Pando wrote:
Thank you Steve for your wisdom and guidance. Newborn was delivered without complications. All 8 voices alive and kicking. SlayerBadger!

Holy cr*p that was a rush at FB today. What I don't get is how could Steve manage to keep track of so many multiple threads going on at once in real time... seriously, i just don't get it we're not worthy

Mr. Green


someone here needs to write the application that fully synchs forums with associated FB groups and threads and cross-posts. Then they can take their billion dollar buyout from FB and build the best synth the world has ever seen. MY ASS IS BLEEDING
Pando
Just updating the folks here also. I got it done yesterday and turned it on. IT WORKS. All 8 voices. Here are some images of the completed boards before final assembly.

Special thanks to Roman for this absolutely insane DIY project, for Synthcube for supplying all the parts, and Steve for the help and encouragement along the way.

Oh, and this is using the TL06x chips on the voice boards. They work fine.







needspeed
outstanding work on the build I am very happy for you and look forward to hearing some of your music as you explore this remarkable synth.....Steve
ultravox
Nice, clean professional job Pando!
MikkelM
I am either missing 3 SMD (C4, C5, C6) from my synth cube kit, or are they just the same as the rest?
livewire
@ Pando - clean that debris by C107 before it shorts something. lol
Great job, close to perfection. applause
All eight cylinders firing? That's a first (I think.) we're not worthy
Pando
livewire wrote:
@ Pando - clean that debris by C107 before it shorts something. lol
Great job, close to perfection. applause
All eight cylinders firing? That's a first (I think.) we're not worthy


Thanks! That's a strand from a cotton swab after I cleaned the boards. So small that I didn't notice until I looked at the pictures. I'm pretty sure it's not there any longer, as the back side picture was taken before I stuffed the chips and did a final inspection.

All 8 boards up and working first time after initial power up (there is a real-time blog in FB from all the excitement). All sliders and switches working. I haven't found any issues from playing around with presets, but I haven't spent much time on it yet.
michenal
Pando wrote:
Just updating the folks here also. I got it done yesterday and turned it on. IT WORKS. All 8 voices. Here are some images of the completed boards before final assembly.

Special thanks to Roman for this absolutely insane DIY project, for Synthcube for supplying all the parts, and Steve for the help and encouragement along the way.

Oh, and this is using the TL06x chips on the voice boards. They work fine.



This is beautiful work. thumbs up we're not worthy

I am planning to get this done as my first DIY project. Call me crazy.. I have been building my soldering skills on various very small scale projects while waiting for all components to arrive from synthcube and other providers. I still need to learn how to solder SMD but I have ordered training boards.

This is going to be interesting..
Pando
michenal wrote:

This is beautiful work. thumbs up we're not worthy

I am planning to get this done as my first DIY project. Call me crazy.. I have been building my soldering skills on various very small scale projects while waiting for all components to arrive from synthcube and other providers. I still need to learn how to solder SMD but I have ordered training boards.

This is going to be interesting..


Thanks,

You need a steady hand and a lot of patience, but it's not difficult. It's just very, very tedious work, and you need to be extremely meticulous and careful to place all the components in the correct place and orientation, especially the chips. Take your time. Do it too fast, and it will cost you more time later.

Disclaimer: I used to do this type of work for living for a few years in the early 90s, manually assembling PCBs in a manufacturing plant, very much like the DDRM project. While this is my very first DIY synth, I'm do have experience with electronics in general, so I was able to hit the ground running without a learning curve.

I posted how to solder the SMD caps on the DDRM earlier in this thread. I used this method to do all of them in this project. It was really easy.

sduck
Generally good advice, but a lot of us have better success using tweezers instead of a screwdriver to manipulate smt parts:
Pando
sduck wrote:
Generally good advice, but a lot of us have better success using tweezers instead of a screwdriver to manipulate smt parts:


Yup, that works too. I my case though it was too easy to lose my grip on those caps with tweezers, and when they snapped or dropped I never find them again. For me at least, magnetic screwdriver held them nicely without needing to hold it closed, and it supported the component against the iron on the other side setting them in perfectly every time. I had to fiddle a lot more with tweezers.

The trick is to tin one pad only before placing them, and then the other. I see that you're doing it as well! smile
synthcube
really lovely work!
Pando
Waiting on panel, had to improvise a bit. Mr. Green

Someone on FB mentioned a transparent case. Wouldn't that be cool!

jkjelec
Wow Pando, I've seen synth pron before, but this is the first Synth Printed Circuit Board Pron I've ever seen! hihi Great work and photos!
Minigorille
Hi, here is a voice card assembly guide.
I build one voice out of it and double check, all resistors should be correct but as always please check for yourself as you build and let me know if you find mistakes.
It's also a searchable pdf in case.
thanks
PWM
Pando, that is one sexy build!
Pando
Here my one of the first tries. It sings pretty good.

https://soundcloud.com/user-635888456/dd-brblues-test1/s-pQDmj
mOBiTh
Pando wrote:
Here my one of the first tries. It sings pretty good.

https://soundcloud.com/user-635888456/dd-brblues-test1/s-pQDmj


MY ASS IS BLEEDING MY ASS IS BLEEDING MY ASS IS BLEEDING MY ASS IS BLEEDING MY ASS IS BLEEDING
livewire
OMFG that sounded good! we're not worthy
sduck
Wow that sounds fantastic!
tobb
sduck wrote:
Wow that sounds fantastic!


That is how the famous 'Random Hall' algo sounds like wink
Synesthesia
this is a build thread - and you aren't allowed posting stuff for sale because of your low post count.
Synesthesia
gipsycat Dan - is that you ?
sduck
The sale post was deleted. Protip: if you're going to break the forum rules, don't do it in a thread a moderator is active in! cool
Synesthesia
sduck
thanks for that Sduck smile
.... or don't do it at all - rules are rules smile
Pando
So this a DIY Deckard's Dream with all 8 voice boards cranking. Just played this live. No sequencing, no EQ. Just some delay and reverb.

Holy hell. Turn this up in your sound system!

[s]https://soundcloud.com/user-635888456/deckards-nightmare-test-1[/s]
Altitude909
Woo hoo! Breaking ground on number 1 this week..

Just in case that I am missing something: the build guide for this $900 set of PCBs consists of 18 pictures of the output board?
ultravox
Altitude909 wrote:
Woo hoo! Breaking ground on number 1 this week..

Just in case that I am missing something: the build guide for this $900 set of PCBs consists of 18 pictures of the output board?


Yes, that is all there is. On the fb group we've been helping each other along.
roglok
Altitude909 wrote:
On the fb group we've been helping each other along.


harbinger of a bleak future...
ultravox
Here are copies of the build documents we came up with on the fb group. Some were created by specific members and the software load procedures was a community effort which was fine tuned by Steve.

The most recent activity is there is a mod in the works for the sawtooth glitch. Currently the glitch can be seen and heard in the higher octaves on DD (around key C7). The mod will extend the glitch throughout all the octaves. The mod was created by a fb group member (an engineer) and is being evaluated by Roman.
Altitude909
yeah, been in the group following but having those linked here is a good idea
drane2
Anybody have a lead on a source for the card edge connectors that isn't a Taiwan based ebay seller? Preferably in the states?
drane2
Looks like I can get my wish here for 5x the cost:

https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/sullins-connector-solutions/ EBM22DRXH/S3353-ND/927305
jdkJake
Pando wrote:
So this a DIY Deckard's Dream with all 8 voice boards cranking. Just played this live. No sequencing, no EQ. Just some delay and reverb.

Holy hell. Turn this up in your sound system!

[s]https://soundcloud.com/user-635888456/deckards-nightmare-test-1[/s]


My oh my. That is a very big sound.

Most intriguing indeed.
jimfowler
drane2 wrote:
Anybody have a lead on a source for the card edge connectors that isn't a Taiwan based ebay seller? Preferably in the states?


contact fuzzbass. according to page 17 he has about 81 connectors he doesn't need.
Altitude909
so what's the deal with the pink mat for the DC-DCs? This is thermally conductive I take it?
synthcube
thermally isolative?
Altitude909
synthcube wrote:
thermally isolative?

Maybe I am missing something, this is supposed to go between the Cincon and the heatsink or somewhere else? Pretty sure you want to conduct heat to the heat sink, not insulate it
Pando
I stuck it between the cincon and heatsink. My guess is that it's thermally conductive pad. It really can't be anything else.
KlangGenerator
Image shown on the product page:



So yes, it should be installed inbetween converter and heatsink.
Altitude909
KlangGenerator wrote:
Image shown on the product page:



So yes, it should be installed inbetween converter and heatsink.


Ok, that clears that up. Thanks
fuzzbass
drane2 wrote:
Anybody have a lead on a source for the card edge connectors that isn't a Taiwan based ebay seller? Preferably in the states?


I accidentally over ordered from a Chinese merchant (they were so cheap I did not notice). I can sell you a set, and I'm in Florida.
Altitude909
What is the source of this "voice card assembly guide"? There are mistakes in there: 499R 27 highlighted, 28 parts in the BOM (R79 is missing), R151 isnt mentioned in the BOM or the build doc
Eric the Red
Pando wrote:
Here my one of the first tries. It sings pretty good.

https://soundcloud.com/user-635888456/dd-brblues-test1/s-pQDmj


Damn!! That brassy Sound is beautiful!

Rock on my friend Rockin' Banana! Rockin' Banana! Rockin' Banana! Rockin' Banana!
needspeed
Altitude909 wrote:
What is the source of this "voice card assembly guide"? There are mistakes in there: 499R 27 highlighted, 28 parts in the BOM (R79 is missing), R151 isnt mentioned in the BOM or the build doc


The only official documentation is on the Deckards Dream website and essentially there is none. The community has developed some documentation, but there is no guarantee of correctness.

The voice cards are intentionally missing R151, R146, R40 and R45 and are not represented in the official BOM.

The silkscreen and the BOM are all that is needed to build the DDRM along with some help here and common sense.......Steve
Minigorille
Im the source for the voice card build guide.
I just added 499 - R79 Resistor.
Thanks
Altitude909
Minigorille wrote:
Im the source for the voice card build guide.
I just added 499 - R79 Resistor.
Thanks


Thanks, that doc speeds things up considerably. You might want to add R151 to the DNF page, caught that later
JanneI
Altitude909 wrote:
Minigorille wrote:
Im the source for the voice card build guide.
I just added 499 - R79 Resistor.
Thanks


Thanks, that doc speeds things up considerably. You might want to add R151 to the DNF page, caught that later


Yes, I used it with the BOM and also noticed that 499ohm missing. Nice job, made my build much faster! Thanks!
TemplarK
Will there be more DiY kits of the Deckards made available in the future or was it a one off deal and you had to be there?
synthcube
you can still order the full pcb set here:

http://www.deckardsdream.com/product/deckards-dream-kit-2

and we continue to make the parts kit available as well:

http://synthcube.com/cart/ddrm-deckard-s-dream-kit
livewire
All gone. seriously, i just don't get it
synthcube
we remain hopeful that they will be restocked.
spneca
Does anybody know the status of the enclosures? I think I read they were supposed to ship in December, but I still haven't heard anything. I've been finished with all the PCBs for over a month and just need the case to be done. I'm anxious to be able to actually use this.
JanneI
spneca wrote:
Does anybody know the status of the enclosures? I think I read they were supposed to ship in December, but I still haven't heard anything. I've been finished with all the PCBs for over a month and just need the case to be done. I'm anxious to be able to actually use this.


Facebook build group: 1-2 weeks and then they should start shipping them.
spneca
JanneI wrote:
spneca wrote:
Does anybody know the status of the enclosures? I think I read they were supposed to ship in December, but I still haven't heard anything. I've been finished with all the PCBs for over a month and just need the case to be done. I'm anxious to be able to actually use this.


Facebook build group: 1-2 weeks and then they should start shipping them.


Thanks!
Pando
BOM updated to Rev 1.1.0 - DIP16 socket count has been corrected to 108.

http://www.deckardsdream.com/downloads/DD-BOM-REV1.0.zip
needspeed
Pando wrote:
BOM updated to Rev 1.1.0 - DIP16 socket count has been corrected to 108.

http://www.deckardsdream.com/downloads/DD-BOM-REV1.0.zip


Thanks.....First page updated to reflect these changes......Steve
Brinsow
For anyone, as the Black Corp full build guide has been published at http://www.deckardsdream.com/build

I compiled it into a page by page PDF, which to me scrolls a bit better than the endles webpage.
located here: https://ufile.io/05neb, until 30 days from now.
    as PDF,
    and Word file (linked images), should someone want to edit and improve.

PSU was not included.

Will the today's anounced expander be DIY as well?
https://www.instagram.com/p/Bdw9JfSh7qf/?taken-by=blackcorporation_jp
needspeed
Brinsow wrote:
For anyone, as the Black Corp full build guide has been published at http://www.deckardsdream.com/build

I compiled it into a page by page PDF, which to me scrolls a bit better than the endles webpage
located here: https://ufile.io/05neb, until 30 days from now.
    as PDF,
    and Word file (linked images), should someone want to edit and improve.

PSU was not included.

Will the today's anounced expander be DIY as well?
https://www.instagram.com/p/Bdw9JfSh7qf/?taken-by=blackcorporation_jp


Thank you for doing this as it is very helpful. The expander will be available as pre-built and as a kit......Steve
sduck
Brinsow wrote:
For anyone, as the Black Corp full build guide has been published at http://www.deckardsdream.com/build

I compiled it into a page by page PDF, which to me scrolls a bit better than the endles webpage.
located here: https://ufile.io/05neb, until 30 days from now.


Note that this is posted on one of those weird pay sites where to download for free takes extra time. As this is small it's not too bad, at maybe 10 minutes here. Just watch what you click on. Considering there are so many free options that don't charge to download at full speed you might want to consider finding one of those. Dropbox would work fine for this. Or google docs.

And also note that this or Roman's current docs aren't really any kind of build guide - unlabeled pictures of the parts going in don't really help anybody. Come on folks, adding labels as to what parts are in the pictures would not take that long - do it!
needspeed
sduck wrote:
Brinsow wrote:
For anyone, as the Black Corp full build guide has been published at http://www.deckardsdream.com/build

I compiled it into a page by page PDF, which to me scrolls a bit better than the endles webpage.
located here: https://ufile.io/05neb, until 30 days from now.


Note that this is posted on one of those weird pay sites where to download for free takes extra time. As this is small it's not too bad, at maybe 10 minutes here. Just watch what you click on. Considering there are so many free options that don't charge to download at full speed you might want to consider finding one of those. Dropbox would work fine for this. Or google docs.

And also note that this or Roman's current docs aren't really any kind of build guide - unlabeled pictures of the parts going in don't really help anybody. Come on folks, adding labels as to what parts are in the pictures would not take that long - do it!


Fully agree this is not a real build guide, but I have downloaded and will post so it gets on the Wiki I am hoping......Steve
ffont
Regarding the build guide, I've been preparing an interactive version of the guide provided by Roman. I did not say anything before because I was waiting for the final version with the annotations provided by Roman. He said it would be done last Tuesday but apparently things got delayed. I asked him via FB and private message but got no answer. I sent emails to Bob as well in the past but they never got back to me. Anyway, I guess the build guide is not a priority right now.

See the work in progress interactive guide here: https://ffont.github.io/ddrm-interactive-build-guide/. Let me stress that this is work in progress smile The order of the pics is not always right and there are many things to improve here and there. But will be useful to see how it's going to be once I update it after the release of the final version of the official guide. Maybe you can help insisting Roman to finish the guide smile

BTW: if Roman is reading this: higher resolution versions of the pictures would really help here. When doing the zoom it's a bit poor :(
roglok
ffont wrote:
Regarding the build guide, I've been preparing an interactive version of the guide provided by Roman. I did not say anything before because I was waiting for the final version with the annotations provided by Roman. He said it would be done last Tuesday but apparently things got delayed. I asked him via FB and private message but got no answer. I sent emails to Bob as well in the past but they never got back to me. Anyway, I guess the build guide is not a priority right now.

See the work in progress interactive guide here: https://ffont.github.io/ddrm-interactive-build-guide/. Let me stress that this is work in progress smile The order of the pics is not always right and there are many things to improve here and there. But will be useful to see how it's going to be once I update it after the release of the final version of the official guide. Maybe you can help insisting Roman to finish the guide smile

BTW: if Roman is reading this: higher resolution versions of the pictures would really help here. When doing the zoom it's a bit poor :(


cool. i know you said this was WIP but you might consider optimisation for mobile devices. keyboard control is nifty but should be used as ancillary navigation only. a lot of builders will probably use touch-based tablet or handheld devices...
ffont
hi,
nice suggestion. I might add prev and next buttons so it also works fine in tablets. Also I'm not sure how the zoom works in a mobile device. I'll probably need to add button as well for it.

cheers
Synesthesia
any news on the cases - panels ?
roglok
ffont wrote:
hi,
nice suggestion. I might add prev and next buttons so it also works fine in tablets. Also I'm not sure how the zoom works in a mobile device. I'll probably need to add button as well for it.

cheers


hey, how about letting a plugin do the heavy lifting for you, e.g.
http://photoswipe.com/
ffont
Yeah that plugin might be just perfect smile
I'll have a look and maybe change the whole thing once final version is released. It's just that sometimes it's just more fun to build the things yourself wink
needspeed
Synesthesia wrote:
any news on the cases - panels ?


They are in the finishing stage and Andrew is hoping to ship in a couple of weeks form his latest update......Steve
synthcube
for anyone still hoping to jump on the ddrm phenom, we have a few component kits left, and just a handful of full kits --that include the pcb set--- still left

http://synthcube.com/cart/ddrm-deckard-s-dream-kit?search=ddrm&descrip tion=true
Brinsow
ffont wrote:
Regarding the build guide, I've been preparing an interactive version of the guide provided by Roman. I did not say anything before because I was waiting for the final version with the annotations provided by Roman. He said it would be done last Tuesday but apparently things got delayed. ..........(

Ah even better.
Would the current version of the build guide be BOM 1.0.6?

At least for the Output board, as R2 is not yet the same as R3, R4 at 22R, which was changed as from 1.0.7?
itstoms
I have a Q for someone smarter than me.

I ended up deciding on using the Alfa CEM3340s in my build, as I'm going more of a budget (hah) route, and don't mind not sticking with non-OEM stuff. According to Alfa the chip will operate fine in the same application that the regular CEMs would. They state, though, that they work best with a 51k resistor attached to pulse out (10k is used in DDRM). I'm wondering a few things:

-Switching the pulse output resistor to 51k won't adversely affect my build.
-If a chip fried and I was to replace an Alfa with an original, the 51k wouldn't be an issue.
-If there is any other reason I should just stick with 10k.

Hit me with that sweet knowledge This is fun!
fuzzbass
itstoms wrote:
I have a Q for someone smarter than me.

I ended up deciding on using the Alfa CEM3340s in my build, as I'm going more of a budget (hah) route, and don't mind not sticking with non-OEM stuff. According to Alfa the chip will operate fine in the same application that the regular CEMs would. They state, though, that they work best with a 51k resistor attached to pulse out (10k is used in DDRM). I'm wondering a few things:

-Switching the pulse output resistor to 51k won't adversely affect my build.
-If a chip fried and I was to replace an Alfa with an original, the 51k wouldn't be an issue.
-If there is any other reason I should just stick with 10k.

Hit me with that sweet knowledge This is fun!


You may just end up being the one who figures this out. I recommend you buy at least two CEM3340 to populate one voice card, and then compare.
groove


I lined mine up on a pair of 1x2s on the bench and I'm going to populate them all in parallel, so I don't have to repeat the Where's Waldo 8 times. Hopefully it'll go just a little bit faster that way. I will have to triple check everything so I don't make a mistake on all 8 boards, but I think that's a good thing.
fuzzbass
groove wrote:


I lined mine up on a pair of 1x2s on the bench and I'm going to populate them all in parallel, so I don't have to repeat the Where's Waldo 8 times. Hopefully it'll go just a little bit faster that way. I will have to triple check everything so I don't make a mistake on all 8 boards, but I think that's a good thing.


