BUILD THREAD: 266-style PCBs

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nickster
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Post by nickster » Sun Aug 26, 2012 7:49 am

Roman

On your BOM you call for Minijacks from Erthenvar Image

Can we use Kobiconn jacks or are the ground lugs on the PJ-301B jacks essential for this build?

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L-1
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Post by L-1 » Sun Aug 26, 2012 9:13 am

If you use alu panel, you can use Kobiconn jacks and connect panel to board ground somewhere once.

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nickster
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Post by nickster » Sun Aug 26, 2012 2:18 pm

L-1 wrote:If you use alu panel, you can use Kobiconn jacks and connect panel to board ground somewhere once.
Thanks, any good idea where I should take a ground link from? Or should I just take a wire from one jack ground slot and run this to a jack head which touches the faceplate.
Thanks in advance

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L-1
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Post by L-1 » Sun Aug 26, 2012 5:37 pm

Really better if two groundplanes are connected in one location. For example, Oakley connected their panels ground direct near power source, not even to board. But majority ignore it. It's question how many hi-end you want.
Just connect ground leg of one jack with wire to board ground. Other jacks grounds will be connected between via panel .

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Juxwl
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Post by Juxwl » Sat Sep 01, 2012 10:54 am

nickster wrote:So for correct 12v Eurorack to function we actually need to follow the 15 v (eurorack) installation instructions omitting D12, D13, IC15, IC14, L4, L3, R44, C14, C41, C40

And changing R46 to a 46.4k resistor on Board 2,
also changing R59 to a 75K Resistor again on Board 2.

No traces need to be cut.

Can somebody confirm this for me and Roman if possible can you update the build documents.

Thanks very much in advance.
8_)
Has anyone verified that these changes work?

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numbertalk
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Post by numbertalk » Sat Sep 01, 2012 1:11 pm

Should we find it at all disconcerting Roman isn't replying here to answer questions in a while?

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spotta
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Post by spotta » Sun Sep 02, 2012 9:43 am

numbertalk wrote:Should we find it at all disconcerting Roman isn't replying here to answer questions in a while?
He's been on the missing list before for a week or two and and always returned.
I wouldnt get too worried yet.

Although I really want to get mine built as well!
Spotta
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nickster
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Post by nickster » Tue Sep 04, 2012 6:19 pm

Roman was robbed of his laptop just recently so I imagine it will take a while longer before he can get round to answering these questions. Pretty tough luck for him as most of his stuff was on the hard drive.

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janvanvolt
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Post by janvanvolt » Thu Sep 06, 2012 7:18 pm

As i got asked, here are the summarized items i did to get the 266c (eurorack) running:

- omit D12, D13, IC15, IC14, L4, L3, R44, C14, C41, C40
- do NOT cut any traces
- for R46 use a 46.4k resistor on Board 2,
- for R59 use a 75K Resistor again on Board 2.
- do NOT follow instructions from page 1 on 266c-eurorack-1-schematics-v1.1
- check and apply the fix according to 266c-eurorack-3-schematics-v1.1

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Post by nickster » Fri Sep 07, 2012 4:21 am

janvanvolt wrote:As i got asked, here are the summarized items i did to get the 266c (eurorack) running:

- omit D12, D13, IC15, IC14, L4, L3, R44, C14, C41, C40
- do NOT cut any traces
- for R46 use a 46.4k resistor on Board 2,
- for R59 use a 75K Resistor again on Board 2.
- do NOT follow instructions from page 1 on 266c-eurorack-1-schematics-v1.1
- check and apply the fix according to 266c-eurorack-3-schematics-v1.1
Wicked! Eurorack build starts today, finally. Thanks for confirming this.
Jan, you are the man.
:nana: :nana: :bacon:

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Post by Juxwl » Sat Sep 08, 2012 2:40 am

janvanvolt wrote:As i got asked, here are the summarized items i did to get the 266c (eurorack) running:

- omit D12, D13, IC15, IC14, L4, L3, R44, C14, C41, C40
- do NOT cut any traces
- for R46 use a 46.4k resistor on Board 2,
- for R59 use a 75K Resistor again on Board 2.
- do NOT follow instructions from page 1 on 266c-eurorack-1-schematics-v1.1
- check and apply the fix according to 266c-eurorack-3-schematics-v1.1

Did you install jumpers for any or all of the omitted components?

