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WIGGLING 'LITE' IN GUEST MODE

Deckards Dream General Build Thread
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Music Tech DIY Goto page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4, 5 ... 37, 38, 39  Next [all]
Author Deckards Dream General Build Thread
KlangGenerator
Just got a message that my kit has been shipped! SlayerBadger!
ultravox
KlangGenerator wrote:
Just got a message that my kit has been shipped! SlayerBadger!


Mine too! applause

Any word on shipping of the front panel and rack case from DIY Hub?
needspeed
ultravox wrote:
KlangGenerator wrote:
Just got a message that my kit has been shipped! SlayerBadger!


Mine too! applause

Any word on shipping of the front panel and rack case from DIY Hub?


Excellent question I will see what I can find out from DIY HUB......Steve
secrethero303
I just got my shipping notice this morning too! Mr. Green
Now I just need the case to be sent and I'm all set.
cupwise
oldcrow wrote:
The essential item for any SMT soldering is a flux pen. It is ten times easier soldering using one vs. without one. I use the water soluable flux pen model, Kester 2331-ZX such as http://www.techni-tool.com/488CH450


Crow
/**/



Thanks for the tip, but what kind of technique do you use? Do you dab the pads with flux then put a little solder on them, then place the part and melt the solder? or place the part first then somehow solder it. i've only tried SMT a few times and it didn't go perfectly. to me it seems like it'd be no big deal if i had 3 hands. or just some way of holding the part down while i solder it.

i've looked for videos on youtube but it seems kind of a crapshoot to find one i can trust..
needspeed
cupwise wrote:
oldcrow wrote:
The essential item for any SMT soldering is a flux pen. It is ten times easier soldering using one vs. without one. I use the water soluable flux pen model, Kester 2331-ZX such as http://www.techni-tool.com/488CH450


Crow
/**/



Thanks for the tip, but what kind of technique do you use? Do you dab the pads with flux then put a little solder on them, then place the part and melt the solder? or place the part first then somehow solder it. i've only tried SMT a few times and it didn't go perfectly. to me it seems like it'd be no big deal if i had 3 hands. or just some way of holding the part down while i solder it.

i've looked for videos on youtube but it seems kind of a crapshoot to find one i can trust..


I use flux pen on pads first. Then get a small bit of solder on the iron tip and then apply a little pit on each pad. Too much solder leaves a small mountain that the SMD will not sit on.

Place the SMD and heat the pad close to the SMD while pressing down with tweezers. Again too much solder and you could create a bridge underneath the SMD as the solder gets smoshed......Steve
cupwise
ok. and then you probably have to go back over them to apply a little more solder on both sides?

also i'm guessing so as not to get too much on the pads, the finer the solder, the better? i have a roll of .8mm, is that probably adequate?
needspeed
cupwise wrote:
ok. and then you probably have to go back over them to apply a little more solder on both sides?

also i'm guessing so as not to get too much on the pads, the finer the solder, the better? i have a roll of .8mm, is that probably adequate?


I use .635 as less is more. I rarely need to apply additional solder as the contact of the SMD and pad is small they will fuse together. I also test with my meter each joint by touching the top of the SMD case to the outer edge of the pad for continuity. As well as for shorts between the both sides of the SMD.....Steve
needspeed
needspeed wrote:
ultravox wrote:
KlangGenerator wrote:
Just got a message that my kit has been shipped! SlayerBadger!


Mine too! applause

Any word on shipping of the front panel and rack case from DIY Hub?


Excellent question I will see what I can find out from DIY HUB......Steve


From Andrew:
It looking like nov, trying to finalize the metal work right now.

-Andrew
ultravox
needspeed wrote:

From Andrew:
It looking like nov, trying to finalize the metal work right now.

-Andrew


Thanks for checking. At the very least we can get everything put together and tested before the coverings arrive.
Chrutil
Got my shipping notification today, which is very exciting!
But other than exciting, it is also a bit scary - there are so many surface mount caps that we weren't really expecting when we ordered this thing.
At the end of this journey we'll all be experts, but right now many of us aren't. Since I have done some surface mount before I thought I'd make a little video document on how I do it.