Number of solder welds on a single voice card: 1116. zombie
Pando
Hehehehe. A sea of solder....

groove
fuzzbass wrote:
Number of solder welds on a single voice card: 1116. zombie


Funny, I was curious about that but didn't bother to count. I'm under no delusions I will be finished soon.
needspeed
Roman Filippov on CoolAudio 3340: R6/R112 should be 330K instead of 300K on the voice cards
R162/R167 should be 26K1 instead of 22K6 on the motherboard. He has not commented on the Alpha.......Steve
noddyspuncture
needspeed wrote:
Roman Filippov on CoolAudio 3340: R6/R112 should be 330K instead of 300K on the voice cards
R162/R167 should be 26K1 instead of 22K6 on the motherboard. He has not commented on the Alpha.......Steve


... can you imagine if he told you that all those SMD caps need to be a different value... eek!
needspeed
noddyspuncture wrote:
needspeed wrote:
Roman Filippov on CoolAudio 3340: R6/R112 should be 330K instead of 300K on the voice cards
R162/R167 should be 26K1 instead of 22K6 on the motherboard. He has not commented on the Alpha.......Steve


... can you imagine if he told you that all those SMD caps need to be a different value... eek!


Oh my now that would be fun!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
spneca
Sorry if this is slightly off topic, but the expander kit is up for preorder.

http://www.deckardsdream.com/product/deckardss-dream-expander-kit-preo rder
itstoms
spneca wrote:
Sorry if this is slightly off topic, but the expander kit is up for preorder.

http://www.deckardsdream.com/product/deckardss-dream-expander-kit-preo rder

I need to hear a demo! Any kind soul at NAMM to take a video?
Brinsow
itstoms wrote:
I need to hear a demo! Any kind soul at NAMM to take a video?

Only one I could find yet.
Deckard Dream. In combination with the Expander?
http://www.sonicstate.com/news/2018/01/25/live-blog-namm-2018-thursday  /
scrol down to 16:54 post.
mome rath
Pando wrote:
Here my one of the first tries. It sings pretty good.

https://soundcloud.com/user-635888456/dd-brblues-test1/s-pQDmj


holy moly
captnapalm
In case it's helpful to others, I just created a new Mouser cart using BOM 1.1.0. I substituted anything that was out of stock except the Switchcraft jacks with equivalent parts.

This *does not* include any of the group buy components I got from Synthcube, like sliders, CEMs, or Cincon converters , or the ST Link programmer because I already have one.

https://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=5e6c 5f3da9

Obviously not guaranteed to be correct, check my work yada yada.
itstoms
Brinsow wrote:
itstoms wrote:
I need to hear a demo! Any kind soul at NAMM to take a video?

Only one I could find yet.
Deckard Dream. In combination with the Expander?
http://www.sonicstate.com/news/2018/01/25/live-blog-namm-2018-thursday  /
scrol down to 16:54 post.

I found that one this morning as well. I really hope sonic state did a more in depth video with Roman/BlackCorp.
Brinsow
captnapalm wrote:
In case it's helpful to others, I just created a new Mouser cart using BOM 1.1.0. I substituted anything that was out of stock except the Switchcraft jacks with equivalent parts.
This *does not* include any of the group buy components I got from Synthcube, like sliders, CEMs, or Cincon converters , or the ST Link programmer because I already have one.

https://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=5e6c 5f3da9

Obviously not guaranteed to be correct, check my work yada yada.


Those heatsinks, Cincon M-C092, I received two pairs, so 4. Instead of the two I was expecting. According to the Mouser site they should come as one per packaging.
Error on their end?
Minigorille
Blackcorportaion custom case for SIS/MI6 - one of their agent requested to be able to bring his Deckardsdream synthesizer on mission. Custom built in Japan, two XY joystick can be mapped to VCA/VCO parameters trough a pin modulation matrix. The capacitive touch keyboard as a unique design to allow for maximal expression across pitch and octave in full polyphony.

NO KIT AVAILABLE, SORRY GUYS

fuzzbass
Brinsow wrote:
captnapalm wrote:
In case it's helpful to others, I just created a new Mouser cart using BOM 1.1.0. I substituted anything that was out of stock except the Switchcraft jacks with equivalent parts.
This *does not* include any of the group buy components I got from Synthcube, like sliders, CEMs, or Cincon converters , or the ST Link programmer because I already have one.

https://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=5e6c 5f3da9

Obviously not guaranteed to be correct, check my work yada yada.


Those heatsinks, Cincon M-C092, I received two pairs, so 4. Instead of the two I was expecting. According to the Mouser site they should come as one per packaging.
Error on their end?


Same here. I thought it was my mistake, but Mouser's description and the datasheet all read like you get exactly 1. So I have an extra pair, if anyone regrets not ordering, PM me. I don't have spare thermal pads however.
groove
Did I miss an update on the DIYHub cases? I ordered mine ages back and at last update I thought it was expected to ship in December. I can see being finished with the build in another week or three...
Globus
Hello all. Thanks very much for taking the time to post all of the helpful build related stuff on here. I am not on the facebook and the official webpage has been not too useful, so to all here my gratitude

I finally received the last of my parts shipments yesterday (too poor to buy them all at once) and it works. A good result for my first DIY build of anything.

I wonder if anyone knows anything about implementation of a sustain pedal with this thing? I am clueless about MIDI and am assuming it must be possible. Surely this option would not be left out of the fuctionality?

Also, has anyone heard a single example of the expander? A bit funny that they should 'introduce' it at NAMM, by not demonstrating the thing.
itstoms
groove wrote:
Did I miss an update on the DIYHub cases? I ordered mine ages back and at last update I thought it was expected to ship in December. I can see being finished with the build in another week or three...

I emailed Andrew out of curiosity yesterday and he said that the first 100 are ready and are shipping out this week. The rest are coming soon.
Markat
Minigorille wrote:
Blackcorportaion custom case for SIS/MI6 - one of their agent requested to be able to bring his Deckardsdream synthesizer on mission. Custom built in Japan, two XY joystick can be mapped to VCA/VCO parameters trough a pin modulation matrix. The capacitive touch keyboard as a unique design to allow for maximal expression across pitch and octave in full polyphony.

NO KIT AVAILABLE, SORRY GUYS



Sound likely.
Pando
Globus wrote:
I wonder if anyone knows anything about implementation of a sustain pedal with this thing? I am clueless about MIDI and am assuming it must be possible. Surely this option would not be left out of the fuctionality?


You will need to turn on CC control in the menus, default is OFF. Go to settings and it should be listed under MIDI, and set it to ON, which turns on mod wheel also control and all external control via CC.

This should work, assuming of course that you have your pedal connected to your keyboard controller and it sends out MIDI CC pedal when you press it.
fuzzbass
Globus wrote:
Hello all. Thanks very much for taking the time to post all of the helpful build related stuff on here. I am not on the facebook and the official webpage has been not too useful, so to all here my gratitude

I finally received the last of my parts shipments yesterday (too poor to buy them all at once) and it works. A good result for my first DIY build of anything.

I wonder if anyone knows anything about implementation of a sustain pedal with this thing? I am clueless about MIDI and am assuming it must be possible. Surely this option would not be left out of the fuctionality?

Also, has anyone heard a single example of the expander? A bit funny that they should 'introduce' it at NAMM, by not demonstrating the thing.


I don't have any inside knowledge, but patience WRT the expander is warranted. I recall a previous prototype was disappointing and Roman elected to start over. The wait will be worth it if the ring modulator even approaches the one on a real CS-80, which is not your typical ring mod, but rather one that some think is the best on any synth, ever. You turn it on and then pull the entire rank of related sliders slowly toward yourself (or down). Pick up hat off the floor.
Globus
Thanks Pando. That worked, sort of. It sustains, but not how I would like it to. Hopefully when the missing sustain controls arrive on expander, so too will the original sustain pedal behaviour.

I have encountered a few bugs in the behaviour, not sure if it's my fault or the firmware.

the Detune slider functionality is a bit of a mess.
Also, minimum settings on Portamento/glissando slider still has some effect. Glissando is a bit screwy. It should be glorious as on my CS-50
minumum attack time on both VCF EGs is screwy. have to move slider up a little otherwise it has slow attack.

Are these things general bugs or is my quality control lacking?

Regards
Globus
Yes the original CS ring mod is terrific. I have one in my CS-50. Such a great instrument really, my one is a bit of an oddball. Seems like an early prototype. Different presets and the IG series ICs on the boards are still labelled Mitsubishi! I know they made them for Yamaha, but I hadn't seen any such examples of the chips without the Yamaha IG00xxx labelling. Anyway, I will await eagerly the expander, and any and all updates, fixes and general things on this subject
Pando
Globus wrote:
Thanks Pando. That worked, sort of. It sustains, but not how I would like it to. Hopefully when the missing sustain controls arrive on expander, so too will the original sustain pedal behaviour.

I have encountered a few bugs in the behaviour, not sure if it's my fault or the firmware.

the Detune slider functionality is a bit of a mess.
Also, minimum settings on Portamento/glissando slider still has some effect. Glissando is a bit screwy. It should be glorious as on my CS-50
minumum attack time on both VCF EGs is screwy. have to move slider up a little otherwise it has slow attack.

Are these things general bugs or is my quality control lacking?

Regards


Firmware is being actively worked on. The latest beta fixes most of these issues you describe, including Detune, Porta/Gliss, and Sustain settings. The beta is not publicly available, but a new release should happen soon.

The expander will give you the Sustain-I-II slider, but without it you can switch it in settings.
itstoms
Anyone know if there are keyboard splits or unison layering in this or upcoming firmware? Supersaws are my weakness...
Globus
I expected as much. I look forward to the firmware revision.
By sustain pedal behaviour, I meant the way you could (on CS60 and CS-80) use a pedal much like piano sustain, with the global sustain setting the release time. It's something I like to be able to do when playing.
I don't much care for the hold function which most synthesizers seem to lean towards.

Well, I think it's a pretty good unit, all things considered. A lot to like about it.
Pando
Globus wrote:
By sustain pedal behaviour, I meant the way you could (on CS60 and CS-80) use a pedal much like piano sustain, with the global sustain setting the release time. It's something I like to be able to do when playing.


The sustain pedal seems to function normally on mine, like it would on a piano, even with the Rev1.0 software (beta is up to 1.0.7 now with 1.1.0 being the future release version). Is your controller putting out the pedal CC?
itstoms
Finally found a video in which they explicitly mess with the expander. w00t
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2AN1yAJi78k
Globus
I'm not sure. I have it plugged in to a DX7 mkI which is the only keyboard modern enough for midi that I have. That being said, my DX is not in great shape anyway and isn't sending channel pressure aftertouch.

The bender, mod wheel and sustain are working with DD.

Will find a better controller for a more long term solution.

Thanks again Pando
noddyspuncture
itstoms wrote:
Finally found a video in which they explicitly mess with the expander. w00t
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2AN1yAJi78k


To say it's the new 'expander' that everyone's been waiting for - and they only touched slightly on the 'Ring Mod' - once... and to be honest it didn't sound anything like... seriously, i just don't get it

Hmmm... hmmm..... could that be why they didn't concentrate on it like you'd think they would have..? hmmm.....
fuzzbass
Globus wrote:
I'm not sure. I have it plugged in to a DX7 mkI which is the only keyboard modern enough for midi that I have. That being said, my DX is not in great shape anyway and isn't sending channel pressure aftertouch.

The bender, mod wheel and sustain are working with DD.

Will find a better controller for a more long term solution.

Thanks again Pando


Somewhere further back here, or maybe in the FB group, it was said that the current firmware does not respond to channel pressure, only key pressure.
livewire
You CS80 guys are a tough lot to please. lol

I would really like to hear something substantial from the expander before I plunk down another $1000 for this thing.

Or maybe a $200 Moogerfooger will do the trick? lol
Pando
fuzzbass wrote:
Somewhere further back here, or maybe in the FB group, it was said that the current firmware does not respond to channel pressure, only key pressure.


This is also fixed in all the betas (I've tested it, channel pressure works), and should be released shortly once Roman and his group get back to Japan.

You can join the FB group to get access to the betas. It's a pretty lively discussion going on over there.
fuzzbass
Pando wrote:
fuzzbass wrote:
Somewhere further back here, or maybe in the FB group, it was said that the current firmware does not respond to channel pressure, only key pressure.


This is also fixed in all the betas (I've tested it, channel pressure works), and should be released shortly once Roman and his group get back to Japan.

You can join the FB group to get access to the betas. It's a pretty lively discussion going on over there.


I'm already on the FB group but I keep low since I have not finished soldering yet (three voice boards to go!).

This is a complex project coming from a small (albeit competent) shop, and it is to be expected that there will be fixes both hardware and software. To be honest, I have held back a bit and waited for others to find the bugs, so that things would be past beta when I load the software.

I also encouraged needforspeedsteve to take the lead and he has indeed! He went on to find the worst bug so far: lack of polarizing keys in the BOM. (there is no emoticon that invokes both appreciation and sympathy, or I would put it here).
scanningthemirror
I've always wanted a CS-80, but they're out of my price range.

The website says " A very detailed building manual and large thru-hole components will allow even beginners to build this kit."

I was wondering how true this is.
I guess the guide hasn't been released yet so y'all don't know how detailed and beginner friendly it is.

I just can't imagine a synth build being beginner friendly.
Time consuming is one thing, I'm fine with that.
Altitude909
scanningthemirror wrote:
I've always wanted a CS-80, but they're out of my price range.

The website says " A very detailed building manual and large thru-hole components will allow even beginners to build this kit."

I was wondering how true this is.
I guess the guide hasn't been released yet so y'all don't know how detailed and beginner friendly it is.

I just can't imagine a synth build being beginner friendly.
Time consuming is one thing, I'm fine with that.


Yeah, he should probably mention the 900 surface mount caps in that description
sduck
scanningthemirror wrote:

The website says " A very detailed building manual and large thru-hole components will allow even beginners to build this kit."

I was wondering how true this is.


Not really very true. Someone with enough building experience to design this might have some very "different" ideas about what basic skills beginners have. While there seem to be some beginners having some success at putting this all together, I wouldn't recommend it without at first getting some serious soldering skills. The amount of newbie type questions and mistakes that have happened sometimes make me cringe.

scanningthemirror wrote:
I guess the guide hasn't been released yet so y'all don't know how detailed and beginner friendly it is.


I think what's been released so far as a "guide" is all we're going to get. If it doesn't provide enough guidance, don't go in the water.

I think quite a few people see the kit option and the claim about beginner friendliness and think, ooooh, I can save some money. But the reality is that unless you have some solid soldering skills and such you'll end up with a very expensive paperweight. Blow a solder or 3 and the troubleshooting to find them will make you go blind. Get a component in wrong, or even a voice card inserted wrong, and you may be starting from scratch.
Altitude909
So what are people using for the DC adapter? I supposed something ~ 3A is appropriate based on the reports from the people that finished..
roglok
sduck wrote:
scanningthemirror wrote:

The website says " A very detailed building manual and large thru-hole components will allow even beginners to build this kit."

I was wondering how true this is.


Not really very true. Someone with enough building experience to design this might have some very "different" ideas about what basic skills beginners have. While there seem to be some beginners having some success at putting this all together, I wouldn't recommend it without at first getting some serious soldering skills. The amount of newbie type questions and mistakes that have happened sometimes make me cringe.

scanningthemirror wrote:
I guess the guide hasn't been released yet so y'all don't know how detailed and beginner friendly it is.


I think what's been released so far as a "guide" is all we're going to get. If it doesn't provide enough guidance, don't go in the water.

I think quite a few people see the kit option and the claim about beginner friendliness and think, ooooh, I can save some money. But the reality is that unless you have some solid soldering skills and such you'll end up with a very expensive paperweight. Blow a solder or 3 and the troubleshooting to find them will make you go blind. Get a component in wrong, or even a voice card inserted wrong, and you may be starting from scratch.


well said. but there really should be more transparency and better communication. the price of the PCBs is very high and given the way the DIY kit was marketed i'd expect at least a few clarifying emails and much better documentation. i understand this is still being put together as the firmware ist still under development but it doesn't hurt to let your customers know...
jimfowler
Altitude909 wrote:
So what are people using for the DC adapter? I supposed something ~ 3A is appropriate based on the reports from the people that finished..


i'm using whatever is called for in the bill of materials. works just fine.
JanneI
Yes, it's a bit dangerous road to advertise this as a "beginner friendly diy project", but then again, what is a beginner? Perhaps someone who can solder? Identify parts? Has the basic tools? Perhaps build successfully few eurorack kits? Then I'd say yes, if the beginner has enough patience. It is a HUGE project to build, it will take weeks or months to finish.

But then you need to take account the cost of this project. What if the beginner screws up something? That is always a risk with diy and if you are afraid of that happening, go with the pre-build. It's not that much more expensive, especially when the hours building it are taken account.

I build mine in 2 weeks, 5-8h days and had zero problems with the build using only the BOM and the pcb's. I was amazed how well this thing was engineered and I've build a bunch of large scale diy projects, TTSH and crOwBX included.

just my 2 cents..
Altitude909
jimfowler wrote:
Altitude909 wrote:
So what are people using for the DC adapter? I supposed something ~ 3A is appropriate based on the reports from the people that finished..


i'm using whatever is called for in the bill of materials. works just fine.


Thanks, didnt even see it there..
Pando
Bam. Done.



jimfowler
That looks great! I guess you're the one and only DIYer with a case...
synthcube
lovely!
whyfarer
That looks fantastic! Did you install some blue LEDs inside the case?

Lastly, for those who have finished, approx how much total time did the build take you? I think I've seen 2ish weeks in this thread (fulltime), so 70-80 hours?
Techman
jimfowler wrote:
That looks great! I guess you're the one and only DIYer with a case...


No, not the only one
Techman
whyfarer wrote:

Lastly, for those who have finished, approx how much total time did the build take you? I think I've seen 2ish weeks in this thread (fulltime), so 70-80 hours?


70-80 sounds about right.
sduck
jimfowler wrote:
I guess you're the one and only DIYer with a case...


They just started sending them out. I suspect there's a lot of people like myself with little piles of parts in boxes accumulating, waiting for the time to put it all together.
Pando
whyfarer wrote:
That looks fantastic! Did you install some blue LEDs inside the case?

Lastly, for those who have finished, approx how much total time did the build take you? I think I've seen 2ish weeks in this thread (fulltime), so 70-80 hours?


Thanks! It's blue LE LED strip light pasted on the inside of the panel, wired to the power switch. $7.99 at Amazon.

For me it was probably around 50-60 hours, I didn't count closely. But it's oh so worth it. The instrument is just fantastic.

jimfowler
I'll add mine to the pile of 100% complete (and worth every minute and dollar spent) projects. Looking forward to the expander.

- Jim

needspeed
jimfowler wrote:
I'll add mine to the pile of 100% complete (and worth every minute and dollar spent) projects. Looking forward to the expander.

- Jim



Outstanding, and yes it is worth every minute of the build and will only get better with the expander and improved firmware.......Congratulations.......Steve
synthcube
wonderful!!

we're still waiting for our case here :(
sixbyseven
Here is mine...Also modified to Pando's ideas. I am however, still waiting for the small black M2.5 screws.... Then I can add the coloured caps. The little white Shruthi on top has Scott's CS80 filter board. If I get some time I am going to try to see if the DDRM can reach the same bottom end this little mono synth can muster.

On a side note.... Does anyone know how many DIY kits were sold?

Pando
^ dang, man, this looks awesome!
sixbyseven
Pando wrote:
^ dang, man, this looks awesome!


Thanks Ando. For the next one though, I am not using the DIY case. I am going to keep the same panel placement for position only, but I think I want to use different sliders (larger ones with pot to board wires), and even try using a larger screen (same 4 pin interface with a ribbon cable). Build it into a wooden cabinet with some extra bells and whistles. Definitely going to give it some more thought.

