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WIGGLING 'LITE' IN GUEST MODE

Deckards Dream General Build Thread
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Music Tech DIY Goto page Previous  1, 2, 3 ... 36, 37, 38, 39  Next [all]
Author Deckards Dream General Build Thread
spacecadet
spacecadet wrote:
Thanks for the advice. I will go and join the group

One question - is the "saw tooth glitch mod" now integral to the rev2.1 pcbs and BOM?


To answer my own question - YES, rev 2.1 includes the sawtooth mod.
ndf
Hi, I just finshed a DDRM 1.0 from a Synthcube kit of parts and it's all working great - but I noticed some strange dots that appear on the screen when it is powered on. They appear at the bottom of the screen for about a second, just before the firmware verison is displayed. I'm using the v3 bootloader and 1.3 firmware, everything else seems fine. Is this normal?

Pando
ndf wrote:
Hi, I just finshed a DDRM 1.0 from a Synthcube kit of parts and it's all working great - but I noticed some strange dots that appear on the screen when it is powered on. They appear at the bottom of the screen for about a second, just before the firmware verison is displayed. I'm using the v3 bootloader and 1.3 firmware, everything else seems fine. Is this normal?


It's normal, mine does the same thing. This is due to a delay code that was added to fix some display initialization issues in earlier firmware.
ndf
Thanks!
campacasa
Wanted to report back on my DDRM and Expander. This is going to take a little longer, I just can't spend that much time at once, having my regular job and other things that keep me busy. Vacation is also coming up. Like I did for my TTSH, I also want to document the DDRM and Expander work at my website. Currently I only have uploaded a number of pictures, text will be added later. Anyone interested can check the related "photo albums" at https://synth.campacasa.eu/albums/. My thanks, of course, to all the contributors here with the many valuable tips and tricks.

There's one thing I would like to mention here: To solder the various SMD components (especially the many capacitors) I have this very thin soldering tip. It can be seen in following image: https://synth.campacasa.eu/content/soldering-tools-for-the-smd-capacit ors/. Although in most cases this works fine, I've noticed that every now and then it doesn't work well. Then it feels like the solder becomes very sticky or just doesn't want to melt. The soldering station that I have isn't really a bad one. Nevertheless it seems that the thin tip doesn't manage to always keep the right temperature. I've now noticed that when using the regular, thicker tip all works very well. It still works with the SMD component (capacitors and ICs), I just need to be a little more careful. Well, I always should. hihi

Happy synthing,
Peter
sduck
campacasa wrote:
Although in most cases this works fine, I've noticed that every now and then it doesn't work well. Then it feels like the solder becomes very sticky or just doesn't want to melt. The soldering station that I have isn't really a bad one. Nevertheless it seems that the thin tip doesn't manage to always keep the right temperature.


The places you're having this problem are most likely connections to the ground plane - these will always need more time and heat - think of the ground plane as a big heat sink. Once you learn to recognize these pads, you can plan ahead, give them a bit more preheat time before applying the solder.
campacasa
Thanks. Right, that also went through my mind. The heat "spreading out" so to say. Yes, to know in advance which pads are concerned may help. But especially for the many capacitors the larger tip seems to work fine. Maybe the easier way to go.

Peter
sduck
If you've got the time and inclination to switch tips and/or heat settings, that'll work. Me, I just look for the way the pads are, and adjust the amount of preheating time up a bit. In this pic the ground pads are in the corners, and are pretty obvious.


On the DDRM/Kijimi boards, the ground pads are a bit harder to tell, but you can if you try - the pads on the left of the each electrolytic is a ground pad (from the voice cards of the kijimi) -
SOPiiAC
I'm getting ready to start my DD Rev1 build. Finally carved out enough time. I have the Synthcube kit. Are there any recommended changes you Rev1ers would make that I should know about before I start? thx
LED-man
SOPiiAC wrote:
I'm getting ready to start my DD Rev1 build. Finally carved out enough time. I have the Synthcube kit. Are there any recommended changes you Rev1ers would make that I should know about before I start? thx


Change the Aluminium spacer to steel less version, because they bends.
Check the Display pinout (or modify it with resistor legs - 2pins)
Check the Powersupply connector 2.1mm vs 2.5mm center pin.
Feel free to use filmcaps instead of the electrolyte bipolar caps.
Change the 5Ampere fuse to a lower value.
SOPiiAC
LED-man wrote:
SOPiiAC wrote:
I'm getting ready to start my DD Rev1 build. Finally carved out enough time. I have the Synthcube kit. Are there any recommended changes you Rev1ers would make that I should know about before I start? thx


Change the Aluminium spacer to steel less version, because they bends.
Check the Display pinout (or modify it with resistor legs - 2pins)
Check the Powersupply connector 2.1mm vs 2.5mm center pin.
Feel free to use filmcaps instead of the electrolyte bipolar caps.
Change the 5Ampere fuse to a lower value.


