Finally got mine as well. Thank you.

<M>

"Packed not shipped' sounds promising. Anxiously awaiting the next phase, ie "!!!!!GONE and on the way!!!!!". Thanks for finally getting to it.

<marv>

I'm still waiting as well, but unfortunately, my patience is wearing very thin. If my package doesn't arrive soon I'll take the issue up with Paypal. Enough is enough.

Still waiting in Florida........ sent PM as per last week's post above, no reply...
am I like the LAST one, or is anybody else out there still on hold???

I've got one as well... amazing machine. Lots of info online about it... several videos on EEVblog that cover its functionality, build quality, capabilities, etc... watch them all if you can, you won't be sorry.

<marv>

Still waiting for my THAT chips here in FL... should I start to worry now?

I never got an invoice either... I was down for 2 PCBs + chips... :hmm: :hmm: <marv> Marv, I see you only on the first interest check, did you email me as described in post 3? (There should be some extras, don't worry) Ahhh, the infamous "Post 3"!!! That was a long time ago, no idea what happened. ...

I never got an invoice either... I was down for 2 PCBs + chips...

<marv>

Assuming an OV condition would most likely be caused by a single PSU, logic would suggest that your red version with individual OV modules is the proper option. A single OVP module overseeing the total voltage would have no way of knowing whether PSU1 or PSU2 was the offending supply (without a grou...

None here in Florida yet as well... also emailed Nate but no reply. I'm actually encouraged knowing that others in US haven't received theirs either, probably suggests he simply hasn't got around to sending those out yet. The USPS can't lose everybody's stuff (although nothing would surprise me....I...

Many people put ferrites in the position of those two 10 ohm resistors to filter out high frequencies on the lines... however, there are numerous opinions regarding the need for and/or the efficacy of the ferrites in our modular systems so some folks suggest using a low value resistor to act as a so...

mirri wrote:I thought ray had a youtube channel with all sort of diy vids? Or did i dream it?

Nope.

The Ray Wilson Show

Enjoy!!!

<marv>

Try PMing "E.A.S." (leave out the quotes but put in the dots, his real name is Mike)...... he recently shipped some that went with one of his modules, I ran across mine last night. Perhaps he'll reveal his source to you.

<marv>

I clean all my PCBs with either alcohol or spray on flux remover. Both work similarly, the alcohol is way cheaper. And yep, it takes several scrubs & rinses in order to get everything off, otherwise you're left with that sticky residue. It's harder to clean the top surface with everything populated,...

180 .37 ohm resistors in series IS gonna be ugly ;-) I guess I'f dig around the component pile for something closer to 60ohm. What I really wanted to hear was... 330 will be fine :-D Take the other approach... an 820R and a 750R in parallel would give you 391R, close enough to 390 for gummint work....

I'd be in for 2 to 4 as well, depending on final price, if and when this happens. Very nice!!

<marv>

No problem at all. I usually greenline my schematics as I populate boards, but in this instance I decided to simply use the BOM since it was so nicely arranged, and with the values on the PCB it really helps move things along. (I much prefer that to component numbers, which are great for ID purposes...

I just noticed that the BOM includes two R7's.... fortunately I use the BOM to check off things as they are populated and had completed the 10K (which is what R7 is supposed to be, according to the schematic) prior to getting to the 100K, where the other one is shown. I'm surprised no one else has m...

Could someone please post pictures that show the stacking headers, both stacked and unstacked? Or just post a link if they're already shown in another thread. Thanx

Express delivery and Futurlec? Seems to me the two are mutually exclusive, as they don't typically wind up in the same sentence. I could be wrong, but.................

Good luck.

<marv>

I used a Mouser 553-VPP36-1560 in mine. Worked great. I just use it as my +/-15 bench supply for checking modules. See pics & more at this E-M.com thread, about 1/2 way down the page. I may even have a couple more of the PCBs I used to connect to it, JIC you decide to go that way instead of a toroid...

I built my transistor matcher from Ian Fritz's schematic, included trimmers to get the resistances matching and then added switches to handle the emitter swaps. After having used the unit for awhile (most recently matching for the expo converters on several Thomas Henry/Fonik VCO555 PCBs) I find tha...

If you haven't already, please, by all means, read Ray WIlson's (MFOS) Troubleshooting 101 . He lays out lots of hints and tips to help you get to the bottom of a problem. AAMOF, if you do what he recommends there prior to firing up your module for the first time it is entirely likely you'll get the...

I tossed the crimp pins from Tayda right in with the original TE ones and Molex ones I bought from Mouser... have been using both an inexpensive generic crimper as well as the $300 Molex one and they all crimp the same for me. PM me your address and I'll send you some samples you can try for yoursel...