Todd
Pando
sixbyseven wrote:
Pando wrote:
^ dang, man, this looks awesome!


Thanks Ando. For the next one though, I am not using the DIY case. I am going to keep the same panel placement for position only, but I think I want to use different sliders (larger ones with pot to board wires), and even try using a larger screen (same 4 pin interface with a ribbon cable). Build it into a wooden cabinet with some extra bells and whistles. Definitely going to give it some more thought.

Todd


That's great Todd, if you can find an old CS-80 shell, hehe, build it into that one, and put a larger LED where the program sliders are below the lid. Those LED-tip sliders would look great as well. Sky's the limit what you can do! grin
noddyspuncture
Pando wrote:

That's great Todd, if you can find an old CS-80 shell, hehe, build it into that one, and put a larger LED where the program sliders are below the lid.


If anyone does find a CS80 to gut and use the shell as suggested... please let me know - you can off-load the unwanted innards in my direction...! cool
JJCS88
I've finallllly completed my build! It sounds fantastic!

Only 1 mistake along the way. Put a diode out in backwards but luckily it didn't cause any damage.

A quick question about the max attack time on the envelopes.

At the moment it says 1.0s - is there anyway of making this a bit longer or is this a case of waiting for new firmware?

(Same applies for the min/max LFO rate which I also saw an option to change)

Thanks!
Pando
JJCS88 wrote:
I've finallllly completed my build! It sounds fantastic!

Only 1 mistake along the way. Put a diode out in backwards but luckily it didn't cause any damage.

A quick question about the max attack time on the envelopes.

At the moment it says 1.0s - is there anyway of making this a bit longer or is this a case of waiting for new firmware?

(Same applies for the min/max LFO rate which I also saw an option to change)

Thanks!


Congrats on your build!!! This thing is just fantastic. Some demos are starting to come out; it can replicate the sound of CS-80 very closely to the point where it's hard to tell the difference.

In Settings under Time menu, max attack rate can be changed to 100 seconds. Same with LFO rate, minimum LFO rate can be changed configured from 0.1 to 5.0Hz, and maximum LFO from 10Hz to 45Hz.

To go to Settings, hold the Shift button (left bottom) and then press the right button under the display.
JJCS88
Yeah, I have found the time menu but for some reason it doesn't allow me the alter the 1.0 secs for the attach time or the LFO rates. Does this mean I have installed the firmware incorrectly or the the wrong version?

Cheers
LED-man
i finished my DDRM last weekend, but i have a problem with the output level.
the DDRM is very quiet, the headphone volume looks ok (but i cant compare it to a other device, so this level is maybe louder on other devices.)
i replaced the Volume,Output and MIX opamps, but without success.
i tried 2 voice cards too.
i checked on the mainboard an hardwareboard the resistor and capacitor values.
groove
LED-man wrote:
i finished my DDRM last weekend, but i have a problem with the output level.
the DDRM is very quiet, the headphone volume looks ok (but i cant compare it to a other device, so this level is maybe louder on other devices.)
i replaced the Volume,Output and MIX opamps, but without success.
i tried 2 voice cards too.
i checked on the mainboard an hardwareboard the resistor and capacitor values.


Do your voice card levels look good if you probe at the test points? How about at IC51 which does the summing from the voice cards? If you're good through there, you're probably having an issue somewhere around the VCA/op-amps that do the mix and output leveling(IC56, IC57, IC58, IC52, IC53).

EDIT: one more thing to check - if you go into the settings menu and go to calibration menu you can check the values for all the sliders. It's worth running through that if you haven't already to make sure that they're all tracking.

I'm sure you already know, but just in case, the schematics are here:

Schematics

It's well worth all the hours to build and troubleshoot - beautiful synth!
Pando
LED-man wrote:
i finished my DDRM last weekend, but i have a problem with the output level.
the DDRM is very quiet, the headphone volume looks ok (but i cant compare it to a other device, so this level is maybe louder on other devices.)
i replaced the Volume,Output and MIX opamps, but without success.
i tried 2 voice cards too.
i checked on the mainboard an hardwareboard the resistor and capacitor values.


Is it quiet for both voices equally?

If the volume in the headphone jack is ok, only one VCA stage comes after that in the signal path to the output. This is IC52 and IC53 on page 25 of the motherboard schematic. Swap the 2164 chips to see if the problem moves, check the component values carefully.

I highly recommend you join the FB group, it has tons of activity, and problems are usually solved quickly. We've had all kinds of issues - wrong components, broken resistors, bad sockets, reversed diodes, damaged traces,etc.. None of them have been caused by BOM or bad boards. It just takes some detective work to find the exact area where the problem is.
LED-man
Thx.
Due to another issue i send the board to a friend to replace the processor;)
haternob
Does anybody know what hardware is used to secure the heat sinks to the cincon power blocks?

I was sent the heat sinks and thermal pads but no screws, nuts, washers etc and I'm struggling to work out what I need hmmm.....
captnapalm
haternob wrote:
Does anybody know what hardware is used to secure the heat sinks to the cincon power blocks?

I was sent the heat sinks and thermal pads but no screws, nuts, washers etc and I'm struggling to work out what I need hmmm.....


3mm screws. I used some that were about 5mm long. The holes in the Cincons are threaded so you can put one on each side (if you want to secure them to the PCBs too).
haternob
captnapalm wrote:
haternob wrote:
Does anybody know what hardware is used to secure the heat sinks to the cincon power blocks?

I was sent the heat sinks and thermal pads but no screws, nuts, washers etc and I'm struggling to work out what I need hmmm.....


3mm screws. I used some that were about 5mm long. The holes in the Cincons are threaded so you can put one on each side (if you want to secure them to the PCBs too).


Thanks! thumbs up
Globus
Hi all, I just received my DD case but it really seems to be too narrow in the height department. Does anyone have the measurements of their case?
I think the manufacturer has screwed up somehow. (apart from the fact it says "Deckard's Dreams" on the rear)
The front panel fits fine, but trying to get the in the case is another story. The motherboard is too tall by a good several millimetres.
Of course, I could be overlooking something here. Maybe if there were an actual build guide or something similarly crazy. Ha

Thanks
captnapalm
Globus wrote:
Hi all, I just received my DD case but it really seems to be too narrow in the height department. Does anyone have the measurements of their case?
I think the manufacturer has screwed up somehow. (apart from the fact it says "Deckard's Dreams" on the rear)
The front panel fits fine, but trying to get the in the case is another story. The motherboard is too tall by a good several millimetres.
Of course, I could be overlooking something here. Maybe if there were an actual build guide or something similarly crazy. Ha

Thanks


I had this same head scratcher when it was time to put the assembly in the case. You have to break off the narrow top and bottom sections of the mother board. I used a pair of pliers and rocked it back and forth one section at a time.
Globus
Thanks Captnapalm. That seems ridiculous to me, but i'll give it a go. Maybe the kind of thing they should mention? Well, i'll try that when I have a chance.
livewire
Globus wrote:
Thanks Captnapalm. That seems ridiculous to me, but i'll give it a go. Maybe the kind of thing they should mention? Well, i'll try that when I have a chance.


One would think it's worth mention, or better yet the board is in a ready to assemble state. For your information, this issue and the bulk of DDRM discussion is going on at Facebook in the Deckards Dream Builders Group Thread. Please note that it is a closed group, so if you are not a member, you will need to ask to get in.
It is kind of hard to track the discussions and threads over there because of all the action, but there is a search feature available for that. Good luck on your build!
Globus
Thanks, but the thing is I am not on Facebook nor do I want to join up for whatever reasons. I already completed my build a couple months back and was since waiting for the case. Currently in the process of moving house so I can't really take a look at the PCB snapping option.
I must say that it seems like terrible business sense to offer what amounts to zero support for the customers. Particularly the early adopters who basically helped to get the business off the ground.
Globus
Had it not been for the community here, I might have been in a bit of a pickle. My gratitude to all concerned!
haternob
I finally managed to get through all of the soldering, cleaning, blowing parts, crying and my DD is now up and running. Everything is great apart from the broken screen (thanks China) and an issue with one of the voice boards where OSC2 is A LOT louder than the rest of the voices.

I should probably mentioning that I blew up a TL0641N (was either IC2 or IC7) that I installed backwards on that board (I'm getting good at this) but I have replaced it with a spare that I had. Maybe something else on the board got fried too? Any help and suggestions as to where to start troubleshooting would be great!
haternob
Bugger me with a fish fork, I'd left a resistor off the board! Thankfully it's all working now!
mOBiTh
haternob wrote:
Bugger me with a fish fork, I'd left a resistor off the board! Thankfully it's all working now!


hihi
needspeed
haternob wrote:
I finally managed to get through all of the soldering, cleaning, blowing parts, crying and my DD is now up and running. Everything is great apart from the broken screen (thanks China) and an issue with one of the voice boards where OSC2 is A LOT louder than the rest of the voices.

I should probably mentioning that I blew up a TL0641N (was either IC2 or IC7) that I installed backwards on that board (I'm getting good at this) but I have replaced it with a spare that I had. Maybe something else on the board got fried too? Any help and suggestions as to where to start troubleshooting would be great!


At least you did not blow up your ARM chip!!!!!!!!!!!! Congratulations of a successful build I hope you really enjoy this remarkable instrument......Steve
needspeed
I have updated the first post in this thread. Not much has happened except for the exciting release of REV1.2.1 firmware that6 has many improvements.

Also Roman has approved and recommends using TL6x over TL7x for voice cards eliminating the need for the fan and notably reducing power consumption.......Steve
Altitude909
needspeed wrote:
I have updated the first post in this thread. Not much has happened except for the exciting release of REV1.2.1 firmware that6 has many improvements.

Also Roman has approved and recommends using TL6x over TL7x for voice cards eliminating the need for the fan and notably reducing power consumption.......Steve


I wouldnt go so far as to say it eliminates the need for a fan, those cincons run hot any way you slice it and those big ass heatsinks are useless without air flowing over them. We need to find a quieter fan
needspeed
Altitude909 wrote:
needspeed wrote:
I have updated the first post in this thread. Not much has happened except for the exciting release of REV1.2.1 firmware that6 has many improvements.

Also Roman has approved and recommends using TL6x over TL7x for voice cards eliminating the need for the fan and notably reducing power consumption.......Steve


I wouldnt go so far as to say it eliminates the need for a fan, those cincons run hot any way you slice it and those big ass heatsinks are useless without air flowing over them. We need to find a quieter fan


Hey Roman said it, and I would say that only with measurements from inside the box with TL6x will we know what temperatures are reached and maintained in the box. That temperature may indeed be perfectly acceptable ........Steve
JanneI
needspeed wrote:
Altitude909 wrote:
needspeed wrote:
I have updated the first post in this thread. Not much has happened except for the exciting release of REV1.2.1 firmware that6 has many improvements.

Also Roman has approved and recommends using TL6x over TL7x for voice cards eliminating the need for the fan and notably reducing power consumption.......Steve


I wouldnt go so far as to say it eliminates the need for a fan, those cincons run hot any way you slice it and those big ass heatsinks are useless without air flowing over them. We need to find a quieter fan


Hey Roman said it, and I would say that only with measurements from inside the box with TL6x will we know what temperatures are reached and maintained in the box. That temperature may indeed be perfectly acceptable ........Steve


I already measured temp inside with tl06x, without fan. 3h playing at room temp and no significiant temp rise inside the case. Results on thr fb build group, somewhere..
needspeed
JanneI wrote:
needspeed wrote:
Altitude909 wrote:
needspeed wrote:
I have updated the first post in this thread. Not much has happened except for the exciting release of REV1.2.1 firmware that6 has many improvements.

Also Roman has approved and recommends using TL6x over TL7x for voice cards eliminating the need for the fan and notably reducing power consumption.......Steve


I wouldnt go so far as to say it eliminates the need for a fan, those cincons run hot any way you slice it and those big ass heatsinks are useless without air flowing over them. We need to find a quieter fan


Hey Roman said it, and I would say that only with measurements from inside the box with TL6x will we know what temperatures are reached and maintained in the box. That temperature may indeed be perfectly acceptable ........Steve


I already measured temp inside with tl06x, without fan. 3h playing at room temp and no significiant temp rise inside the case. Results on thr fb build group, somewhere..


Thank you very much for providing objective information that shows there is no need for a fan if one chooses to go without.....Thanks.....Steve
JanneI
needspeed wrote:
Thank you very much for providing objective information that shows there is no need for a fan if one chooses to go without.....Thanks.....Steve


Found it!

From Facebook build group, written by me:
"Temperature.. Not sure if this was already discussed but my build is without the fan, with tl064's on voicecards, TL074's on the motherboard and with heatsinks for cincons. After 3-4h of playing temp is still below +30C. I think we TL064 builders are okay without the fan, don't you think?"
sduck
Thanks for the updates folks! Keep them coming!
oberling
sduck wrote:
Thanks for the updates folks! Keep them coming!

not willing to enter facebook at any near or distant future I can only very much second that! thumbs up
Thank you also from me! applause
sixbyseven
I also built 64/62s on voice and 74/72s on the main and the unit does not need a fan. It gets a tiny bit warm.
whyfarer
Is the main issue with the fan audible noise? I ask because I already have a ton of TL07* from my synthcube parts order and would prefer to use them if possible.

Second question, are there suggested order of operations for testing? I finished my MOBO last night ( hyper ) and I already have my power board built. At what point can I test powering the unit on? Can I power on without any voice cards and test programming vis STLINK? Can I power on with all the ICs left off as a safety check? <Insert more questions like this here>?

Basically, what is the suggested method to test the build as you go with minimal damage risk?

Thanks all
needspeed
whyfarer wrote:
Is the main issue with the fan audible noise? I ask because I already have a ton of TL07* from my synthcube parts order and would prefer to use them if possible.

Second question, are there suggested order of operations for testing? I finished my MOBO last night ( hyper ) and I already have my power board built. At what point can I test powering the unit on? Can I power on without any voice cards and test programming vis STLINK? Can I power on with all the ICs left off as a safety check? <Insert more questions like this here>?

Basically, what is the suggested method to test the build as you go with minimal damage risk?

Thanks all


I am running all TL7xs and there is no issue except they use more power and generate more heat. The fan noise is not an issue for me.

Yes you can power on without voice cards as well as test the PSU on its own. Check the power rails to ground on the PSU and voice card headers to ensure no shorts to ground as a first step before you insert the PSU and power up. The ARM requires power from the main board for the ST-Link to work as it does not supply power to the ARM chip.

The Slider board does not take that long to build so I normally do not bother with programming the ARM until I have the Output, PSU, Main board and slider board done first. Again the best you can do is ensure that all power pins are not grounded as the SMT caps can short to ground if there is a solder bridge under them and then all is lost.

You can test first with no chips but if all is good on power and ground not much will happen until you chip it up......Steve
whyfarer
needspeed wrote:
whyfarer wrote:
Is the main issue with the fan audible noise? I ask because I already have a ton of TL07* from my synthcube parts order and would prefer to use them if possible.

Second question, are there suggested order of operations for testing? I finished my MOBO last night ( hyper ) and I already have my power board built. At what point can I test powering the unit on? Can I power on without any voice cards and test programming vis STLINK? Can I power on with all the ICs left off as a safety check? <Insert more questions like this here>?

Basically, what is the suggested method to test the build as you go with minimal damage risk?

Thanks all


I am running all TL7xs and there is no issue except they use more power and generate more heat. The fan noise is not an issue for me.

Yes you can power on without voice cards as well as test the PSU on its own. Check the power rails to ground on the PSU and voice card headers to ensure no shorts to ground as a first step before you insert the PSU and power up. The ARM requires power from the main board for the ST-Link to work as it does not supply power to the ARM chip.

The Slider board does not take that long to build so I normally do not bother with programming the ARM until I have the Output, PSU, Main board and slider board done first. Again the best you can do is ensure that all power pins are not grounded as the SMT caps can short to ground if there is a solder bridge under them and then all is lost.

You can test first with no chips but if all is good on power and ground not much will happen until you chip it up......Steve


Thanks, Steve. I'll check for shorts and give it a whirl. I came home and started in on the hardware board and after 90 minutes I'm pretty close to done. Much faster than the mobo!
audiog33k
what is the value of C214?
Chrutil
audiog33k wrote:
what is the value of C214?


Where do you find C214?
I don't see it on the BOM.
audiog33k
Quote:
Where do you find C214? I don't see it on the BOM.


Exactly, it's not on the build list, but it's "stuffed" in the pictures of completed Deckard's main boards. It's between two of the blue connectors. Here's a picture of my main board, with C214 missing.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BxnJfQ5mV0uGbEx0cVJ2cVdVeXRLdnZJZjdHU zUzNnN0dkEw/view?usp=sharing[/quote]
captnapalm
audiog33k wrote:


Exactly, it's not on the build list, but it's "stuffed" in the pictures of completed Deckard's main boards. It's between two of the blue connectors. Here's a picture of my main board, with C214 missing.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BxnJfQ5mV0uGbEx0cVJ2cVdVeXRLdnZJZjdHU zUzNnN0dkEw/view?usp=sharing


that looks like a C124 to me... wink
audiog33k
Quote:
that looks like a C124 to me... wink


Ha! Right? "Bob" from Black Corporation in Tokoyo-to says he thinks it's not needed. Maybe it was an undocumented option. Waiting for confirmation from "Bob".
captnapalm
audiog33k wrote:
Quote:
that looks like a C124 to me... wink


Ha! Right? "Bob" from Black Corporation in Tokoyo-to says he thinks it's not needed. Maybe it was an undocumented option. Waiting for confirmation from "Bob".


I'm saying I think it really is a C124, which is 2.2uF according to the BOM.




audiog33k
Quote:
I'm saying I think it really is a C124, which is 2.2uF according to the BOM.


Crap, I didn't catch that. My tech said "C214", so I just kept repeating what he said. I see now! Duh! Thanks!
synthcube
'Bob' really is Bob smile
jimfowler
*comment removed*
KlangGenerator
Which are the correct standoffs for mounting the OLED display? The M2 5mm ones are too slim and almost fit through the holes...
JanneI
KlangGenerator wrote:
Which are the correct standoffs for mounting the OLED display? The M2 5mm ones are too slim and almost fit through the holes...


Almost fit, but not really. Those are the ones to use.
audiog33k
We got the Deckard's Dream completed. Sounds great! Only having "one" issue:

Cards 3, 4 and 7 all sound different. 3 has less attack or high end. 4 is much louder and distorted, and 7 is super quiet. My tech is looking over it. We looked over it a bit yesterday and even flipped the order of the cards to make sure the problem wasn't on the main board. The problems changed location with the flip of the cards in the predictable manner. Wondering if anyone else had similar issues. Assuming it's resistor mismatches somewhere and hoping not bad components. Going to try the test points to see what we come up with.
KlangGenerator
JanneI wrote:
KlangGenerator wrote:
Which are the correct standoffs for mounting the OLED display? The M2 5mm ones are too slim and almost fit through the holes...


Almost fit, but not really. Those are the ones to use.


Ok, thanks. Maybe I will add some washers to make the standoffs sit stable.
ultravox
audiog33k wrote:
We got the Deckard's Dream completed. Sounds great! Only having "one" issue:

Cards 3, 4 and 7 all sound different. 3 has less attack or high end. 4 is much louder and distorted, and 7 is super quiet. My tech is looking over it. We looked over it a bit yesterday and even flipped the order of the cards to make sure the problem wasn't on the main board. The problems changed location with the flip of the cards in the predictable manner. Wondering if anyone else had similar issues. Assuming it's resistor mismatches somewhere and hoping not bad components. Going to try the test points to see what we come up with.


I had similar results when I first fired up my DDRM. Check IC orientation.
jimfowler
You can also try recalibration. My first power up had a weird high pitch whistle on one of the voices. Running the calibration a second time fixed the problem.
audiog33k
Quote:
I had similar results when I first fired up my DDRM. Check IC orientation.


