i've out the city, but i ask my friend to check the pcbs and report shortly. i've done 5 of them working correctly this way, let me double check. sorry for that powering issue.janvanvolt wrote:Roman,
i tried to build it as you proposed, but i am getting a short between the - and the GND rail.
thoughts ?
Also i noticed:
- L3 and L4 have different uH values in the schematics
- C41 is 470uf vs. 100uf as in the different BOM Versions
BUILD THREAD: 266-style PCBs
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- roman_f
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- roman_f
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1) leds are not swappedthebot wrote:Roman,
I know the panel is designed to look like the original unit but would an easier option not be to just change the panel so the outputs are swapped on the panel rather than any adjustment on wiring? Or are the LEDs the right way round?
Edit: I'm talking about the 5U version here by the way.
2) cutting 2 traces / wiring other 2 is super easy, this mod is done in 2 minutes
- decaying.sine
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You can merge carts. I have done this and it has worked for me. BTW, I'll PM you tonight raisinsraisinbag wrote:HEY THANKS Radiokoalal! Is there a way to MERGE the carts together? I looked around but it isn't obvious. Thanks so much. I have many of the parts, but need a bunch of funky ones from each BOM.
Also if anyone is building with a Bleeps Euro panel, will the Davies 1900h knobs work?

From Mouser...
Combining Multiple Projects
Log in. Select the "View basket tab to ensure you do not have parts in your shopping basket that you do not wish to be added to this order. (Clear your shopping basket, if necessary.) Click on the "Project Manager" link.
Click on the "Edit" link next to one of the projects that you wish to combine. In the bottom right hand corner under the merchandise total, click on the "Order Project" button. This will add the parts to your basket.
Then go into the next project and follow the same steps, which will add each project to your basket and add together any quantities for any duplicate products.
Once all the projects that you wish to combine are in your shopping basket, save your shopping basket as a new project.
Brian
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"I must create a system or be enslaved by another mans; I will not reason and compare: my business is to create." William Blake
"Vactrols ringing, Dude." "Thank you Donny"
- rico loverde
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hey Roman while you are there, I notice from your picture of PCB that some of your resistors are Carbon 5% ones. Are there any resistors that I can be Lazy with? Or should they all HAVE to be 1%? I was stuffing resistors last night and measured my 10M ones and they are closer to 9.4M. Will this mess things up? I can order some 1% for everything if need be. Thanks
- roman_f
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10Ms can be 5%raisinbag wrote:hey Roman while you are there, I notice from your picture of PCB that some of your resistors are Carbon 5% ones. Are there any resistors that I can be Lazy with? Or should they all HAVE to be 1%? I was stuffing resistors last night and measured my 10M ones and they are closer to 9.4M. Will this mess things up? I can order some 1% for everything if need be. Thanks
i would not recommend using 5% in most of QRV part, in voltages shifts (you'll even need 0.1% somewhere)
- roman_f
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i use 1% mostly everywhere since they do cost the same on mouser as 5%roman_f wrote:10Ms can be 5%raisinbag wrote:hey Roman while you are there, I notice from your picture of PCB that some of your resistors are Carbon 5% ones. Are there any resistors that I can be Lazy with? Or should they all HAVE to be 1%? I was stuffing resistors last night and measured my 10M ones and they are closer to 9.4M. Will this mess things up? I can order some 1% for everything if need be. Thanks
i would not recommend using 5% in most of QRV part, in voltages shifts (you'll even need 0.1% somewhere)
+ i buy batches of them, so it's better to buy 200 1%s than 100 5%s + 100 1%s.
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wait- you didn't manually enter every number in did you? you can import the .xls BOMs as they are. create a project (mine is '266r') and then import a BOM, resolve the obsolete parts & send it to your project. it's a little tricky at first (particularly the unnecessary "export" step) but once you got it down, you'll be a happy wiggler.radiokoala wrote:Okay, so to make everyone's life easier I created shared shopping carts at mouser. Now you don't need to add 100+ parts manually by copy-pasting their #'s ...
- radiokoala
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I did, mate.xpander wrote:wait- you didn't manually enter every number in did you? you can import the .xls BOMs as they are. create a project (mine is '266r') and then import a BOM, resolve the obsolete parts & send it to your project. it's a little tricky at first (particularly the unnecessary "export" step) but once you got it down, you'll be a happy wiggler.radiokoala wrote:Okay, so to make everyone's life easier I created shared shopping carts at mouser. Now you don't need to add 100+ parts manually by copy-pasting their #'s ...
Eurorack BOMs are PDF, hence ain't supported

If for your format they were XLS, lucky you then!
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Witness 60 minutes of audio-visual industrial psy-techno
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jam-offering (and press like so this wipes away minecraft
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some proper rave action there, FINALLY):

/ My electro-rap debut!! (video)
/ Analog & modular videos

- roman_f
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one more thing to say
i have also experienced an issue with ribbon-cables - a few of them look good, but do not function well, a couple had wrong key position
so:
1) take a look at your ribbon cables.

2) 5U & Buchla ones should have "keys" looking outside and EURO's "keys" are looking inside on both sides on the cable
3) check that "arrows" are located at the same side as the red line on the cable
4) ring all the connections with a multi-meter so be sure that nothing is shorting inside of the cable. holes are too small to put the test-leads inside of them, so you may put the other part of the connector and have an access to pins.
i do not think that many people would have such a problem, but anyway - please check it.
i have also experienced an issue with ribbon-cables - a few of them look good, but do not function well, a couple had wrong key position
so:
1) take a look at your ribbon cables.

