BUILD THREAD: 266-style PCBs

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roman_f
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Post by roman_f » Fri Jul 27, 2012 7:08 am

janvanvolt wrote:Roman,

i tried to build it as you proposed, but i am getting a short between the - and the GND rail.

thoughts ?

Also i noticed:
- L3 and L4 have different uH values in the schematics
- C41 is 470uf vs. 100uf as in the different BOM Versions
i've out the city, but i ask my friend to check the pcbs and report shortly. i've done 5 of them working correctly this way, let me double check. sorry for that powering issue.

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Post by roman_f » Fri Jul 27, 2012 8:51 am

my fault - 1 more trace should be cut
:doh:
updated docs, should work now

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Post by raisinbag » Fri Jul 27, 2012 9:06 am

HEY THANKS Radiokoalal! Is there a way to MERGE the carts together? I looked around but it isn't obvious. Thanks so much. I have many of the parts, but need a bunch of funky ones from each BOM.

Also if anyone is building with a Bleeps Euro panel, will the Davies 1900h knobs work?

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Post by roman_f » Fri Jul 27, 2012 9:09 am

thebot wrote:Roman,

I know the panel is designed to look like the original unit but would an easier option not be to just change the panel so the outputs are swapped on the panel rather than any adjustment on wiring? Or are the LEDs the right way round?

Edit: I'm talking about the 5U version here by the way.
1) leds are not swapped
2) cutting 2 traces / wiring other 2 is super easy, this mod is done in 2 minutes

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Post by decaying.sine » Fri Jul 27, 2012 9:12 am

raisinbag wrote:HEY THANKS Radiokoalal! Is there a way to MERGE the carts together? I looked around but it isn't obvious. Thanks so much. I have many of the parts, but need a bunch of funky ones from each BOM.

Also if anyone is building with a Bleeps Euro panel, will the Davies 1900h knobs work?
You can merge carts. I have done this and it has worked for me. BTW, I'll PM you tonight raisins :hug:

From Mouser...
Combining Multiple Projects

Log in. Select the "View basket tab to ensure you do not have parts in your shopping basket that you do not wish to be added to this order. (Clear your shopping basket, if necessary.) Click on the "Project Manager" link.

Click on the "Edit" link next to one of the projects that you wish to combine. In the bottom right hand corner under the merchandise total, click on the "Order Project" button. This will add the parts to your basket.

Then go into the next project and follow the same steps, which will add each project to your basket and add together any quantities for any duplicate products.

Once all the projects that you wish to combine are in your shopping basket, save your shopping basket as a new project.
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Post by rico loverde » Fri Jul 27, 2012 9:13 am

you are awesome radiokoala!!! thank you very much for that.
works for Darkplace Manufacturing

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Post by raisinbag » Fri Jul 27, 2012 9:17 am

hey Roman while you are there, I notice from your picture of PCB that some of your resistors are Carbon 5% ones. Are there any resistors that I can be Lazy with? Or should they all HAVE to be 1%? I was stuffing resistors last night and measured my 10M ones and they are closer to 9.4M. Will this mess things up? I can order some 1% for everything if need be. Thanks

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Post by raisinbag » Fri Jul 27, 2012 9:22 am

Oh missed your response above, thanks Brian, I'll go do that once I pour some concrete :party:

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Post by roman_f » Fri Jul 27, 2012 9:29 am

raisinbag wrote:hey Roman while you are there, I notice from your picture of PCB that some of your resistors are Carbon 5% ones. Are there any resistors that I can be Lazy with? Or should they all HAVE to be 1%? I was stuffing resistors last night and measured my 10M ones and they are closer to 9.4M. Will this mess things up? I can order some 1% for everything if need be. Thanks
10Ms can be 5%
i would not recommend using 5% in most of QRV part, in voltages shifts (you'll even need 0.1% somewhere)

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Post by roman_f » Fri Jul 27, 2012 9:32 am

roman_f wrote:
raisinbag wrote:hey Roman while you are there, I notice from your picture of PCB that some of your resistors are Carbon 5% ones. Are there any resistors that I can be Lazy with? Or should they all HAVE to be 1%? I was stuffing resistors last night and measured my 10M ones and they are closer to 9.4M. Will this mess things up? I can order some 1% for everything if need be. Thanks
10Ms can be 5%
i would not recommend using 5% in most of QRV part, in voltages shifts (you'll even need 0.1% somewhere)
i use 1% mostly everywhere since they do cost the same on mouser as 5%
+ i buy batches of them, so it's better to buy 200 1%s than 100 5%s + 100 1%s.