So far we found:

card 7: 2 open circuit traces. Arrrrg!
card 3: misinserted TL072 with one of the legs not in the socket.

Things to watch for.
ndf
Something else to watch for: 5, 6, 8 and 9 all can look very similar in the font used for the silk screen. I accidentally mis-placed IC15 and IC16 on a hardware board - no real drama, but there are a lot of 5s, 6s, 8s and 9s in the project smile Check your digits!

ps: thanks to everyone who has contributed officially or otherwise!!
KlangGenerator
So I finally finished assembling my DD yesterday. Very happy except for two things.

1. On one voice card the LPF is cutting off all frequencies of OSC B above from maybe 500hz. Calibrating doesn't help. Checked the voice card several times but could not find any mistakes.

2. The voice allocation is behaving odd. Example: I play a chord with the left hand that uses voice 7. While holding the chord I play a melody with the right hand. Even though I have 5 voice cards left, DD only uses voice 8 for the notes being played with the right hand. The result is that the notes cut each other off. I am quite sure this is software related, but wanted to know if others also experienced this.
needspeed
KlangGenerator wrote:
So I finally finished assembling my DD yesterday. Very happy except for two things.

1. On one voice card the LPF is cutting off all frequencies of OSC B above from maybe 500hz. Calibrating doesn't help. Checked the voice card several times but could not find any mistakes.

2. The voice allocation is behaving odd. Example: I play a chord with the left hand that uses voice 7. While holding the chord I play a melody with the right hand. Even though I have 5 voice cards left, DD only uses voice 8 for the notes being played with the right hand. The result is that the notes cut each other off. I am quite sure this is software related, but wanted to know if others also experienced this.


I am not a good keyboard player so I am happy to play a 2-3 note cord with my left hand and same with the right. What I do know is tat voice 8 only fires if 7 is in use. As to the card issue I will look at the schematic as there is a capacitor that is crucial to the VCFs envelope timing I just forget whcih one as I have had that happen to me.......Steve
KlangGenerator
needspeed wrote:
I am not a good keyboard player so I am happy to play a 2-3 note cord with my left hand and same with the right. What I do know is tat voice 8 only fires if 7 is in use. As to the card issue I will look at the schematic as there is a capacitor that is crucial to the VCFs envelope timing I just forget whcih one as I have had that happen to me.......Steve


I am also talking about simple three note chords. When voices 5, 6 and 7 are in use for the chord, DD assignes voice 8 for the next note being played. But even though voices 1 to 4 are unused, only voice 8 plays when 5 to 7 are being held. This is not nice when I want to play a melody with merging notes with my right hand.
KlangGenerator
Another question: is there any advantage of using Bootloader Rev. 2.0 over Rev 1.0?
Chrutil
KlangGenerator wrote:
needspeed wrote:
I am not a good keyboard player so I am happy to play a 2-3 note cord with my left hand and same with the right. What I do know is tat voice 8 only fires if 7 is in use. As to the card issue I will look at the schematic as there is a capacitor that is crucial to the VCFs envelope timing I just forget whcih one as I have had that happen to me.......Steve


I am also talking about simple three note chords. When voices 5, 6 and 7 are in use for the chord, DD assignes voice 8 for the next note being played. But even though voices 1 to 4 are unused, only voice 8 plays when 5 to 7 are being held. This is not nice when I want to play a melody with merging notes with my right hand.


Try switching to Sustain mode II and see if that makes a difference.
There should be a setting somewhere in the menu.
KlangGenerator
Chrutil wrote:

Try switching to Sustain mode II and see if that makes a difference.
There should be a setting somewhere in the menu.


Good idea, but in Sustain Mode II it's even worse. All notes cut each other off.
needspeed
KlangGenerator wrote:
Chrutil wrote:

Try switching to Sustain mode II and see if that makes a difference.
There should be a setting somewhere in the menu.


Good idea, but in Sustain Mode II it's even worse. All notes cut each other off.


Do you do FaceBook as I would take this to the DDRM users group as there may be some additional help there...Steve
KlangGenerator
needspeed wrote:
KlangGenerator wrote:
Chrutil wrote:

Try switching to Sustain mode II and see if that makes a difference.
There should be a setting somewhere in the menu.


Good idea, but in Sustain Mode II it's even worse. All notes cut each other off.


Do you do FaceBook as I would take this to the DDRM users group as there may be some additional help there...Steve


No Facebook, but feel free to share this over there... thumbs up
JanneI
Have you checked that DDRM is NOT in MPE mode?
mOBiTh
Has anyone tried upgrading the mix/output opamps to OPAs?

Also, is the pot on the output board for global tuning? Can't see it discussed anywhere.
KlangGenerator
JanneI wrote:
Have you checked that DDRM is NOT in MPE mode?


Nope, poly aftertouch mode. So you can't reproduce this behavior with your DDRM?

Maybe I should redo the installation process with bootloader 2.0. First time I used bootloader 1.0.
KlangGenerator
Also I find the tuning quite unstable. If I tune all 8 voices it sounds great. But when I turn it on the next day some of the voices are off a few cents. I always have to recalibrate each time I use DDRM again.
needspeed
KlangGenerator wrote:
Also I find the tuning quite unstable. If I tune all 8 voices it sounds great. But when I turn it on the next day some of the voices are off a few cents. I always have to recalibrate each time I use DDRM again.


Do you let it warm up first and then its out of tune????
KlangGenerator
Well, I waited around 5 minutes. That is usually enough for all my polys to be in tune.

What about the voice issue? Anybody here who's DDRM behaves the same?
needspeed
KlangGenerator wrote:
Well, I waited around 5 minutes. That is usually enough for all my polys to be in tune.

What about the voice issue? Anybody here who's DDRM behaves the same?


I have built 4 so far and they have been generally stable over time but when first turned on need to warm up a bit, I just never timed it. But retune is so fast its not an issue for me at least
KlangGenerator
needspeed wrote:
KlangGenerator wrote:
Well, I waited around 5 minutes. That is usually enough for all my polys to be in tune.

What about the voice issue? Anybody here who's DDRM behaves the same?


I have built 4 so far and they have been generally stable over time but when first turned on need to warm up a bit, I just never timed it. But retune is so fast its not an issue for me at least


4??? eek! Holy crap! After I finished mine, I promised myself never again to do a project with 10.000 solder points. Did you connect them all together? Mr. Green

So what about the voice assignment. Do yours get stuck at voice 8 when you hold a three-note chord using voices 5-7?
KlangGenerator
This is what I am talking about:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FlQRHzc0qbg&feature=youtu.be
mOBiTh
KlangGenerator wrote:
This is what I am talking about:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FlQRHzc0qbg&feature=youtu.be


that looks like an easy bug to fix, have you notified (hohum) Black Corp?
KlangGenerator
mOBiTh wrote:


that looks like an easy bug to fix, have you notified (hohum) Black Corp?


Yes, I already contacted them.
needspeed
KlangGenerator wrote:
needspeed wrote:
KlangGenerator wrote:
Well, I waited around 5 minutes. That is usually enough for all my polys to be in tune.

What about the voice issue? Anybody here who's DDRM behaves the same?


Thanks for posting the video example. What version of firmware are you running as that looks familiar to something I noticed on Rev1.0 and there is a newer version available as well as accurately reproduced CS-80 original sound pre-sets

I have built 4 so far and they have been generally stable over time but when first turned on need to warm up a bit, I just never timed it. But retune is so fast its not an issue for me at least


4??? eek! Holy crap! After I finished mine, I promised myself never again to do a project with 10.000 solder points. Did you connect them all together? Mr. Green

So what about the voice assignment. Do yours get stuck at voice 8 when you hold a three-note chord using voices 5-7?


4 for myself would be a lot, I have some special causes I am building them for and I am keeping 2 for myself - think stereo.

I actually provide support for Black Corp in the USA, so I also have done a number of repairs on mainboards that have blown ARMs and SMTs. Unfortunately there are a few mistakes that can take out the SMT chips on a DIY build.

Still have 3 more Rev 1s and a Rev2 to build, so don't count the solder joints HEE HEE HEE Oh and then the expanders and the Kijimi of my!!!!!!!!!!!!
mOBiTh
Hey guys

What's the score with the OLED?

Is it I2C or SPI and do they need configuring as such? (They normally do in my experience)

Can't find any documentation on this...

Cheers

M
captnapalm
mOBiTh wrote:
Hey guys

What's the score with the OLED?

Is it I2C or SPI and do they need configuring as such? (They normally do in my experience)

Can't find any documentation on this...

Cheers

M


from the BOM:
0.96” I2C IIC SPI SERIAL 128X64 WHITE OLED DISPLAY

Some that people have received have a couple of pin locations swapped for install. Many people including myself have received broken ones from the eBay link on the BOM.
oberling
mOBiTh wrote:
Hey guys

What's the score with the OLED?

Is it I2C or SPI and do they need configuring as such? (They normally do in my experience)

Can't find any documentation on this...

Cheers

M


https://cdn-shop.adafruit.com/datasheets/SSD1306.pdf
It depends on wich pins you tie to low (see page 15, Table 8-1).

I received mine (also from ebay) and they work fine with the Adafruit I2C example on an arduino.
mOBiTh
@oberling & @captnapalm

I've also had broken ones (and missing in the post ones) and now one with the Vcc and ground pins reversed (contrary to the advert photo...).

So from section 8.1 it looks like I2C (well of course SCL and SDA sounds more like I2C than SPI anyway).

Running the arduino test on whatever you receive seems like a very good idea here! Guinness ftw!
sixbyseven
KlangGenerator wrote:


4??? eek! Holy crap! After I finished mine, I promised myself never again to do a project with 10.000 solder points. Did you connect them all together? Mr. Green

So what about the voice assignment. Do yours get stuck at voice 8 when you hold a three-note chord using voices 5-7?



Hahahahahaha.....never again? hahahahahaha! once you build the dark synth, oh, you will want to build more.

we're not worthy
mOBiTh
Hey guys, here's some information regarding a rather painful experience I encountered with the DDRM sliders!

So, after finishing my build and testing I noticed some sliders were jumpy, only working at one end of the scale, only working when the levers were depressed or pushed to one side, or simply not working at all.

This issue only affected my 100KB 30mm sliders (batch 1736 - synthcube group buy), and I have 21 failures out of 51 sliders! That's pretty astonishing eek!

I removed and dismantled one (will post some pics in due course) and it appears that on some sliders the pin->track rivet connection is open circuit or intermittent (depending on lever pressure).

It's not clear to me why I had so many failures and they're not being reported all over the place - it's a standard part and I've soldered thousands of these, or similar, before and this is the first time I've encountered a failure.

I wondered whether it was a heat issue, but after hot-air desoldering all 51 (argh), something that generated a lot more heat than the initial soldering process, I still have exactly the same failure count, so I think this can be discluded.

One thing I did notice was that on some, by twisting the pin about the rivet connection (as far as you can, which isn't far) you could make the connection come good, although this is hardly reliable!

My suggestion would be to definitely check all pins on all parts before soldering them in. Note that some measure ok when applying some lateral pressure to the pins with your probes (i.e. the connection is intermittent), so keep an eye out for these ones!

I've ordered a set of 10KB equivalent from digikey so that I'm guaranteed a different batch.

Dead Banana








synthcube
this one has us mystified... with over 5000 of this shipped out via the group buy and kits etc, those more statistically fluent than we could possibly comment on the probability that 21 of the same 51 slider set are bad.. remarkable really!
Of course we're going to refund mobith and return these to the manufacturer. We've not been successful in finding any reference to Bourns slider quality issues at this level of failure rate.
Chrutil
We are seeing exactly the same thing with my buddies DDRM.
He had it over on my workbench earlier this week to see if we could sort it out and we counted 20+ sliders that were so unstable they were unusable.
Pushing on them up or sideways would usually make them work, but as you let go they would end up all over the place.
Only the larger sliders were affected, none of the smaller ones with or without center detent have a problem.
We both got Synthcube stock and every single one of my sliders works just fine so clearly some batches work fine and others have a 50% failure rate. Luckily it seems to be rather rare.
mOBiTh
synthcube wrote:
this one has us mystified... with over 5000 of this shipped out via the group buy and kits etc, those more statistically fluent than we could possibly comment on the probability that 21 of the same 51 slider set are bad.. remarkable really!
Of course we're going to refund mobith and return these to the manufacturer. We've not been successful in finding any reference to Bourns slider quality issues at this level of failure rate.


Thanks for the refund offer, will pop you an email cool Clearly not your fault of course and I hope your supplier compensates you adequately.

Sorry to hear I'm not alone - it's statistically not surprising though - will post in the facebook group too and hopefully we can at least minimise peoples' desoldering pain...

For anyone wondering, they do come out with a bit (quite a bit!) of patience by first sucking (and potentially braiding) the worst of the solder out and then using hot air. I personally wouldn't attempt this without a hot air rework station Dead Banana
whyfarer
FWIW I've got my DDRM 95% built, including having the hardware board completed. I sourced parts from a synthcube full kit and I had 1 slider with issues. Still unusual but also not nearly as bad as 20-40% failure rates. Desoldering my one bad one was still quite the pain (no rework station) and I feel for others who had much more to deal with.

On the plus side of things, I finished 4 more voice cards Friday night and stayed up quite late noodling around Dead Banana . It was (and is) glorious. With only 3 voice cards completed I was enjoying myself but wasn't so sure if the whole endeavor had been a good choice for me. With power turned up to 7 voices (and getting my linnstrument fully hooked up correctly for pitch sliding) I have totally changed my tune and I am quite thrilled hyper

Here's a rough noodle I laid down at 3am after finishing the build:

https://soundcloud.com/why-farer/7voice-ddrms-first-cries

ps I can't for the life of me figure out how to embed soundcloud here, if anyone has tips please let me know...
batchas
whyfarer wrote:
https://soundcloud.com/why-farer/7voice-ddrms-first-cries

ps I can't for the life of me figure out how to embed soundcloud here, if anyone has tips please let me know...

Press quote and you'll see the tags I added.
[s]https://soundcloud.com/why-farer/7voice-ddrms-first-cries[/s]
mOBiTh
just remove the s from https!
whyfarer
Thanks for the soundcloud tips. I feel like I've tried those exact things before, but I'll give it a whirl again next time I'm ready to embed
ualslosar
Hi -
For my DIY build, not all the presets appear to work properly.

Pushing UP or DOWN buttons will change the tone on some presets, but not all.

I get no sound from preset 11, but hear the same tone from presets 31, 32, 33, 34, 35.

BTW - PNL appears to work correctly

- How do I begin to troubleshoot this problem? Where do I start to look for a problem in this build, please?

Many Thanks
Larry
mr.m
Hi!

Since this is my first post, I have to start by thanking everyone here for all your posts which has taken me this far in completing the DD build.

I have managed to complete the whole kit with the unit working as it should (tested only with regular MIDI keyboard) except for two voices. So I really need some help in how to approach the troubleshooting...
The voice cards works but sound different. One has a higher sound level, a mellower tone and and often a shorter envelope. The other one has a brighter and thinner character to it.
What I've done so far is:
- Swapped board positions
- Swapped all V2164, TL064, TL062 and CEM3340
- Check all resistors and caps

I appreciate any advice, thanks!
batchas
mOBiTh wrote:
just remove the s from https!

Just removing the "s" (for "secure") will not embed the soundcloud file in the post. It will remain as a link to an URL.
If you look at my previous post, how soundcloud is embedded, you will see the "s" is still there thumbs up
whyfarer
Two things:

1) I wanted to give a shoutout to synthcube for their awesome customer service! I bought sliders from them for my DDRM build and had one bad one. I emailed them to ask if I could purchase a few sliders (replacement and a spare) from them directly since they're out of stock at mouser. Even though the faulty sliders are directly from the manufacturer, they offered to send me them for free! applause

2) And now a question. One of my my voice cards seems to pop/click at the beginning of every note. I've been over the joints and they all look good. Is the next step to start swapping ICs to see if any of them are to blame? If so, do you suggest just swapping all of them or is there a more regimented method to go about the debugging?

Thanks!
4teenth
Wavering on this one still...
Sorry if this has already been answered but:
I'm in the UK, what's the best way to get everything I need?
Brinsow
4teenth wrote:
Wavering on this one still...
Sorry if this has already been answered but:
I'm in the UK, what's the best way to get everything I need?


You mean to built the Deckard Dream?

Also from Europe, just made an Mouser account and ordered the majority there. Rest from the eBay links, local supplier, or named suppliers in the BOM, although some items were also advertised by others under an Deckard Dream deal(, such as voice chips).

Seemed a bit cheaper than synthcube, as wel as easier than trying to source each and individual part at a local suppliers.
sduck
There's a complete kit (pcbs, parts, case) for sale in the BST.
4teenth
Brinsow wrote:
4teenth wrote:
Wavering on this one still...
Sorry if this has already been answered but:
I'm in the UK, what's the best way to get everything I need?


You mean to built the Deckard Dream?

Also from Europe, just made an Mouser account and ordered the majority there. Rest from the eBay links, local supplier, or named suppliers in the BOM, although some items were also advertised by others under an Deckard Dream deal(, such as voice chips).

Seemed a bit cheaper than synthcube, as wel as easier than trying to source each and individual part at a local suppliers.


Thanks, I might go that route then.
4teenth
sduck wrote:
There's a complete kit (pcbs, parts, case) for sale in the BST.


Yeah, not sure I can come up with all the cash in one go though... Mmmmaybe...

Also there's a Rev 1 kit for sale - any idea what the difference between that and the rev 2 might be? (Again, sorry if it's been answered already...)
Brinsow
4teenth wrote:
sduck wrote:
There's a complete kit (pcbs, parts, case) for sale in the BST.


Also there's a Rev 1 kit for sale - any idea what the difference between that and the rev 2 might be? (Again, sorry if it's been answered already...)

Well, if you look in the shop,rev 2, DIY, the only mentioned difference is the case.

I do not expect any changes in the BOM, even if there were any, that shouldn't set you back a lot, if you already ordered components.
4teenth
Brinsow wrote:
4teenth wrote:
sduck wrote:
There's a complete kit (pcbs, parts, case) for sale in the BST.


Also there's a Rev 1 kit for sale - any idea what the difference between that and the rev 2 might be? (Again, sorry if it's been answered already...)

Well, if you look in the shop,rev 2, DIY, the only mentioned difference is the case.

I do not expect any changes in the BOM, even if there were any, that shouldn't set you back a lot, if you already ordered components.


I'm more wondering what changes/improvements were made in V2..
captnapalm
4teenth wrote:

I'm more wondering what changes/improvements were made in V2..


Roman has said that v2 of the prebuilt DDs have a locking card slot mechanism for holding the cards in place, and a separate 3.3v rail for the sliders to correct the jitter problems people have had with v1 (also being constantly improved in firmware updates). AFAIK he hasn't said whether these improvements will be in the v2 diy kits however.
ultravox
It's probably best to hold off on buying parts for Deckard's Dream v2 until the BOM is released. I believe there will be component changes that also includes IC's. Maybe even some items on the PSU due to lower power consumption.
KlangGenerator
I have a problem with my DDRM: During transportation the PSU card and two voice cards fell out of the headers. very frustrating After reseating them the 5v LEDs of the PSU card stay dark. Now the unit doesn't power up anymore. seriously, i just don't get it
KlangGenerator
Two legs of IC61 were clipped by the PSU card. d'oh!
ArguZ
Hello, does anyone have part designator documents or high res pictures of the main and hardware boards ?
I have encountered a wrong resistor value in one of my bags labeled incorrectly and have to desolder a 100.
The pics in the build guide are to low res and not labeled what is where.

Ah, found em , thanks Grahame smile
https://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/files/ddrmpcbscans_154.zip
highlandson
Has anyone seen any update on rev2? FAQ on the site says end of May 2018.
Pando
Attn Deckard's Dream users: Deckard's Dream Patch Editor is now available.

