Northern Light Modular - Dual CV Polymorpher Model 2OC

Discussing some incredible modules that don't quite fit into the other forum categories.

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cygmu
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Post by cygmu » Mon Dec 11, 2017 2:26 pm

I think the BOM is incorrect in at least one aspect: it asks for a SPDT switch with (ON)-NONE-(ON) configuration, which doesn't make sense; the part number on the BOM is for an (ON)-NONE-ON, which makes sense but I think is wrong for this application; I think what is needed is (ON)-OFF-(ON) so that the switch is momentary in both directions but both throws are disconnected when the switch is at rest.

It would be good if synesthesia or ArguZ could confirm this please!

Mouser part 612-100-D1111 might fit the bill if I am right.

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APETECHNOLOGY
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Post by APETECHNOLOGY » Mon Dec 11, 2017 11:20 pm

[quote="cygmu"]I think the BOM is incorrect in at least one aspect: it asks for a SPDT switch with (ON)-NONE-(ON) configuration,

hello,
i built a diy version with the specified switch, the one in the mouser cart.
it works great!
edit,
i just remembered there are components missing in the mouser cart.
double check with the listed bom as well if you use it!
hope this helps.
Last edited by APETECHNOLOGY on Tue Dec 12, 2017 12:15 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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cygmu
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Post by cygmu » Tue Dec 12, 2017 4:26 am

AHHHH, thank you --- the switch in the cart is not the same as the one listed in the spreadsheet.

Based on what APETECHNOLOGY said, it looks like (ON)-OFF-(ON) is the correct configuration as I suspected. So the switch in the cart is correct but the one listed in the spreadsheet is incorrect.

And (ON)-NONE-(ON) as stated in the sheet remains an impossibility :)

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Synesthesia
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Post by Synesthesia » Tue Dec 12, 2017 5:26 am

cygmu well spotted !
APETECHNOLOGY - yes indeed!

Ok guys - I do not know how this PN made it to our sheet - but it revealed that we have 50 wrong switches in our stock. Ouch.

I'll contact Modular Addict.

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Clemdu
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Post by Clemdu » Sat Dec 16, 2017 11:50 pm

Hello!

Quick heads up about a mistake in the mouser cart, the 10u capacitors are in a 1206 package, where they should be 0805, so they're too big for the pcb footprint.
The part reference from the bom is good though.


Also, the encoders have a D-shaft, so the usual Rogan knobs would be off centered. I'm still unsure about what knobs I'm going to use...

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Peake
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Post by Peake » Sun Dec 17, 2017 12:19 am

I just built a 25s but couldn't find a metal shaft substitute for the center-detent D-shaft plastic pots, so I dabbed epoxy onto them and sanded them down to a round shaft before installing on the PCB. Rogans fit fine!
I just can't help imagining that this would be better with vactrols

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Clemdu
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Post by Clemdu » Sun Dec 17, 2017 1:00 am

Good tip! I might just do that...
I wonder how Marc and Sacha did it on the built version?

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Synesthesia
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Post by Synesthesia » Mon Dec 18, 2017 4:38 am

Hey Hey !

we use the D-Shaft on the built version - with the screw pointing to the flat side ;)

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cygmu
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Post by cygmu » Sat Dec 23, 2017 6:11 am

Possibly daft question: is the source code for the 2OC fully integrated into the main O&C source? Just compile with the BUCHLA_4U and BUCHLA_SUPPORT options defined?

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ArguZ
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Post by ArguZ » Sat Dec 23, 2017 7:29 am

cygmu wrote:Possibly daft question: is the source code for the 2OC fully integrated into the main O&C source? Just compile with the BUCHLA_4U and BUCHLA_SUPPORT options defined?
Yes it is...now :)
Last edited by ArguZ on Tue Mar 13, 2018 12:29 pm, edited 1 time in total.

monokinetic
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Post by monokinetic » Sun Mar 11, 2018 4:58 pm

Clemdu wrote:Quick heads up about a mistake in the mouser cart, the 10u capacitors are in a 1206 package, where they should be 0805, so they're too big for the pcb footprint.
@Arguz / Synesthesia / modularaddict et al: just FYI I just got caught out by this as well, would be good to update the saved Mouser cart to match what is written in the current BOM .xls file to save others in the future. Substitute 80-C1206X106J3RAUTO with 81-GRM21BR6YA106KE3L (unfortunately out of stock for now).