2) 5U & Buchla ones should have "keys" looking outside and EURO's "keys" are looking inside on both sides on the cable
3) check that "arrows" are located at the same side as the red line on the cable
4) ring all the connections with a multi-meter so be sure that nothing is shorting inside of the cable. holes are too small to put the test-leads inside of them, so you may put the other part of the connector and have an access to pins.
i do not think that many people would have such a problem, but anyway - please check it.
- roman_f
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you probably have the older version of BOMxpander wrote:roman- i don't know if this was answered earlier but is the 1st Buchla-format BOM correct? when you open both 266c-buchla-1-bom.pdf and 266c-buchla-1-bom.xls, they have "5U Format" on the top of the page. all of the others are labelled correctly.
please download the latest one
the archive also features the updated schematics
Great, thanks.roman_f wrote:1) leds are not swappedthebot wrote:Roman,
I know the panel is designed to look like the original unit but would an easier option not be to just change the panel so the outputs are swapped on the panel rather than any adjustment on wiring? Or are the LEDs the right way round?
Edit: I'm talking about the 5U version here by the way.
2) cutting 2 traces / wiring other 2 is super easy, this mod is done in 2 minutes
Scott.
- janvanvolt
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Unfortunately, after the other fix - still does not work as expected. i am getting a "huge" load on the neg tail ( test is a a-100 miniature board which usually works fine.
on the THRU pad i am getting:
(Pin1 being leftmost, squared), Voltmeter COM = Pin 1 or 2, Plus Pin either Pin 2 or 3)
Pin 1-2 - 0.69V
Pin 2-3 - (-) 1.82V
Pin 1-3 - (-) 1.12V
I made HD photos of the PCB, maybe you'd be able to find the culprit:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/jczmok/set ... 796094288/
Usually only 1 out of 40 projects fail here, so i am wondering what it might be.
If i can't fix it, how much would you take for one PCB with PSU parts and the fixed issues ? Other PCBs seem fine (so far).
on the THRU pad i am getting:
(Pin1 being leftmost, squared), Voltmeter COM = Pin 1 or 2, Plus Pin either Pin 2 or 3)
Pin 1-2 - 0.69V
Pin 2-3 - (-) 1.82V
Pin 1-3 - (-) 1.12V
I made HD photos of the PCB, maybe you'd be able to find the culprit:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/jczmok/set ... 796094288/
Usually only 1 out of 40 projects fail here, so i am wondering what it might be.
If i can't fix it, how much would you take for one PCB with PSU parts and the fixed issues ? Other PCBs seem fine (so far).
- roman_f
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i will return back home monday and will test/measure everything, will upload the fotos/videos as well. i didn't make this fix by myself - it was done by my friend engineer, but he has corrected 5 PCBs for me and all seem to be good.janvanvolt wrote:Unfortunately, after the other fix - still does not work as expected. i am getting a "huge" load on the neg tail ( test is a a-100 miniature board which usually works fine.
on the THRU pad i am getting:
(Pin1 being leftmost, squared), Voltmeter COM = Pin 1 or 2, Plus Pin either Pin 2 or 3)
Pin 1-2 - 0.69V
Pin 2-3 - (-) 1.82V
Pin 1-3 - (-) 1.12V
I made HD photos of the PCB, maybe you'd be able to find the culprit:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/jczmok/set ... 796094288/
Usually only 1 out of 40 projects fail here, so i am wondering what it might be.
If i can't fix it, how much would you take for one PCB with PSU parts and the fixed issues ? Other PCBs seem fine (so far).
i would prefer if people would wait till monday before they assemble that PCB.
what power source do you use?
- roman_f
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do you have +15 if you disconnect a wire from pin1?janvanvolt wrote:Unfortunately, after the other fix - still does not work as expected. i am getting a "huge" load on the neg tail ( test is a a-100 miniature board which usually works fine.
on the THRU pad i am getting:
(Pin1 being leftmost, squared), Voltmeter COM = Pin 1 or 2, Plus Pin either Pin 2 or 3)
Pin 1-2 - 0.69V
Pin 2-3 - (-) 1.82V
Pin 1-3 - (-) 1.12V
I made HD photos of the PCB, maybe you'd be able to find the culprit:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/jczmok/set ... 796094288/
Usually only 1 out of 40 projects fail here, so i am wondering what it might be.
If i can't fix it, how much would you take for one PCB with PSU parts and the fixed issues ? Other PCBs seem fine (so far).
it should be there, since those cuts/wires are related only to +12->-15 transformations
- janvanvolt
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Let be more specific: I am feeding it via a 9V AC/AC Adapter to an A-100 Busboard (the "small" one which can feed +4 modules). It is working fine for testing.
On the +12V rail on the busboard light is normally lit.
On the -12V rail on the busboard the light is very dim, e.g. either a high load or a near-short.
The measurements i took are from the THRU pad, e.g. i am not getting the voltages (15/-15V) out.
On the +12V rail on the busboard light is normally lit.
On the -12V rail on the busboard the light is very dim, e.g. either a high load or a near-short.
The measurements i took are from the THRU pad, e.g. i am not getting the voltages (15/-15V) out.