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Post by raisinbag » Fri Jul 27, 2012 9:41 am

OK cool, ya I mainly use 1% as well, just have some 5% for certain values for some reason. Oh thanks, I hadn't noticed the .1% ones. I need a few of those 2ks for something else as well, so goo excuse to grab a few more.

Thanks again.

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Post by xpander » Fri Jul 27, 2012 11:51 am

radiokoala wrote:Okay, so to make everyone's life easier I created shared shopping carts at mouser. Now you don't need to add 100+ parts manually by copy-pasting their #'s ...
wait- you didn't manually enter every number in did you? you can import the .xls BOMs as they are. create a project (mine is '266r') and then import a BOM, resolve the obsolete parts & send it to your project. it's a little tricky at first (particularly the unnecessary "export" step) but once you got it down, you'll be a happy wiggler.

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Post by radiokoala » Fri Jul 27, 2012 11:59 am

xpander wrote:
radiokoala wrote:Okay, so to make everyone's life easier I created shared shopping carts at mouser. Now you don't need to add 100+ parts manually by copy-pasting their #'s ...
wait- you didn't manually enter every number in did you? you can import the .xls BOMs as they are. create a project (mine is '266r') and then import a BOM, resolve the obsolete parts & send it to your project. it's a little tricky at first (particularly the unnecessary "export" step) but once you got it down, you'll be a happy wiggler.
I did, mate.
Eurorack BOMs are PDF, hence ain't supported :ripbanana:

If for your format they were XLS, lucky you then!

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Post by roman_f » Fri Jul 27, 2012 12:03 pm

one more thing to say

i have also experienced an issue with ribbon-cables - a few of them look good, but do not function well, a couple had wrong key position

so:
1) take a look at your ribbon cables.

Image

2) 5U & Buchla ones should have "keys" looking outside and EURO's "keys" are looking inside on both sides on the cable

3) check that "arrows" are located at the same side as the red line on the cable

4) ring all the connections with a multi-meter so be sure that nothing is shorting inside of the cable. holes are too small to put the test-leads inside of them, so you may put the other part of the connector and have an access to pins.

i do not think that many people would have such a problem, but anyway - please check it.

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Post by xpander » Fri Jul 27, 2012 12:14 pm

radiokoala wrote:upd. ...I like how our avatars go together. same colors! :party:
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Post by xpander » Fri Jul 27, 2012 12:21 pm

roman- i don't know if this was answered earlier but is the 1st Buchla-format BOM correct? when you open both 266c-buchla-1-bom.pdf and 266c-buchla-1-bom.xls, they have "5U Format" on the top of the page. all of the others are labelled correctly.

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Post by roman_f » Fri Jul 27, 2012 12:23 pm

xpander wrote:roman- i don't know if this was answered earlier but is the 1st Buchla-format BOM correct? when you open both 266c-buchla-1-bom.pdf and 266c-buchla-1-bom.xls, they have "5U Format" on the top of the page. all of the others are labelled correctly.
you probably have the older version of BOM
please download the latest one
the archive also features the updated schematics

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Post by thebot » Fri Jul 27, 2012 3:43 pm

roman_f wrote:
thebot wrote:Roman,

I know the panel is designed to look like the original unit but would an easier option not be to just change the panel so the outputs are swapped on the panel rather than any adjustment on wiring? Or are the LEDs the right way round?

Edit: I'm talking about the 5U version here by the way.
1) leds are not swapped
2) cutting 2 traces / wiring other 2 is super easy, this mod is done in 2 minutes
Great, thanks.