Soldering 0805 Caps for Deckard's Dream

Here's to a successful project!
C
keninverse
I use tacky flux through a fine tip with this kind of work if I'm hand soldering but no way I'm hand soldering 650 0805 ceramics. Some advice...pick up a relatively cheap hot air station for $50USD and some solder paste for $10. Then it's just a matter of squirting a little paste on the pads, placing parts then blowing air on it. Simple, quick and very easy.
Synesthesia
I would go solder past and hot air as well. you'll do that in no time.
Tristos
Per ultravox - REV1.0.6 CHANGED 1N5817 TO BAT85S ON THE MOTHERBOARD

Re this change, is it due to out of stock parts or should it be BAT85S now with mistake made earlier?
ultravox
Tristos wrote:
Per ultravox - REV1.0.6 CHANGED 1N5817 TO BAT85S ON THE MOTHERBOARD

Re this change, is it due to out of stock parts or should it be BAT85S now with mistake made earlier?


The reason for change wasn't listed but it might be related to circuit performance. Since there are no trimmers for calibration each component has to perform in perfect balance with the others. I quickly looked at the specs for the BAT85S and it's a little different than the 1N5817.

This was my guess...but I could be wrong about the change.
needspeed
ultravox wrote:
Tristos wrote:
Per ultravox - REV1.0.6 CHANGED 1N5817 TO BAT85S ON THE MOTHERBOARD

Re this change, is it due to out of stock parts or should it be BAT85S now with mistake made earlier?


The reason for change wasn't listed but it might be related to circuit performance. Since there are no trimmers for calibration each component has to perform in perfect balance with the others. I quickly looked at the specs for the BAT85S and it's a little different than the 1N5817.

This was my guess...but I could be wrong about the change.


Per Roman:
Pcb footprint too small, I forgot to change, new part easier to install
They work same
ultravox
needspeed wrote:
ultravox wrote:
Tristos wrote:
Per ultravox - REV1.0.6 CHANGED 1N5817 TO BAT85S ON THE MOTHERBOARD

Re this change, is it due to out of stock parts or should it be BAT85S now with mistake made earlier?


The reason for change wasn't listed but it might be related to circuit performance. Since there are no trimmers for calibration each component has to perform in perfect balance with the others. I quickly looked at the specs for the BAT85S and it's a little different than the 1N5817.

This was my guess...but I could be wrong about the change.


Per Roman:
Pcb footprint too small, I forgot to change, new part easier to install
They work same


Good deal!
fuzzbass
There is an issue with my mail notifications but Roman says my order shipped two days ago It's peanut butter jelly time!
satindas
ultravox wrote:
I quickly looked at the specs for the BAT85S and it's a little different than the 1N5817.


Including the footprint ... BAT85 = DO35
1N5817 = DO41
needspeed
fuzzbass wrote:
There is an issue with my mail notifications but Roman says my order shipped two days ago It's peanut butter jelly time!


Outstanding as we all need you to build yours first and quickly to ensure all the bugs are worked out screaming goo yo screaming goo yo screaming goo yo screaming goo yo
Jruss993
keninverse wrote:
I use tacky flux through a fine tip with this kind of work if I'm hand soldering but no way I'm hand soldering 650 0805 ceramics. Some advice...pick up a relatively cheap hot air station for $50USD and some solder paste for $10. Then it's just a matter of squirting a little paste on the pads, placing parts then blowing air on it. Simple, quick and very easy.


Are there any downsides to solder paste and hot air? It just seems like a no-brainer for a project this size, but I haven't heard it mentioned that often. It definitely seems like it could be messy if not done properly.
sduck
Just make sure you have a few extra caps handy as you're likely to blow away at least a few. At least I've heard that can happen - of course it never happens to me. Nope.
needspeed
sduck wrote:
Just make sure you have a few extra caps handy as you're likely to blow away at least a few. At least I've heard that can happen - of course it never happens to me. Nope.


As in blow them across the room???????
synthcube
sduck wrote:
Just make sure you have a few extra caps handy as you're likely to blow away at least a few. At least I've heard that can happen - of course it never happens to me. Nope.


FWIW our kits include extra SMT caps for exactly that reason, or the inevitable sneeze, or the tweezer slip, or the cat jumping on the bench and scattering them etc etc... imagine getting 688 SMT caps soldered and then realizing you're one short.. grrrrr...
needspeed
synthcube wrote:
sduck wrote:
Just make sure you have a few extra caps handy as you're likely to blow away at least a few. At least I've heard that can happen - of course it never happens to me. Nope.


FWIW our kits include extra SMT caps for exactly that reason, or the inevitable sneeze, or the tweezer slip, or the cat jumping on the bench and scattering them etc etc... imagine getting 688 SMT caps soldered and then realizing you're one short.. grrrrr...


Did you guys catch this change???

Per ultravox - REV1.0.6 CHANGED 1N5817 TO BAT85S ON THE MOTHERBOARD
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