||Vacuform - Vacuum tube diode SVF
I'm currently working on something fancy - it's 12dB state variable filter with two EAA91 vacuum tube diodes as a dynamic resistance element.
11 mar 2019: I have updated DIY version layout:
(This is how old prototype looks like [quick and dirty decal]):
I have tried to keep it in soft saturation all the time, running 6N3P triode @ 55V anode voltage. It can be clean sounding at very low input levels, but "clean" is not what you have tubes for On the other side high signal levels tame resonance so it doesn't escape into harsh sound territories easily.
Overload LED shows approximately when input signal starts to stifle resonance. Soft saturation begins way earlier.
Resonance is currently voltage controlled with vactrol - I considered using pentode VCA for fast responses, but that would be like additional 95mA for little more functionality.
Entire path is discrete at the moment, but I plan to implement VC-attenuverters in non-DIY version for inputs that will have op-amps.
The three audio inputs have attenuverters with silent zone - Making them voltage controlled would add much more possibilities (ring modulation / VCA, LPG/BPG/HPG etc).
Current draw is ~300mA @ 12V and ~20mA @ -12V now (Current draw for DIY version is to be measured soon). I'm thinking about making optional switch for omitting onboard inverter and supplying tubes with +5V directly from bus.
Sound demos - classic transistor oscillators running into it, with some patches having additional tube VCA:
It even tracks about two octaves Gonna do some more tests next weekend.
Would you put it in a rack?
Let me know what you think about it and what also you would see in it. I'm open to suggestions!
update may 29 2019
Basic version (PCB + tubes set) (95USD)
Eric The Red
Euro pcb + panel + tubes set (125USD)
numan7 (second kit)
paperCUT (possibly upgrade to full kit)
Full Euro kit (155USD)
nimmen (whick kit?)
luchog(Euro kit / builded)
numan7 (first kit)
Rex Coil 7 (first kit)
Assembled Eurorack module (270USD)
Leave me PM if you would like to have more custom option! br> br>
| br>Sounds awesome. br> br>
| br>Eric the Red
| br>Yes, I would put this in a rack! br> br>
| br>Looks and sounds fantastic, nice job! br> br>
| br>i have tons of used & new diode tubes....... wish i had the design chops to use them like this.
nice work. br> br>
| br>Excellent demo for a great idea. Any chance having this in 5U? br> br>
| br>This thing sounds amazing, great job. br> br>
| br>Sounds splendid, very yummy! br> br>
| br>My god, that low end! br> br>
| br>Yay, that's overwhelmingly positive response
|Schlumpfhut wrote: |
|Any chance having this in 5U? |
Having tubes in 5U is great idea and I think is totally doable in 2U/2MU width. I planned to do small series in Eurorack format, but making single modules for 5U also would be fun Let's see what interest is.
|Moog$FooL$ wrote: |
|i have tons of used & new diode tubes....... wish i had the design chops to use them like this. |
I have bought big bag of EAA91s two years ago without having idea what to do with them. They came in handy for sure If your diodes are indirectly heated then it will be possible to use them just like ordinary semiconductor diodes... in most cases. br> br>
| br>Eric the Red
| br>I think I would prefer 5U as opposed to Euro for this. I think if you just build it to be compatible with +/- 15 volts, most 5U Builders would be ok with flying wires for the build. Most of the stuff that we build seems to be this way.
-Eric br> br>
| br>If you offered a black panel option, I would buy it in a heart beat.
| br>Reality Checkpoint
|SlightlyNasty wrote: |
|My god, that low end! |
I would quite like this in an LW/SN format! br> br>
| br>i would love one! br> br>
| br>Brilliant - would love a PCB
Yes, useful to have the option to power the valve heaters from an independant source. br> br>
|Reality Checkpoint wrote: |
|I would quite like this in an LW/SN format! |
Where's Charlie when you need him? br> br>
| br>Talking about 5U / 4U (even 3U for the stubborn!) DIY version there are two options:
- PCB parallel to panel, tubes protruding from panel, skiff
- PCB perpendicular to panel, tubes inside, ~9cm deep
Both options would have tube sockets mounted on PCB, saving eventual impedance / hum problems + wiring. Both options are the same PCB
Unfortunalety I don't have option for making low volume bent panels at reasonable price (especially multiple types), so PCB + tubes / sockets / parts in eventual kit only.
The boards would have combo power connectors, +-15V or +-12V operation, external filament supply (connect to internal bus or external power jack), pots and jacks on wires, all THT parts. About 8x10cm of blue, two-sided PCB, cool and nice
It also would have:
-Low pass, band pass, high pass inputs (optional attenuators soldered offboard)
-Two cutoff frequency control inputs
-Resonance control input
-Cutoff, resonance and output level pots
-Onboard +50V charge pump
We'll see what comes out of it br> br>
| br>i think i would be into a basic diy version...... one where i could do my own pnl. br> br>
| br>Wow, that sounds REALLY nice! br> br>
| br>mome rath
| br>looks and sounds great! Really like your front panel design/knob selection br> br>
|BARD wrote: |
|(even 3U for the stubborn!) |
This sounds great! I'd totally be in for some 3U action! br> br>
| br>I would definitely like to have this in Euro. Either as a finished module, or a DIY kit.
One thing about tube mounting, it's far better to have tubes protruding from the panel like in the OP, because even run conservatively, those things can build up a lot of heat. Keeping them out simplifies cooling (which is why Metasonix and Trogotronics keep theirs protruding). Plus, it just looks cooler.
One change to the layout I'd make is to move the jack and pot that are currently above the tubes to beside or underneath them. Keeping it on top makes it more likely someone is going to touch the tubes and, like I noted, they get hot. br> br>
|luchog wrote: |
One change to the layout I'd make is to move the jack and pot that are currently above the tubes to beside or underneath them. Keeping it on top makes it more likely someone is going to touch the tubes and, like I noted, they get hot.
That's valuable notice, but those tubes actually don't get very hot @ 5V filament voltage... I have tried to keep them as far as possible to the rest of layout components. Patching and tweaking is comfortable by Eurorack standards Hovewer, I'll keep them on top in DIY version since that will make mouting / arrangement easier. I guess there will be builders who will run tubes at nominal filament voltages (only visual improvement at these cathode currents ).
How about Skinburntronic approach?