Demo (free) version allows opening bank, patch, and voice files and viewing the slider settings for each patch. You can also control DD remotely via MIDI. It has built-in keyboard control (using your computer keyboard) and a CS-80 style ribbon controller. Full version can save files also and randomize the patches.

Download link (Windows only):
https://drive.google.com/open?id=139IcCANbdjOIYvS6aVu7oSoUculzzEK2

User Manual (PDF):
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1xMHwV3TBTWAK5WPEw8NV0F6aiztP5ZnF

laur3nt
Dear all : According to Alfa, i spread the good new: After some common work last week with them on DD and AS3340, We can officially announce that Deckard is happy with theses chips hyper
Here are the values to update :
- FM input (initial current - solve the corrupted calibration) : R6/R112 to 390k
- 12V adaptation (supply current to internal 3340 Zener) : R39/R145 to 560r
- PWM Comparator output (minimize pwm control on frequency) : R22/R128 to 51k
laur3nt
laur3nt wrote:
Dear all : According to Alfa, i spread the good new: After some common work last week with them on DD and AS3340, We can officially announce that Deckard is happy with theses chips hyper
Here are the values to update :
- FM input (initial current - solve the corrupted calibration) : R6/R112 to 390k
- 12V adaptation (supply current to internal 3340 Zener) : R39/R145 to 560r
- PWM Comparator output (minimize pwm control on frequency) : R22/R128 to 51k


Ah yes... was my first post, so hello to everyone here !
sduck
Are these changes sanctioned by Romanf? Sorry, but I don't know who you or Alfa are...
laur3nt
sduck wrote:
Are these changes sanctioned by Romanf? Sorry, but I don't know who you or Alfa are...


Unfortunately Roman did not give any confirmation of a working Deckard with AS3340 chips (as far as I know).
Alfa is the company who makes the AS3340 chips, and me owner of Handmadesynthesizers.com

Sorry if my post looked a bit strange. I rarely come to forums, it's why I have never posted here and rarely on fb. Alfa asked me to spread the info, and I wanted to share as i seem to be the only people with a reliable solution for DD with AS3340 chips.
Hope this will help people who have a Deckard and bought these chips without any luck on make them acting well !
sduck
Ah, I see, thanks! I'll have to see what chips i have in this big box over here that I'm working on currently.
laur3nt
sduck wrote:
Ah, I see, thanks! I'll have to see what chips i have in this big box over here that I'm working on currently.


A big box for a big project ! Was glad to have it finished and running.
- I tested the DD with some cem3340 reg G too (to compare versus the as3340 ones). No noticeable difference for me.
ndf
Has anyone else built one of the DiY units with a DiY Hub case? I just noticed on the rear of one I have it is printed:

DECKARD'S DREAMS

(with an extra 's')

Is this normal, or by design? It looks completely different to the photo on the order page, and while the addition of DiY and "designed in Japan" make sense - the extra 'S' on the end of dream looks a little tacky.
sduck
That was the original name for the device, and so made it onto the case design. When the actual name was changed prior to the initial release, it got changed everywhere except for the first run of diy cases. So you (and I) have unicorn cases - one of a kind!
ndf
Thanks for the clarification sduck.

smile
mr.m
I have a problem with one of my voice cards.
If I turn off both square and saw I still here a sound (I think unfiltered) from the first oscillator.
I tried to swap IC's looking at the schematics, but I'm really a noob on these things.
Has anyone got an idea for what to look for? eek!
mr.m
mr.m wrote:
I have a problem with one of my voice cards.
If I turn off both square and saw I still here a sound (I think unfiltered) from the first oscillator.
I tried to swap IC's looking at the schematics, but I'm really a noob on these things.
Has anyone got an idea for what to look for? eek!


I looked and looked and found the remedy applause
The fix was to replace the DG202 IC.
(and also both oscillators were affected)
harti
Hello dear ddrm community, anyone who got the issue, that the bootloader was successfully installed on the ddrm with STM, but after launching ddrm in usb mode (USB sign is appearing on the ddrm panel), the PC is not mounting ddrm as a USD drive?
I checked the output voltage on the USB port and it is 5 V DC (as it should be) and between the data channels its ca 2,3V AC as measured with a multimeter.
Does anyone has an idea? Kind Rgs
sduck
It won't mount as a drive until it is formatted. You should get the notice when you connect it that it's uninitialized, and the computer can't recognize it until it is formatted.
harti
thanks sduck - meanwhile I found, that C283 was wrongly soldered and the correction lead to other problems (STM32 is unable to read out the ARM chip due to read protection (which cannot be removed)) ... so I think there´s still another "solder problem" on the mainboard to fix which I currently search for .... -----> A huge project for a DIY beginner like me <-----
JanneI
For the people not in the Facebook build group: there's a voice 1 & 2 buffer output mod which adds possibilities for DDRM. If you patch the same kind of sound for both voices and use these mono outputs hard-panned, you'll get a stereo synth out of DDRM. Add pwm sync and 2 cards per voice -mode and step into GX-1 world! smile

Use headphones for this demo:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZBOVpYz3mDs

I'll share the gerber files soon.
jimfowler
Very cool, JanneI.

While we're at it, does anybody know what's up with the expander? I'm not on FB.

- Jim
JanneI
Posted by Roman Filippov on August 7, 2018:
I'm finally happy with the results - gonna get preproduction boards end of this week. everything works so far.
here're the details:
- 2 mono inputs (summed before ringmod)
- stereo output + summed output
- analogue 1496 ring modulator with 3340 reference oscillator and 3310 EG
- DSP-based stereo chorus/tremolo, delay and reverb. each effect uses it's own DSP-chip, all dry/wet and feedback paths are analogue, based on 2164 VCAs and DG202 analogue switches
- Envelope is triggered by NOTE ON midi message
- sustain slider and 1/2 switch send midi out CC messages to control these parameters in DD
JanneI
Hi! Here's my gerber zip for the Deckard's Dream Voice 1 & 2 buffered outputs PCB, mod by pando. This is a add-on for REV1 that gives two extra separate mono outputs for Voice 1 & 2 before they are mixed. It doesn't change the normal signal path in any way. Basically this just adds a possibility to use both voice's separately instead of MIX I - II -slider. IE. program the same sound for both voices, pan hard right&left and you have a stereo output. See the youtube demo that I posted a while ago, use headphones!! ( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZBOVpYz3mDs ).

This pcb requires drilling the back side of the enclosure - two extra holes for the jack outputs and wiring 5 wires from the motherboard (mix1 bus, mix2 bus, +12v, -12v, ground).

And read pando's PDF documentation for this mod!


jimfowler
Thanks! If I have a trio of boards made by oshpark does anybody else want in?

- Jim
whyfarer
jimfowler wrote:
Thanks! If I have a trio of boards made by oshpark does anybody else want in?

- Jim


I'd be down.
captnapalm
jimfowler wrote:
Thanks! If I have a trio of boards made by oshpark does anybody else want in?

- Jim


I'd take 3 of them myself
jimfowler
Ok. Let’s see how many takers we get over the next week or so and then I’ll order what’s needed.
gigasturtz
got my Rev 2 boards yesterday, excited to get started with this build.
gigasturtz
four voice boards stuffed, four to go!
Chrutil
gigasturtz wrote:
four voice boards stuffed, four to go!


Cool, holding a pretty good pace there.
These voice cards are life draining, but so worth it in the end.
gigasturtz
Chrutil wrote:
gigasturtz wrote:
four voice boards stuffed, four to go!


Cool, holding a pretty good pace there.
These voice cards are life draining, but so worth it in the end.


i've put a couple of pretty long build days into it so far. hoping i can keep it up!
gigasturtz
finished my voice boards over the weekend but still waiting for my DC/DC converter from mouser :( lost a little bit of momentum since there isn't the possibility of completion yet.
gigasturtz
[s]https://soundcloud.com/gigasturtz/ddrm[/s]


finished my rev 2 build! really enjoying playing it and learning how to effectively manipulate it's voices.

Quick note for rev 2 builders: the 560 pF caps on the main board have the incorrect designations on the BOM (they didn't get updated from what they were in rev 1). I figured out where they belonged by stuffing the rest of the non-polar caps. The number of spaces left matched the number of these caps in the BOM so I put them there and it seems to be working fine.

I believe these to be the correct designations: C24 C236 C239 C244 C247 C248 C251 C256 C259 C262 C267 C269 C272
MikkelM
I am trying to flash my DD with the bootloader, but it makes trouble.

I can connect in Hotplug mode, in normal it states 'Core is hold in reset'.

When I connect in Hotplug mode and tries to flash the processor I get 'Read out protection is activated'.

I have measured C7 + C8 and gets 1.266V over the caps.
C6 reads 1.361V

C12 to C17 reads 3.3V

Any ideas how process from here?

Cheers

Mikkel
sines


bought my Pentanoise ICs from ElectricDruid after all
Visiblesound
Hi. I have a built Deckard's Dream that won't get past the firmware version display when I boot it up. I have re-installed several versions of firmware but no matter what version I use it just freezes on the firmware display screen. It froze up when I was looking through the menus and went on the master - slave page. It just froze up and upon cycling power only gets to the firmware display now. I think it needs some sort of hard reset for the settings but can't find any info anywhere. Can anyone help?

Thanks in advance!!
fuzzbass
If not already done, post this question over on the DD FB group. Better attendance.
fitzcarraldo
I have finally found the time to complete my Deckard. While it’s alive and making sounds I do have a problem with the second oscillator. It either remains quiet or emits far too loud bursts of either distorted or highly resonant sounds.

Here’s a video, in which I play with Osc B on to start with and then with Osc B switched off:
vimeo.com/317792320

I have removed voice cards and tried one at the time with the same results. Unless I made the same mistake on all 8 voice cards I think they can be ruled out as the culprit.

Any ideas where to look/concentrate my debugging?

Please don’t refer me to Facebook, I have no intentions of joining up. Not even for the sake of this synth.

Thanks!


Edit:
Here’s a second video, that might illustrate the problem better:
vimeo.com/317794397
jimfowler
It's been a while but I was able to resolve some similar odd behavior by re-flashing the firmware and re-calibrating.
mOBiTh
jimfowler wrote:
It's been a while but I was able to resolve some similar odd behavior by re-flashing the firmware and re-calibrating.


yep, it's important to do the deep calibration, not the shallow one! hihi
fitzcarraldo
Thanks for the tip. I did try that however.

I have also tried various versions of the firmware (1.2.5, 1.2.8 and 1.2.9).

Same result every time.
c0ntr4d1ct10n
So Ive just read somewhere that the prebuilt version is smaller in depth and lighter than the diy version because it uses more smd components?

Are there smd components on the prebuilt version that are significantly more difficult to solder than what most people are capable of? I'm not trying to be pretentious but i've only been soldering for 6 months and have found that after a number of Mutable Instruments builds, I have gotten over my shaky hand condition and I now much prefer smd soldering than through hole (I hate having to cut the legs each time they get in the way). Maybe I am just a weirdo.

The only things I have trouble soldering by hand are those legless quad pack chips (which I think are meant to be soldered using an oven).

I'm just thinking would an option for the mostly smd pcbs be cheaper to manufacture?
JanneI
c0ntr4d1ct10n wrote:
So Ive just read somewhere that the prebuilt version is smaller in depth and lighter than the diy version because it uses more smd components?

Are there smd components on the prebuilt version that are significantly more difficult to solder than what most people are capable of? I'm not trying to be pretentious but i've only been soldering for 6 months and have found that after a number of Mutable Instruments builds, I have gotten over my shaky hand condition and I now much prefer smd soldering than through hole (I hate having to cut the legs each time they get in the way). Maybe I am just a weirdo.

The only things I have trouble soldering by hand are those legless quad pack chips (which I think are meant to be soldered using an oven).

I'm just thinking would an option for the mostly smd pcbs be cheaper to manufacture?


There is no SMD diy option, DIY is through-hole only.
c0ntr4d1ct10n
JanneI wrote:
c0ntr4d1ct10n wrote:
So Ive just read somewhere that the prebuilt version is smaller in depth and lighter than the diy version because it uses more smd components?

Are there smd components on the prebuilt version that are significantly more difficult to solder than what most people are capable of? I'm not trying to be pretentious but i've only been soldering for 6 months and have found that after a number of Mutable Instruments builds, I have gotten over my shaky hand condition and I now much prefer smd soldering than through hole (I hate having to cut the legs each time they get in the way). Maybe I am just a weirdo.

The only things I have trouble soldering by hand are those legless quad pack chips (which I think are meant to be soldered using an oven).

I'm just thinking would an option for the mostly smd pcbs be cheaper to manufacture?


There is no SMD diy option, DIY is through-hole only.


I know that. Just wondering what the reason is for why there is no smd diy option.
fitzcarraldo
Sorry for the bump, but does nobody have any ideas what else I could try for my problem above?

Thanks!
Chrutil
fitzcarraldo wrote:
Sorry for the bump, but does nobody have any ideas what else I could try for my problem above?

Thanks!


From the videos it's not clear to me if this happens due to some external stimuli, like aftertouch - or if it is random and happens on and off if you just send MIDI note on and let it drone for a while with no other MIDI events.
It is also not clear to me that it happens on all voices. Looks to me like voice 2 is the main culprit, in particlular on the second video you hear the noise as soon as voice 2 is on, but there's not enough video to completely determine that.

An oscilloscope would be very useful tracking this down.
But best is to gather more evidence before even opening up the machine.
You said it happens on all voice cards - does it happen on all slots? The video seems to show it on slot 2 only.
Track this down further, and see if you can figure out if there is a particular control CV that is boosted, like VCF or Level, for example.
One thing I would try is to see if you can monitor the output of a voice card edge connector on the motherboard with an oscilloscope to see if these spikes are present from each voice, or if they are introduced after the voices are mixed - seems like before since it only affects voices B, but who knows. Check the schematics and look at pin 1 and 2 from the edge connector.

I would also monitor VCF-A vs VCF-B on the voice card connector to see if there are spikes in the incoming filter CV, and also look for other CV's that you think could be responsible for causing that sound if they spiked - if it happens to all voice card slots then it's probably either one of the incoming signals that are common to all cards - or after the voice card outputs, but before the A and B channels are mixed.

Somewhere in the signal path this noise is introduced, and tracing it to a CV path or audio path would be a great first step.

Finally, as you know, unfortunately the Black Corporation DIY build discussions seems to be happening on Facebook much more than Muff's.
With Facebook's focus on the "here and now" there is very little archive for the future and even though you may not want to sign up for Facebook I would advice you to sign up anyway.
Remember, you don't have to sign up as yourself, just create a "CompartmentalizedIdentity" or "DeckardsDreamBuilder" user with no friends and sign in with the browser set to 'private' or 'incognito' mode.

Keep us posted!
fitzcarraldo
Thanks Chrutil for all the pointers. I don’t think I will have time before the next weekend to start debugging again. I will let you know in any case about progress.

Cheers
campacasa
Communication with Black Corporation seems difficult, not receiving replies to mails I'm sending them through their website's contact form.

Does anyone know more about the Expander kit? Almost one year ago I have ordered one (together with the DDRM kit, which I have received end of last year). The revised version of the Expander built version is visible on the website, the kit still is the old one. But I had understood that the kit also will become like the new version. Then I'm also interested in a BOM for the Expander kit. Still needing to order a number of parts for the DDRM, which I'd like to combine with the Expander.

Thanks,
Peter
Chrutil
campacasa wrote:
Communication with Black Corporation seems difficult, not receiving replies to mails I'm sending them through their website's contact form.

Does anyone know more about the Expander kit? Almost one year ago I have ordered one (together with the DDRM kit, which I have received end of last year). The revised version of the Expander built version is visible on the website, the kit still is the old one. But I had understood that the kit also will become like the new version. Then I'm also interested in a BOM for the Expander kit. Still needing to order a number of parts for the DDRM, which I'd like to combine with the Expander.

Thanks,
Peter


I think you know about as much as anyone else.
I preordered the Expander in January last year and the Kijimi in March last year. Both over a year ago.
The Expander was delayed but now at least the prebuilt seems to be shipping and I do expect the pcb's to show up at some point, hopefully soon, but I haven't seen any information about it.
sduck
The last I heard was that they were going to start shipping the expander PCBs right after NAMM. That was almost 2 months ago, and still nothing.
JanneI
They basically stopped sharing info about their schedule before NAMM. Only explanation for this behavior (IMHO) is that there's something wrong with the design or manufacturing process, hence the undetermined delay. I still believe that it's BC's intension to deliver everything eventually, but when that day is, nobody knows. Might take another year, who knows..

One batch of pre-build expanders have been send to customers and at least REV2 users state that expander works fine. REV1 users have been reporting issues. Second batch of expanders are in hold, I think? DIYers don't have BOM, expander enclosures showed up but with mounting holes 5mm off eek! angry very frustrating Well, new ones will be sent and while there's no BOM yet this doesn't really matter.

If your fingers itch to build something, don't wait these. My 5 cents..
campacasa
Thanks for the Expander replies. So I'm not alone and it's not just me who may have missed something.

Then I'd better just order the missing parts for my DDRM and will hope that the Expander finally will arrive one day (and order parts again).

- Peter
campacasa
Well, surprise, surprise... Have I been too impatience or is this just coincidence. Today I received a mail from Black Corporation: "The DD Expander DIY kits WILL go out next week. Waiting on Roman for the BOM, which will hopefully also be out by then."

They also mention about a newsletter to come out shortly.

Now I might actually wait a little to make that combined component order.

Best regards,
Peter
synthcube
here's hoping!!
fitzcarraldo
Anyone based in London who would like to help me debug my DDRM build? See the issues I’m having in my previous post here here

I was planning to try it again today, following some of Chrutil’s helpful suggestions, but I realise I simply don’t have the experience and it could potentially take me forever and life’s currently too hectic as it is...

Oh and just to be clear, happy to pay, not expecting anyone to do this as a favour.

Please PM me if you’re up for it.

Thanks!
ultravox
fitzcarraldo wrote:
Anyone based in London who would like to help me debug my DDRM build? See the issues I’m having in my previous post here here

I was planning to try it again today, following some of Chrutil’s helpful suggestions, but I realise I simply don’t have the experience and it could potentially take me forever and life’s currently too hectic as it is...

Oh and just to be clear, happy to pay, not expecting anyone to do this as a favour.

Please PM me if you’re up for it.

Thanks!


Hi fitzcarraldo,
To my ears this sounds like a reversed IC (possibly a V2164). My first suggestion is leave the voice cards in their current locations and run a full calibration of all 8 cards.

Turn on all four oscillator switches. Move the Mix I / II slider to position "I" then play only single notes (not intervals, or triads). Listen for the distorted sound while watching the OLED to see which oscillator is the culprit. Be sure to cycle through all the voice cards in case there's more than one with an issue.

Then move the Mix slider to position "II" and repeat the above step.

When you find the card(s) with trouble, pull them out and look for reversed or improperly seated IC's. Note: a reversed V2164 needs to be replaced because it will be fried.
fitzcarraldo
Thanks ultravox,

It’s definitely not the voice cards.

I did spend some more time after all and am coming closer to the problem. But with my non-existent electronics skills I feel that I’m at the end of what I can do.

The basic problem is that the signal from Osc II is too hot and distorted. Again, if I listen to the raw signal from the card connector it is all fine. Osc I and II have the same volume and are both clean. The voice cards are perfectly fine (well, at least 7 of them are, but that’s a different issue).

I followed the signals and after the two electrolytic caps C288 and C289 both Mix 1 and Mix 2 are similarly strong and sound clean.

Then however after the two resistors (R220 for Mix 1 and R228 for Mix 2) the signal is massively attenuated for Mix 1, but only slightly attenuated for Mix 2. By massively attenuated I mean if you listen to the input signal at R220 at normal volume, you barely hear the output signal.