Great! Thanks for that! It's peanut butter jelly time!
sduck
There's also a mod to the voice cards - See https://www.dsl-man.de/display/DDRM/DDRM+rev.1+guide - optional though. I didn't do it, and don't miss it.
SOPiiAC
sduck wrote:
There's also a mod to the voice cards - See https://www.dsl-man.de/display/DDRM/DDRM+rev.1+guide - optional though. I didn't do it, and don't miss it.


Many thanks! While this is such a cool project, I have to say the documentation is all over the place, haha.
SOPiiAC
sduck wrote:
There's also a mod to the voice cards - See https://www.dsl-man.de/display/DDRM/DDRM+rev.1+guide - optional though. I didn't do it, and don't miss it.


Was it the waveform glitch you were referencing?
sduck
Yes.
Pando
Duplicate, ignore please.
Pando
SOPiiAC wrote:
I'm getting ready to start my DD Rev1 build. Finally carved out enough time. I have the Synthcube kit. Are there any recommended changes you Rev1ers would make that I should know about before I start? thx


Take the main board PCB and bend off the two extra strips on the long edge of the board. Just take some pliers and start bending it, working your way from one end to the other. These strips need to be removed or it won't fit into the case, and the best time to do it is before you have components soldered on the board.

Before you power up, you should also add the two protection diodes to the back of the power supply connector on the main board. These will save your bacon if you accidentally insert a chip the wrong way to the hardware board, plus they eliminate the silent boot issue.

Good luck and take your time building it, have a solid procedure to double-check your work at every stage, and make sure all components are correct before you power up. The time you think you'll save if you do it in a hurry will bite you later when things don't work and you need to troubleshoot.
oldenjon
Anybody looking for a DIY Kit?
I have a v1 kit w/ case, 3340s, and some other parts
PM me if interested
mcbinc
I'm getting ready for a build but I don't quite like the look of the EG22xx/EG23xx slide switches in the BOM. Has anyone found alternate parts that match technical requirements (pin out, electrical function, mechanical constraints including panel slot width) but with a different aesthetic or operating feel?
ndf
Pando wrote:
Before you power up, you should also add the two protection diodes to the back of the power supply connector on the main board. These will save your bacon if you accidentally insert a chip the wrong way to the hardware board, plus they eliminate the silent boot issue.


Pando: I can't find any info on this fix anywhere online - can you provide some more detail on what sort of diodes to use and exactly where to add them, or a link to the relevant info?

Thanks :)
wohali
[quote="ndf"]
Pando wrote:
Before you power up, you should also add the
Pando: I can't find any info on this fix anywhere online - can you provide some more detail on what sort of diodes to use and exactly where to add them, or a link to the relevant info?


Here's what I was told:

"Add to back-to-back diodes to the back of the motherboard at the PSU card header pins. You can use any Schottky diode, but it's probably best to use 1N5817 to 1N5820 range.

And here is how to implement it. Simply bend the diode leads and place them as shown in this image, being careful to use the correct pins as shown (count them) or you'll short out the power supply rails. These diodes will prevent the power rale separation durin boot-up. They don't do anything else - during normal operation they are inert."

Photos here: https://imgur.com/a/cpihyGP

Hope this helps!
ndf
Ah, brilliant! Thanks again smile Seriously, this thread ought to be given it's own subdomain at black corporation...

https://allthedocsthatshouldhavebeenonourdomainbutforsomereasonneverev ermadeitonlineinanykindofpersistentway.blah.blah
damase
hi everyone,
i have 2.1 boards, close to being able to order the parts kit from synthcube but ive been trying to figure out general procedure to go about this build... please forgive my very amateur questions

as far I can tell, youre meant to look at the wonderful BOM and match up the schematic numbers to the parts, and then find it on the board and get to soldering. Right?

i do see the schematic for the motherboard but not the other boards. I dont see labeling on the SMD spots on the boards, is this because there is only the one type of smd part, so you just use these everywhere?

Any other tips on procedure welcome and appreciated smile

Also... at one point i saw someone post tips on best practices to check your work as you go, i cant seem to find that post anymore sadly so i would be very open to suggestion here as well

thank you to everyone who has contributed knowledge to this
sduck
All the smt spots are bypass caps - when you get those, in either the kit or however, just start soldering those in. Carefully. Make sure you don't miss any. That'll take a few days, check back when you're done for next steps.

For the parts on the voice cards, there's a searchable pdf available - get it. Then you can just work through the BOM using the searchable pdf.

Be aware that the voice cards are a vast inhumane beast of a project by themselves - take your time, be patient, and try not to do more than you can do correctly in one sitting.
damase
thanks very much for the clarification sduck and for the forewarning about the voice cards

planning on a lot of patience for this one
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