Otherwise the PCB has been a pleasure to build this far :)

(edited for clarity)

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ArguZ
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Post by ArguZ » Mon Mar 12, 2018 6:20 am

Thanks for the heads up....I updated the cart.
Feel free to substitute with any 10U you can find..

Also, there is a new firmware on our site.

http://northernlightmodular.com/#

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pickleinn
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Post by pickleinn » Tue Mar 13, 2018 9:12 pm

I just finished mine and fired it up......looks good so far, now to calibrate.

What does the new firmware do?

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ArguZ
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Post by ArguZ » Wed Mar 14, 2018 4:35 am

The main thing is that all flavours are now in the source fork.
So one can brew Euro, 4U, cardOC and such from one file including options for flipped screen, inverted screen etc.

And then there is a lot of under the hood work so let me quote the designers :

includes misc bug fixes (courtesy of @patrickdowling)

envelopes CV/mapping [Piqued]
brownian motion/CV [Sequins]
trigger input mapping when using the module upside down [options: FLIP_180]
menu adjustments [Harrington 1200] (thanks @jamieferguson)

Just make sure to always use the latest versions.
We can not support the old ones as we delete them from our testing modules to be able to run the new ones

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pickleinn
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Post by pickleinn » Wed Mar 14, 2018 1:39 pm

ArguZ wrote:The main thing is that all flavours are now in the source fork.
So one can brew Euro, 4U, cardOC and such from one file including options for flipped screen, inverted screen etc.

And then there is a lot of under the hood work so let me quote the designers :

includes misc bug fixes (courtesy of @patrickdowling)

envelopes CV/mapping [Piqued]
brownian motion/CV [Sequins]
trigger input mapping when using the module upside down [options: FLIP_180]
menu adjustments [Harrington 1200] (thanks @jamieferguson)

Just make sure to always use the latest versions.
We can not support the old ones as we delete them from our testing modules to be able to run the new ones
Thanks!

monokinetic
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Post by monokinetic » Mon Apr 09, 2018 3:56 am

Hi folks,
I finished my 4U O_C kit last week and spent the weekend playing around with it.
Super happy with the kit, build was the smallest SMD I've done so far but it worked perfectly on first power up and I'm having a blast with things like the LFOs. Many thanks for supporting open source and DIYers :)

I have a question though:

I run a Buchla (mainly) clone system and to make things easier to interface with other equipment I have things running at 1V / octave. I'd like to ask if it is feasible to tweak the o_c source to run things at 1V octave using this board? I've been through the code and it seems like the BUCHLA_4U compile option changes things in quite a lot of places. From my basic understanding it mainly seems to adjust for the fact that this version of o_c runs at 0 to 10 volts rather than the Eurorack -3V to 6V, but I couldn't fathom anywhere obvious to change things back to 1V / octave rather than 1.2V / octave - I guess it's just a multiplication somewhere. I'm fine to compile my own if someone can point me to the place(s) that I should change!

Also a tiny bit of feedback on the kit:
so far my OLED screens regularly go wonky i.e. they are not correctly centered in the panel cutout and things like the horizontal lines in the screen savers are noticeably off at an angle. I have tried hot gluing some screws to the screens to give them feet, and that's improved things a bit. But still each time I take the module out the case things go wonky again. Any tips how to improve this? Personally I think this would work better if the PCB actually had mounting holes for the screens in. Relying just on the pin connector seems a bit wobbly to me. Just a thought for future modules with OLEDs, which I'm sure I'll end up buying regardless ;)

Cheers!

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ArguZ
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Post by ArguZ » Mon Apr 09, 2018 1:36 pm

All right, glad you like general idea ;)

The OLED has two holes on the lower side. That is where you mount your plastic 9mm standoffs in case your pin headers are of inferior quality and do not hold the display.
I hope you cut the pins protruding the PCB on the upper side so they do not bend down the display or even touch the alu front plate ?
The OLEDs from Adafruit are pristine, the Ali ones are hit or miss.
If the display is offset you can remove the glass and readjust the crystal.
We buy ours at Hobby Components in the UK (the white one, do not buy the blue one) and they are fine as well and quite affordable .