I have no idea which one of the two is right, Mix I is getting attenuated too drastically I believe, but then again, I am having problems with Mix 2 in the end.Should that 30k resistor really attenuate the signal that much?

By the way, I have swapped out all the ICs on the mother board, one by one to no avail.

If one of you has some more ideas I will give it another try, but I believe at this point I need someone with actual electronics knowledge to look at it.

Thanks, as always!
Techman
fitzcarraldo wrote:


I followed the signals and after the two electrolytic caps C288 and C289 both Mix 1 and Mix 2 are similarly strong and sound clean.

Then however after the two resistors (R220 for Mix 1 and R228 for Mix 2) the signal is massively attenuated for Mix 1, but only slightly attenuated for Mix 2. By massively attenuated I mean if you listen to the input signal at R220 at normal volume, you barely hear the output signal.

I have no idea which one of the two is right, Mix I is getting attenuated too drastically I believe, but then again, I am having problems with Mix 2 in the end.Should that 30k resistor really attenuate the signal that much


I would check your soldering around R228, C325 & R226 and make sure they are the correct values. Also check the soldering to the socket for IC57. If you still have problems then PM me. I’m in Barnet with a working DDRM. I’m sure between us we can sort this.
Chrutil
fitzcarraldo wrote:
Thanks ultravox,

The basic problem is that the signal from Osc II is too hot and distorted. Again, if I listen to the raw signal from the card connector it is all fine. Osc I and II have the same volume and are both clean. The voice cards are perfectly fine (well, at least 7 of them are, but that’s a different issue).

I followed the signals and after the two electrolytic caps C288 and C289 both Mix 1 and Mix 2 are similarly strong and sound clean.

Then however after the two resistors (R220 for Mix 1 and R228 for Mix 2) the signal is massively attenuated for Mix 1, but only slightly attenuated for Mix 2. By massively attenuated I mean if you listen to the input signal at R220 at normal volume, you barely hear the output signal.

I have no idea which one of the two is right, Mix I is getting attenuated too drastically I believe, but then again, I am having problems with Mix 2 in the end.Should that 30k resistor really attenuate the signal that much?

By the way, I have swapped out all the ICs on the mother board, one by one to no avail.

If one of you has some more ideas I will give it another try, but I believe at this point I need someone with actual electronics knowledge to look at it.

Thanks, as always!


Here's a fun one that is in a similar area that happened to me after my build.
"Now that my ddrm is up and running and I have spend a little time jammed through the presets I seem to have a bit of a problem. Osc II doesn't work correctly. Square, Saw or Noise is not there, all silent. The Sine works just fine though. It is the same for all four voice cards so perhaps some mix point somewhere."

After some advice I started probing the path in question and found this:

"As soon as I probed pin 14 on IC46 I got sound out of Osc II! Turns out the pin has no connection to the socket sleeve! Elusive as hell, will post a pic. Looks like the inner sleeve of the socket is missing or something. When I put the probe in, it shorts the socket to the pin and it's all good! "

Replacing the socket fixed the problem.
I'm guessing your issue could be similar if a pin only has a sporadic connection.

Thinking about this, I would try to figure out if it happens if Square and Saw are both off and then try to reproduce it with only Sine and then only Noise - since they have a different path and can help isolate the area.

synthcube
Just curious-- with the Expander DIY sets coming out imminently, will Expander build notes and questions remain in this thread or will there be a separate Expander build thread?
needspeed
Unless anyone objects I do not see why not. I can update the first page and place information there.........Steve
sduck
It might be more user friendly to start a new thread for the expander - this current thread is reaching critical mass, where finding info gets hard. Mixing in a lot of new info about the expander might make it even more difficult for someone building the DDRM to find any info needed.
ndf
Chrutil wrote:

Replacing the socket fixed the problem.


I also had a couple of minor issues that ended up being due to poor connection in a socket. Replacing the socket fixed the problem. I think that it might be worth (as recommended in another [url=/forum/viewtopic.php?t=204476&highlight=]thread[/url]) using sockets for flat pins or soldering ics on new builds.
Funch
I listened to some demos of this and its amazing.

Without reading the entire thread, I was wondering what the cost of parts totaled including the $1000 PCBs?

I have some basic soldering skills, understand things like static electricity affecting chips and put together a couple of simple circuits when I was Kid.

The website says that even a beginner could build this, is that accurate? Or should a beginner save up and buy the finished product?
synthcube
sduck wrote:
It might be more user friendly to start a new thread for the expander - this current thread is reaching critical mass, where finding info gets hard. Mixing in a lot of new info about the expander might make it even more difficult for someone building the DDRM to find any info needed.


we agree
sduck
Funch wrote:

Without reading the entire thread, I was wondering what the cost of parts totaled including the $1000 PCBs?


Synthcube sells (or sold?) a parts kit - look on their site. Can't remember the price offhand.

Funch wrote:
I have some basic soldering skills, understand things like static electricity affecting chips and put together a couple of simple circuits when I was Kid.

The website says that even a beginner could build this, is that accurate? Or should a beginner save up and buy the finished product?


This is highly misleading, and has been called many times in this thread. This is a huge project, and also very hard to troubleshoot if you get anything wrong. And the so-easy-a-beginner-could-do-it build guide never materialized - in fact there's no build guide that's any good. Get a dozen or so working smaller builds under your belt before attempting this one, if you want to spare yourself the frustration.
synthcube
We agree-- we would not recommend this for synth DIY beginners. It is, literally, one of the highest 'parts count' kits we offer-- hence the opportunity for difficulty is quite high. Even though there are many successful builds out there, and many experienced builders in this forum willing to lend their help, you owe it to yourself to 'work up to it' so that common DIY beginner lessons you might learn along the way dont' potentially damage such a big investment smile
Funch
Thank you both for the advise.
Coburn
Anyone here have any experience building the rev 2.1 kit? Just got mine and would appreciate any known issues/tips/tricks!

Just some initial observations for those ordering a 2.1: the "build guide" on Black Corps site is a little different; no case fan, so stop looking for one (seems like a change in ic's on the voice cards removed the need). Also, the PSU is quite different; no more heat sinks.

I'll post more as I go along.

BTW first post here, proud to be an official wiggler. Forgive my forum inexperience, be gentle it's my first time. w00t
synthcube
welcome welcome welcome!
Coburn
Moving right along; I/O board, PSU, Main Board are complete (mostly, see below). Power brick just arrived so time to start checking things out. I'm too much of a nub to post any photos yet, but here are some things to look out for in the Rev2.1 kit:

-On PSU, in the BoM, capacitor C10 occurs twice, the correction should be as follows: C8 = 330uF (10MM DIA / 5MM LS)

-I purchased the Synthcube parts kit, however C6 (Main Board) was sent in the wrong format. I received 2 SMD capacitors (didn't check values) instead of the one needed in the 5MM LS format (the 10uF capacitor, btw). No biggie, Mouser has these @ ~$0.80 each.

-Also, my IC sockets arrived all sorts of bojangled; fortunately only one DIP14 socket lost a pin, cheap to replace. Take a lookie at those early on so it doesn't throttle you later.

Case also just arrived. If DIY'ing has taught me anything; check your controls with the face plate before soldering all connections. Next is the hardware board, then begin the tedium of the voice cards. My fingers are fatigued already...
doublearon
Hi Coburn,

I just started my Rev 2.1 build today, also using the Synthcube kit. Appreciate the updates, I'll be tracking your progress!

Best of luck smile
wohali
I am late but have just finished my Rev 1.0 build, using the SynthCube kit. (I was waiting for the Expander to arrive, so I could build them both at the same time.)

As I refuse to use Facebook, I've gotten tips passed on from others who do use it and have access to that group, and wanted to share those ideas all here along with my own experiences:

    * The dsl-man.de wiki has lots of useful links to things, including: firmware download links and instructions, BOM changelog (all the way to Rev 1.1.0 for the original boards), assembly tips and the mod required to the voiceboards to add the CS-80's 30usec glitch to the sawtooth waveform. (I don't know if this is necessary with the Rev 2.1 or not, sorry.) If you make the BOM substitutions as listed, the "diode mod" from Facebook isn't necessary to get the unit to power up correctly.

    * I had a number of issues with the Synthcube kit. I had to spend about $100 more to get the correct number of capacitors and resistors, the correct OLED display module (the one provided had the wrong pinout), TL06x ICs to swap for the TL07x ICs, and better IC sockets.

    * As others have mentioned, a bunch of the Synthcube provided sockets are missing pins, so inspect carefully before you assemble. Further I found the 8-pin sockets to be of such poor quality that the ICs simply fell out of them, even with the IC pin legs spread wide to try and apply additional force. My recommendation is to only socket the more expensive chips (3340, 2164) and not bother socketing the opamps at all. This will cut down on the amount of sockets you need to buy.

    * A good thing to do is build the back panel board, then the PSU board, connect them via the 2-wire MTA156 cable, and test that the PSU puts out the right voltages before plugging it into the motherboard. You can then plug it into the motherboard, put one voice card in to Slot 1 (farthest away from the PSU card), and validate that the entire system is working right. I had good fortune this time; the only failures in my unit were a single bad transistor and a couple of faulty IC sockets.


I want to note that I'm grateful to SynthCube for having done the group buy / sale for the DDRM kits, and much of the above are quibbles that could afflict any kit sale - save the poor IC sockets, for which I'd much rather spend the extra money on proper turned/machined pin IC sockets (like those from Mill-Max) than deal with reliability issues down the road from these cheap ones.

I'm now moving on to my Expander build, once the parts arrive, and will post any comments here as I run into them.
Coburn
Thank you, Wohali, these are all great tips. I'm also reluctant to rejoin FB so I was really hoping folks were still watching this thread.

The differences in v1/v2 kits seems to be mainly in the PSU (no more heat sinks) and the opamps on the voice cards (cooler running ic's introduced, negating the need for a case fan.) Just last night I finished the hardware board and metered the psu. Luckily the only mistake made was very amateur and easy to fix: I installed an LED backwards. d'oh!

I just popped the PSU into the main board and nothing exploded! Metering looks good so far. Once this voice card is done I'll be able to test it.

Doublearon: also check the 14/16 pin headers (PBD1/PBD2) on the main board and hardware board. You should have received a male/female pair of each. Synthcube sent me all females. Whoops!
sduck
My synthcube parts kit came with millmax sockets, all in tubes, and none had any issues. Did you contact synthcube about your missing parts? They're usually really good about fixing problems like this. The parts kit I got was rigorously perfect, except for some minor parts changes that happened early on.
wohali
Coburn wrote:
The differences in v1/v2 kits seems to be mainly in the PSU (no more heat sinks) and the opamps on the voice cards (cooler running ic's introduced, negating the need for a case fan.)


So really just the same as the v1.1.0 BOM then? That's good to know.

I decided to put the provided heat sinks on the PSU card anyway. Since I didn't install the back-panel fan, I figured it'd help. And I swapped in the TL062/TL064 opamps to make it possible to do this.

sduck wrote:
My synthcube parts kit came with millmax sockets, all in tubes, and none had any issues.


My sockets were probably the eBay ones linked in the BOM, they were each stuck in a thin piece of styrofoam, in a separate white box marked "IC Sockets," and were definitely not Mill-Max quality. They look like they have little inserts in each pin that are intended to reduce their inner diameter, but some were absent. Someone earlier in this thread posted a pic of what one with a missing insert looks like. Maybe these are better than leaf spring types, but not by much.

sduck wrote:
Did you contact synthcube about your missing parts? They're usually really good about fixing problems like this. The parts kit I got was rigorously perfect, except for some minor parts changes that happened early on.


I sent two emails, but no response. I tried calling, and the voicemail box was full. Perhaps I was spam filtered out and they never check their voicemail? I dunno. I didn't think of trying to PM them here. It's entirely possible that they would have made good on it, but I felt like it wasn't worth bothering.
sduck
Maybe they were moving right when you emailed. They're really great about replying in general, so something must have gone wrong. And they're extremely active here, and will probably see this eventually.
Coburn
My sockets also arrived on a styrofoam boogie board and some couldn't handle the waves, man.

Synthcube has been a bit busy with the move lately; my VM was never addressed but they responded to my email within hours. I already had a Mouser cart going so I just ordered replacements there. I'm really not upset in any capacity towards them, this is a 6 bajillion piece kit and I can't expect everything to be perfect.
campacasa
Thanks for the various tips, Coburn and Wohali! I hope to share my own experiences in future as well (slow progress to get really started).

And same for me, I don't have and I will not have a FB account. I'm thankful for any tips and communication in this thread.

Wohali, which Expander kit version are you writing about? Earlier I wrote here that finally Black Corporation had let me know that the new Expander kits would soon go out. Unfortunately I haven't heard back again since then. Not so nice. At least I just see that the information on their DDRM shop page got updated (but no schedule shown).

Coburn, you've mentioned using the face plate to check the fitting of all controls. I know about that and did the same when building the TTSH. Question: We know that the case (and panel) for Rev. 2.1 is different from 1.0. At DIY Hub, however, they list just Rev. 2 (not explicitly 2.1). Am I right that is the same and you did get that one?

Thanks and best regards,
Peter
campacasa
Oh hey, and I just see that the Expander kit BoM now is available on the DDRM build page. Looks like things are moving a bit, there is hope...

- Peter
Coburn
campacasa wrote:
Question: We know that the case (and panel) for Rev. 2.1 is different from 1.0. At DIY Hub, however, they list just Rev. 2 (not explicitly 2.1). Am I right that is the same and you did get that one?


I don't believe there are any differences in the case between rev 2 and rev 2.1. I just ordered the rev 2 case and received it last week and it fits perfectly. I think the only real difference in cases (rev 1 vs rev 2) is the rev 2 doesn't have the case fan port and the rev 2 includes an additional din port for midi out. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong.
wohali
campacasa wrote:
Wohali, which Expander kit version are you writing about?


Pretty sure there's only a single Expander kit version/BOM so far. The BOM is also on the dsl-man.de wiki.

I noticed that there is a new bootloader (3.0) and new OS (1.3.0) for the DD as well; I presume this is necessary for Expander support, but it's hard to tell as there's no changelog included. There's a GitHub tracker for issue reporting:

https://github.com/ffont/official-ddrm-issue-tracker/issues

but it's not really useful to determine what got fixed, and when.

On the expander front: The bulk of my parts arrived today, so I should be able to get moving on the build shortly.
sduck
Lots of people have gotten the expander pcbs. I have mine, got here 2-3 days ago.
synthcube
wohali wrote:
I am late but have just finished my Rev 1.0 build, using the SynthCube kit. (I was waiting for the Expander to arrive, so I could build them both at the same time.)

As I refuse to use Facebook, I've gotten tips passed on from others who do use it and have access to that group, and wanted to share those ideas all here along with my own experiences:

    * The dsl-man.de wiki has lots of useful links to things, including: firmware download links and instructions, BOM changelog (all the way to Rev 1.1.0 for the original boards), assembly tips and the mod required to the voiceboards to add the CS-80's 30usec glitch to the sawtooth waveform. (I don't know if this is necessary with the Rev 2.1 or not, sorry.) If you make the BOM substitutions as listed, the "diode mod" from Facebook isn't necessary to get the unit to power up correctly.

    * I had a number of issues with the Synthcube kit. I had to spend about $100 more to get the correct number of capacitors and resistors, the correct OLED display module (the one provided had the wrong pinout), TL06x ICs to swap for the TL07x ICs, and better IC sockets.

    * As others have mentioned, a bunch of the Synthcube provided sockets are missing pins, so inspect carefully before you assemble. Further I found the 8-pin sockets to be of such poor quality that the ICs simply fell out of them, even with the IC pin legs spread wide to try and apply additional force. My recommendation is to only socket the more expensive chips (3340, 2164) and not bother socketing the opamps at all. This will cut down on the amount of sockets you need to buy.

    * A good thing to do is build the back panel board, then the PSU board, connect them via the 2-wire MTA156 cable, and test that the PSU puts out the right voltages before plugging it into the motherboard. You can then plug it into the motherboard, put one voice card in to Slot 1 (farthest away from the PSU card), and validate that the entire system is working right. I had good fortune this time; the only failures in my unit were a single bad transistor and a couple of faulty IC sockets.


I want to note that I'm grateful to SynthCube for having done the group buy / sale for the DDRM kits, and much of the above are quibbles that could afflict any kit sale - save the poor IC sockets, for which I'd much rather spend the extra money on proper turned/machined pin IC sockets (like those from Mill-Max) than deal with reliability issues down the road from these cheap ones.

I'm now moving on to my Expander build, once the parts arrive, and will post any comments here as I run into them.


with apologies for the delay-- thanks for the kit feedback-- first, its our policy to replace any missing/incorrect parts so please contact us via email on that issue-- with regards to ic sockets, we've been using the same supplier for machined pin sockets forever- so would appreciate it if you could help us by providing a picture or two of the bad ones-- we are trying to sort it out here in the shop too, wondering out loud if perhaps your kit got stuffed with some incorrect sockets, or? In any case happy to help resolve any open issues!
wohali
HI synthcube, thanks for commenting. Hope this info helps.

I got lucky - trash day is tomorrow so the bad sockets hadn't gone out yet!

Here's a side-by-side shot of a failed socket from the kit vs. a known good Mill-Max one. I've used a close-up lens to try and get better detail. You should be able to see the difference in quality (and the obvious defect) here.



In the kit socket, you can see a seam where the insert, a rolled piece of metal, meets itself. Presumably this is press-fit into the socket, and acts as a circular spring, wedging itself against the outer shell.

In the Mill-Max socket, the contact is seamless. I'm not sure how it's manufactured, but no seam is evident. The inner diameter is very uniform in size; the kit sockets don't show this same consistency.

As mentioned, the extraction force required on these sockets is lower, and this is very noticeable with the 8-pin sockets, where I can literally turn the socket upside down and the IC falls out of it (yes, with the legs on the IC spread as wide as possible before insertion).

Not once in over 20 years of ordering these Mill-Max sockets have I ever received one missing the inner contact. (The specs on the pin are here: https://www.mill-max.com/products/rec/1001 I believe the one in the picture is a 10 micron gold-over-nickel contact ttype, though I also use the tin/lead ones often enough.

P.S. https://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=3028240#3028240 has a photo of the missing pin in someone else's kit.
Chrutil
wohali wrote:
HI synthcube, thanks for commenting. Hope this info helps.

I got lucky - trash day is tomorrow so the bad sockets hadn't gone out yet!

Here's a side-by-side shot of a failed socket from the kit vs. a known good Mill-Max one. I've used a close-up lens to try and get better detail. You should be able to see the difference in quality (and the obvious defect) here.



In the kit socket, you can see a seam where the insert, a rolled piece of metal, meets itself. Presumably this is press-fit into the socket, and acts as a circular spring, wedging itself against the outer shell.

In the Mill-Max socket, the contact is seamless. I'm not sure how it's manufactured, but no seam is evident. The inner diameter is very uniform in size; the kit sockets don't show this same consistency.

As mentioned, the extraction force required on these sockets is lower, and this is very noticeable with the 8-pin sockets, where I can literally turn the socket upside down and the IC falls out of it (yes, with the legs on the IC spread as wide as possible before insertion).

Not once in over 20 years of ordering these Mill-Max sockets have I ever received one missing the inner contact. (The specs on the pin are here: https://www.mill-max.com/products/rec/1001 I believe the one in the picture is a 10 micron gold-over-nickel contact ttype, though I also use the tin/lead ones often enough.

P.S. https://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=3028240#3028240 has a photo of the missing pin in someone else's kit.


Ouch, yes that socket with a missing insert is exactly what happened to me that caused the whole channel B for all voices to be glitching until I found it because there was no (or only sporadic) connection to the leg on an opamp.
I should also note that I got mine from the ebay link in the BOM and not from Synthcube.
synthcube
thanks all for the info and the pictures--- it is interesting, we've sent out literally thousands (or more) of these sockets.. this issue seems to have cropped up only recently so we are sharing the feedback with the supplier... probably a good idea for DIY'ers to do a quick visual scan of the pin sockets, as we will before kitting...
Coburn
Happily, all my sockets arrived with their inserts... inserted. Just one pin went amiss.