Scott.

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Post by Luka » Fri Jul 27, 2012 5:07 pm

i was tuning up my QRV and SRV last night and I found these great videos which explain the funcionality of the doepfer version. might help some people with the build.

qrv

[video][/video]

srv

[video][/video]

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Post by xpander » Fri Jul 27, 2012 6:02 pm

quick question before i sink money into small bear for pots- i should be ordering the linear ones, right?

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Post by roman_f » Sat Jul 28, 2012 3:46 am

xpander wrote:quick question before i sink money into small bear for pots- i should be ordering the linear ones, right?
sure - B10K
B means linear, A - log, C - reverse log

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Post by janvanvolt » Sat Jul 28, 2012 7:59 pm

Unfortunately, after the other fix - still does not work as expected. i am getting a "huge" load on the neg tail ( test is a a-100 miniature board which usually works fine.

on the THRU pad i am getting:
(Pin1 being leftmost, squared), Voltmeter COM = Pin 1 or 2, Plus Pin either Pin 2 or 3)

Pin 1-2 - 0.69V
Pin 2-3 - (-) 1.82V
Pin 1-3 - (-) 1.12V

I made HD photos of the PCB, maybe you'd be able to find the culprit:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/jczmok/set ... 796094288/

Usually only 1 out of 40 projects fail here, so i am wondering what it might be.

If i can't fix it, how much would you take for one PCB with PSU parts and the fixed issues ? Other PCBs seem fine (so far).

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Post by roman_f » Sat Jul 28, 2012 8:05 pm

janvanvolt wrote:Unfortunately, after the other fix - still does not work as expected. i am getting a "huge" load on the neg tail ( test is a a-100 miniature board which usually works fine.

on the THRU pad i am getting:
(Pin1 being leftmost, squared), Voltmeter COM = Pin 1 or 2, Plus Pin either Pin 2 or 3)

Pin 1-2 - 0.69V
Pin 2-3 - (-) 1.82V
Pin 1-3 - (-) 1.12V

I made HD photos of the PCB, maybe you'd be able to find the culprit:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/jczmok/set ... 796094288/

Usually only 1 out of 40 projects fail here, so i am wondering what it might be.

If i can't fix it, how much would you take for one PCB with PSU parts and the fixed issues ? Other PCBs seem fine (so far).
i will return back home monday and will test/measure everything, will upload the fotos/videos as well. i didn't make this fix by myself - it was done by my friend engineer, but he has corrected 5 PCBs for me and all seem to be good.

i would prefer if people would wait till monday before they assemble that PCB.

what power source do you use?

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Post by roman_f » Sat Jul 28, 2012 8:13 pm

janvanvolt wrote:Unfortunately, after the other fix - still does not work as expected. i am getting a "huge" load on the neg tail ( test is a a-100 miniature board which usually works fine.

on the THRU pad i am getting:
(Pin1 being leftmost, squared), Voltmeter COM = Pin 1 or 2, Plus Pin either Pin 2 or 3)

Pin 1-2 - 0.69V
Pin 2-3 - (-) 1.82V
Pin 1-3 - (-) 1.12V

I made HD photos of the PCB, maybe you'd be able to find the culprit:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/jczmok/set ... 796094288/

Usually only 1 out of 40 projects fail here, so i am wondering what it might be.

If i can't fix it, how much would you take for one PCB with PSU parts and the fixed issues ? Other PCBs seem fine (so far).
do you have +15 if you disconnect a wire from pin1?
it should be there, since those cuts/wires are related only to +12->-15 transformations

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Post by janvanvolt » Sun Jul 29, 2012 4:08 am

Let be more specific: I am feeding it via a 9V AC/AC Adapter to an A-100 Busboard (the "small" one which can feed +4 modules). It is working fine for testing.
On the +12V rail on the busboard light is normally lit.
On the -12V rail on the busboard the light is very dim, e.g. either a high load or a near-short.

The measurements i took are from the THRU pad, e.g. i am not getting the voltages (15/-15V) out.

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