In regards of the 1V/1,2V thing :

Max and I spend weeks getting all the firmware changed to 1,2V.
This starts with collecting calibration values, then changing every of the 10 apps to do the math based on 1,2V , deal with the fact it is unipolar only and then adjust the output hardware to be precise to the 4 digit behind the 0,
So in short , no, we do not support 1V as it is not the Buchla standard.
The best thing is to use Eurorack and a CVGT1 if you need 1V.
It's not that we do not want but there is hardware in place that is just different.
For example you can use the voltage app to autotune your oscillator.
That would not work with a change like that
Careful, the video is loud..


monokinetic
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Post by monokinetic » Tue Apr 10, 2018 2:40 pm

Hi Arguz,
thanks for the info, I know supporting the open source projects takes time so it's most appreciated.

Understood re: the 1.2V/octave question, lucky for me I can switch my 258r to be compatible, had forgotten it can do that!

re: the screens, good to know. I may well change my Ali express ones out for the ones you recommend.

Funny you should mention the Voltages app. I had tried that over the weekend also, using a banana to tinijack adapter, but it doesn't seem to work for me. I assume that because all my oscillators output the Buchla audio standard (2V peak to peak from memory) that's not enough to drive the TR ins? I guess yes because your video shows using the Zoe and a banana out. Just wondering if there's any way to get that to work?

[EDIT] actually I tried boosting the level of my square wave out from the oscillators and that got things working. Sorted!

So all good, time to stop obsessing and go make some quantized music :)

Cheers, and looking forward to building more stuff from you guys!

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ArguZ
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Post by ArguZ » Tue Apr 10, 2018 5:07 pm

Yes ! it only works with a signal higher than 2,5...
Cool you had a booster...
I got it to work with a pre-amp and a dirty tiny to banana cable but yes , the mod out is the preferred one.

Have fun :)

Keep your iron warm...there is a lot more coming after SU18

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Reese P. Dubin
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Post by Reese P. Dubin » Fri Apr 13, 2018 11:18 am

I found that this module does not fit exactly into SAModular boats. Anyone else experience this? The OLEDs occupy the same space as the tinnermans and force the screens off at a slight angle.

This was a setup I built for a friend so we left it in place but it feels like the tinnermans will have to be ground down to accommodate the OC.

Still awesome tho!

sonicaddiction
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Post by sonicaddiction » Fri Apr 13, 2018 1:00 pm

Hi!
I just installed my new 2OC and the right side OC seems slightly defective. At first it worked fine apart from the voltage going high as soon as the red knob was pressed. It was a minor inconvenience at first but the next day all outputs output high voltage. The UI seems to work as before and I can change apps, navigate the menus and change values but the only way to get the correct signal (lfo's, envelopes and such) is to pull the knob slightly upwards.

The left OC works perfectly and is a great addition to my easel clone.

Is there an easy fix or does it need to be returned for service?

Thanks in advance!

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Synesthesia
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Post by Synesthesia » Fri Apr 13, 2018 2:42 pm

Reese P. Dubin wrote:I found that this module does not fit exactly into SAModular boats. Anyone else experience this?
So, I haven't experienced this personally( even though I have a Samodular boat), but i know some people had to sand their tinnerman nuts.

no issue on Buchla or Samodular bot without tinnemans.

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Post by Synesthesia » Fri Apr 13, 2018 2:45 pm

sonicaddiction Hey Boss! sounds like a defective unit to me .

you said you just bought it though ... and new? we haven't build any units in a long time - was it built by us ?

Anyway, PM me - if it is one of ours we will support you fully :)

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pickleinn
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Post by pickleinn » Fri Apr 13, 2018 8:24 pm

Synesthesia wrote:
Reese P. Dubin wrote:I found that this module does not fit exactly into SAModular boats. Anyone else experience this?
So, I haven't experienced this personally( even though I have a Samodular boat), but i know some people had to sand their tinnerman nuts.

no issue on Buchla or Samodular bot without tinnemans.
Same for me. Seems to fit fine in the SA boat. However he oleds are at a slightbunintentional angle.

I am still struggling with the right side not calibrating well but the left side is amazing. Live this thing.

sonicaddiction
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Post by sonicaddiction » Sat Apr 14, 2018 12:08 am

Synesthesia wrote:sonicaddiction Hey Boss! sounds like a defective unit to me .

you said you just bought it though ... and new? we haven't build any units in a long time - was it built by us ?

Anyway, PM me - if it is one of ours we will support you fully :)
Hi! Sorry for posting here. I didn’t find any email on the homepage. I’ll pm you later today when I have some free time. Thank you!

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