Big thanks to Synthcube for their quick response on the issues with my parts kit.

I can almost smell the finish line now. Must.. be... patient... still... hyper
Coburn
Welp, I did it.

I made the dumbest mistake of all and seem to have fried my ARM (the chip, not my appendage). I installed a very incorrect capacitor into C6 on the main board thinking it would be a viable replacement for the one missing from my kit. It had the correct capacitance but it was electrolytic, facing the wrong way and fed the chip very naughty voltages. As far as I can tell the proximate SMT chips are fine.

There is absolutely no way I can replace it myself, I lack both the skill and tools to do so. I've sent Black Corp an email to see what my options are.

Patience and diligence, my friends. Don't make the same mistake!

Dead Banana
captnapalm
Coburn wrote:
Welp, I did it.

I made the dumbest mistake of all and seem to have fried my ARM (the chip, not my appendage). I installed a very incorrect capacitor into C6 on the main board thinking it would be a viable replacement for the one missing from my kit. It had the correct capacitance but it was electrolytic, facing the wrong way and fed the chip very naughty voltages. As far as I can tell the proximate SMT chips are fine.

There is absolutely no way I can replace it myself, I lack both the skill and tools to do so. I've sent Black Corp an email to see what my options are.

Patience and diligence, my friends. Don't make the same mistake!

Dead Banana



You could probably find a place locally that does SMT rework, or ship it to one of us here in the states who could resolder it for you.
Coburn
Unfortunately there isn't anyone I can find to repair it locally, and the cost of repair and shipping anywhere semi-local (maybe I'm just looking in the wrong places, but the ones I found in greater Boston all had minimum bench fees of $150-$175) is way more expensive than just buying a hot air station, some practice pads and spending the time to learn how to do it myself, which i'd like to know how to do anyways.

Or am I just making a silly mistake into a problem? I mean, a new ARM is < $6, so I'll get a few. Practice pads are < $4 on eBay, a few of those too. I'm sure I can find a decent hot air station for <= $100. All that and accoutrements is less than the bench fees I found, and I'd actually learn something, which I value more than having a working product.

Unless someone here tells me I'm being stupid (please do) or can offer a better rate, lemme know!
captnapalm
Coburn wrote:
Unfortunately there isn't anyone I can find to repair it locally, and the cost of repair and shipping anywhere semi-local (maybe I'm just looking in the wrong places, but the ones I found in greater Boston all had minimum bench fees of $150-$175) is way more expensive than just buying a hot air station, some practice pads and spending the time to learn how to do it myself, which i'd like to know how to do anyways.

Or am I just making a silly mistake into a problem? I mean, a new ARM is < $6, so I'll get a few. Practice pads are < $4 on eBay, a few of those too. I'm sure I can find a decent hot air station for <= $100. All that and accoutrements is less than the bench fees I found, and I'd actually learn something, which I value more than having a working product.

Unless someone here tells me I'm being stupid (please do) or can offer a better rate, lemme know!


I wouldn't personally charge you anything to resolder one chip, but I agree that it would be best to learn it yourself. A cheap hot air station (something like this for $33) would work just fine and be sufficient for an odd job here or there. Add a syringe of liquid solder and you'll be on your way.
Chrutil
Coburn wrote:
Unfortunately there isn't anyone I can find to repair it locally, and the cost of repair and shipping anywhere semi-local (maybe I'm just looking in the wrong places, but the ones I found in greater Boston all had minimum bench fees of $150-$175) is way more expensive than just buying a hot air station, some practice pads and spending the time to learn how to do it myself, which i'd like to know how to do anyways.

Or am I just making a silly mistake into a problem? I mean, a new ARM is < $6, so I'll get a few. Practice pads are < $4 on eBay, a few of those too. I'm sure I can find a decent hot air station for <= $100. All that and accoutrements is less than the bench fees I found, and I'd actually learn something, which I value more than having a working product.

Unless someone here tells me I'm being stupid (please do) or can offer a better rate, lemme know!


Definitely no need to panic.
I just finished building 10 Mutable Instruments Plaits modules (with a similar cpu) and was sweating a little bit about the STM32 but in the end it was a breeze.
I experimented with various techniques including a soldermask and solderpaste with hot air and a 1/64” tip with 0.015” this solder, and even made a youtube video about it.
I have a $65 rework station off Amazon and it has worked great.
Since you are interested in learning it, I definitely recommend trying to learn this yourself, with a steady hand a good magnification you should be good.
wohali
Since this is a one-off, I'd skip the hot air station (since the underside of the chip isn't a pad itself) and use ChipQuik, which is safer for beginners if you have an adjustable-temp soldering iron. Here's a great video (sorry for Dave's annoying accent):

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UmD7F0--7Lc

Of course a hot-air gun works as well.

If you have a surplus shop anywhere in town, or an old bit of computer board lying around, you could try soldering/desoldering chips off of it first.
Coburn
captnapalm wrote:
I wouldn't personally charge you anything to resolder one chip, but I agree that it would be best to learn it yourself. A cheap hot air station (something like this for $33) would work just fine and be sufficient for an odd job here or there. Add a syringe of liquid solder and you'll be on your way.

That's very generous of you and I am truly greatful for your offer, however I think I'll give it a try for myself. Mistakes are the perfect opportunity to learn.

Chrutil wrote:
Definitely no need to panic.
I just finished building 10 Mutable Instruments Plaits modules (with a similar cpu) and was sweating a little bit about the STM32 but in the end it was a breeze.
I experimented with various techniques including a soldermask and solderpaste with hot air and a 1/64” tip with 0.015” this solder, and even made a youtube video about it.
I have a $65 rework station off Amazon and it has worked great.

Ah you must be Tchimmy Tchonga. Coincidentally I was watching this exact video last night and it soothed me out of a state of panic. I even looked at your hot air station on Amazon. Thank you!

Wohali wrote:
Since this is a one-off, I'd skip the hot air station (since the underside of the chip isn't a pad itself) and use ChipQuik, which is safer for beginners if you have an adjustable-temp soldering iron. Here's a great video (sorry for Dave's annoying accent):

That stuff is pure magic! I think I'll give it a try, thanks! Dave sounds like the warewolf from What We Do In The Shadows.

Thank you all, you guys are fantastic.
Chrutil
Coburn wrote:

Chrutil wrote:
Definitely no need to panic.
I just finished building 10 Mutable Instruments Plaits modules (with a similar cpu) and was sweating a little bit about the STM32 but in the end it was a breeze.
I experimented with various techniques including a soldermask and solderpaste with hot air and a 1/64” tip with 0.015” this solder, and even made a youtube video about it.
I have a $65 rework station off Amazon and it has worked great.

Ah you must be Tchimmy Tchonga. Coincidentally I was watching this exact video last night and it soothed me out of a state of panic. I even looked at your hot air station on Amazon. Thank you!


Guilty as charged Cheesy!
Happy to hear it could take some panic away!
I like my hot air station, but it has a built-in soldering iron I never use so if I were to get one again I'd probably pick an even simpler.
Regarding hot air vs chipquick:
You're already a rockstar DIY'er having built a Deckard's Dream, so I guess it comes down to whether or not you think you will continue with smaller SMDs or if it is a one off.
Either way, we're all here to help.

Cheers,
C
campacasa
Yesterday delivery service rang at my door. Surprise: It was the Expander Kit. Unlike last time with the DDRM kit, there was no notification from Black Corporation that it got sent (they just had let know that the kits would go out soon). And even better, no need to pick up the "suspicious" package at the customs office this time.

Now with the Expander BoM also available, I can go after the components, combining with a number of still missing things for DDRM. And the cases, of course.

Keep up the good work here, I hope to contribute as well.

Best regards,
Peter
LED-man
Please wait with the assembly of the expander.
It looks like we have a major bug with the powersupply circuit.
More later
campacasa
Thanks LED-man for the hint. I'm not that far yet, busy at the moment with merging (parts of) the DDRM and Expander BOMs to order components. I'll hold back with the actual order.

Hope you can soon let us know what is the matter here. But then, anyone else finished the Expander already and having issues?

Peter

P.S. Looks like our avatars kind of fit together. thumbs up
wohali
LED-man wrote:
Please wait with the assembly of the expander.
It looks like we have a major bug with the powersupply circuit.
More later


Thanks buddy, good thing I had other priorities this weekend.
LED-man
Deckardsdream Expander project notes with BOM and schematics:
https://www.dsl-man.de/display/DDRM/DDRM+Expander
Pando
LED-man wrote:
Please wait with the assembly of the expander.
It looks like we have a major bug with the powersupply circuit.
More later


Please do tell. What bug?
Pando
Coburn wrote:
Unfortunately there isn't anyone I can find to repair it locally, and the cost of repair and shipping anywhere semi-local (maybe I'm just looking in the wrong places, but the ones I found in greater Boston all had minimum bench fees of $150-$175) is way more expensive than just buying a hot air station, some practice pads and spending the time to learn how to do it myself, which i'd like to know how to do anyways.

Or am I just making a silly mistake into a problem? I mean, a new ARM is < $6, so I'll get a few. Practice pads are < $4 on eBay, a few of those too. I'm sure I can find a decent hot air station for <= $100. All that and accoutrements is less than the bench fees I found, and I'd actually learn something, which I value more than having a working product.

Unless someone here tells me I'm being stupid (please do) or can offer a better rate, lemme know!


If you do end up doing it yourself, please practice first. It's way too easy to lift the traces and ruin the whole board.

Try to get a hold of Steve @needspeed who can replace it for you.
LED-man
Ok power fixed by me.
One defect Diode stopped the 5v/12v/-12v rails.
I waited on an other builder to have a false/positive check etc.
It’s always better to wait on 1-2 users to confirm the functionality,
Example: the TTSH rev.1 was built from me as first user and I found a major bug - the rails was swapped (fixed by cross the ferrite)
I try to make tomorrow the first audio tests.


The build needs 10hours plus calibration and test.
Total costs with case and all everything is ~1.100€

wohali
LED-man wrote:
Ok power fixed by me.
One defect Diode stopped the 5v/12v/-12v rails.


So, not a bug and just a bad part? OK, I'll get going on my build. Thanks.
EOTS
Oh man. I should really start this build.
Too many other projects.

Is the v2.1 BOM to be considered "stable" yet?
Pando
LED-man wrote:
Ok power fixed by me.
One defect Diode stopped the 5v/12v/-12v rails.
I waited on an other builder to have a false/positive check etc.
It’s always better to wait on 1-2 users to confirm the functionality,
Example: the TTSH rev.1 was built from me as first user and I found a major bug - the rails was swapped (fixed by cross the ferrite)
I try to make tomorrow the first audio tests.


The build needs 10hours plus calibration and test.
Total costs with case and all everything is ~1.100€



Nice build!
Coburn
Pando wrote:
Coburn wrote:
Unfortunately there isn't anyone I can find to repair it locally, and the cost of repair and shipping anywhere semi-local (maybe I'm just looking in the wrong places, but the ones I found in greater Boston all had minimum bench fees of $150-$175) is way more expensive than just buying a hot air station, some practice pads and spending the time to learn how to do it myself, which i'd like to know how to do anyways.

Or am I just making a silly mistake into a problem? I mean, a new ARM is < $6, so I'll get a few. Practice pads are < $4 on eBay, a few of those too. I'm sure I can find a decent hot air station for <= $100. All that and accoutrements is less than the bench fees I found, and I'd actually learn something, which I value more than having a working product.

Unless someone here tells me I'm being stupid (please do) or can offer a better rate, lemme know!


If you do end up doing it yourself, please practice first. It's way too easy to lift the traces and ruin the whole board.

Try to get a hold of Steve @needspeed who can replace it for you.


Definitely not going to try this as my first, I've got some practice pads and have been rifling through some boards I've got kicking about to practice on. At the first sign of trouble I plan to submit and send it off. Maybe it'll be too late at that point. Build is on hold for now either way.
campacasa
Would anything speak against replacing the TL071/TL072/TL074 used for the Expander by TL061/TL062/TL064? I think this also was a change made for DDRM. I happen to see that the (basic) TL072 currently is not available at Mouser.

Then, would I need to be specific with the exact type (CN/CP/IN/...)?

Thanks,
Peter
Pando
campacasa wrote:
Would anything speak against replacing the TL071/TL072/TL074 used for the Expander by TL061/TL062/TL064? I think this also was a change made for DDRM. I happen to see that the (basic) TL072 currently is not available at Mouser.

Then, would I need to be specific with the exact type (CN/CP/IN/...)?

Thanks,
Peter


Should be fine, I don't see anything there that would specifically require the 07x. Use whatever type has the best price (CN, CP, etc.)
sixbyseven
Just realized many people don't do the Facebook thing. I have put together a build FAQ and Issues list from building my expander. Please note: Some of the material is my own opinion and has NOT been verified by Roman or Black Corporation. If you feel it is in error, post here for discussion.

The doc is here: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1lhSPvdH8zW1SvmVRNOo1WZjnTtcx3yO_7X PWvHTuFnk/edit?usp=sharing



I also posted a ton of sound samples on Facebook, so if you have not heard some of the sounds, here is Factory patches 1-30 (not in order) using the ring modulator and some delay and Sustain I & II.

https://soundcloud.com/todd-murray-501092243/ddrm-factory-patches-1-30 -using-the-expander


The DD is a totally different beast with the expander. The two compliment each other nicely.
sixbyseven
combined the two messages into one. Can't delete this.
Brinsow
sixbyseven wrote:
Just realized many people don't do the Facebook thing. I have put together a build FAQ and Issues list from building my expander. Please note: Some of the material is my own opinion and has NOT been verified by Roman or Black Corporation. If you feel it is in error, post here for discussion.

The doc is here: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1lhSPvdH8zW1SvmVRNOo1WZjnTtcx3yO_7X PWvHTuFnk/edit?usp=sharing
....
.

Thanks for this. Glad things are still available outside the Facebook realm. Do my utter best to avoid ever registering there. Have to start my expander built.

On that last matter, does anyone knows about the status of the Synthcube's 'DDRM expander V1, full parts kit'.
Currently it's listed as out of stock. Am I just late, or do they even have to start with it?
campacasa
Many thanks, sixbyseven!

That document definitively seems to be of good help. Yes, no Facebook for me. I actually would expect Black Corporation to post similar information on their website and not through FB.

Somehow your SoundCloud link ends up as "this track is not found" for me.

Regards,
Peter
oolfur


120 notes per second on the DD! Dead Banana
sixbyseven
Try this link if the one above does not work. It mainly focuses on demonstrating the ring modulator with the sounds of the Factory patches 1-30 (not in any order)


Expander sounds from Factory Patch 1-30
fitzcarraldo
Just to say thanks to everyone who replied with suggestions for the amp/mixer issue I had (a few pages back).

I managed to find the bug, it was the trace between a resistor and a capacitor near IC57. Superficially, I couldn’t see any damage to the trace. I ended up connecting them with a wire. Problem solved.

I still have to debug one of my voice cards (just plays super resonant sounds), but happy to use the Deckard with 7 voices for now. I think I’m done de-bugging for a while...
spacecadet
Hi all - first post so go easy on me.

I just jumped in and ordered everything to build both a 2.1 DDRM and the expander. Looking forward to it immensely and appreciate all the good contributors to this thread.

I'm a pretty experienced solderer but even so I'm finding the prospect of this a little daunting. I'm up for the challenge though.

I'm a bit reluctant to join the FB group. Assuming I don't have any particular issues, is there any compelling reason to do so?

Thanks in advance
Chrutil
spacecadet wrote:

I'm a pretty experienced solderer but even so I'm finding the prospect of this a little daunting. I'm up for the challenge though.


Hi and welcome!
you'll find that the difficulty in building this is indeed not in the complexity of any particular section, but in the large amount of things you have to do.
Taking it all nice and slow will ensure success, the longer you sit the more likely it is that you place the wrong component, or heaven orbit, an IC in the wrong direction and blow up the MCU.

spacecadet wrote:

I'm a bit reluctant to join the FB group. Assuming I don't have any particular issues, is there any compelling reason to do so?

Yes I definitely think so, there is a mass of information and tips there, and where I to build this now I would read through the full set before I get started.
There are also lots of useful files that makes building easier, like component placement charts in the files section.
If you are reluctant to join Facebook for this, I totally understand, but you don't have to go all out giving up your privacy, you can join using a compartmentalized identity and not do any activity outside of synth building which makes this rather benign as far as privacy goes.

Good luck building, it'll be a blast and you will get one of the nicest synths out there.
and if you decide not to join FB, then we'll be here helping out too.
spacecadet
Thanks for the advice. I will go and join the group

One question - is the "saw tooth glitch mod" now integral to the rev2.1 pcbs and BOM?
spacecadet
spacecadet wrote:
Thanks for the advice. I will go and join the group

One question - is the "saw tooth glitch mod" now integral to the rev2.1 pcbs and BOM?


To answer my own question - YES, rev 2.1 includes the sawtooth mod.
ndf
Hi, I just finshed a DDRM 1.0 from a Synthcube kit of parts and it's all working great - but I noticed some strange dots that appear on the screen when it is powered on. They appear at the bottom of the screen for about a second, just before the firmware verison is displayed. I'm using the v3 bootloader and 1.3 firmware, everything else seems fine. Is this normal?

Pando
ndf wrote:
Hi, I just finshed a DDRM 1.0 from a Synthcube kit of parts and it's all working great - but I noticed some strange dots that appear on the screen when it is powered on. They appear at the bottom of the screen for about a second, just before the firmware verison is displayed. I'm using the v3 bootloader and 1.3 firmware, everything else seems fine. Is this normal?


It's normal, mine does the same thing. This is due to a delay code that was added to fix some display initialization issues in earlier firmware.
ndf
Thanks!
campacasa
Wanted to report back on my DDRM and Expander. This is going to take a little longer, I just can't spend that much time at once, having my regular job and other things that keep me busy. Vacation is also coming up. Like I did for my TTSH, I also want to document the DDRM and Expander work at my website. Currently I only have uploaded a number of pictures, text will be added later. Anyone interested can check the related "photo albums" at https://synth.campacasa.eu/albums/. My thanks, of course, to all the contributors here with the many valuable tips and tricks.

There's one thing I would like to mention here: To solder the various SMD components (especially the many capacitors) I have this very thin soldering tip. It can be seen in following image: https://synth.campacasa.eu/content/soldering-tools-for-the-smd-capacit ors/. Although in most cases this works fine, I've noticed that every now and then it doesn't work well. Then it feels like the solder becomes very sticky or just doesn't want to melt. The soldering station that I have isn't really a bad one. Nevertheless it seems that the thin tip doesn't manage to always keep the right temperature. I've now noticed that when using the regular, thicker tip all works very well. It still works with the SMD component (capacitors and ICs), I just need to be a little more careful. Well, I always should. hihi

Happy synthing,
Peter
sduck
campacasa wrote:
Although in most cases this works fine, I've noticed that every now and then it doesn't work well. Then it feels like the solder becomes very sticky or just doesn't want to melt. The soldering station that I have isn't really a bad one. Nevertheless it seems that the thin tip doesn't manage to always keep the right temperature.


The places you're having this problem are most likely connections to the ground plane - these will always need more time and heat - think of the ground plane as a big heat sink. Once you learn to recognize these pads, you can plan ahead, give them a bit more preheat time before applying the solder.
campacasa
Thanks. Right, that also went through my mind. The heat "spreading out" so to say. Yes, to know in advance which pads are concerned may help. But especially for the many capacitors the larger tip seems to work fine. Maybe the easier way to go.

Peter
sduck
If you've got the time and inclination to switch tips and/or heat settings, that'll work. Me, I just look for the way the pads are, and adjust the amount of preheating time up a bit. In this pic the ground pads are in the corners, and are pretty obvious.