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Post by L-1 » Tue Sep 11, 2012 9:46 am

Roman, what values are R16 and R35 on 1st board Euro. ?

I can't find them on the schematic and in BOM but they are on the board.

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Post by L-1 » Tue Sep 11, 2012 12:45 pm

I've assembled the module but it doesn't work. Euro but 15V version.
+11V instead of -15 on 2nd and 3rd boards. And I don't see any V- out from 1st board connector at all. please advise.

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Post by raisinbag » Tue Sep 11, 2012 1:10 pm

It sounds like jananvolt has it working, maybe send him a PM and find out all the details? It sounds like Roman is quite messed up with robbery and all. I haven't built mine yet as I have been waiting for an official build confirm before I do mine. I don't have enough experience to trouble shoot something so big. I'm like a DIY vulture.

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L-1
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Post by L-1 » Tue Sep 11, 2012 1:13 pm

I've checked with tester - any V- out from 1st board.

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raisinbag
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Post by raisinbag » Tue Sep 11, 2012 1:23 pm

Oh sorry you are doing it at 15v. That was my plan, but not sure what I want to do. Seems there is trouble with the builds so I will wait till after I build the tube vca and vocorder and do 266 after. :razz:

I hope you can figure this one out. What directions did you follow? Seems there are some different versions and it is getting confusing. I'm sure Roman will check in again soon and sort us out.

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L-1
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Post by L-1 » Tue Sep 11, 2012 1:31 pm

Yes, I've placed a wire between V- of boards 1 and 3, and the device started to work. Will check all the functions later but at least LEDs started to blink.

In other words I got V- to board 3.

Tomorrow will make a photo. Very nice module.

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ringstone
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Post by ringstone » Tue Sep 11, 2012 6:41 pm

I think Roman mentioned there might have been an issue with some of the ribbon cables - might be worth checking.

Cheers
Blair

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Post by raisinbag » Tue Sep 11, 2012 6:49 pm

Good call. I hope that it what L1's prob is. Kinda like that broken guitar amp I bought cheap becasue it didnt work and it just had a blown fuse. :yay:

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Post by L-1 » Wed Sep 12, 2012 7:33 am

These are a photos of my 266. Thanks to Roman for the great project!

10R (bead) resistor at V+ is pretty hot. Will replace this to 0.5W

Smaller knob is needed for integrators pot, too close to jack.

Intergator's pot adjusts amplitude. It is normal?

Other functions work correct.

The V- wire from 1 to 3 board is visible on the fourth photo. I think it is possible to connect V- of 1 and 2 boards with shorter wire, but I made V- IN near bypass caps, as it must be.

Image


Image


Image

Image

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raisinbag
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Post by raisinbag » Wed Sep 12, 2012 8:00 am

What was wrong with your board yesterday, how did you get it to work? Oh also, you are powering it with 15v right, so what do you do in this case to connect a 15v supply to a euro 10 pin header?

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Post by L-1 » Wed Sep 12, 2012 8:20 am

I've connected V- thru pin on 1 board and V- via hole near bypass electrolyth on board 3.

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Post by pre55ure » Thu Sep 13, 2012 3:08 pm

Edited to say "nevermind"

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Post by synaptech » Sat Sep 15, 2012 7:18 pm

Hmm can anyone clarify why R53 (150k) on 266c-EURO-2 v1.1 is in red? Was this an addition from v1.0? I'm assuming I should install it but just wanted to clarify. :tu:

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Post by jbaken » Mon Sep 17, 2012 11:59 pm

just finished building the euro version. everything seems to be working except the sample and hold. cant seem to get any output from it.. seems like its not responding to my clock input. ive tried running it without R16 and R35 and with 47ks in both spots (based on the buchla schematic). not sure what to try now. thoughts?

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