On the DDRM/Kijimi boards, the ground pads are a bit harder to tell, but you can if you try - the pads on the left of the each electrolytic is a ground pad (from the voice cards of the kijimi) -
SOPiiAC
I'm getting ready to start my DD Rev1 build. Finally carved out enough time. I have the Synthcube kit. Are there any recommended changes you Rev1ers would make that I should know about before I start? thx
LED-man
SOPiiAC wrote:
I'm getting ready to start my DD Rev1 build. Finally carved out enough time. I have the Synthcube kit. Are there any recommended changes you Rev1ers would make that I should know about before I start? thx


Change the Aluminium spacer to steel less version, because they bends.
Check the Display pinout (or modify it with resistor legs - 2pins)
Check the Powersupply connector 2.1mm vs 2.5mm center pin.
Feel free to use filmcaps instead of the electrolyte bipolar caps.
Change the 5Ampere fuse to a lower value.
SOPiiAC
LED-man wrote:
SOPiiAC wrote:
I'm getting ready to start my DD Rev1 build. Finally carved out enough time. I have the Synthcube kit. Are there any recommended changes you Rev1ers would make that I should know about before I start? thx


Change the Aluminium spacer to steel less version, because they bends.
Check the Display pinout (or modify it with resistor legs - 2pins)
Check the Powersupply connector 2.1mm vs 2.5mm center pin.
Feel free to use filmcaps instead of the electrolyte bipolar caps.
Change the 5Ampere fuse to a lower value.


Great! Thanks for that! It's peanut butter jelly time!
sduck
There's also a mod to the voice cards - See https://www.dsl-man.de/display/DDRM/DDRM+rev.1+guide - optional though. I didn't do it, and don't miss it.
SOPiiAC
sduck wrote:
There's also a mod to the voice cards - See https://www.dsl-man.de/display/DDRM/DDRM+rev.1+guide - optional though. I didn't do it, and don't miss it.


Many thanks! While this is such a cool project, I have to say the documentation is all over the place, haha.
SOPiiAC
sduck wrote:
There's also a mod to the voice cards - See https://www.dsl-man.de/display/DDRM/DDRM+rev.1+guide - optional though. I didn't do it, and don't miss it.


Was it the waveform glitch you were referencing?
sduck
Yes.
Pando
Duplicate, ignore please.
Pando
SOPiiAC wrote:
I'm getting ready to start my DD Rev1 build. Finally carved out enough time. I have the Synthcube kit. Are there any recommended changes you Rev1ers would make that I should know about before I start? thx


Take the main board PCB and bend off the two extra strips on the long edge of the board. Just take some pliers and start bending it, working your way from one end to the other. These strips need to be removed or it won't fit into the case, and the best time to do it is before you have components soldered on the board.

Before you power up, you should also add the two protection diodes to the back of the power supply connector on the main board. These will save your bacon if you accidentally insert a chip the wrong way to the hardware board, plus they eliminate the silent boot issue.

Good luck and take your time building it, have a solid procedure to double-check your work at every stage, and make sure all components are correct before you power up. The time you think you'll save if you do it in a hurry will bite you later when things don't work and you need to troubleshoot.
oldenjon
Anybody looking for a DIY Kit?
I have a v1 kit w/ case, 3340s, and some other parts
PM me if interested
mcbinc
I'm getting ready for a build but I don't quite like the look of the EG22xx/EG23xx slide switches in the BOM. Has anyone found alternate parts that match technical requirements (pin out, electrical function, mechanical constraints including panel slot width) but with a different aesthetic or operating feel?
ndf
Pando wrote:
Before you power up, you should also add the two protection diodes to the back of the power supply connector on the main board. These will save your bacon if you accidentally insert a chip the wrong way to the hardware board, plus they eliminate the silent boot issue.


Pando: I can't find any info on this fix anywhere online - can you provide some more detail on what sort of diodes to use and exactly where to add them, or a link to the relevant info?

Thanks :)
wohali
[quote="ndf"]
Pando wrote:
Before you power up, you should also add the
Pando: I can't find any info on this fix anywhere online - can you provide some more detail on what sort of diodes to use and exactly where to add them, or a link to the relevant info?


Here's what I was told:

"Add to back-to-back diodes to the back of the motherboard at the PSU card header pins. You can use any Schottky diode, but it's probably best to use 1N5817 to 1N5820 range.

And here is how to implement it. Simply bend the diode leads and place them as shown in this image, being careful to use the correct pins as shown (count them) or you'll short out the power supply rails. These diodes will prevent the power rale separation durin boot-up. They don't do anything else - during normal operation they are inert."

Photos here: https://imgur.com/a/cpihyGP

Hope this helps!
ndf
Ah, brilliant! Thanks again smile Seriously, this thread ought to be given it's own subdomain at black corporation...

https://allthedocsthatshouldhavebeenonourdomainbutforsomereasonneverev ermadeitonlineinanykindofpersistentway.blah.blah
damase
hi everyone,
i have 2.1 boards, close to being able to order the parts kit from synthcube but ive been trying to figure out general procedure to go about this build... please forgive my very amateur questions

as far I can tell, youre meant to look at the wonderful BOM and match up the schematic numbers to the parts, and then find it on the board and get to soldering. Right?

i do see the schematic for the motherboard but not the other boards. I dont see labeling on the SMD spots on the boards, is this because there is only the one type of smd part, so you just use these everywhere?

Any other tips on procedure welcome and appreciated smile

Also... at one point i saw someone post tips on best practices to check your work as you go, i cant seem to find that post anymore sadly so i would be very open to suggestion here as well

thank you to everyone who has contributed knowledge to this
sduck
All the smt spots are bypass caps - when you get those, in either the kit or however, just start soldering those in. Carefully. Make sure you don't miss any. That'll take a few days, check back when you're done for next steps.

For the parts on the voice cards, there's a searchable pdf available - get it. Then you can just work through the BOM using the searchable pdf.

Be aware that the voice cards are a vast inhumane beast of a project by themselves - take your time, be patient, and try not to do more than you can do correctly in one sitting.
damase
thanks very much for the clarification sduck and for the forewarning about the voice cards

planning on a lot of patience for this one
wohali
There is also a secondary PDF for the voice cards that was on dsl-man's wiki:

https://www.dsl-man.de/download/attachments/28016700/Deckard_VoiceCard _assembly_01_01_18-2.pdf?version=1&modificationDate=1517844699000&api= v2

I don't know how much it will have changed for the new rev, however.

Plus all the great tips on that page (note: that is the Rev 1 page!)

Go slow, triple check all your component values and orientations. Take frequent breaks. And invest in a magnifier of some sort. I didn't have to redo any components that I remember, but I've been building stuff since the early 1980s - and even I found it a really challenging build.

As for testing as you go: once the motherboard, jack panel and PSU are done, plug JUST the PSU and jack panel in, power it up, then check all the voltages. I'd also check the voltages on each voice card connector. Then you can power off, add a power card at a time, power on, and make sure the voltages all still look good (and you smell no "magic smoke"). If you get up to 8 boards - you're good! Don't power up a partially assembled voice card, just to be safe.
Gringo Starr
Hello everyone.

I have zero experience with DIY or anything of the sorts. I do have a friend who is willing to build this for me though. I have two questions.

I see that buying the kit for this doesn’t come with the case that you need. Or maybe I looked wrong? Is there anyone that sells everything you need to finish this in one package?

Also I’ve played on one of these before and I was let down with how the sliders felt. They felt very flimsy and weak. Is it easy to install something that would change the feel of this? Something that would make it feel much tighter and smoother?
wohali
Hey Gringo,

I hope your friend has a lot of experience - this is perhaps the most challenging (and exhausting) DIY build out there! Two words for you: be patient. The component count for this is very high and it's going to take your friend a lot of work.

The case and front panel is here: https://siddarthianinnovations.bigcartel.com/

There's no other sliders I know of that are this size that would feel any different. If you want a different feel, you're going to have to design a new (probably larger) front panel with different controls and a new PCB. This isn't impossible, but it's not a simple task.
Gringo Starr
Thanks for the information I really appreciate that.

Assuming he does know what he’s doing would you be able to estimate how many hours this will take? I only ask because he has a full-time job and a family. He’s a busy guy but he offered to do it. If it’s too much work I don’t wanna add that to his overwhelming schedule.
FrogStar
It is very likely too much work. It’s thousands of parts with zero documentation (for the v2 which is currently sold). DIY you save about $1000 off retail. It’s a big savings but not worth the time if the builder doesn’t really enjoy the process. I’m just starting mine. I had expected 40+ hours of work but this may take much more.
spacecadet
wohali wrote:
There is also a secondary PDF for the voice cards that was on dsl-man's wiki:



No good for v2 - layout is totally different - I should know, I just finished mine
FrogStar
How many hours did it take you?
spacecadet
FrogStar wrote:
It is very likely too much work. It’s thousands of parts with zero documentation (for the v2 which is currently sold). DIY you save about $1000 off retail. It’s a big savings but not worth the time if the builder doesn’t really enjoy the process. I’m just starting mine. I had expected 40+ hours of work but this may take much more.


I reckon it took me at least 70hrs. By the end I could do a voice card in about 6 hours.

In my experience, at this stage, it seems direct support from Black Corp for the DDRM appears to be non-existent. They seem to have delegated that to the community.
In typical start-up fashion they are now preoccupied elsewhere and have forgotten their primary customers - busy designing new stuff instead.

I would not recommend making the investment for a kit unless:-

a) You can read the rev 1.0 schematics and actually understand them fully - ie you probably need to have a degree in electronics.

b) You can take what little technical information there is about the rev.2, and using that with a combination of reverse engineering the board layouts, start to piece together and actually understand the differences. I have spent considerable time to understand what it is I have built. There is actually very little in the way of original design in the DDRM. The real value add was bringing it all together in a package, and - where the real I/P lies - developing the firmware.

c) Black Corp cite I/P protection as the reason for not releasing schematics. On one side I can understand this, on the other side I say bollocks to that - don't get into the kit business if you don't want to share your designs. I think the (incomplete) rev.2 MB schematic wasn't intended to be released but leaked out from a 'privileged' customer. TBH, the changes to the MB from rev.1 to rev.2 are minimal actually. The real change is in the optimization of the voice cards, for which nothing has been shared beyond the BOM. BTW there is a silk screen labeling bug in the rev2 MB which could cause you to mix up signal and ground on your audio output cable between the motherboard and the breakout board. Black Corp have probably known about this for months, but as far as I am aware have been silent. Again it falls to the community...

d) Don't bother with the expander kit - wish I hadn't wasted my money on it - a built one is cheaper, and even that is pointless now that Black Corp will release the Ring Mod stand alone - its the only good bit. The effects are all too cheesy for anyone serious about fidelity. I think they spend far too much time trying to get the original concept to work, realised they effed up and hurriedly re-engineered it.

e) Where was the promised 'detailed build guide'? Where is a professionally done user manual (there is quite a good one out there from another user)? What about proper expander calibration instructions - Again community to the rescue to figure it out by themselves the hard way. People seem to tread on eggshells and still say nice things about them on forums, but seeing as I have finished mine and got it working, and won't be buying another product from them, and still have unanswered email from them I am not going to hold back. Fair play to Black Corp for doing what they have done and probably the financial risks they have taken as a startup, but they need to up their game if they want to be successful long term and thrive.
sduck
The voice cards are killers - total time crunchers. You will go insane building them. Hell, you'll probably be insane by the time you finish the smt caps, and that's just getting started.

Most of the active support is over on the facebook deckard's dream builders group. Unfortunately. It was originally supposed to be here, but migrated over there.

I don't know about needing schematics and/or knowing advanced electronics - if you use the correct parts in the correct places, and make sure your solders are perfect, and know how to clean up your solder flux, it's just going to work. Mine did. But understand that I've been building DIY electronics stuff for decades.
FrogStar
Thank you very much.
I’m not worried if it’s just a matter of correctly stuffing boards.
Can I assume the V2 board screens to be correct?
I’ll register w/FB and get all the details, but possible board screen inaccuracy is a worry
spacecadet
sduck wrote:
The voice cards are killers - total time crunchers. You will go insane building them. Hell, you'll probably be insane by the time you finish the smt caps, and that's just getting started.

Most of the active support is over on the facebook deckard's dream builders group. Unfortunately. It was originally supposed to be here, but migrated over there.

I don't know about needing schematics and/or knowing advanced electronics - if you use the correct parts in the correct places, and make sure your solders are perfect, and know how to clean up your solder flux, it's just going to work. Mine did. But understand that I've been building DIY electronics stuff for decades.


My comments were in the context of debugging any issues that come up. The individual DPPM of the majority of the components should be extremely low. But DPPM multiplies up when combined. This many parts means a small, measurable proportion of builds will have issues due to bad components - even when assembled perfectly. Even bare PCB's don't exhibit 100% yield Then there is the question whether proper ESD precautions have been taken at all stages of the build. One guy recently had a bad MCU that would not flash. Fortunately he had the SMT skills and equipment to swap it out

Yes, if you are a good solderer and can build carefully, you have a very good chance of success. If it doesn't work, then without some knowledge of electronics and understanding the schematics, and without support from the designer, you could end up with a $3000 brick.

I'm not necessarily trying to put you off, I am just saying that this considerable investment carries some risk without any warranty. There are plenty of people who have had issues, that didn't have the knowledge to figure it out by themselves, and for whom the community were able to guide them to a resolution. This seems to be more of a challenge for rev.2 due to lack of information. So I'm saying try to weigh the risk off saving $800-$1000 verses a lot of your time and effort to build your own.
damase
wohali wrote:

Go slow, triple check all your component values and orientations. Take frequent breaks. And invest in a magnifier of some sort. I didn't have to redo any components that I remember, but I've been building stuff since the early 1980s - and even I found it a really challenging build.

As for testing as you go: once the motherboard, jack panel and PSU are done, plug JUST the PSU and jack panel in, power it up, then check all the voltages. I'd also check the voltages on each voice card connector. Then you can power off, add a power card at a time, power on, and make sure the voltages all still look good (and you smell no "magic smoke"). If you get up to 8 boards - you're good! Don't power up a partially assembled voice card, just to be safe.

thank you! and everyone else as well
fingerfarbensound
I'm interested in building one but I see the kit costs as discouraging:
$1000 PCBs
$1500 Parts kit (ok mouser chart says about half but is is really complete?)
$220 panel & case

So all in all $2720

What kind of bugs me is paying 1k for a few (admiddently large PCBs) which are probably 2 layer (ok perhaps the main one is 4 but I doubt it)

What did you guys pay for the project?
I've seen mentions of $1500 total costs... Were the pcbs cheaper when it started?
wohali
The only tip I can give on the voice boards other than being slow and meticulous is - if you are willing to invest in some assembly gear, buy a skillet or toaster oven setup for reflow and put most of the SMD caps on that way. This probably saved me tens of hours on assembly. (It would have saved me more time if it was big enough to take the motherboard.)

There's a number of sources and walk-throughs online on how to use either of these for SMT reflow...just be sure to never use that kitchen utensil for food ever again.

@fingerfarbensound: synthcube's complete parts kit is ~$1600 US, $2668 inclusive of PCBs for their remaining single v1 kit. Their v2 parts kit is slightly cheaper at $1500, to which you still need to add the PCBs, the panel/case, and an ST Link programmer ($22).

This isn't really a kit you buy to save money. It's a kit you buy if you enjoy building (and debugging) kits.
fingerfarbensound
wohali wrote:

@fingerfarbensound: synthcube's complete parts kit is ~$1600 US, $2668 inclusive of PCBs for their remaining single v1 kit. Their v2 parts kit is slightly cheaper at $1500, to which you still need to add the PCBs, the panel/case, and an ST Link programmer ($22).

This isn't really a kit you buy to save money. It's a kit you buy if you enjoy building (and debugging) kits.


I enjoy building that's why I'm asking. Eurorack bare PCBs are usually dirt cheap so I assumed this must always be true.
But I get that the designer is only compensated for his work by the sale of the PCBs.

That said I'll probably stay away for the time being.
What is kind of ironic looking at the amount of through hole components in the voice boards and the relative size of the main board I'll bet everything would fit the main if it were fully SMD. ( I just say that the pre-built version could actually be cheaper than the kit lol )

Edit: I just realized the dac chips are pre soldered on the boards which probably cost a bunch too.
spacecadet
fingerfarbensound wrote:
I'm interested in building one but I see the kit costs as discouraging:
$1000 PCBs
$1500 Parts kit (ok mouser chart says about half but is is really complete?)
$220 panel & case

So all in all $2720

What kind of bugs me is paying 1k for a few (admiddently large PCBs) which are probably 2 layer (ok perhaps the main one is 4 but I doubt it)

What did you guys pay for the project?
I've seen mentions of $1500 total costs... Were the pcbs cheaper when it started?


They are all 2 layer. They are making a HUGE margin on those boards, even accounting for the pre mounted parts.

And yes the v.2 DDRM kit is $100 cheaper than the v.1 due to lower part count - especially the PSU and the voice cards.

The mouser cart does not include any of the speciality parts.

16 CEM3040 @ $15 each and 32 V2164 @ around $4 each for example - thats another $400 right there
sduck
spacecadet wrote:

Yes, if you are a good solderer and can build carefully, you have a very good chance of success. If it doesn't work, then without some knowledge of electronics and understanding the schematics, and without support from the designer, you could end up with a $3000 brick.


See my similar warnings several times previously in this thread!
Pando
fingerfarbensound wrote:
What kind of bugs me is paying 1k for a few (admiddently large PCBs) which are probably 2 layer (ok perhaps the main one is 4 but I doubt it)


Well, the product design didn't come from aliens. It took many, many hundreds of hours and real money to design the boards, case, panel, write the firmware (which is a significant effort by itself), construct, build, and test several iterations of prototypes, and then keep the company running by paying the employees, contractors, offices, etc. In the case of DIY, when you have the opportunity to acquire all other parts separately, there is no money to be made on anything other than the PCBs.
fingerfarbensound
Pando wrote:
fingerfarbensound wrote:
What kind of bugs me is paying 1k for a few (admiddently large PCBs) which are probably 2 layer (ok perhaps the main one is 4 but I doubt it)


Well, the product design didn't come from aliens. It took many, many hundreds of hours and real money to design the boards, case, panel, write the firmware (which is a significant effort by itself), construct, build, and test several iterations of prototypes, and then keep the company running by paying the employees, contractors, offices, etc. In the case of DIY, when you have the opportunity to acquire all other parts separately, there is no money to be made on anything other than the PCBs.

See my other response above, again I realise the designer gets only compensated from a DIY kit if he marks-up the cost.

Second, again I have gotten used to PCBs being dirt cheap (both when ordering own ones and for eurorack)
I also realize that the market for polysynths is different than the one for eurorack, and all said I don't really have a real use for a monster polysynth besides replacing my virus "with something analog" which probably wouldn't do Deckards Dream justice d'oh!
LED-man
Here´s the DDRM v2 Mouser project link from me, its a 2.1.4 BOM import
https://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=15f7 0d6513
gadgadasvara
hi LED-man
do you have detail information about the resistor changes on which specific boards if i want to use alfa as3340 ics?
i’m building the rev 2.1 boards

thanks
LED-man
gadgadasvara wrote:
hi LED-man
do you have detail information about the resistor changes on which specific boards if i want to use alfa as3340 ics?
i’m building the rev 2.1 boards

thanks


In Rev.1 was some changes for AS3340 chips.
There are no infos in the FB groups about rev.2 changes.
I wait on an answer from Roman and report here.
gadgadasvara
ah okay, thank you LED-man
LED-man
There are no changes needed in DDRMv2 to use AS3340 (info from Roman.F)
gadgadasvara
oh great, thanks so much!LED-man
FrogStar
May I ask why you’d want to make this substitution?
gadgadasvara
its because of the cost. as3340 is half the price of cem3340.
LED-man
I left 16 new AS3340 for sale
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